Old Mosher

I've tried the bsi, ecu and remote resynchronisation again today and I'm fairly sure the remote just isn't transmitting anymore. The Citroen dealer in Kettering has questionable feedback on Google, so could you tell me if this is true? "To replace the transmitter they have to have a complete new key cut as the immobiliser transponder on the remote pcb not in the key and this would be £75.57 and programing it would be another £65"

Hi. My three button key remote packed in on my 2001 2.2 hdi excusive ages ago. I've tried every tip I could find on this forum to get it working, but without success. I figure a simple three button remote from ebay will be a fraction of the cost of a new fob from Citroen but I would like to get the same functions as the original remote, i.e. the mirrors retracting and windows closing. So is there a receiver box or somewhere in the car where I can get into the wiring loom, so the car acts as if its getting the original signal. The Central locking still works on the key so I could just splice into the door lock switches but then I wouldn't get the mirror retract. it's handy in the tight car park at work and finding a window down or the sun roof open is a pain.

Hi all. Had my 01 2.2HDi exclusive had its DPF removed years ago but just lately I've had the odd anti pollution warning pop up. The only thing I can't clear is the Eolys level low signal. Is there a work around for this i.e. fill it with Diesel, Cataclean, Redex, Beer or just frig the signal with a resister, if so how? I've already reset the counter last week (interesting as the local dealer said "the counter on your model can't be reset so we will have to charge £££ for a new one" which is why I went with the deFAP in the first place) and haven't heard a peep out of it since, but I would like to kill the low signal. Other than that she's a joy to drive. Thanks Coastline ;)

Defiantly something going off. Last night the suspension wouldn't authorise anything but medium, when I connected planet it said the rear transducer was open or short circuit. Cleaned it up and all was ok. Today it still works as normal height wise but felt stiff. Connected PP but it wont have any dialog with the suspension system, Or the sun roof for that matter.

Hi Paul, thanks for the reply. Everyone in my house has a Pug or Citroen so I've given in and bought Lexir/Planet. Now al I have to do is figure out how to work the thing. The pump decided to work again for now but I bet it won't be for long. Can I identify the pump using Lexia?

Hi. Are these a DIY job or should I find a garage that will do them for me?

Hi. My 01 auto 2.2Hdi exclusive's pump has packed up. About two years ago the main power connecter came loose, I found the fault and fixed it but one of the two pins was a little melted so I'm not surprised its gone. Now I live Thrapston, a Lexia black hole, so I'm out on a limb. If I get my hands on a S/H pump is there any hope of success without Lexia. Could I graft a good pump motor onto my unit so as to keep the same controller. Do I need to get a specific pump as my car is and has a sport mode.

Ok, for continuity all answer my own question or it will be know help to anyone. Took the car to the dealers in town. One Citroen Tech stood arguing with the other as to what if any effect it would have on the handling, suspension, auto box, engine performance, esp/anr, the way my fury dice would swing and the quantum mechanics of how the universe moves around a C5. The upshot of all this is the car now kicks down when I accelerate away from the roundabout and not half way around it and turning left at junctions the acceleration now feels the same as turning right.

Lol can't see me nipping round to give him a hand then.

Are you anywhere near Northants?

Wire csa's are not at all generas, so I would't try putting another 10 amps through it. If It were me, at this point I would be looking at the wiring to the pump for damage then have a good look at the pump for anything obvious. Then the next step, get another pup. I can't see the ohms reading giving you much of a clue till the pump controle tells it to run. My guess would be over current in the actual pump motor. I would test the logoc of that by setting the suspension to its lowest and the foot brake on, so the pump doesn't get a run command, put in a new fuse with a DC Amps clamp meter on the pump supply cable and see if It spikes. If you've plenty of fuses you could then put the suspension to normal and see if It spikes.

What ever you find, get back to us. A forum full of answers as always better than one just full of questions.

Your bank balance..... Only missing lol. Can't remember off the top of my head where that cable goes to but I think its the supply to that box. have you got a meter? Check the voltage at the nut, no voltage? fallow the cable till you do. Could be a fuseable link in the cable, I don't know but Im sure someone will or Ill have a look an mine later and get back to you.

Hi. I had this on mine. Turns out the plug wasn't locked fully in and had disconnected its self. Its hard to get at under the headlight, but a good place to start. The fuse may be on the under side of the engine bay fuse box. Also check the break lights are not stuck on. The pump will not run if the break peddle is pressed.

Did you get anywhere with this. If not, dose it crank but not fire? Where are you?

Hi Dizzy Can we just make sure the terminology is the same on both sides of the equator. When you say Catalyser are we talking about the particulate filter that can sometimes get clogged and cause problems on some diesel C5s Or are we talking about the catalytic converter the is just in front of the filter. What model C5 have you got.? As Coastline says if you need a cat Im sure you could get a good used one of ebay and have it shopped out.

Hi. While looking for an un related fault the other day I noticed the steering wheel was around the 4 clock position when the senser position reads 0. Is this correct? Only my car has always seemed to get a bit enthusiastic or roundabouts. ???

Conclushion. It should have seen generating 260bar to get it started but couldn't manage to get past around 210, in my case it turned out not to be a case of where is it going but why was it not there in the first place.lol The technician fitted a new pressure regulator and all is now as it should be. Thank you John, Costline and Paul for all your help. Till next time. :-)

Pump pressure regulator (DRV valve) £275 fitted inc Vat. Should be fitted by tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes'

Dropped it in to a Bosh injection specialist this morning. Bracing my self to the bad news.

Hi Paul. Ive not found an f 1138 so far.But I gave it a warm up last night, no joy. On my filter there is no connector on the body but it has one on the lid. I have three lids to hand, one was ok apart from a small crack in a hose connector that had been repaired. I only switched from that lid because I was driving all the way to Spain. Even that one makes no improvement. I also did a leak down test on it. No 3 was the leakyest with 2&4 a close second. Over all I would say within 10%

"car runs fine when started with no engine miss and plenty of power" Yes, Its no hot rod, but its the same as its always been. "car has trouble starting, once its started does it start ok for the rest of the day or is it every time you start it" The first time I start it its a total git and needs a small wiff of easystart. after that its just a reguler git and will go if you give it a good long crank or two. "is it a bosch fuel system" Yes it is...Is that a good thing?

Borrowed a snapon solus pro kit of a good frind of mine. this is what its reading. Fuel press at cranking=87---109bar at 800rpm=251bar and press regulator open cycle ratio 16% ( got it to run with a small spray of easystart, Hate the stuf but needs be and all that ) injector 1 flow correction = - 1.52 mm3/stroke injector 2 flow correction = - 0.51 mm3/stroke injector 3 flow correction = - 2.78 mm3/stroke injector 4 flow correction = + 5.06 mm3/stroke !!!! Could that be a clue ? Also I poped down the scrap yard and got a fuel press transduce, a filter housing lid (fuel pressure relief valve) and an EGR valve acctuator. Ive fitted them all to no effect.

found it, un pluged it, pluged it back in and the fault code cleared. Not the problem though. thats still not starting. Just to p on my chips, the cars gon into power saving mode and now I cant close the drivers window. Ok all I have to do is start the engine and. . . . .twats his head on the garage wall in frustration and sings "There's a hole in my bucket, dear Liza, dear Liza There's a hole in my bucket, dear Liza, a hole" Its been a long day!

No joy with that one. I can crank it all I like now, it's not starting. I put the Autel on it and it now has the code P1135 f8 3rd Piston deactivator-shrtcircuit to positive or short circuit to earth or open circuit. What is the "3rd Piston deactivator" ? where is it ? and what do I hit it with to make it work ?