Old Mosher

Ran ok last night but this morning it was an epic fail. No time to play with it at 5am, just jumped in the Estima and of to work. but ill give it a swift kicking tonight.

Hi. Yep know what you mean but yes its spinning the same as always.

Yep thats the one, but it won't talk in live data with my C5, dont know why. So the bacon sarny and cupper sound like a cunning plan. With the price dealers charge for diagnostics the fuel cost from Nothants to Newcastle would be less anyway. I can't even test it till later today as I managed to snap a plastic reducer on the bypass hose doh. New one in today so ill get back to you.

Update...at the bosch 9635704380 EGR control valve Im geting 15 ohms. The EGR valve holds vacuum ok and slams open and closed ok. Having said that it is blanked off at the manifold and has been for months.

Hi. My trusty steed is sudenly getting lazy in the morning and takes a good amount of cranking to start. I am a little nervous that this will get out of control in a few weeks/days when our glorious british summer abruptly ends and the frost starts. So far I've looked for/at Air leaks into the fuel lines. The lift pump is working ok. The fuel filter was new 4kmiles ago. The glow plugs....where are the glow plugs?? I can't find them! My Autel FR704 has found P0402 F32. EGR control-EGR solenoid circuit in short-circuit to +, or - ( I havent a diagram of this so could be fun) P1421 F2. Upstream cat. converter temperter signal (cat1)fault-short circuit to earth or open circuit or short circuit to + or starting coherance. (always had this, never a problem) It went all the way to southern Spain and back for our holiday and didn't miss a beat. To days back in old blithgy and this pops up. What do you guys think it is???

Had a look at the light censure, couldn't find anything fogging its view of the glass so I cleaned it anyway re assembled it. No joy. So as a stop gap solution I made a light filter for it by slipping two layers of antistatic bag (the silver translucent stuff that electronic or computer parts are shipped in) under the sensers uv filter. So far so good, its switches on and of well.

Absolutely right. With the duel mass or 3 part fly wheel its completely smooth. Auto factors don't seem to know that fitting the solid 2 part pully to a car without an alternater clutch will cause the belt to flap. There computers just seem to show both types fit. Would be interesting to see if an alternater with clutch would make the duel mass pully last longer?

Additional. Not so much as a squeak from anywhere. In conclusion it must have been the two part pully making the aux belt slap so hard the whole front end of the car shook. I was just blinded by the fact that everything was new and couldn't be faulty.....just never expected some Pratt had sold me the wrong part! Thanks for all your help guys.

Hi. On my 2001 Hdi 2.2 exclusive the light level needed to turn the head lights on automatically is a little on the low side, ie its a bit too dark for the lights to be off. Can this be adjusted in some way?

Update I've changed the crank pulley back to the three part type and almost all the chattering has gone, so much for the auto factors computerised parts catalogue. If I get anymore vibration I'll swap the alternator for the clutch pulley type. would a clutch pulley kit fit on a fixed pulley alternator? I'll run it for a few days and let you know how I get on.

Back on the case again, the weather and time got the best of me for a bit. My mobile mechanic friend has my C5 at the moment and reckons the din stops if you add a little extra force to the aux belt tensioner with a bar or similar. I replaced the pully and fitted a kit not long back. The only questionable part was the two part crank pully the auto factors sold me. The one that came off was a knackerd three part unit with the three luggs sticking out of the front. just for the record the alternater pully is the fixed type. what do you guys think? :blink:

Ive got the engine covers, tank cover and under tray off at the mini so we can discount those bits. But that is exactly the kind of sound and location were talking about. But I can get my hands on all theses parts and not a thing changes. Its like something inside the wing that I can't see or put hand to. Incredibly frustrating! Weather permitting I'll remove the wheel arch liner tonight and see if that opens up new possibilitys.

Done that, no joy.

Good call costline the heat shield on the rack was vibrating like mad, so I put a stop to that and the metallic part of the chattering has gone. But there's still a noise coming from the off side inner wing. It sounds like the timing belt cover or wheel arch liner vibrating but I just can't find anything moving. Is there a box section on the inner wing I can't get to?

There's a heat shield on the steering rack :o Not spotted that' how do I get to it? Its not long had a new pully and belts. I also fitted a new top mount and steady but I haven't changed the bottom steady bushes as they looked ok at the time. Could that be a factor? also can the drive shafts chatter???

Wouldn't disagree as I know coastline knows a heck of a lot about c5's and the rev drop idea is sound and on the odd occasion it will do it crawling in traffic. What I can't find is the thing thats emitting all the noise. I've looked at the exhaust bracket, heat shields, timing cover and engine cover, the under tray has all new fixings and is secure. What am I missing?

It drops only a little on the taco,

Hi all. My 01 reg Hdi auto makes a chattering noise when at idle and in reverse or drive including sequential. Its always been there while I've owned it and I just put it down to the age of the auto box. But now Im not so sure what's making the noise and our planned drive to and from Spain is looming ever closer. The noise vanishes as soon as you pull away or select N or P Any ideas?

I've just done the rear brakes on my 01 2.2nd. No way could I re use the old callipers. The fuzz up was so bad that the callipers had tipped back away from the disk so far that the disk didn't touch the front of the pads. This left a ridge of pad that came together and stopped them working. This in turn starts to force the pads out of the callipers and had broken the hoop of calliper the pad retaining bolt goes through. I couldn't see it being long befor an epic fail took place. I got new rear callipers for £80 a pair and a full set of disks and pads for £112 of flee bay. My breaks are will good now. Thank you all for contributing info to this thread. I wouldn't have even looked at the back breaks if I hadn't read this thread first as I thought they were ok. So you may have saved me an mot fail or worse.

Thank for all the info Paul, very helpful. I found the fault in the boot liner. A relay had a bad connection. Pushed it all together and now its working ok. As for the front fogs I couldn't see any extra wire on the main been so I guess thats a nonstarter. Would the mk2 units fit in the grill on the mk1?

Opps, :rolleyes: Its a 2001 2.2Hdi hatch back. I found and tested the lamps, fuse, switch turns the dash light on and off when the engines running and lights are on But there's no power at the lamp holder. Could it be in the towbar wireing I'll have to pray for no fog. It dosn't have front fog lamps though I often see C5 front fogs for sale on Ebay. Can they be retro fitted, do I just need to add the fuse relay and lamps or is it more complex than that? :blink:

Hi. I noticed the other day that both my fog lights are not working. The dash lamp lights up, I can hear the relay go in but no lights. I've checked the fuse and the bulbs with no fault found. Any Ideas anyone?

Thanks again Woody, all back together and running oh so smooth. I made a tool to look the crank via the 6mm hole. Just a 6mm by 30cm round bar bent at around 8cm to 90 degree then just use a long stretchy spring to wrap around the turbo pipe and back to hold it in place. The cam looking pin was a long shanked cap head bolt with the thred cut off. I used your method for getting the belt tension backed up by another I found on here where you can just about get the idled roller to slip round under the stationary belt. Just for peace of mind I got a mechanic friend to check it and he said it was spot on. B)

Thanks mate, Oh boy is that hole hard to spot. Only in one place under the chassis could I see the 6mm hole. It's a bit late in the day for me to test it out now but I'll have a go tomorrow and let you know how I get on. B) One Brucey Bonus that came of all this work is that I might have found where the vibration on acceleration is from. Not only was the crank pulley floating about like it didn't belong to the car but the R/H vertical rubber engine mount and the attached torsion arm had both gone as well. :rolleyes:

Hi everyone. I'm planning to drive our trusty 2001 2.2Hdi automatic to Spain and back this summer So I'm leaving nothing to chance and servicing any thing I can think of that could let it down. 1: I'm half way through a full belt kit and water pump change, but for the life of me I can't find the hole to put a locking pin into the fly wheal. There's a gap above and below the starter motor but no hole. I also looked round the back above the diff but can't see one there. 2: Also what is the correct procedure for the cam pulley, do I lock it and slacken the bolts on the pulley tension the belt and then do up the pulley bolts again? 3: Is there a good rule of thumb for belt tension without buying the tools for the job. I have access to a workshop, lathe, mill and so on, so I could make tools to do the job if someone could give me the dimensions. I did have a look around in the forum, but couldn't find a definitive answer to the 2.2 Hdi Auto.