qman3428

Odds on the fuel filter, but it could also be an air leak. The standard test is to put a bit of clear plastic tube in the fuel line (low pressure side) and look for bubbles. You could also try priming the pump next time it happens, that increases the low pressure side and tends to overcome the air bubbles.

Try changing the oil filter, also that model requires frequent fuel filter changes.

If it says the oil is low then assume it is and add some. A new enigine is best avoided! If the Citroen Main dealer added Elloys they the should have rest the counter, tke it back to them.

Have to say my 2009 2.0 exclusive sounds the same. 120k on the clock and goes like a train. I dont think you have anything to worry about.

On my latest version you put the key to the accessories position and then the menu button give access to the running lights (dont start the engine)

My 2009 had a gearbox issue which sounds similar, I took it to the main dealer and they new what it was straight away and changed the engine bay fusebox. Now done another 100k miles and no repeat of the fault, so it just goes to show the fault may not be with the gearbox itself. My understanding of auto boxes is vague but I dont believe they have a clutch, just a series of brake bands which hold and release each gear which are selected by the oil pressure from the gearbox oil pump (large centrifugal device where a clutch would normally be). If it has an electrical fault changing the gearbox wont fix it, you really need someone who understands Citroen gearbox issues.

Interseting twist on the tyre noise issue. My new shape exclusive saloon did not have the noise, until I changed the brake pads then the noise appeared. There is a lip of metal on the outer edge of the disk caused by brake wear, I ground it off the offending wheel and the noise was massively reduced. Next week I intend to to the other three wheels (weather permitting)and will report if it makes the noise go away completely. I will also be changing tyres that week as my goodyears on the rear have had it. Might try continetals next they claim to be 2db quieter. It could of course be that I used non OEM brake pads and the pad material could be the suspect but I believe the pad vibrates in the groove causing the noise, by removing the groove the pad has nothing to vibrate against.

Auto locking is also time based, I believe in case you forgot to lock it. I often have to unlock my car more than once as it locks itself and to open the boot I open the drivers door which releases the boot lock.

I once had an apprentice who told me he didn't know which way was clockwise because he had a digital watch. I told him my job was to educate him and he now considers himself educated. Wonderful what can be achieve with a clip round the ear!

If the Citroen garage is saying there is no fault then they should have no problem in issueing an MOT. After all they are saying nothing is wrong.

Sounds like in order to do the work they disconnected the battery and didn't follow the correct reconnection protocol Disconnect the battery and follow the connection procedure on this site to see if it resets everything.

I have the 138bhp (x7) C5 which has been remapped for performance taking it to 170bhp. Citroen now do the sane engine but tuned to 160BHP so I was not over ambitious. It has made no difference to the economy, probably because I use it more enthusiastically. The difference is truely noticable and well worth doing. As for the MOT test center ever being able to check the maps I very much doubt it as the would need to be able to access every variation for every manufacturer and the costs would be prohibitive. They would also need to know what they are looking for in that they have an original map for comparison. If they did they could simply swap it back to original, for a fee of course. I have previously used the plug in device on both a C3 and on a Toyota Avensis and can say they work very well, however every time you get an engine management light the plug in device gets the blame, even if it is not responsible.

The only thing I could think that is in play when slipping the clutch but not during general running is the clutch release bearing

Before you disconnect the battery lower the drivers window, do not open the door on the reconnect list instead put the key in the lock through the open window, turn on the sidelights to balance the electrical output then turn the key to the first position and hold down the lock button for 15 seconds. This sets the locks to the key

If the clutch is slipping then that is a fault!

My daughter had this on Seat, a water bottle had gone under the seat and in reaching for it she distrubed the wiring. Fixing the wire wasnt enough it required a reset at a garage.

If you have low voltage from the battery that is known to throw up spurrious results.

If it is the drop link it will get worse and will be apparent on light bumps in a straight line, only then does it need changing £18 for a pair on ebay.

I had the gear change issue, it was a lazy relay and had to be changed.

This weekend I decided to conect my lexia and clear any faults listed. I found faults on the BSI, injectors, suspension and gear box and cleared them all without problem. I then tried to clear a fault on the radio. The Lexia cleared it but then the radio wouldn't turn off so I disconnected the battery and went through the reconnection dance. The central locking wouldnt work but on the bright side the radio was fine. Disconnected the battery and went through the process again, now the central locking worked but the hazard warning lights were on and wouldnt go off. Tried for a third time and sucess. It made me think, was clearing the fault on a radio which had no problems worth it? I wanted a clean system so I can track an intermittent depolution error and thought if I get rid of all the faults any new ones would be the culprit. So far no repeat of the intermittent fault, perhaps it was the radio!

There is a temperature sensor in the air intake which adjusts the fuel for cold starting, worth taking it out and cleaning it. Personally I would put a new battery on it.

Hi Franco I have the mk3 but they are similar, timing belt on mine (2.0 HDI) is 100k and yes do the pulleys and water pump at the same time. Personally I have the Chinese Lexia and it works fine for me but needs to be installed in XP (wont install in anything else). I used a packaged called VMware, which is free, to create a virtual partion, I then installed XP and the lexia software in to that partition. once done I have found I can run it from Vista in compatibility mode no problems. Rear end sounds like defective spheres but if you do decide to adjust the height sensor please take the advice on this forum and put the car on axle stands on the body or it will drop down suddenly and could cause you serious injury. Not a system to be played with.

The handbrake on the mk3 is on the back wheels (electronic) you need a special tool to wind the piston back in and to release the handbrake you lift up the centre console and remove the rubber insert, there is a brightly coloured ribbon inside. The manual says pull it till it clicks but mine doesnt click so I put my foot on the brake pull up the ribbon and insert a hammer shaft across the top of the centre console to keep it in that position. The rear calipers are then free to remove, Unclip the hadbrake cable, undo the two retaining torque bolts and it will come off (I levered it with a screwdriver). Remove the brake shoes and screw the piston back in to the caliper. Refitting is the reverse.

The issue is those stupid little pins, noticed mine were bending and bought a replacement set from ebay which have slots not pins. Wheels still locked, still need a key but easy to get off if you have it

The turbo is a variable turbo so the boost comes in progressively rather than with a big lump at 2000 rpm. In practice theis means that the engine is difficult to tell from a 2.0 normally aspirated engine as the delivery is smooth throughout the rev range. If you are expecting the old style kick in the backside then it wont happen and you may just be expecting perfromance differnt from what the car can deliver. Try going to a dealer and asking for a test drive, that will give you a comparision for your car.