qman3428

Two things to try, first start and stop the engine 4 times. if the light goes out job done, if not Try rebooting the cars computer The correct way of rebooting the car is to open the drivers window, close the doors with all accessories turned off and have the bonnet open,disconnect the positive connection on the battery for at least 3 minutes. Reach through the window and turn on the side lights and leave it for at least 15 seconds. Insert the key through the window and turn the ignition on (dont start the car) hold down the lock button for 10 seconds. Remove the key and check the doors lock and unlock. Turn off the sidelights, shut the bonnet and close the window, start the car and reset the clock. You have just rebooted the cars computer. Hopefully that will reset the engine light.

The egr just shows behind the cylinder head on the passenger side of the engine. It has a black coil on the top with an electrical plug going to it (mine is a yellow plug) and a metal pipe from it to the inlet manifold. Disconnecting it should make the car go in to limp mode but it will only do it when it tries to open the valve so engine hot and a reasonable amount of throttle. EGR valves are over £400 fitted by the dealer, they can be removed and cleaned but you need to get under the car to undo the retaining bolts and it is not a straightforwards job. My suggestion, remove the engine cover, look at the inlet manifold there is a sensor closest to the cylinder head, held in place with an 8 mm nut (two close together) remove the sensor and clean it (gently) reconnect the EGR see if you still have a problem.

This can cause permanent damage. The correct way of rebooting the car is to open the drivers window, close the doors with all accessories turned off and have the bonnet open,disconnect the positive connection for at least 3 minutes. Reach through the window and turn on the side lights and leave it for at least 15 seconds. Insert the key through the window and turn the ignition on (dont start the car) hold down the lock button for 10 seconds. Remove the key and check the doors lock and unlock. Turn off the sidelights, shut the bonnet and close the window, start the car and reset the clock. You have just rebooted the cars computer. Saying a short prayer and doing a little dance is optional!

There are so many possibilities I would recomend putting it on a diagnostic, get the code and work from there, otherwise you can be throwing money away. If you are mechanically minded cleaning the mass air sensor and the temperature sensor in the air intake is free and if it fixes it worth the effort.

Mine is a 2009, so I assume the recalls will have hit the production run by the time yours was made. I believe there was a wiper motor recall for some 2011 models and you need to be aware that you cant just disconnect the battery, there is a procedure to follow. Mine now has 92k on the clock and I am getting some issues but nothing for the first 85k, also look up the DPF if you intend to keep the car for high mileage

Lift up the rubber bung at the front of the centre arm rest and as Parkesie says you will find it there. Lexia requires windows XP to install but I have just used a freeware program called VMWare which allows me to install XP as a program in Vista, you need the XP disk (should be OK in windows 7 as well but not windows 8). This is an emulator and convinces the software everything is OK. It then installs in Vista, change the properties of the shortcut to run in XP mode (right click properties advanced). Mine works very well but tries to go online, ensure that it cant by the firewall and disconnect the internet when using it.

to Rod&Hod, I dont know where you are based but I am in Lancashire at weekends and in London Mid week. I have an Airdream spare wheel with a brand new tyre on it. It has never been on a car and I will do you a good price if you want it.

This site lists a CV boot kit as £9.90 (both sides) http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.carsparesdirect.com/images/carsp1739.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.carsparesdirect.com/driveshaft-c-4/sort/2a/page/26&usg=__ETS5Cx_102370hO4ZUYLtYFEFl0=&h=400&w=400&sz=27&hl=en&start=4&zoom=1&tbnid=R9-Qh2oK3zJjYM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=124&ei=M9ckUdKbLYiu9ATs04D4CQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dcitroen%2Bc4%2Bcv%2Bboot%26hl%3Den%26gbv%3D2%26tbm%3Disch&itbs=1&sa=X&ved=0CDAQrQMwAw I think they are ripping you off, if it is "insecure" it jut needs a tie wrap to secure it. You will find it on the near side drive shaft to the front wheel and it is a rubber boot. Just wiggle it to see if one end is loose.

Which scanner did you buy that works on a citroen?

The MAF can affect the performance without recording a fault, it should not be oily at all, there is also a second sensor in the air intake which is similar to the maf in design and talks to the maf, it too should be clean. The link I gave above shows how to test the TPS. If you want to be sure connect a lexia but cleaning sensors is free.

I have just had a similar problem, turned out to be the Mass air sensor, cleaned it and the sensor in the inlet manifold and the problem is cured. Mine didnt let me use the cruise control as the MIL came on. With regard to the TPS yes it is a potentiometer and this might help http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_4489318_troubleshoot-tps-sensor.html

Given the issues I chose to have the DPF removed both pyhsically and in the software, a company called Ecuflash at Doncaster did it for me.

The C5 exclusive doesn't have front sensors either. I believe they were an optional extra and only standard on the C6

I have a 2009 C5 exclusive with a siemens ECU, I am told it is difficult to delete the DPF as the programming is all over the place. Has anyone done this or found a company who can do it for me. They all seem keen until I tell them it is Siemens then they dont want the job I live near Preston if that is of interest

Did it on a Merc, you need the pedal box, a flywheel, clutch, bell housing, release bearings and arm, clutch cable ETC. it is not worth the effort. Part ex it on a manual car if that is what you want. In the long run it is less hassle and no unexpected issues otherwise find a scrapper with the spec you want and buy the car. Take what you want and sell the rest.

Dont know for sure as mine doesnt have Sat nav but it could be searching for GPS

Sounds like the relay is stuck, have you tried a new one?

I actually feel insulted by Paul H, My 2009 C5 Exclusive saloon does not suffer from road noise, in fact the large amount of sound proofing coupled with the double glazed windows and the fact that it doesn't come with low profile tyres means that it whispers along on its magic carpet ride.

You could try fitting a blanking plate between the egr and the manifold, that eliminates the egr from the system and I have found gives a lot more power and performance. Bought mine for my 4x4 from the Mitsubishi owners club but you may find one on Ebay. If you decide to make your own you can use the egr gasket as a template for the outside and holes for bolts but make the plate at least 3mm thick to stand the heat (dont use a coke tin as damage will result)

Had the same thing on a C3 changed the MAS and it then showed the EGR was also at fault but the MAS fault was hiding it. You may need a retest to find if there is a second fault.

You dont need both as the blanking plate will stop the gas irrespective of wether the ERG is open or not. You can also forget the butterfly valve as it will make no difference. The only time you need to do more work is if you get warning lights having fitted the blanking plate. If there is no light there is no problem :) The EGR valve was a california insiped attempt at reducing pollution, funny Citroen fitted them as they dont sell cars there.

If its working put a ball bearing in the vacumm pipe so it doesn't open. If its not working use a blanking plate between the EGR and the manifold. The second is a better solution but the plate needs to be at least 3mm thick or it can burn through causing damage to the engine.

I have been running a mitsubishi with a blanking plate for the last 4 years, best £5 I ever spent.

Check the brake anti rattle spring is still there, I had mine come out and it took weeks to find. Easy fix once I knew what it was.

Sorry to dissapoint but they are probably diesels