mlkey

I got it via ebay. The seller although still active no longer sells the units. Ensure you get genuine cables and all seems to work well. Hope that helps.

Hi, Looking for a good example of the above please. 2003/4 model year with less than 60,000 ideally. Please pm if you can help. Thanks.

I am pretty certain they are the same engine, but if you have an auto and your other car is a manual that will account for the difference. As for the transmission, I suspect it is an AL4. If so, they require a special fluid available from Citroen. DO NOT use dexron as it is not compatible with the AL4 transmission and shorten its life. I have the oil change procedure here somewhere. If you PM me your email I will send it over.

I think you are asking for trouble personally. I set mine to the correct height and it looks low enough at the front when stationary. It only just clears speed ramps now. Good luck with it.

If the suspension is out of adjustment, I would adjust it mechanically rather than with the Lexia. I have sent the details as requested. If you put the car on full height, does the suspension pump cut out withing 15 to 30 seconds? If so the chances are your suspension is not too far off the correct height. My pump would not stop running when the full height was requested and before I adjusted everything.

The procedure is the official Citroen one, and is intended to be done when the vehicle is stationary, if followed to the letter there will not be an issue. Also, in my case I could set the car to full height and the pump would continue to run when suspension travel ran out as the height sensor was not correctly adjusted. After adjustment everything worked perfectly.

Hello everyone, This question is ideally aimed at any C5 2.0i petrol auto drivers, but I am also interested in any other vehicles using the AL4 transmission. When driving the car gently, pulling away with light throttle, it changes into 2nd at around 10mph with the converter still unlocked. I continue to accelerate and at about 25mph the converter is locked bringing the RPM down a little. At 30mph the transmission changes to 3rd and then 4th at around 40mph, both of these changes are with the converter locked. If I repeat the above while accelerating a little harder, the transmission changes to 2nd and then locks the converter almost immediately before changing to 3rd, it just sounds a bit peculiar. I am not suggesting there is anything wrong, although there could be as I have not experienced other AL4's. My question is, do others with this transmission experience this same weird 2nd gear behaviour? Thanks.

Another oil flush done, added a bottle of Wynns hydraulic lifter treatment with the new oil. Tomorrow is a 300 mile run weather permitting, will see how it goes and report back.

Another oil flush done, added a bottle of Wynns hydraulic lifter treatment with the new oil. Tomorrow is a 300 mile run weather permitting, will see how it goes and report back.

Another oil flush done, added a bottle of Wynns hydraulic lifter treatment with the new oil. Tomorrow is a 300 mile run weather permitting, will see how it goes and report back.

I have been checking things on the Lexia, the air intake temperature sensor was reading high compared to coolant and ambient temperatures on a cold engine by some 6c. As the sensor was cheap I changed it. The new sensor is giving the same reading, so that is now ruled out. I will do an oil flush and change tomorrow, maybe add some Wynns Hydraulic Lifter treatment too as we are going on a 300 mile round trip on Saturday. I will report back with any results.

I still think it is the followers... as I do with my own car. I have tried the additive too, also oil flushes and running a 0w40 oil. There are various websites suggesting this is the issue, so I will be saving my pennies to give it a go next year.

Hi Lee, I was not the original poster, just saying I have the same issue. My car has 42k miles on it now, I got it with 31k. I have done flushes and use either 5w 30 or 0w 40 oil. I suspect it is cam followers / buckets in my case and will be changing them soon.

I also have a 2004 SX petrol, and while I do not have the stalling during warm up, it does start to run rough after about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Once it has warmed through it drives like a dream. I have Lexia and there are no fault codes. I have also done a lot of research about this, the only thing I have come up with is that there was an issue with the hydraulic cam followes. There are various accounts on the internet, including several Citroen technicians saying they have change them and cured the car. I work with 3 Citroen technicians, none have heard of this. That said, it is affected very quickly when you start the car, indicating whatever it is is subjected to a fast temperature change, valve lifters would fall into this. I have also checked all sensors and they are giving good readings. I plan to try another set of followers next year as that is the only thing that spoils the drive on an otherwise faultless drive. Hope that helps.

Depends on your driving style. I would suggest you would be hard pushed to have less than 40 miles, but perhaps as many as 60 if you are driving steadily.

Ya think? I towed a caravan with the old HDI, and I tow the same caravan with the current C5. We went down to Cornwall in the summer, and we were breezing past most other caravans on the long uphills on the A38. I continue to be surprised how good it is. Ok, so not much pull in the low RPM, but when the car is capable of near 80 mph in second, then 55mph up the inclines at 4000 RPM is no effort as it is on the engine's max torque output. It does for me, much quieter and more refined than the diesel, and not purchased for speed. It does all we need and that is all I am concerned with.

Previously a 2002 2.0L SX 110 HDI, purchased at 80k miles, sold when it hit 160k. Only failure was head gasket at 118k, no biggie. Now proud owner of 2004 2.0L petrol auto SX, loving it. Got it with just 31k miles on it, now on 42k. Just added cruise and a full non Citroen entertainment system. Told you I would get another, and I will get yet another after this one, comfy well equipped car for not much money. As reliable as anything else if looked after!

Had no trouble removing mine. I disconnected the battery for safety as you need to disturb quite a few plugs. I am pretty sure the ECU you want is the one underneath the one you are looking at. It all comes apart in a logical way.. I used the Haynes manual for wiring diagrams recently, it was fine.

Not 100%, but fairly confident it is behind the battery, inside the fusebox, underneath the top gubbins.

Northampton. I will pm an email address, thanks.

Hi, I think you have answered your own question above. The fact you will have to get it in advance, and it will be easily accessible with the cambelt off. Personally, I did the water pump on mine at the same time as the belt, total peace of mind. Hope that helps.

I might be interested, any chance of a few pics and where are you located?

I have just replaced the full system in my C5. A standard radio will fit. Pop the button surrounds up from the bottom, either side of the radio unit to reveal a torx screw either side, undo them and the radio slides out. A standard unit fits well, you will need to get a surround, adaptor harness (if you get the PC99-X44 it will also allow you to retain the column controls, although the centre screen will no longer have any radio information on it), and the separate little link lead to the head unit, you will be set. Now then, here is the rub.. When I started out on this, it was just a speaker upgrade. My 2004 C5 takes 6.5" speakers by default, so I purchased some nice Earthquake speakers. What can I say, they sounded awful on the standard head unit. So then I purchased a nice Pioneer head unit, and found that although it was louder, it still sounded bad. On examination, I found the speaker wiring inside the car used very thin wires, and I mean very thin.The wires found in the doors are a thicker gauge, and would of been acceptable if they ran throughout the car. So then I ended up running new wiring all through the car for the speakers too.. sounds much better now. It does mean that the traffic master is no longer, but I do not use that anyway. Very happy with the end result. One other thing to watch is the live and accessory wires on the iso adaptor, they were both set to connect to the accessory wire on the cars harness, you may need to move it in the connecting block as I did. Hope that helps.

Hi sifaan. I am pleased to report that I have today finally got cruise enabled.It turns out you only need to enable it in the Injection ECU. I think the trick is that you have to let the car go to sleep after you have done it, i.e. lock it and go have a cup of tea. Come back and it works !!! :)

It is possible. Likewise, it is possible they ran it low on oil for a while. Hopefully you are all sorted now. I change the oil on mine every year, double flushing to get as much of the old out as I can. I know it is an added expense, but I feel it gives me a few benefits. 1. Gear changes remain nice and smooth, enhancing the drive. 2. The level gets checked every year, minimising the risk of running low on oil.