mlkey

Coolant getting excessively pressurised and blowing cap vent, tried replacing the cap, made no difference. Guess I need to do a head gasket :unsure:. Anyone done one of these on a 2.0L 2002 110 HDI 8V? Just wondering if there were any tips / tricks / special tools? Thanks in advance.

I just priced up some kumho's online for about £85 delivered. Can get the fitted from about £15 the pair.

I have already put a new battery on, but will look at the key switch. I did turn it off and on a few times to see if it help. Incidentally, even with the passenger airbag turned off at the keyswitch the following morning, it still flagged the fault.

Well, you were saying it was quiet.. Have an intermittent issue with a message (Passenger Airbag deactivated) coming up on my 2002 C5 2L HDI. It only does it on really cold mornings, in the summer it was rare, and now we are in winter, it does it most mornings. I noticed, that by starting the car and running it for a minute, and then restarting, the fault would be gone. On a really cold day, this does not work. Done so far: The car had been getting a little slow cranking on the cold mornings, and coupled with the fact I was getting this message, and having read about the spurious messages that can appear if the battery is not too good, I purchased a new one. The cranking is greatly improved, but the airbag issue is exactly the same. I then tried the connector under the passenger seat, on the offchance, but still have the same issue. If I use the car on a cold morning, the fault generally does not reoccur that day, unles it is exceptionally cold. Any other connectors worth checking, or earth points? Thanks.

Sorted mine out a treat! All round, a better performance, well, it was until the intercooler started leaking precious boost, will change that shortly.

Good chance it will be the downstream (after the cat) O2 sensor. Can you feel the misfire when driving? If so, is it less noticeable or non existant when you start the car from cold, or accelerate under WOT (Wide Open Throttle)? During coldstart, and WOT, the downstream sensor is ignored (open loop), and the mixture is enriched. If the sensor is giving a constantly high reading, it will cause the fuel to lean out, which in turn can lead to the misfire code. Hope that helps.

Definately get the MAF sensor, sounds like the classic symptoms, and is a breeze to fit, 2 screws and a jubilee clip ! Better still, just grab the whole air filter assembly, as the MAF sits on the end of it. The air temp sensor is also part of the MAF sensor. They do take some stick, and for the sake of £60 new from ebay, I am going to replace mine every 2 years, such is the effect it has on driveability and economy. Good luck.

Is it an inconsistent power loss, maybe described as surging or pulsing? I had the black smoke issue when I first got the car, that turned out to be the EGR valve.

I just filled up today, got 67.4 litres in :o which was cutting it a bit fine as tank supposed to take 68 litres. I covered 842 miles on that which worked out close to 57 mpg. Most of that was steady 60 ish mph on the motorway. Love the fuel economy of these motors! Would be interested in your findings when you get to the bottom of it. My last car had 204 bhp, weighed 1100 kg. Went very nicely, but came to a sticky end on the M6 toll last November. The C5 impresses me, especially on motorways, pulls very nicely for overtaking, feels like it pulls harder than the previous car when accelerating from 50 or 60 in 5th gear.

Subjective based on what you call sluggish. I also have the puddle, not too worried about it. Don't forget the engine breather system vents into the intake system between the MAF and the turbo, so anything it chucks in there goes through the turbo and to the intercooler. Technically, if you have oil coming out of the intercooler, you are leaking precious boost. That said, mine is still pulling very well, and coupled with good fuel return, can't be much wrong. I have just replaced the MAF due to variable power issues, lack of bottom end etc. Now it pulls lovely, especially on the motorways. I cover 500 miles a week commuting, and some local running around, tank range normally around 800. Hope that helps.

You said it "sounds good but not real", effectively accussing me of making this stuff up. Simple truth is.. Started having intermittent power losses, boost issues etc. progressed eventually to an antipolution fault message and MIL light. Airbox was full of water (thanks again myglaren), and presumably, some of that made it down the intake. Checked MAF, one of the two elements (not the thermister) was missing, green corrosion on the remaining parts. Changed MAF, now turbo is boosting correctly from around 1600RPM, all very smooth, no sudden surges in power, MIL and message gone. So, whether it sounds real or not, that is the story, whether you choose to accept it, is up to you. I never take anything for granted, especially that any given fault will cause a given symptom, as if you do, you are saying you know all there is to know. I am always learning, as I am sure you are, even at our tender age.

The MAF don't work very well at all if one of the two films is missing Techbod! Whats the hang up? Why accuse people of bulling when they are only offering to share a source for cheap parts and good service?

A final update, fitted a new MAF sensor today, sorted the air filter housing to prevent it filling up with water again, and its driving like a dream. Much more low down grunt thatn its had in the time since I have had it, and much smoother on the throttle. I got the MAF from a seller on ebay, have to say, very impressed with them. Ordered yesterday lunch time, arrived this morning, very well packaged. Saved about £50 on a genuine part, and even if it does not last so long, its no biggie. If anyone needs a MAF, or any other sensors (they appear to do most), drop me a line and I will happily recommend. :D

As mentioned, being electronic, can be adjusted without engine. As for when you unlock the car, this is due to the temperature changes causing the pressure to increase or reduce, therefore changing the cars height while parked. This is easily proven as you lock the car in the evening and come back to it on a cold morning, you will see it raise itself to compensate for the drop in pressure. Likewise, leave it on a cool morning, and return on a hot afternoon, it will drop to compensate for the pressure increase. Hope that helps.

Just been through this with mine. Symptoms were a lack of bottom end power, was ok over 2100rpm. I opened up the air filter housing, removed the air filter, found water in the bottom of the housing. The filter was also wet. I then checked the MAF, there was some green corrosion on the wires inside the meter, and so it is being replaced. I have purchased a new one from ebay for £60 delivered, should be here today, will let you know the outcome (and the seller if you need one). Not sure if there is a way to reliably check these things without some sort of test equipment. If you unplug it and try the car, this just flags up an anti pollution fault and leaves you with no boost. What are the symptoms with your car?

Its being sucked up the intake. not surprising with the exceptionally wet weather. Either the housing does not have a drain, or it is blocked. Either way, it will be rectified at the weekend.

Hi myglaren and thank you. I finally open the air filter housing today, removed the slightly damp feeling element, to find the cone shape area in the bottom of the filter housing had several inches of water in it. From the tide marks that are evident, it has actually made it to the top.. I will drill a hole in the botton at the weekend to stop it filling up again. I also inspected the MAF sensor. There is green corrosion on the edges of the elements, looks like the damp got to that too. I cleaned it using a cotton bud and some electrical contact cleaner. That has improved things no end, but looking at it, I think I will replace it. Thanks again for your help.

Hi all, Had my 52 plate 110 HDI for about a year, covered about 30k miles in that time, the car now on 110k. About two months ago in heavy rain it lost some of the performance intermittently, returning after a few dry miles later in the journey. During this time, I would be accelerating, feeling the boost pulling nicely, when suddenly it was like backing almost right off. The car has since been fine, until midweek. We had some heavy rain and it did the same again, but this time it seems to of stayed like it, even after plenty of dry miles. So now... it just seems sluggish. Hard to describe, but like extended turbo lag. The boost does come in, but takes longer, and is more sudden. Pulling out of junctions is sluggish until the rpm gets into the low 2k RPM, when the boost comes all at once, before used to pull from around 1600 RPM. I am thinking maybe the MAF sensor, any ideas welcome. Thanks.

I had similar problems.. Mine was a noisey gearbox and hard to engage when cold. Change the oil. 5/16 square drive to drain, refill via the breather. Do it when you have been on a run so the oil is nice and thin. It is worth measuring how much comes out, it should be 2 litres, in my case it was 1.2 litres. I also added a gearbox treatment (many available from Halfords). Now things are much better, Still a little tight when cold, but eases within a minute or so.I am beginning to think it is clutch drag on mine, but just like you, if I engage the 1st or reverse before starting, all is fine.

It is a buyers market right now, and the same applies as what I said earlier, with a Citroen, you will be paying out less in the first place, so therefore although your eventual selling price may be lower, so your purchase price would of been, so you are likely to lose a similar amount. Re economy, the 110 2.0L gives the best economy of the bunch, the auto giving from about 32 to 55 mpg. You will be hard pushed to beat that unless gettting a small car. The tax is dearer though than the manual. Would be interested to know what you end up with if you don't mind? Mike.

Personally, I would get the 2L 110 HDI. I got my first one on a 52 plate with 82k on it in January. Its not the best example, has a rattly column to replace and a few minor issues, like the door locks. The car has now done 106k, and I have to say I am mightily impressed. At a steady 55, I get 60ish to the gallon, just a few weeks ago I went up to Scotland, fully loaded with 4 adults, 500 mile drive, got there on two thirds of a tank... 51 to the gallon at 70, and all the hills / windy roads etc. Now for the costs.. why did I get a Citroen? I wanted a diesel due to the miles I cover (30k a year). I decided to go french as in my opinion, they are about the best diesel engines. They designed the engine that went into the Jag S Type, now also in the new C5. Their engines are respected the world over. I looked at Citroen, Renault and Peugot. The outcome, well, the Citroens are so cheap compared to their alternative marque equivalents, so while you may have to throw a few bits at it, you would be able to either get into a newer Citroen than most other marques for the same money, or get something a bit cheaper and do the work when you get it if it needs any. I have been in the motor trade for 24 years, all the way from dealers to the manufacturing plant. I can hand on heart tell you all makes have their problems, some more than others, but you have to also account for the part prices, which in Citroens case is pretty reasonable. Would I have another C5? Without hesitation. Why? Not because I am a Citroen nut, but because it has been the cheapest car to run I have owned. Cheap to buy, economical, big and comfy, cheap insurance and tax, and a pretty good NCAP rating as an aside. Good luck with your decision. And to answer your question, I say take the money on offer and go after a 2L 110 HDI with your cash.. One more point to pick up on, if your car has so many issues and costly repairs needed, why would the dealer offer you £1k so readily? Easy... It is going to cost him squat to fix and sell on, nice healthy profit for him. The issues are superficial, brakes and exhausts do wear out, they are consumables. You will have this on any car at some point. Mike.

Thanks for sharing that bit of info. I will call my local dealer and see what they quote, if it is unrealistic, it will be well worth the drive to Lincoln to get it done. Did they do it while you waited, or did you have to leave the car with them all day? Mike.

Thought I would post an update re this.. I found the issue, although not cured totally. It is something to do with the instrument panel lighting dimmer. When the lighting is being dimmed to any degree, the flickering occurs randomly, but when on full bright there is no flicker. Conclusion: Am guessing the dimmer needs cleaning (thanks techbod) or is on the way out, so will use it on full bright to effectively avoid its use for now.

Instrument Panel / dashboard :)

Okies, had this going on since I got the car (2002 2.0 HDI 5 Dr) in January, wondered if anyone else has had / got the same issue.. is it a characteristic, or a fault? So, driving along in the dark with lights on, and every now and again (seems random), all the IP illumination dims (with a bit of flickering maybe) for a few seconds before going back to how it was. I have ruled out as much as I can without pulling things to bits... like trying to recreate the issue when stationary. First thought was the suspension pump, and by lowering then raising the suspension, I can get it to flicker, but it is only a very quick flicker as it cuts in. Turned all other electrics off, but it still seems to do it... Alternator maybe? thinking about it, don't recall it doing it when stationary with engine running and lights on. Any ideas welcome... Cue Techbod :)