mlkey

Waves !! Not saying nothing about me C5!

Shell V Power Diesel is the mutts nutts at this sort of thing. I run mine only on this now. When the head gasket went, the pistons were almost spotless and the motor had done 117k at the time, the last 10k on V power. Get the tank real low and brim it, that will clean it up in no time. If you are getting a bit of smoke, you can also try disconnecting the EGR at the vacuum pipe before the MOT.

you would certainly know if you had no turbo, total lack of power and takes forever to get up the gears..

4k is probably about right, only a small turbo on the C5's. Designed to spool up quicker at low revs and give plenty of low down punch, once you get above 3k, it is at full speed and so you will feel the power dropping off. You should have pretty crisp revs to around 3500 RPM before it starts to back off a bit. In reality, these motors are best driven between 1500 and 3000 RPM for the full benefit of turbo, and bearing in mind 70MPH is about 2300 RPM, 4K should very rarely be seen.. Find a bit of quiet road with a brick wall on one side, window down, 1200 RPM, give it some pedal as you ut it, and you should hear the turbo whistling like your grannies kettle by the time you hit about 1700 RPM, as well as feeling the power coming in.

I never had any trouble with mine, only thing you have to do is get the keyfob working again or you get the immobiliser message with you switch the ignition on. All I did was lock the car and unlock it using the fob, then it works fine.

Forgot to say, it is best to immerse the intercooler in water when you do the check, to be sure the air leak is not coming from your inner tube seals, it you refit, be sure it is dry inside before doing so..

They seem to be readily available on ebay for around the £150 mark, not sure if they are genuine part though.

There are two reasons for the oil. Firstly, the engine breather vents to the air intake (pre turbo), so it is likely that some of the oil is coming from there. Secondly, if the turbo itself is worn, it may be letting some oil get into the intake pipes. Mine has the oil around the intercooler issue (2.0L 120k miles), but unless you are either getting a lot of smoke out of the exhaust, or using excessive oil, I would not be too concerned. Mine uses about a half litre of oil every 6000 miles, but is not smoking. Obviously, if the intercooler is leaking the oil out, and you have checked the hoses are tight, then there is a leak, and ultimately, some of your boost pressure will be escaping, whether it is enough to worry about is another matter.. A simple check is to remove the intercooler, and get a decent size inner tube from somewhere. Cut a large piece of the tube out and seal it securely over one of the pipe outlets with a jubilee clip, now cut another piece containing the valve and fit it over the other. Using a footpump (do not use a compressor), try to put a pressure of 1 bar (approx 15psi) into the intercooler. If the leaks are bad, you hear them and will not be able to maintain the pressure easily, and it should be replaced. Hope that helps.

Not using the Eolys fluid would probably prevent the DPF from regenerating, as the temperature required would not be sufficient, even with the faster runs, eventually blocking the filter. In other makes (Mazda, Land Rover to name a couple), they use an additional injection of diesel when the regen is required. If the driver stops driving in the required style during the regen, normally over 2k RPM and top gear for 20ish minutes, the regen aborts, and results in the oil level rising due to the addition of diesel. Not a good way to do things, it is even mentioned in the handbook on Mazda!

If it is a light knock (rattley noise), have you checked the steering columm? They wear just above where they connect to the rack, and can rattle (knock) like anything. You don't feel it through the steering wheel, but could easily associate it to suspension. You can check it by getting your hand around the bottom of the column above the UJ, you will be able to move it to reproduce the knock quite easily. Mine currently has the issue, and I will be replacing the column when the weather picks up - around £170 from a dealer.

Does depend on the sort of roads your driving, do you do a lot of town or city driving? If so, could expect a higher rate of wear on edges with all the cornering. I do mainly motorway and dual carriageway, and have just got 39k out of the rears, although they were cheap budget cast iron - no grip but last forever. Trying Kuhmo's now, seem very good. Failing that a geometry check would not go amiss, although you will almost never get it for free, as most places will tell you it needs adjustment, even when it doesn't.

There ya go Techbod..

Good result! Mine is a little slow :unsure: Will remember this one for if it decides to have cold start issues! Thanks for feedback :lol:

Not sure if it fitted on the later models, but on the early ones (pre 2004), the only driveaway locking is on the estate, and it only locks the tailgate.

You can take a look with the engine ticking over when warm, just keep your fingers/clothes/hair out of the way. Look down the end of engine when idling, at the bottom (crank) pulley. A slight amount of movement is acceptable, as that is what the pulley has the rubber damper for, but if it is the cause of your noise, you will see it wobbling all over the place. I noticed mine is looking perished when i did the timing belt, not sure how much they are at a dealer, but there is someone on ebay knocking them out for £99.

Glow plugs are not used until zero degrees, and then for only 0.5 of a second. As the previous post said, -5 is where they start to work for any considerable time. Save you money and look at other areas, fuel delivery, compression etc.

You don't have to, but you would be mad not too. The timing belt drives the water pump, if you don't change it, and then it goes, you have to pay all the labour to remove and refit the timing belt to get at the water pump. A genuine Citroen pump is around £40. If a jobs worth doing...

80k is a good mileage for changing the belt, false economy to drag it out, especially if it does give out on you, money well spent.

10 amps would be too close to the constant pull of 9 amps on dip, and would not allow for any initial spike when you switch them on, by all means try, but I think the fuse would pop. What bulbs are you fitting? Some do seem to last longer than others.. I travel mainly early morning and late evening, so the headlights are mostly on every day for at least two hours, the passenger side one has not blown in the time I had the car, but I have replaced the driver side twice..

I would agree on the voltage fluctuations. The other thing that can cause them to go prematurely is hard suspension, which obviously, the C5 does not have. I also tried running some Halfrauds Extreme Brilliance bulbs. I replaced one of the standard bulbs with the aforementioned when it blew, only to have the replacement blow within 3 months. The other standard bulb is still going strong. So, while you can get the better performing bulbs, I personally believe their service life is seriously compromised due to the hotter (brighter) burn.

This thread has become, just too funny :( The simple truth of the matter is this... In every trade through the walks of life, there are good and bad examples. Good plumbers, and bad plumbers. Good chip shops and bad. The motor industry is no exception. And the solution is equally simple... if you live near a bad main dealer and it is keeping you awake at night worrying about it, you should consider moving house to an area where there is a good dealer. Be careful though, you may not get a good estate agent! :ph34r:

Think maybe you are all missing a few points.. I work at a motor manufacturer, and see first hand, how the manufacturer (yes the manufacturer) screws the dealer for every penny. Lets start with diagnostics... First off it is a condition of signing up to become a dealership for just about any brand, that you purchase or lease the diagnostic kit, terminal software, dealer portal, branding and corporate stuff etc... There is often in addition to this, a yearly fee, to keep the diag up to date, as well as having access to technical assistance from the manufacturer, which in the case of the manufacturer I work with, is a scarey prospect on its own. And what about warranty? Dealers get screwed to the floor with it, they have to do it at greatly reduced labour rates, and if by chance, a common fault appears which requires a campaign, the manufacturer will very quickly reduce the book time on that job to reduce their warranty bill from the dealers. Would I use a main dealer? No. Why? Because it is expensive, and because I like to repair my own motors. I agree that dealers are too expensive for most owners unless the vehicle is under warranty, or it is basic stuff, but the fact remains, the dealer costs ARE pushed up by the manufacturer as they themselves seek to pull some revenue from the dealers, milking them for everything they can, and just like any business, the customer foots the bill ultimately. So while I personally would not use dealers for the reasons above, I do have some sympathy for them in that they do not make anywhere near the money many people think, especially in these times where even their new car margins have been wiped out.

Will see what I can find out, but don't get too hopeful. When the car manufacturers design and order their parts, the supplier will either manufacture the matching quantity of components, or source some of them from pre agreed 3rd tier suppliers to complete the unit they are supplying. All suppliers have to be approved by the car manufacturer to ensure all components have PSW (parts supplier warranty). So even if we can find out who makes the intake unit, there is a good chance they sourced the motor from a 3rd tier. Will see what I can do.

Try Adrian Flux (google), they seem to like the policies other insurers don't like, and generally, well priced too! They specialise in young drivers and modified / high performance vehicles.

Can be tricky, some parts are easier than others. e.g. most heater units are made by visteon. I may be able to help you if you let me know what in particular you are looking to find out..