mlkey

Its under the back seat, drivers side. Lift the seat base and you will see a very large round black cover. Its under there.

2002 110 HDI SX. Got it in Jan 08 with 80k on the clock, pretty tidy generally. Did the big service when I got it (cambelt etc), and it is now on 103k. I love it and would not hesitate to buy another. Cheap to buy, cheap to insure, excellent mpg (between 53 and 60 on my 100 miles daily run). Very happy.

From what you say, it sounds like electrical fault around the ignition or immobiliser circuits. I would check the switch on the back of the ignition barrel, could be dirty or worn. Simple (cheap) things first. Should be very careful, playing with the high pressure part of the injection system, 1300 bar will do serious damage if you get it wrong.

I had the exact same problem. It was the switch on the drivers pack. I dismantled it and cleaned all the contacts, reassembled.... Perfect. The whole job took about 45 minutes. The switchpack pulls out of the door by pulling the narrow ends alternately upwards. The switchpack is held together by springy plastic retainers, gently ply them back slightly with a thin screwdriver as you seperate the base from the rest of the pack. You only need to remove the base section to clean the contacts. Lift off the rubber contacts mat and gently clean the contacts and underside of the rubber contacts. I used cotton buds and some electrical cleaner.

Good price!

Well, being as you seem to be intent on justifying your knowledge, I may as well introduce myself properly being new here.. Did my mechanical apprenticeship when I left school, moved shortly after from cars to motorbikes, mainly Honda and Yamaha, did those for a couple of years. Owned a Yahama RD500 and many others, so yes I know all about 2 strokes and crankcase lubrication, reeds and induction, powervalves etc.. Then back to cars, working for Rover, then Citroen and finally Nissan, before moving to work for Tickford Engineering in Milton Keynes. Was an engineer heavily involved in the design of the Ford RS Focus, developing the engine and bolting turbos and intercoolers in, hollow driveshafts and much more.. Head hunted and accepted a place on the Jaguar F type project in 2001, shame it was canned due to budget, was a beast in the making, it may be out of mothballs very soon! And then eventually over to LR, playing with lots of diesels and engines having 2 EGR's... double the fun... Have a great day!

Don't want to paint the picture of driving tooooooo slowly but.... on my daily commute from Northampton to Solihull, I get between 800 and 900 miles to a tank every time. I am very impressed with the economy of these cars.

Yes indeed, did not intend to give the impression I was dismissing your advice, sorry if it sounded that way. Does nearly 30 years in the motor trade including the last ten years at a world class 4x4 manufacturer (where they incidentally have an awful lot of EGR issues) count for nothing these days? ;)

MAF = Mass Air Flow Meter/Sensor, I thought that was the cause of my issues too, but in the end it all came down to the EGR. It did not flag any fault codes / lights, just poor performance when it decided to stick. The vacuum pipes are located under a plastic shield up against the bulkhead in the nearside corner of the engine bay, just need to trace with one goes to the EGR. It takes two minutes to disconnect (blank off the pipe and solenoid with some insulation tape while you try it), and if it does not make a difference, you can easily reconnect. Afraid I can not help with the MAF, as I never had to investigate it on mine. I would check the EGR before the MAF, as it is the easier to check, and a very common problem. Mike.

Worked fine for me. As long as the valve is not stuck open, it has the same effect as blanking.

Mine was EGR. Sometimes had power, sometimes did not. Usually accompanied by some smoke out of the exhaust when power is lacking, sometimes it accelerates in surges. It was all down to the EGR. I just blanked off the vacuum pipe and it was cured. Went from getting about 40mpg to regular 60's on the motorway. Hope that helps.

Personally, I would change at 80k, I did and it was not a good state when it came off. Comes with a new tensioner kit, and I also changed the water pump at the same time as was stripping engine to that level. For the sake of 20k miles, it just is not worth hanging it out.. Mike.

This is my challenge for today. The rattle is really annoying when on bad roads.. The rattle is caused by the section of column where it passes through a collar directly above the UJ, it is not the UJ or the rack. I can replicate the noise just but wobbling the column by hand. Been told the only cure is to replace the whole column, circa £500. Think I will try putting some PTFE around the column where it passes through the collar and see if it works, will report back. Mike.

Mission accomplished... Thanks! It was a 5/16 in the end. I am pretty annoyed with my local guy, he assured me the oil level was fine, although I now see he coulod not of checked it. There was only 1.3 litres in there, so I guess the damage is done, put two fresh litres in and tube of gearbox additive to help things along. I had trouble with the speed sensor, so used the breather, seems the easier route, nothing spat back out. Thanks again!

Mission accomplished... Thanks! It was a 5/16 in the end. I am pretty annoyed with my local guy, he assured me the oil level was fine, although I now see he coulod not of checked it. There was only 1.3 litres in there, so I guess the damage is done, put two fresh litres in and tube of gearbox additive to help things along. I had trouble with the speed sensor, so used the breather, seems the easier route, nothing spat back out. Thanks again!

Thanks. Went to do it tonight, but could not work out why my allen keys would not fit the drain plug until I used a mirror to see it is a square drive... Don't suppose you know the size? Will need to buy one tomorrow... Thanks for all your help.

Thanks.. Where do I find the speed sensor? I can do this tonight in the lovely sun...

Manual and most definately the diff/transmission, not a wheel bearing.

Hi all, Seem to have a noisy diff on my C5 52 plate, from what I have found so far this is reasonably standard. Best described as a whining noise that increases or decreases by road speed, not affected by different gear selection. Most noticable on acceleration/deceleration. Question is this. How can I check/drain/replace the transmission oil? Is it possible to do this without removing drive shafts etc? My plan was to replace the oil as it has done 100k now, and then put one of the additives in with new oil as an attempt to reduce the noise a bit. Thanks.

Me again, I will post this here in case anyone else comes across the same problem. It was the EGR valve. I disconnected the vacuum pipe, and blanked it off at the solenoid, it has been as good as gold since, and went straight through the MOT. Covered 9000 miles since this, getting mid 50's to the gallon with mixed roads. Hope this is of use to someone.

Hello, My first post, thought I would share this gem with you. I recently picked up a 52 plate C5 110 HDI. Shortly after purchase I started having uneven power at about 2000 rpm. Can best be described as surging. It was as if I was fluctuating the throttle, and was accompanied by a puff of smoke out of the exhaust with each surge. Sometimes I would have no boost from the turbo, other times there would be some. There is every chance it is the egr valve. This can be checked very easily. Open the bonnet and on right hand drives, look on the nearside up by the bulkhead (by the brake servo), there is a small plastic shield secured by two plastic retainers. Pull the centre pin up on the retainers and pull the retainers out, remove the shield. Underneath there are 3 little round black solenoids, each with two vacuum pipes and a small two wire multiplug. On my C5, the solenoid in question has the blue electrical connector. Check which of the two pipes runs along the bulk head and down towards the exhaust manifold, and disconnect it, tape the end of the pipe up to prevent dirt entering. You now need to seal the outlet on the solenoid. Easiest way is to leave the flexible piece of pipe on the solenoid and block it with a small bolt or blanking plug. DO NOT LEAVE THE VACUUM CIRCUIT OPEN - THIS COULD AFFECT BRAKING! Now try your car! On mine, it was perfect, and I have gone from 44mpg and running pretty rough to 55mpg and purring. Enjoy!

Hi, Newbie poster here. Picked up my C5 2.0 110 HDI today, a 52 plate with 82k on it. I have noticed an issue under acceleration, no idea how to describe it but will try. When accelerating gently I notice sometimes there is like a pulsing of power, like accerate one second, hold back one second, accelerate one second, hold back one second. Its almost like your dabbing the brakes very gently for a second at a time, or like an aircon compressor putting load on the engine. I have tried with the air con off, also it does not seem to do it all the time. Not sure if I am imagining the next part.. When I collected the car it did not have much fuel in, I drove the 40 miles home and did not notice this problem. I then filled it up, and it was shortly after that I started tp notice the problem. Grateful for any assistance anyone can offer. Mike.