Simple

I also have a 2003 Citroen C8 2.0 HDi. I bought a full chip Lexia interface from Aliexpress.com last year for about 56 Euro and it is working fine... It is not the car that is suspect, it is the tool, some of them do not work on "Citroen C5 and Peugeot 308". The newer model of Lexia "A.1281 Z" is now available, the older model "9780.Z5", they look identical except the logo on the newer ones is grey and the new OBDII cable is one piece and does not have the bulky connector in the middle. Ensure you get the Full Chip one and that it works with Citroen C5....

Yes, but in French!! Search the net for this: RTA - CITROËN C8 - PEUGEOT 807 2.0 et 2.2 HDi depuis 06-2002 - FIAT Ulysse et LANCIA Phedra 2.0 et 2.2 JTD depuis 09-2002.pdf

To perform an accurate and scientific process, I reviewed all documents I could lay my hands on, including the French manual "RTA - CITROËN C8...pdf", and watched some YouTube videos. The way I changed the oil is as follows: # Precaution: Ensure that the filling plug is released before dropping the oil, you don’t want to end up with a gearbox that is empty and cannot be refilled. 1- Drove the car until operational temperature (90C) then parked it in the drive way. I jacked it up and ensured it was horizontal (using spirit level and laser gun). 2- Connected the Lexia device and kept it connected throughout, checked temperature and performed other tasks (preparations, diagnosis, deleted errors and waited) until Gear oil temperature was around 63C degrees. 3- With the Gear Lever in P, started engine, inserted a clean dry 5 liter container under the drainage point and opened the drainage nut (If oil level was high, it would spill the excess into the container until it trickles in drops; amount can be measured). In my case I got few drops, indicating correct or possibly low level. 4- Stopped engine (with temp at 66C) and removed the plastic insert (inside the drainage hole) using Allen key size 8. The oil gushed out until trickled, I started the engine few seconds and I got another spill. Total amount of drained oil was 2.77 Liter of reasonably good oil, since I performed first change 6 months ago. 5- Put back the plastic insert, replaced the drainage plug and filled in 3 Liters of Mobil LT 71141. 6- Started the engine, foot on brake and changed (all) gears very slowly until temperature is around 63C. 7- While Engine is on and gear in Park, opened the drainage plug and released excess oil in new dry and clean container (got a short spillage then drops). Now oil level is correct. 8- Replaced the drainage plug and added 0.25 Liter of Mobil LT71141, closed the filling plug.* 9- Drove the car under the same conditions few times now (previously, the error was easy to replicate under certain conditions), but the error has not occurred since. * What actually happened here is that I overfilled by 0.45 liter, and immediately drove the car pushing it hard, when I kicked down (accelerator to the floor), I got a Lexia “Temporary fault, One-touch control signal†error template with no data. I assume this is either because I overfilled or the oil was full of bubbles and has not settled yet. Hence, the second day I removed all the excess oil (which came to be 230 ml only) and overfilled by only 250 ml (0.25 liter), and tried to replicate the error but it never occurred again. There is no leakage in my gearbox, so the only explanations I have are that: a- I assume that the oil did not fill all the holes and cavities it was supposed to occupy, and it took a couple of short trips and settling overnight to do so. b- I have also noticed the presence of tiny bubbles when adding the clean oil, they may help to give a fake indication of the correct oil level, especially when they expand due to heat. Hence, I advise to overfill by 25 to 50 ml of fresh oil or you can close the nut when the oil becomes a thin trickle and not drops. c- The “Temporary fault, One-touch control signal†may have been as a result of slippage due to the air bubbles (I could not replicate this error the second day, even before adjusting the oil level) or communication error between the main ECU and the Gearbox ECU. d- Last time I obtained the Gearbox oil from the dealer "4HP20" at about 17.5 Euro a liter, this time I ordered Mobile LT71141 over the net (from France) at 7.5 Euro plus 10 Euro delivery to Ireland. I actually took measurements of all activities (unlike first time I changed the oil) to ensure I would be in position to analyze the data if need be. I hope the above may help someone..

I forgot to mention that the amount of oil overfill was 250ml (0.25 Liter or quarter a liter), the recommendation on the Malaysian site was overfill by half a Liter. Also, I actually did buy the solenoids from China, but what I received did give the confidence to fit in my car.

I don't need to change the solenoids after all. I came across a Malaysian site where a couple of users had problems identical to mine (namely, Gear fault in the first 10 minutes of driving and when the rev is above 2k, that does not happen again when engine is warm/hot), they solved theirs by flushing the oil and over filling by 0.5 liter. So, whilst I am communicating with another source for the 2574.16, I decided to flush the oil for the second time, but this time I added half a liter more than the standard level... Well, it has worked.. the gear is no longer failing and I don't need to change the solenoids...

This is a very weird problem, if you are not using the wrong key, and if the key is not damaged (or has some deposits on it), and if the locks have not seized (due to dirt or frost), then someone must have tried to pick the locks and damaged them or threw some dirt into them!!! Clean the key with a toothbrush or something similar, spray some DW40 or diesel (even better for this purpose), then try (both sides) carefully opening the locks.

The RPO is listed on a sticker on the driver's door, where the tyre pressure is quoted. It is a 4 digit number code, such as: 9550 = 01 Jan 2003 9731 = 01 July 2003 9914 = 31 Dec 2003 You will notice that 9914 - 9550 is 364 days (1 year). Based on that, you can estimate your own manufacturing date if you don't wish to use an RPO calculator.

That could happen if you did not put in the correct RPO number for the car.. To ensure you inserted the correct number, use this calculator to check if it gives you the correct manufacturing date. http://www.citroen-ds-id.com/gen/Gen_Organr.html

@richardx4, take out the starter motor, disassemble and clean it and change the brushes. it should do the trick. By the way, my car is 2003 2.0 HDi 109hp, it has FAP and it does not have the hand primer shown in the photo.

Actually, Paul.h is right, you can listen to them and the one that does not make the "faint" noise is the faulty one: Ignition on --> gear in reverse (you can hear the noise inside the car) --> put your ear next to the sensor for 20 seconds (or a sensitive mic)... the one that does not make the (very low) noise is faulty or disconnected... Having said that, I tried removing one only, the car makes a faint noise indication a missing sensor, it did not work. Unless of course the noise you are having now is the faint noise which indicates a sensor is not connected properly!!

An other example where it says full chip etc.. but may not work with C5 or 307!! http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-High-Recommended-Lexia3-Full-Chip-Lexia-3-PP2000-Serial-921815C-Diagnostic-Tool-for-Citroen-Peugeot/32367418826.html

The Chinese clones of Lexia 3 all come with the necessary software and cables (OBD2 for the car and USB for the PC) for the C8 (except for a couple of the new Citroens), they are in three qualities: 1- Exact copy with premium components 2- Exact copy with cheap/er components 3- Slightly altered design with reduced component count (cheapest) They all work, some are known to have an issue with Citroen C5, you need to check on the sellers advert or page. They usually say something like serial 921815C and Full Chip (indicating 1 or 2). Example (this might fall in quality one), you will notice in the description that it works with the Citroen C5: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PP2000-V25-Lexia3-Lexia-3-V48-Diagbox-7-40-Serial-921815C-With-Original-Full-Chip-Lexia/1848455975.html or this where you need to check if it works with C5 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-Three-Years-Warranty-LEXIA3-PP2000-Professional-Diagnsotic-interface-lexia-3-for-citroen-peugeot-full-set/1902034013.html Here you will notice that C5 is not mentioned in the supported cars: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Quality-2013-Latest-Citroen-Peugeot-Diagnostic-Tool-PP2000-With-V6-19-Diagbox-Lexia-V24-LEXIA3/844372978.html

In my case it used to fail occasionally then permanently (I don't recall showing a fault). However, after replacing the sensor, it has gone crazy 3 or 4 times and the BSI reset fixed it. The Lexia 3 clones are available (just google "Lexia 3 Citroen" ebay or aliexpress), the software runs on Windows 7 or XP 32bit only (you need to read the forums). If you have 64 bit (like me), you can run it on a Virtual Machine such as Oracle Virtualbox or VMware Player.

The control unit for the parking sensors is behind the back light, below the end of the back window (driver side). Most likely one sensor (or more) have failed..

I had similar problem, it was a faulty sensor that needed replacement. Lexia interface identified which one. With respect to the windows, this is usually the case after BSI reset. Remove the battery cover Put the drivers window down, ensure all devices are off and all doors are closed. Remove key from ignition and wait 3 minutes. Disconnect battery for 15 seconds Reconnect battery (through driver window) and wait 10 seconds, do not open doors or operate and device. Switch on side lights (through drivers window), you will hear a bong. Switch ignition on (do not start the car) and check all system's functionality. Hold the lock button on the key for 10 seconds. Remove the key, open and close the door and test the central locking system. Start the engine and complete system check.... This resetting procedure should not exceed 5 minutes Extra: before starting the engine, put ignition on, then open and close front windows pressing the buttons not less than 1 second. Start the Engine to conclude the resetting procedure. .

This issue sounds very similar to one I unfortunately faced. It was not a loose connection (which would have been an easy one to repair), or a broken tooth on the flywheel. It was the lever linking the solenoid to the cog of the starter motor, it is made of plastic and was broken. When you position the key to start the car, the solenoid moves forward, engaging the starter motor sprocket/cog into the flywheel toothed area which also activates the contacts, causing the starter motor to spin, hence revolving the crank and starting the engine. If you have the same issue, your options are: * It is either a new/reconditioned starter motor. or * Buy a replacement part, if you could find it, I could not.. or * Glue it using strong epoxy that can take high temperature and sudden shocks like JB weld (not enough by the way) and rap it with a metal jacket that can perform the levering action. Taking the starter motor out and replacing it was not difficult. Good Luck.

I was informed that the Firmware on my Gearbox (listed in my initial post) is the latest, and is compatible with Borg-Warner solenoids.

I would like to share the way I resolved the problem of worn out alternator slip-rings. I couple of years back I changed the contact brushes on the Valeo Alternator on my C8, I noticed that the slip-rings are badly worn out; I ignored that fact, fit the new brushed and assembled the alternator back. It worked until a couple of weeks ago, when it started failing... I took the alternator out and examined it. The slip-rings were grooved to the plastic, no more cooper. I searched the forums, they were talking about replacement parts. I have ordered and received the replacement slip-ring, but the show stopper was I need to pull a bearing out and did not have a puller. However, I bout 20cm heavy duty electric cable (the one used for wall sockets) that has three cooper strains of about 1mm thick for 0.5 Euro. I wrapped the copper strain tightly in the Slip-Ring groove and using a gas operated soldering iron (after removing the tip to utilize the direct thin flame), I soldered the wrapped cooper wire in position and filed it smooth, then reassembled every thing back. This is much cheaper than an expensive full replacement and has been working well since then. I wonder why the manufacturer did not create this part to be easily replaceable??. Having solved the problem this way, I think it is possible to create a heavier duty cooper ring measuring 1.25mm thick and 5mm wide with the length required to fill the groove (filing may be needed for perfect fit). I might attempt it next time. Simple.

For the benefit of all, my car had a strange behavior hunting at Idle and surging at low speed. This happens for a few days every around 400-500km. This is usually caused by the lower butterfly flap in the inlet manifold. I tried a spare MAF that I have and it seems to improve a little but does not solve the problem. I searched everywhere and checked everything, to no avail. Then,,,,, I came up with rather a good idea; I had a meter long plastic tube that I used to fill the Gear Fluid last year. I started the car for 30 seconds then switched it off. I placed one end of the tube at my ear and hovered over parts of the engine with the other end until I heard a faint hiss... The oil pipe was resting over the inlet manifold lower butterfly valve. Due to vibration, it rubbed the casing thin and caused a small hole, hence leakage. Cleaned it with solvent and covered it with high temperature epoxy and repositioned the oil pipe to avoid contact. Problem resolved.

I don't like going to the dealers; competence is suspect. They try many things and charge you for them before giving up.<br /><br />I actually know a thing or two in software and hardware (over 30 years in IT). I would still like to do it myself and would appreciate if someone can pass me the link.<br /><br />TIA, Simple.<br />

Hi, I will be changing the two (infamous) solenoids within the AL4 Gearbox on my 2003 Citroen C8 2.0 HDi. This requires the upgrade of the Gearbox's ECU Firmware into a newer version. I don't know if my current Firmware is compatible with the Borg-Warner solenoids or not. My current firmware details are: Supplier: Siemens PSA Reference: 8200302005 Software Reference: 9654868580 Supplier: 04 System: 92 Application: 08 Version: 1A Version: 1701 Message System Number: 00 I have a Lexia clone, I know if I have a dealers log-in access, I would be able to update all the firmware on my car, but I don't. How/Where can I download the various firmwares? Simple.

Having used all system-cleaning agents, changed filters/oils, reset ECU and even edited Firmware for performance and everything else I could think of or read about; but to no avail. I became convinced that the problem is much to do with timing, after I heard a very loud knocking noise when using EGR cleaner. I decided to take off the CAM belt cover and check the matter for myself. Special tools needed: 1- Mainly 10mm, 13mm and 16mm sockets. 2- A clear marker like white correction fluid. 3- A telescopic arm with a mirror at one end or a straightened wire hanger with a small mirror fixed to its end. 4- 2 L shaped (one side 20 cm and the other 4cm) 8mm rods (I used a threaded rod 7.8mm cut into two 30cm pieces and bent 24cm and 6cm at 90 degrees to use with the cam and 120 degrees for the flywheel. The process: 1- Remove the stabilization bar on top of the engine. 2- Jack up the front of the car, place it on secure stands and Remove the driver side wheel and the plastic arch. 3- Remove the serpentine belt. 4- Remove the two 10mm bolts and 10mm nut securing the cam sprocket cover, and remove the plastic cover to reveal the CAM sprocket. 5- Use a ratchet to rotate the CRANK pulley clockwise while trying to insert the shorter end of the L shaped tool into the flywheel through hole beside the starter motor. Please notice that tool will slide properly into one hole only. 6- Place a clear mark on the pulley and the pulley cover to identify the position. 7- Remove the L shaped tool securing the flywheel, Place the mirror such that you can see the position where the other L shaped tool needs to slide into CAM sprocket. Rotate the CRANK pulley clockwise until you see the cam sprocket opening and the hole are aligned (it is 4 o’clock on some engines and 8 o’clock on others). Notice that 2 CRANK rotations = 1 CAM rotation. 8- Place the other L shaped tool into the CAM sprocket to secure it. 9- With the CAM secured, check the markings on the CRANK pulley and cover. If they match, all is well and if not, then: a. The belt is loose and need tightening b. The belt is off by a notch c. You may have an adjustable CAM sprocket that may need adjustment In my case, I was overjoyed to see that the CAM and Flywheel securing positions did not match. My CAM belt was too loose and the CAM sprocket needed adjustment as the slippage was not quite a complete notch. The timing adjustment process: 1- Ensure the L shaped tool is properly inserted in the correct CAM sprocket position to secure it. 2- Loosen the three bolts securing the CAM sprocket, and relax the belt tensioner. 3- Rotate the CRANK until the markings on the pulley and the case match and secure the flywheel using the other L shaped tool. 4- Tighten the tensioner to the proper tension 5- Tighten the three bolts on the CAM sprocket. The pinking is gone and power has improved.

My C8 (2.0 HDi, 109 PS, Auto) produces a faint pitting noise (similar to advanced timing or low octane in petrol engine) when acceleration gently between 50 - 70 mph, It does not produce the noise if accelerating hard. The clock has 116,000 miles now and I changed the cam belt 20,000 miles ago, after which I thought (just a feeling) the engine power was not optimum. Could the pitting noise be a starting problem in the injectors or is it related to engine timing? and how to diagnose it. I know how to check and adjust timing in petro engines using stroboscope, but how to check and ensure optimum engine timing in diesel engines? Also, the car produces occasional transmission fault on misty days; when the temperature is around 5 degrees Celsius, and when the engine is not fully warmed up. switching off and back on removes the fault and the car drives normally. Any suggestions? Regards, Simple

Thanks Paul.

OK, no replies!! However, I found the problem. It is not that the cable needing adjustment. It is that the cable is worn out near the tire (due to coming in contact with it) which led to dirt leaking inside and restricting the movement of the cable, due to rust and dirt and possibly cut wires inside the cable. In short, a cable replacement is needed. Any recommendations for online cheaper parts source??