Clutch Change C5

[cwrtcoed]

Hi

My son in law had a problem with his clutch, he has a c5 2002 2.0hdi 110. He towed a friends car bmw 120d for around 35miles, nearer to our destination I could smell clutch burning, and it started slipping. however, he let it cool down for a few hours and it worked ok. He then phoned me the other day to say that he can put the car in any gear and the car will not move even with the clutch pedal up. I took the plastic cap near to the clutch cylinder I can see the clutch bearing pulling on the plate, but the car still wont move in gear. Does this model have the DMF, how difficult is it to change the clutch on these cars, the nearest French clutch I have changed was on a Peugeot 206. I haven't looked at it properly yet, but does the clutch cylinder come off easy, and are there any diagrams on here that show how to remove the gearbox and clutch?

 

re

rich  

[Johndouglas]

Quote:--- he can put the car in any gear and the car will not move even with the clutch pedal up

 

Is that with the engine running?         Best thing to do would be to get hold of a Haynes manual

[cwrtcoed]

Yes that's with the engine running, just thought that sometimes members put a step by step guide with pics on how to change the clutch, any common problems or tips etc

[paul.h]

If you put the car reg in the eurocarparts website it will list the clutch parts and if it has a dmf. There was an article in Car Mechanics on clutch replacement on a C5, may have been a 2.2 hdi with a dmf, and it seemed a big job.

 

If you look at the towing limit for the car on its V5C, you may find the BMW was above the cars limit and may have been illegal.

[paul.h]

A quick look on the eurocarparts site, without your car reg, shows you may be able to get a clutch and dmf for a bit over £300 due to some special offers. If you decide to use eurocarparts, I have found that if you just go to their local branch the prices can be different to/more than the website, so a phone call may be worthwhile to check prices and if necessary use the site to click and collect.

 

It is too late now, but the RAC will do recovery if you are not a member, or it is outside their conditions such as a crash recovery, and a couple of years ago it was about £75. Probably more though to cover 35 miles but less than the clutch replacement - hopefully the friend may chip in.

[coastline taxis]

Is it a 90 or a 110 bhp

[cwrtcoed]

Its the 110bhp, ive managed to remove most of the stuff off the engine area ready to break the box from the block, however, im finding it hard to split the longest drive shaft ( drivers side) from the diff. Ive slackened the two small bolts where the centre bearing is and two other bolts nearer to the diff, but it still wont budge, any ideas?

[Johndouglas]

Thinking back to when we had a couple of Pug 205s, the centre bearing needed a few taps to help it from the housing.

[cwrtcoed]

yep done that, the shaft is out, any tips on breaking the clutch housing from the engine block

[paul.h]

I hope you have managed to finish this job by now without too much bother and unless you have a nice heated garage it is not the best time of year for working on a car. By the lack of replies you may be one of few (if any) members to do a C5 clutch change. If you have time, would you mind posting a few lines on how you got on and anything unusual that cropped up ?

[cwrtcoed]

Hi

I managed to split the box from the block by putting some bars between the bell housing and block using brut force to remove it, you need to more or less snap the thrust bearing or pressure plate prongs. Clutch plate is in but the only thing I'm stuck with at the moment is to fit the new thrust bearing, does the fork shaft need to come out ( hydraulic clutch type) if so it's bloody hard and appears stuck, any ideas?? I also noticed when you tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel the pressure plate prongs push outward towards you!! Is that correct never done the pull type clutch before?

Re

Rich

[paul.h]

This is copied from the Haynes manual, it does not mention the bearing in these paragraphs but does on the ones for the push type mechanism:

 

Pull type release mechanism.

4. Access to the inner end of the release fork shaft is not possible, and the shaft must be pulled or levered out from the outside of the bellhousing. A slide hammer may be attached to the groove in the end of the shaft, or alternatively a lever may be used taking care not to damage the transmission casing. (a photo shows a pry bar levering the shaft out using the groove on its outside and against the casing).

5. With the shaft removed, withdraw the release fork from the bellhousing, noting which way round it is fitted.

 

Refitting

Pull type release mechanism.

11. Apply a smear of molybdenum disulphide grease to the shaft and contact  surfaces of the release fork.

12. Insert the shaft through the transmission casing then locate the release fork inside the bellhousing and insert the shaft through it into the inner location hole. Make sure that the slave cylinder contact point is facing the correct direction.

13. Using a soft metal drift, drive the shaft fully into the casing, taking care not to damage the inner blind hole.

 

Haynes mentions that some cars have an unusual self adjusting pressure plate which needs pre adjusting (if not already supplied like this). This involves using a vice, large bolt and large diameter washers to fit the prongs, pushing the plate down on them, tightening the bolt and then to turn the plate's internal adjuster disc so 3 small springs on the plate's outer surface (below the prongs) are fully compressed. If you have one of these just check the small springs are fully compressed so this procedure is not needed.

 

If it helps, within this post there is a link to pages from the C5 Haynes manual. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20815-front-brake-pad-and-disc-replacement/