C5 2.2Hdi 2002 Estate Dpf/eolys Questions

[GSA]

I would welcome advice about my dpf and eolys on my ageing C5

 

Just over 3 years ago I was advised to "replace additive and reprogramme" @ ~85,000 miles

I was advised that there was a "cap sensor fault" (P1435) which meant that I would get a "low additive" warning, but was told this was OK provided either I did not get filter warnings or if I did that the message cleared by giving the car a good run.

 

Since then my usage of the car has changed from regular long runs to many short runs and rarer longer runs and the car has now reached 91,000 miles. This usage pattern meant I would get "clean filter warnings", and would then take the car out for a 10-15 mile run down the dual carriageway (I am guessing every few hundred miles). This tended to clear the message until recently, when the car started to drop into limp home mode. Sometimes a long run (20 miles) cleared this. However, my local independent garage last time on advice had to do a forced regen (which was as alarming as described elsewhere on this forum).

 

Thinking it might be time to sell, I enquired about getting the sensor replaced so that it would not give the "low additive" warning message. The "local" dealer said they would have to do a diagnostic (at cost) to determine exactly what sensor was required. This showed that there was only 1gm of additive left (P1446). I find 1 gm of a 5 litre refill a confusing mix of units!

 

They checked for any obvious leaks (none). Other "temporary faults" presumably consequent to the additive level fault include

- Cooling function incorporated into ECU. Consistency between fan unit speed and setting

- Catalytic converter downstream temperature signal (cat 2). Short circuit to + or open circuit

- Dust filter (FAP). Particle filter overloaded

 

1) Discussing possible reasons for the (to me) rapid consumption of the additive, it was suggested that regenerating "by good runs down the dual carriageway" only lowered the soot content by a small amount but might use a lot of additive. Does that make sense? I suspect that the forced regen may have used a fair bit.

 

2) Is the usage excessive?

 

3) The diagnostic indicated that the car had done 12km since the last regeneration (on the way to the dealer), and that the average distance between the last 5 regenerations was 868km. This would tend to indicate that "good runs down the dual carriageway" did not count as far as the diagnostics were concerned.

 

4) The "obvious" thing to do is refill. Where do I find the correct specification for the fluid and does this have to be done by a dealer, or can it be done by an independent with third party diagnostic equipment to "reprogram" "it"? My C5 Haynes manual does not indicate how this is done. Presumably the plastic "porthole" under the rear seat gives access?

 

5) Elsewhere on this forum I have seen reference to the possible need for the additive ecu to be replaced on "early models". If you don't you get a warning message (what message?), but that the message does not matter. Presumably 2002 (September) counts as "early"?

 

Any pointers would be most welcome. This car should not be so old that it is facing the scrap yard, but my current usage pattern is not doing it much good.

 

Thanks

 

[Randombloke]

As I understand it, (had a 2.2 of the same age for a while), the regen does not take place on good runs but at a light load between 40 and 50 mph.

 

The DPF should be replaced on that vehicle at 75,000 miles. Was it done?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rookie2]

You can fill the pat eolys yourself, there is no great skill involved just a little patience waiting for the fluid to fill the tank. You cab buy the filling kit with the fluid (EOLYS). Do NOT, repeat NOT get the fluid on you or your skin, it is carcenogenic so just use a bit of common sense.

 

You have PM.

[GSA]

Randombloke: "The DPF should be replaced on that vehicle at 75,000 miles. Was it done?"

 

Thanks, Randombloke I don't think so - there is no charge on any of my maintenance invoices for a new dpf.

 

The Manufacturer's "Maintenance and Guarantee Guide" only lists "Clean particle filter and check Eolys fluid level" with an indication that it should be done every 50,000 miles, no mention of "replace". I would expect that "cleaning" was done as part of the 4th service (@ 49,345 miles) or the 5th service (@ 62,172 miles). I guess the fluid check is via reading the diagnostics. Might dealers decide whether the particle filter needs cleaning by reading the clogging diagnostics (P1448?).

 

A precautionary "clean" sounds as if it might be a good idea. From elsewhere on the forum it sounds as if you take it off and basically pressure wash it?

Edited April 16, 2017 by GSA

[GSA]

You can fill the pat eolys yourself, there is no great skill involved just a little patience waiting for the fluid to fill the tank. You cab buy the filling kit with the fluid (EOLYS). Do NOT, repeat NOT get the fluid on you or your skin, it is carcenogenic so just use a bit of common sense.

 

You have PM.

 

Thanks for the warning about the fluid.

 

Refilling is the sort of thing that I might do myself if I was confident about the specification of the fluid and the filling kit (I see mention of different coloured caps) I need and if I had a workshop manual describing how to do it (I somehow doubt that the fluid comes with vehicle specific instructions). However, I believe that once filled you need to reprogram the system (?) - it is probably cheaper to risk a long drive back to the dealer than buy diagnostic equipment.

 

PM received - given this is the first time I have had "problems" my initial inclination is to do a "clean the filter and refill eolys" operation in case dealer servicing have not done it.

[paul.h]

You need the cap sensor fault fixing since this tells the car you have filled up with diesel and then some eolys fluid is injected in to the fuel tank. Just filling up the fluid without fixing this is a waste of time.

 

The filler cap has 2 magnets in it, make sure these are present by checking with a steel screwdriver or something else. The cap needs to be removed and the magnets can be seen opposite each other if the cap is upside down. The magnets are then detected by a switch inside the rear wing at the top of the filler neck when the cap is put back - it could be this switch needs replacing or there is a problem with its wiring/connector.

 

If you water jet the filter, if it does not get clean enough you can also try oven cleaner in it since this removes carbon, and then flush it again.

 

You dealer will sell you the correct fluid if you are not sure about it. PVC gloves are usually good enough to protect against most chemicals but you should be able to get a material safety data sheet from the internet that will give any other specific requirements. Eye protection is usually goggles or safety glasses.

[Routemaster1]

Please be aware that there are several different types of fluid. Some are compatible when mixed, but not all are, so ensure you get the correct type.

[aspire_helen]

Eolys additive  is available on ebay as DPX42 in either 1 ltr or 4.5ltr. Eolys is added when you top up diesel at a dosage of 37.5ml per 60litres. Removing the filler cap alerts computer to measure the amount of diesel added and run the additive pump for the number of seconds necessary to add the appropriate dose. If the diesel gauge does not detect any fuel added, it wont add additive.  Hence,  the additive is in every bit of fuel injected into the engine but is only utilised during DPF regeneration.  There is no gauge level in the additive tank. The car computes when the tank needs topping up solely by approximating the amount of diesel has been consumed. When additive is topped up the car ECU needs to be updated with how much via a diagnostics unit.

 

The DPF filter is not "cleaned" but exchanged for a re-conditioned one. Or buy a new one.  There are two types available of differing quality. The more expensive (£400?) has a ceramic core which is a more effective filter. The cheaper (£150?) has a cheaper material as its core.  The Citroen OEM is the expensive one.  It permits greater airflow and is hence better for new and performance cars.  For the average older engine, the cheaper one is recommended.  Alternatively, supposing you can remove it yourself, just jet wash the filter in the opposite direction to the exhaust, until the water runs clear, and fully dry before refit.

 

On another of my post you will find that my additive ECU failed and does not appear to have added any additive for 1000s miles. I got no warnings. My car has driven 166,000miles in 16years. I have replaced the DPF only once at 75,000miles and did not have the ECU updated.  I know add the Eolys directly to the tank when I fill up the diesel (no more difficult than adding Redex etc).  Only have I had a DPF filter warning, a few years ago, but I successfully cleared that at the second attempt by the usual 50mph down a motorway.

 

These additive systems appear unnecessarily complex!!

Helen