Guest gs fan Posted October 6, 2008 Posted October 6, 2008 When I first got my C5 2.0 HDI ( Manual box ) after a few months running I went to change down from 5th to 4th and it jammed , put it back to 5th and it worked on the next attempt , on the long drive I had on the night it got worse from 4th to 3rd it would stick then next time it was fine. Next day it was smooth as silk by the end of the week it had started this again . Took it to the dealer and they were at a loss to explain it ( surprise!!) the cables were free , i thought they were ok myself as the lever would move through the changes when stationary with ease . They said I'd have to let it develope . I took it back after suffering problems over the next two weeks and suggested to them that an oil change might be worth a try . Well that cured it , it was fine . That was more than a year ago and I,ve had no problems since , untill now . The problem is different though , I find it hard the select first especially when starting from cold , once its warmed up it's better but not so good as it was . The strange thing is if i depress the clutch before starting i can select first no problem , the same if i pull up at traffic lights , if i put it in neutral and lift the clutch it can be a bit sticky to engage first gear , but it i keep the clutch down i can go between neutral and first no problem . It's easy enough to go from 2nd to 1st on the move , and the clutch feels fine , no judder or slip and it bites at the same point as it always did , the cables are free , so i,m baffled !!!As I,ve had answers to qureies on this forum many times , I wondered if anyone can help to suggest what may be the problem this time . thanks , Jack... Quote
coastline taxis Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 When I first got my C5 2.0 HDI ( Manual box ) after a few months running I went to change down from 5th to 4th and it jammed , put it back to 5th and it worked on the next attempt , on the long drive I had on the night it got worse from 4th to 3rd it would stick then next time it was fine. Next day it was smooth as silk by the end of the week it had started this again . Took it to the dealer and they were at a loss to explain it ( surprise!!) the cables were free , i thought they were ok myself as the lever would move through the changes when stationary with ease . They said I'd have to let it develope . I took it back after suffering problems over the next two weeks and suggested to them that an oil change might be worth a try . Well that cured it , it was fine . That was more than a year ago and I,ve had no problems since , untill now . The problem is different though , I find it hard the select first especially when starting from cold , once its warmed up it's better but not so good as it was . The strange thing is if i depress the clutch before starting i can select first no problem , the same if i pull up at traffic lights , if i put it in neutral and lift the clutch it can be a bit sticky to engage first gear , but it i keep the clutch down i can go between neutral and first no problem . It's easy enough to go from 2nd to 1st on the move , and the clutch feels fine , no judder or slip and it bites at the same point as it always did , the cables are free , so i,m baffled !!!As I,ve had answers to qureies on this forum many times , I wondered if anyone can help to suggest what may be the problem this time . thanks , Jack...Slightly confused hear you say if you put it in nuetral and lift the clutch it wont go into gear and if you keep the clutch pressed down you can get the gears fine/ Isnt that what its supposed to do. Il take it you mean the other way round and id start by doing the following1 Get the oil changed again2 Disconect the cables from the box and see if lever works freely3 Check the gear linkage on the box and see if it works freely4 Change clutch fluid as it only has a 2 year lifespan5 Check clutch master cylinder6 Check clutch slave cylinder7 lat resort only pull the box out check the clutch/pressure plate and gear selectors in the box Quote
Guest gs fan Posted October 7, 2008 Posted October 7, 2008 Slightly confused hear you say if you put it in nuetral and lift the clutch it wont go into gear and if you keep the clutch pressed down you can get the gears fine/ Isnt that what its supposed to do. Il take it you mean the other way round and id start by doing the following1 Get the oil changed again2 Disconect the cables from the box and see if lever works freely3 Check the gear linkage on the box and see if it works freely4 Change clutch fluid as it only has a 2 year lifespan5 Check clutch master cylinder6 Check clutch slave cylinder7 lat resort only pull the box out check the clutch/pressure plate and gear selectors in the boxSorry to have confused you , what I really meant was if I start the car with the cluch down I can engage first no problem . but if i start it then depress the clutch it's hard to push in .Thanks for the above advice.I don't think i'd like to tackle any of the above apart from oil change ( i know how to that thanks to this forum)Where would you say i'd be best to go to have points 2 to 6 checked ?? Dealer or indy ??Hopefully the cure is one of these points as point 7 sounds expensive .Cheers , Jack. Quote
coastline taxis Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Sorry to have confused you , what I really meant was if I start the car with the cluch down I can engage first no problem . but if i start it then depress the clutch it's hard to push in .Thanks for the above advice.I don't think i'd like to tackle any of the above apart from oil change ( i know how to that thanks to this forum)Where would you say i'd be best to go to have points 2 to 6 checked ?? Dealer or indy ??Hopefully the cure is one of these points as point 7 sounds expensive .Cheers , Jack.Checking the lever and linkage is realy easy.When you change your oil youl fill it up via the top of the box if you look just a few inches further back youl see 2 thick cables going to your box the conectors look like a circle just press the center of the circle down and pull the outer of the circle up and its now diconected do this to both cables then go inside of the car and see if the gear lever move freely side to side and back and forth. Now the nipple on the box (the bits that the cables were on ) get hold of them and see if you can move them around you should be able to hear the gears getting selected. It wont hurt to spray it all with wd40 either. To conect the cable back up push the center down again and place back on the nipples its impossible to put the cables back on the wrong way and it is really easy to check.lets know how you come on Quote
Guest gs fan Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Checking the lever and linkage is realy easy.When you change your oil youl fill it up via the top of the box if you look just a few inches further back youl see 2 thick cables going to your box the conectors look like a circle just press the center of the circle down and pull the outer of the circle up and its now diconected do this to both cables then go inside of the car and see if the gear lever move freely side to side and back and forth. Now the nipple on the box (the bits that the cables were on ) get hold of them and see if you can move them around you should be able to hear the gears getting selected. It wont hurt to spray it all with wd40 either. To conect the cable back up push the center down again and place back on the nipples its impossible to put the cables back on the wrong way and it is really easy to check.lets know how you come onManaged to follow your instuctions fine thanks . Took the air filter assembly out first , that was an easy job and gave me great access to the top of the box , unclipped the cables , moved the gear leaver around ,feels very free . Got a hold of the leaver on the top of the box and they seem easy to move , I did give them a good spray with WD40 before re-connecting the cables. Put the air cleaner back on and tried it , still a bit stiff to get first , but at least I know the cables are ok and I assume the selectors are ok ??.I'll get some oil on Friday ( the right stuff from the Dealer ) and change the oil next . One other thing I've noticed .. When starting off normally , push the clutch down , push the leaver to first , the car moves forward slightly as it goes into gear , any ideas on why that would happen??Thanks again for assistance , I'm getting to know my old C5 thanks to you..Jack. Quote
mlkey Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 Managed to follow your instuctions fine thanks . Took the air filter assembly out first , that was an easy job and gave me great access to the top of the box , unclipped the cables , moved the gear leaver around ,feels very free . Got a hold of the leaver on the top of the box and they seem easy to move , I did give them a good spray with WD40 before re-connecting the cables. Put the air cleaner back on and tried it , still a bit stiff to get first , but at least I know the cables are ok and I assume the selectors are ok ??.I'll get some oil on Friday ( the right stuff from the Dealer ) and change the oil next . One other thing I've noticed .. When starting off normally , push the clutch down , push the leaver to first , the car moves forward slightly as it goes into gear , any ideas on why that would happen??Thanks again for assistance , I'm getting to know my old C5 thanks to you..Jack. I had similar problems.. Mine was a noisey gearbox and hard to engage when cold. Change the oil. 5/16 square drive to drain, refill via the breather. Do it when you have been on a run so the oil is nice and thin. It is worth measuring how much comes out, it should be 2 litres, in my case it was 1.2 litres. I also added a gearbox treatment (many available from Halfords). Now things are much better, Still a little tight when cold, but eases within a minute or so.I am beginning to think it is clutch drag on mine, but just like you, if I engage the 1st or reverse before starting, all is fine. Quote
Johndouglas Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 One other thing I've noticed .. When starting off normally , push the clutch down , push the leaver to first , the car moves forward slightly as it goes into gear , any ideas on why that would happen?? The clutch isn't fully releasing. Quote
paul.h Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 GS fan,I would continue through Coastline's list, next is to bleed the clutch master/slave cylinder since if there is air in them the clutch will not fully disengage (hence creaping forward and possibly poor gearchange). A pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder may be needed for this. If this fails to help then the master or slave cylinder may be worn. How many miles has the car done and when was it registered ? Quote
Guest gs fan Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 (edited) GS fan,I would continue through Coastline's list, next is to bleed the clutch master/slave cylinder since if there is air in them the clutch will not fully disengage (hence creaping forward and possibly poor gearchange). A pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder may be needed for this. If this fails to help then the master or slave cylinder may be worn. How many miles has the car done and when was it registered ?Thanks , I'm working through the list , next is oil change on Frday , but I think I agree with most who have answered that the clutch is chief suspect . I intend to have it checked by the dealer in Dumfries who is very helpfull , might just be something simple like fluid or cylinder .... the clutch feels ok apart from the niggles when cold. its's 51 reg with 74,000 on the clock Edited October 9, 2008 by gs fan Quote
Guest gs fan Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 The clutch isn't fully releasing.I reckon your right... Going to have it ckecked . Quote
Guest gs fan Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 I had similar problems.. Mine was a noisey gearbox and hard to engage when cold. Change the oil. 5/16 square drive to drain, refill via the breather. Do it when you have been on a run so the oil is nice and thin. It is worth measuring how much comes out, it should be 2 litres, in my case it was 1.2 litres. I also added a gearbox treatment (many available from Halfords). Now things are much better, Still a little tight when cold, but eases within a minute or so.I am beginning to think it is clutch drag on mine, but just like you, if I engage the 1st or reverse before starting, all is fine.Sounds like the very same problem, I think I'll have my fluid and cyliners checked ,as this is beyond my skills I'll take it to the local dealer , who unlike many is very helpfull. Quote
coastline taxis Posted October 10, 2008 Posted October 10, 2008 Sounds like the very same problem, I think I'll have my fluid and cyliners checked ,as this is beyond my skills I'll take it to the local dealer , who unlike many is very helpfull.Hi to be honest it sounds like either the springs on the diaphram or just wear on the clutch plate. Sorry but both mean the gearbox has got to come out mind it does seem odd for either of them to go at such low milage as weve been doing citroen for 4 years now and regulary see clutches doing well over a 150k. if you do have to change the clutch pay a extra 30 quid (for the parts) and replace the nose cone and fulcrum arm. next time you get in the car start it up in nuetral then pump the clutch pedal 3 or 4 times then see how it goes into gear and you should get one of the following1 its harder or impossible to get it into gear = Your fluid is shagged and by pumping the pedal youve airiated the fluid.2 it goes into gear no problem = youve got air in your system and needs bleeding.3 it stays the same = then its one of the faults mentioned above best regard steve Quote
Guest gs fan Posted October 12, 2008 Posted October 12, 2008 Hi to be honest it sounds like either the springs on the diaphram or just wear on the clutch plate. Sorry but both mean the gearbox has got to come out mind it does seem odd for either of them to go at such low milage as weve been doing citroen for 4 years now and regulary see clutches doing well over a 150k. if you do have to change the clutch pay a extra 30 quid (for the parts) and replace the nose cone and fulcrum arm. next time you get in the car start it up in nuetral then pump the clutch pedal 3 or 4 times then see how it goes into gear and you should get one of the following1 its harder or impossible to get it into gear = Your fluid is shagged and by pumping the pedal youve airiated the fluid.2 it goes into gear no problem = youve got air in your system and needs bleeding.3 it stays the same = then its one of the faults mentioned above best regard steveI changed the G/Box oil on Friday and that has made things a little better . Then I got your post above , so I've just been out and tried it , i,m sure pumping the pedal makes it better , it certainly doesn't make it worse . I intend to take it in soon for a brake /clutch fluid change as I think this will be a good place to start . Will let you know if this cures the fault . If it does need a clutch what sort of cost is involved ?Thanks as always for your help .Jack. Quote
coastline taxis Posted October 12, 2008 Posted October 12, 2008 I changed the G/Box oil on Friday and that has made things a little better . Then I got your post above , so I've just been out and tried it , i,m sure pumping the pedal makes it better , it certainly doesn't make it worse . I intend to take it in soon for a brake /clutch fluid change as I think this will be a good place to start . Will let you know if this cures the fault . If it does need a clutch what sort of cost is involved ?Thanks as always for your help .Jack.Weve only ever done 3 of them and that was in the last 6 months. we charge 180 plus parts and oil and there not a bad box to do either as you can slide the box back into the subframe normally 3 to 4 hours with 2 on the job. garages will no doubt tell you that the box has to come out of the car but it dosent.F the pedal is easier after pumping the pedal then that would indicate air in the system but changing the fluid is the right thing to dobest regards steve Quote
Guest gs fan Posted October 17, 2008 Posted October 17, 2008 Weve only ever done 3 of them and that was in the last 6 months. we charge 180 plus parts and oil and there not a bad box to do either as you can slide the box back into the subframe normally 3 to 4 hours with 2 on the job. garages will no doubt tell you that the box has to come out of the car but it dosent.F the pedal is easier after pumping the pedal then that would indicate air in the system but changing the fluid is the right thing to dobest regards steveI'm just in from having a few jars so if this is full of mistakes that's the reason.Managed today to work through the list , the dealer changed the fluid and bled rhe system.He said by the feel of the clutch it did not seem to have air in the system , but carried out my request and it feels so much better.Just thought i'd let ya know and say thanks for the help !!!Interested in the fact that you say you replace clutches , if it ever needs one would you do it ??Thanks again .Jack. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.