Remap C5 Vtr 2.2

[Guest timboo]

Hi I currently own a Citroen C5 VTR 2.2 on 2004 plate. I looking to try and save some money on fuel. I live in the manchester area and looking to improve fuel consumption can anyone help/recommend anyone? or even tell me whether it is worth it and also if i will gain any performance to?

To be honest I do not know where to start.

 

many thanks

 

Timbo

[Guest digitalinkjetman]

Let me know because I want mine done too.....

[Randombloke]

Hi I currently own a Citroen C5 VTR 2.2 on 2004 plate. I looking to try and save some money on fuel.

 

Jack up the car and check the drag on the front brakes. It's possible to get this to be almost as little as the rear brakes. This makes an enormous amount of difference to fuel economy. It can also cost almost nothing.

 

You may need the piston tool to wind the pistons back to get the calipers back over the pads.

 

I have made sure that my front brakes are as light as possible on drag and have been rewarded by another 5 mpg. Also, make sure that the anti rattle springs are not making the pads jam slightly - they need to be only strong enough to stop the pads moving in the holders, no more, IMV.

 

If you want to re-map some people here have used Superchips. Personally I'd worry about gearbox and clutch life. Maybe do a search on Superchips.

[paul.h]

What fuel consumption are you getting and type of driving ? Our 2.2 hdi VTR hatchback mark 1 2004 C5 is used mainly for long distance motorway journies and has given anything between 45 to 61 mpg depending on speed/hills/wind direction/rain but generally going a bit slower improves the mpg.

[Guest timboo]

What fuel consumption are you getting and type of driving ? Our 2.2 hdi VTR hatchback mark 1 2004 C5 is used mainly for long distance motorway journies and has given anything between 45 to 61 mpg depending on speed/hills/wind direction/rain but generally going a bit slower improves the mpg.

 

 

45-61 mpg...............................

 

omg mine only does round town 36mpg max and that is driving like a nissan micra.... on motorway stick to 70 42mpg....... something seriously no good then lol

 

What tyre pressure you using? I use the ones on the door...

[Guest timboo]

Jack up the car and check the drag on the front brakes. It's possible to get this to be almost as little as the rear brakes. This makes an enormous amount of difference to fuel economy. It can also cost almost nothing.

 

You may need the piston tool to wind the pistons back to get the calipers back over the pads.

 

I have made sure that my front brakes are as light as possible on drag and have been rewarded by another 5 mpg. Also, make sure that the anti rattle springs are not making the pads jam slightly - they need to be only strong enough to stop the pads moving in the holders, no more, IMV.

 

If you want to re-map some people here have used Superchips. Personally I'd worry about gearbox and clutch life. Maybe do a search on Superchips.

 

 

 

thanks for the info... i changed the brakes myself and wound them out with the tool big style. I can hear a squeal from one disk... not got a clue which one the rear padss are a nightmare as you need to split the caliper an blead the system.

 

hmmmmm you all got me thinking now why i not getting many mpg

[paul.h]

The brake squeal is most likely from the rear. Corrosion occurs between the caliper and the axle arm due to dissimilar metals and this pushes the caliper out. The corrosion needs removing every couple of years and the contact area between greasing. Some have had the caliper move as far as the wheel so it has touched. There is a pinned post how to sort this and I did a later post. It can be done without disconnecting the brake pipe and definitely do not split the caliper - remove only one caliper mounting bolt at a time by turning and levering with the other in place and the pad cover bolt in place, then drill out the loctite (if yours has it and this is the first time it has been done), once both mounting bolt holes have been loctite freed remove both the bolts but not the cover bolt and the caliper can be moved away from the axle arm to allow the contact surfaces to be cleaned up with a file and greased. I think Coastline has mentioned putting a bit of polythene in the gap so the metals do not touch.

 

I keep the tyres at about 36 psig as per the door post label. Note the 45 to 61 mpg is a range I have mostly from M62 trips to/from Warrington to Hull, normally hope to get 50 to 53 but with 45 at 70ish mph and into the wind/rain. The hills seem to knock the fuel consumption back a lot so I try not to accelerate too hard up them. The recent higher values have been due to the roadworks around Leeds and their 50 mph limits and also keeping to about 65 mph (about 10% less mph gives about 10% more mpg but adds about 5 to 10 mins to the trip each way). The 61 mpg was when I inadvertantly put in a couple of gallons of Shell V power diesel on top of a similar amount of Sainsburys best - the increase in mpg (if from the fuel) just about paid for the fuel £1.25 vs normal £1.18 per litre.

[Randombloke]

45-61 mpg...............................

 

omg mine only does round town 36mpg max and that is driving like a nissan micra.... on motorway stick to 70 42mpg....... something seriously no good then lol

 

What tyre pressure you using? I use the ones on the door...

 

Mine has 215/55 16 tyres and I use 2.5 bar all round except when out with a load where I run the rears up to 3.0 and fronts up to 2.7 bar.

 

I get high 30s to low 40s if town driving is involved, and up to 45 on runs where I stay below 75mph on the French motorways.

 

Staying below 65 mph makes a big difference, and a mixture of 50 to 60mph will improve things even further.

 

I've now done about 2,000 miles since the last pad change and will check the drag again soon.

[Johndouglas]

a mixture of 50 to 60mph will improve things even further.

 

 

Yes - I agree with this. I experimented one day when I was doing a drive down to Dover and had bags of time. I put the cruise on at 55mph and travelled for 75 miles. The computer showed I'd got 57mpg. Had I travelled at the usual 70 I'd have got 46 or so. The slower speed took 15 minutes longer but took around 2 quid less in fuel.

[Guest timboo]

Yes - I agree with this. I experimented one day when I was doing a drive down to Dover and had bags of time. I put the cruise on at 55mph and travelled for 75 miles. The computer showed I'd got 57mpg. Had I travelled at the usual 70 I'd have got 46 or so. The slower speed took 15 minutes longer but took around 2 quid less in fuel.

 

 

cheers for the posts. Glad that most of your figures were based around speed. You all had me worried for a minute then thinking something drastic was up with my car. Guess I'll have to drive slower then :-)

 

C5 is a rare breed i was amazed when I realised the handbrake cable was on the front lol.

[Guest timboo]

The brake squeal is most likely from the rear. Corrosion occurs between the caliper and the axle arm due to dissimilar metals and this pushes the caliper out. The corrosion needs removing every couple of years and the contact area between greasing. Some have had the caliper move as far as the wheel so it has touched. There is a pinned post how to sort this and I did a later post. It can be done without disconnecting the brake pipe and definitely do not split the caliper - remove only one caliper mounting bolt at a time by turning and levering with the other in place and the pad cover bolt in place, then drill out the loctite (if yours has it and this is the first time it has been done), once both mounting bolt holes have been loctite freed remove both the bolts but not the cover bolt and the caliper can be moved away from the axle arm to allow the contact surfaces to be cleaned up with a file and greased. I think Coastline has mentioned putting a bit of polythene in the gap so the metals do not touch.

 

I keep the tyres at about 36 psig as per the door post label. Note the 45 to 61 mpg is a range I have mostly from M62 trips to/from Warrington to Hull, normally hope to get 50 to 53 but with 45 at 70ish mph and into the wind/rain. The hills seem to knock the fuel consumption back a lot so I try not to accelerate too hard up them. The recent higher values have been due to the roadworks around Leeds and their 50 mph limits and also keeping to about 65 mph (about 10% less mph gives about 10% more mpg but adds about 5 to 10 mins to the trip each way). The 61 mpg was when I inadvertantly put in a couple of gallons of Shell V power diesel on top of a similar amount of Sainsburys best - the increase in mpg (if from the fuel) just about paid for the fuel £1.25 vs normal £1.18 per litre.

 

 

 

Have you by any chance got the link to how you managed to do the rear caliper in the way described above? and for the removal of the corrosion?

 

many thanks

[Guest timboo]

just found your post about the calipers thanks

[paul.h]

Probably also worth checking the air filter is clean - it is a 40k mile service interval which is a bit high. I think I have also read on here that when the exhaust particle filter is due for replacing (about 75k miles) this increases fuel consumption.

[Guest timboo]

Probably also worth checking the air filter is clean - it is a 40k mile service interval which is a bit high. I think I have also read on here that when the exhaust particle filter is due for replacing (about 75k miles) this increases fuel consumption.

 

cheers for that one quick quewstion i never heard of the exhaust particle filter stupid question where is it and is it hard to change i.e do it myself?

 

thanks

[Guest c5vtr]

 

loads of posts on this forum about the particulate filter, don't envy u that one.

 

But can i just add i had poor economy on a 2.0 hdi vtr and the mechanic thought it may have been a clogged injector. He recommended using Millars (£12) with every fill up of no more than £25 worth, and after a couple of weeks fuel economy had increased from something like 32mpg to up over 40. Stopped using the millars when the bottle was done which was some time ago and my urban combined is regularly around 42 - 45 ish with up to 50 - 60 mpg on longer runs....don't want to confuse u by offering too much advise but that was my experience.

 

good luck

[Guest qman3428]

The original question was about mapping the engine, I can recommend Bobs Diesels ( do a google search) he tuned my Toyota avensis with a plug in box and I got 175 bhp and 50 to the gallon ( I tried it at 200bhp but it felt fragile so I backed it off). I now have a C5 Mk2 exclusive, with the auto gear box, tuned to 178 bhp with a K&N air filter, still gives 40mpg despite an enthusiastic driving style. It should not cause clutch problems or reiability issues but you will wear our brakes and tyres quicker. :rolleyes: