Antipollution/ Esp-asr Fault

[Guest phil.d]

Hello to everyone , just joined so thought I'd kill 2 birds with 1 stone etc. Ok , Of course this topic has been discussed many times and sussed the antipollution message could mean anything . Got the car booked in Friday to do clean the fap but I think I'm barking up the wrong tree as The display would say it was blocked etc. I've also had the dpx42 filled and regenerated. When the warning messages and mil come on it of course goes into limp mode but turn the ignition off and on and the esp/asr go out and full power restored. However the mil light stays on etc but will eventually go out and hey presto no problems ( Not ).Soooooo If its saying esp etc then its to do with the brakes ? , with the faults other members have been diagnosed with , mostly its nowt to do with the brakes , very confusing . Am I best getting a diagnostic done to read the fault code which should narrow down the problem . Btw its a 2003 2.2 estate with the obligotory non working tailgate window.

 

Thanks in advance.

Phil.

[72dudes]

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[72dudes]

Oh dear, a common problem on the 2.2HDi.

 

No, nothing to do with the brakes or Electronic Stability Control.

 

Start with the various sensors: Vac solenoid, turbo pressure switch, boost regulator, pressure regulator which runs to the particulate filter. These cost around £30 - £40 each, so not massive money.

 

Other culprits could be split/leaking vaccuum hose, swirl chamber valve, egr valve.

 

A good Citroen indy should be able to diagnose better, otherwise a main dealer has all the kit necessary.

 

Good luck, my 2.2HDi did this off and on for 3 years. I had all the sensors changed, hoses checked etc. No better.

 

Mine was traced to "probably" being a dodgy ECU, so I traded it in after spending about £460 and getting nowhere!

[Guest phil.d]

Quick update on the car . Been in the garage today and came up with a code , something to do with the boost on the turbo . Anyhow ,noticed the other night a botch up job from previous owner . Theres a rod coming from the back of the engine to the top rhs looking at the front of the car . The ' cup ' that fits onto a small ball had broken and had been secured using cable ties. This is why apparantly the apl / esp messages come up . Will be getting it sorted next week so I'll see how it goes .

[Randombloke]

Theres a rod coming from the back of the engine to the top rhs looking at the front of the car . The ' cup ' that fits onto a small ball had broken and had been secured using cable ties. This is why apparantly the apl / esp messages come up . Will be getting it sorted next week so I'll see how it goes .

 

Yes, this sounds like the swirl control valve and would give an ESP/ASR and Anti Pollution Fault.

 

I've had the same fault.

[Guest phil.d]

Yes, this sounds like the swirl control valve and would give an ESP/ASR and Anti Pollution Fault.

 

I've had the same fault.

That sounds like it , just hope the garage gets the right part thats all , dont want to keep spending on it so early after buying it.

[Guest phil.d]

Well the works been done , new diaphram , only 30 squid and all seems well but now I,ve got a tapping noise appear . Any ideas on that one ? . It seems the more I fix , another problem surfaces.

[PICASSOCONVERT]

Phil

 

Good luck with getting your problem sorted - I will watch your progress with interest. My son's 2001 2.2 estate has had the same problem for 3 months now and we're no further forward! The ESP/ASR and Antipollution fault shows up but the car doesn't always go into limp mode. He can get the diagnostics done at work but the codes which come up (I don't have them to hand at the moment) don't seem to help. We have had the car from new and the particulate filter/Eolys fluid and related controller were replaced at 5 years old, 73,000 miles. The car is now 8yrs 7 mths old and 114,000 miles.

 

This evening my son and his wife drove to us (about 90 mile journey) and the car went into limp mode after about 70 miles. I have just driven it round and about now for 10 miles and it's been fine and I drove it hard and gently but couldn't get it to go into limp mode.

 

I just wonder if there's a dry joint on a circuit board, or an intermittent connection somewhere.

 

David

[Guest phil.d]

Hello David.

 

Sure I'll keep posting with any faults that occur . The current one is this tapping sounding from nearer the back of the engine at the side. I think I was lucky with solving the esp/asr thing , the fault code suggested overboosting which tallied with the botch job on the diaphram they replaced. Before this was done , the car was tempermental no matter how you drove it in fact it lasted 2 whole days without the warnings coming on .Probably check the diaphram I'd replaced , you never know !

[Randombloke]

 

He can get the diagnostics done at work but the codes which come up (I don't have them to hand at the moment) don't seem to help.

 

Post them here anyway.

[Guest digitalinkjetman]

I had the same problems!!

 

Took the cat and dpf one evening and jetwashed them clean!

 

Its like a new car now!

[Guest phil.d]

Well the tapping noise is down to the bottom pulley which I believe is another common fault and has been mentioned in previous posts but its not going to cost the earth thank god . Thats a job for next month as its not going to stop the car.

[Johndouglas]

the tapping noise is down to the bottom pulley a job for next month as its not going to stop the car.

 

Depends how bad it is. If it lets ago it could do a lot of damage.

[Big Al]

Not sure where you are with all this, but as regards the broken swirl chamber valve linkage I had the same problem. It will lead to issues including hesitation at low speed, worse MPG and premature blockage of the DPF with subsequent warnings. On mine the plastic ball joint cup also broke. The easiest fix is to buy the new assembly which includes the diaphragm and linkage rod complete with new cup. To change the whole part is not particularly straightforward (for the DIYer anyway) but it is possible to swap the plastic 'cup' from the new linkage to the old one provided you are careful when removing it. The good news is that the new diaphragm, rod and connector assembly costs £20 from a Cit dealer. In all likelihood the actual diaphragm that moves the rod and hence adjusts the swirl chamber valve will be operating normally, and so this fix will work. And if the diaphragm is faulty, you will have the spare part anyway. To test the diaphragm, watch the rod and see if it moves when the engine is started/stopped. Hope this helps and good luck

[paul.h]

I had to replace this diaphragm (Citroens name for the complete part) last week since the plastic cup had broken, not sure when since there were no warning messages or poor running except recently I had been getting good fuel economy. It was a pig to replace and £30 at a dealer noted above is a bargain if they have replaced the complete part and not just the cup. I did try just replacing the cup but the rod was starting to bend as I tried to remove it.

 

Edited 26/7/2010 after fitting new screws - 1 was lost and the torx part of 1 was damaged whilst tightening - I would suggest getting a set of new screws before starting, they are only 6p each from Citroen:

You need a long T20 torx screwdriver, at least 40 cm to reach the screws. I ended up making one by welding a T20 bit onto a long 10mm rod since using the bit in a socket set all the fittings were too wide so the bit could not reach sideways on to the screw heads. I removed the air filter box cover including the flowmeter leaving them on the fuse box (to avoid undoing the electrical connector), the bellows section, the air filter, the bolt holding the air pipe behind the filter and disconnected (unbolted) the breather pipe at the end of the cam cover and unclipping it from the front support clip - all to give room for access. Stuff a tissue in the gap at the lower edge of the diaphragm fastening plate so loose screws are not lost. With the diaphragm 3 screws removed (and not lost down the back of the engine on to the suspension system) you can reach down the back of the engine with your left hand to pull off the flex pipe whilst holding the part body with your right hand. Fit the flex pipe first to the new diaphragm to help hold it in place. Refitting the left hand screw nearest the engine is not easy - a magnetised torx bit was not much help but holding the screw in a strand of house wire (2.5mm) to position it and then start tightening with the driver, then pull off the wire, worked although still awkward and you still have to locate the driver into the screw head with a finger on the screw. Machine Mart have an extending screwdriver in their latest catalogue which it says goes to 44 cm for about £7 so this may do if anyone fancies this job plus it has a built in LED to light up the area. The diaphragm was about £19 from Citroen.

[Guest phil.d]

Quick update , its been a couple of weeks since the diaphram replacement and all is still well . The bottom pulley is to be done next week and then I'll have a do at the tailgate glass bearing in mind I need a complete handle/switch etc. Anyone know the price for one of these ? . Replacing the diaphram can be a nightmare , even the garage said at the time. Cost me 60 quid for them to do it so that gives an idea if you cant be bothered doing it yourself.

[Guest timboo]

I have an ESP/ASR fault I have used my own computer and worked out that the fault is due to the steering sensor not being calibrated. The sensor works fine as I can see it on my computer. My computer is the latest and most upto date made by snap-on however there is no option to calibrate anywhere.

 

My question is simple are citroen the only ones that can calibrate this?

 

ta

[Guest Adrian Lee]

Very useful info in this thread. So I am not alone! (03 HDi)

I had discovered that dropping the battery connection often cleared it but yesterday found that I could get the ESP warning to go by stopping engine and then re-starting.

 

Will have a poke in the engine compartment to see if any rod waving about. As both indications came up at same time, I assumed it was a computer fault. However, I now assume that the Antipollution Fault 'piggybacks' itself onto the ESP fault to enforce 'limp home' mode. Would this be true?

[ataxidriver64]

Just a warning re ESP/ASR if display flashes up that it's not functioning believe me it isn't, TC and ABS still work though, found this out last week in the snow when the back end let go at a junction and ended up side ways on the wrong side of the road.

Any way re the ESP and Anti pollution fault I have replaced MAF sensor and both problems have disappeared and car is back upto full power, oh and they don't always show up as a fault.