paul.h

Between the pollen filter and the vents is the air con evaporator matrix that cools the air, the heater matrix, a flap to direct the air through the heater matrix or around it and then the flaps to direct the air to the vents. The outside air intake is located under the windscreen scuttle and on the mark 1 C5 right hand drive cars can collect rain from one of the wiper grommets and also from the windscreen and let it run in to the driver's footwell.

The filter that you did not have replaced, is this the pollen filter (cabin filter) that filters the dirt/pollen/leaves out of the cabin air supply ? If so I would replace it yourself, a filter may be about £10 to £20 but they quickly fill up and then restrict the air supply in to the car and can also become smelly. If you do not want to replace it now, then at least remove it and vacuum off the loose dirt and fit it back. The Citroen Maintenace and Warranty book gives a replacement frequency of every 10000 miles or 1 year if sooner for the C1 1.0 petrol. The pollen filter is located underneath the right hand side of the dashboard and will probably just pull out. To replace it will only take a few minutes but you may need to vac out the area if it is full of leaves and other bits. As John has noted, have a regas now for maybe around £50-65 or leave it to later and then need a new compressor, refrigerant filter/dryer, some piping seals and also a regas with a total costing more than 10 times the original regas. Or you could do nothing, never use the air con and accept the car is worth less if you decide to sell it.

The washer is built in to the nuts. I could not find a torque value in the Citroen service box procedures for the Synergie. 240 ft/lbs = 320 Nm which is above the range of most reasonably priced torque wrenches. Machine Mart do a digital adaptor one for about £36 which can be used but is not ideal. I got one to use on our C3 rear hub nuts which are done to 300Nm but found a wrench that goes to 280 Nm clicked on max setting with 300 Nm on the adaptor one so just use this now. The Machine Mart is part no. PRO238 https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/040215238

Most likely the problem is a lack of refrigerant so the pressure is too low to allow the air con to work. It would be a good gamble to go for a regas and not bother with a diagnostic check. A regas will check for leaks and measure the pressure without needing a diagnostic check of the pressure. Sounds as if your Citroen dealer is charging too much. Our dealer charges about £50 to check and recharge the air con refrigerant. They could not really charge any more though since they would not be competitive. You should run the air con for maybe 10 minutes once or twice a month as John has said. The extra fuel you may use to do this is far cheaper than having the air con repaired if the refrigerant leaks out when the seals dry up due to lack of use. There has been a recent move due to legislation to use different refrigerants which are very expensive but I think you probably do not have these in your car.

If you get the Haynes manual for the C3 it lists what needs doing service wise and how to do it. If Arnold Clarke is a Citroen dealer, any Citroen dealer can look on their computer to see what servicing has been done but if not at least Arnold Clarke should still have a record, otherwise how would they know what to do each year ? The C3 does not require much maintenance and many of the checks are part of the MOT test. From the Haynes manual: Every 12 months - change engine oil and filter but it notes Citroen recommends this every 2 years or 20k miles if sooner. - check drive shaft rubber gaiters and cv joints. - lubricate hinges and locks. - road test. - reset service indicator. To do this hold in the speedo trip/mileage button, turn the ignition key so the dash lights up but does not start the engine, the service indicator will count down and when it displays =0 let go of the button. The engine can now be started. Every 20k miles or 2 years if sooner - replace the pollen filter. - check the aux drive belt. - check the front/rear brake pads (best to remove and clean). - check the rear brake shoes (drum brakes) but best to remove and clean. Note one shoe is thinner than the other when new so could mislead you into thinking it has worn down a lot. - check the handbrake. - check the exhaust system. - check the steering and suspension systems. Every 40k miles or 2 years if sooner - renew the brake and clutch fluid. Every 40k miles - renew the timing belt but it notes that Citroen recommend this every 80k miles or 10 years if sooner. On our C3 I used to remove the belt top cover each year since it was only 2 bolts to undo and then check its condition. Every 40k miles or 4 years if sooner - renew the spark plugs. - renew the air filter. - check the manual or automatic gearbox oil level. - check the exhaust emissions. - renew the coolant but it notes that the original coolant is a long life type. Every 10 years - renew the airbags and seat belt pretensioners (it would be interesting to see if anyone does this on any car)

If you have the Warranty and Maintenance Guide booklet for the car with all the service stamps, it gives the service intervals and what needs doing. You would need to see what was done at the last service to see if everything is up to date since things like the brake fluid should be changed every 2 years and the timing belt at the latest at 10 years if it has not reached the mileage recommended. Whether you change the oil/filter will depend on if full synthetic oil was used or if the car service is classed as arduous (or whatever term is used in the booklet) meaning short journeys.

This is from the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic, looks as if I will need to edit it: 37. New C5 (X7) window regulator cables break. I have read that the cables can rust and break. Replacement cables are readily available through such as ebay and possibly Citroen giving a low cost repair. So far this fault has not appeared on this forum.

Welcome to the forum. What year and what power output is the engine - 90 or 110 bhp but I am guessing 90 since you only mention 5 gears ? We are now on our 3rd C4 1.6 hdi and each newer car has slightly higher gearing to give improved fuel economy but I find our latest one needs just above 30 mph to use 4th gear and just above 40 mph to use 5th gear and then 45 to 50 mph to use 6th. Diesel cars are usually driven changing gears at a lower rpm than a petrol and about 2000 rpm may be about right so that in the higher gear the engine is about 1200 to 1500 rpm. If it struggles once in the higher gear then maybe a higher rpm gear change may be needed. The engine peak torque is around 1800 rpm so it will pull at its best around this value and revving much above this is not normally needed unless accelerating/overtaking/doing 70 on a motorway.

When we had a 2003 C3 1.4 petrol 75 bhp, manual gearbox, I used Castrol magnatec 5w30 full synthetic A1 which met the spec in the handbook and was readily available at reasonable price from Asda (and sometimes on offer at Halfords). The previous service at the dealer used Mobil P 5w30 full synthetic. Since it is a 20k mile (or 2 years if sooner) service interval you should only use a full synthetic. Note the oil amounts in the Haynes manual are not correct and there is a pinned topic in the C3 Technical section on this.

I am not sure if the second image that comes up is for your car and possibly the first is for a 1997 Xantia going by the link to the topic at the right of it. Probably you are better repeating the google search I did using the search words 'xantia fuse list' and in the results were the pictures which I linked to.

Do the same things also happen if the climate control is taken out of auto ?

Not sure if I was clear enough but I meant to pull the electrical connector off the switch and then bridge the 2 wires in this connector (one of these 2 wires will be earth and the other a 12 volt supply). Nothing needs doing to the lock.

I have not driven a 2009 C5 but you could check the power steering fluid level is not low since the 2008 on C5 is known to suffer from steering rack oil leaks which need a replacement rack to fix. See the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic for details - the leaks are from the column input shaft seal and from the fluid pipe connections to the rack.

Same as John on our C5s, only ever used copper grease but it does not do a permanent job of stopping the corrosion and needs repeating every couple of years but the brakes need cleaning anyway so it is not much more effort to do. There is a pinned topic on the C5 brakes you can read http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/forum/97-problems-and-fixes-c5/. I think I read that coastline has used polythene but it will be a lot thinner than the 0.8 mm PTFE, the thickness of which you may find is a problem and you may need to keep tightening the bolts as it gradually thins so I could not recommend using the PTFE. You may even find trying to do the caliper bolts up to the 70 Nm will cause the PTFE to be extruded and thinned. For calipers that originally used loctite along the bolts, to seal the caliper/arm joint, Citroen procedures are: ESSENTIAL : Coat the surface between the brake caliper and the rear arm with FORMAJOINT 510 sealing product.

Is the vibration felt under the brake pedal as when the abs is working or is it just the steering wheel ? Sounds as if the front and rear brakes need a service/clean and the disc runout checked on all 4 brakes. If the discs have recently been replaced then probably the runout was not checked when fitting. When fitting new discs the hubs should be cleaned first as well as the back of the discs where they contact the hubs, then once in place the runout checked and if outside the specs the disc should be moved around the hub and checked again to see if it is within spec. If still outside the spec then the cause should be sorted such as damage to the hub or disc contact area filed out and if still not ok the discs changed.

Welcome to the forum. The service box manual include the parts diagrams if that is the one you were looking at. However, the Citroen parts diagrams are available as a free service if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club on the service.citroen site. You will need to use your VIN (VIS) to get the right comms unit since there seem to be many different ones depending on the car. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres

If the lock works using the remote but not the boot switch, then I would think the problem is likely to be with the switch or its wiring and not the lock. If you unplug the switch electrical connector and then bridge the connector pins the boot will unlock if it is the switch but if it is a wiring problem it will not unlock. Most likely place for wiring damage is where it goes between the body and boot and wiring failure here is quite common on many Citroens. The Haynes manual for the 2001 to 2008 C5 shows the boot switch justs connects the supply wire from the bsi fuse box to earth so it could be the same on your car and if so one wire should have a 12 volt supply and the other be connected to earth. The lock has its own supply from the bsi (2 wires plus an earth) but shares the switch earth point, however the lock is unlikely to have any voltage to it except when a signal is given from the bsi to unlock. The switch appears to be called a handle in the parts diagrams and is part no. 6490R3 for the estate and saloon cars but you should check this using your VIN. A new one from citroencarparts.net is £8.90 but if the switch is at fault it may just need its contacts cleaning.

Welcome to the forum. This does not seem good on a new car. It has not been mentioned on here before but there are not many C1 owners on the forum. I hope you do not have any more problems in the future.

Assuming your photo is upside down, this looks like the driver's side fog light so I am guessing you need the fog light surround. If so it is part no. 745365 and the passenger side is 745366 and they are called bumper moulding right and left (when viewed from inside the car looking forwards). They are £36.59 each from citroencarparts.net. You can check the part nos. using your VIN (VIS) as a free service in the Citroen parts diagrams if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. These parts can be found under Body work, Front section, Front bumper. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres

You might as well highjack this topic rather than starting a new one since the original poster has not been back to read the replies. Have you asked your Renault dealer about it ? Is your gearbox a manual or automatic ? Has anyone on the Renault forums reported the same problem ? When you drained the oil out did you measure the quantity to see if there was too much ? Possibilities I can imagine that would cause it to over flow: - there is something wrong with the breather, such as it is in the wrong place/a foam insert is missing/it extends inside the gearbox too far - the gearbox oil level is too high - is the correct level plug being used ? On many Citroens they do not have a level plug and getting the level right involves draining the oil out and then adding the correct amount. Some Citroen engines are at an angle and the apparent level plug should not be used since it would result in a high oil level. - the oil is frothing due to contamination - there is a problem with the gearbox and it is overheating and boiling the oil. Does the gearbox sound noisy such as whining in any gears which could indicate a worn bearing ?

Welcome to the forum. Is this to replace any particular window, if so a dealer will sell the glass or you could try a windscreen repair company.

Welcome to the forum. You could check the fuse list in the handbook to see if one could have failed. It may still be under warranty and if so a dealer should fix any problems. For warranty claims the servicing needs to be up to date. I part overheard a discussion about a failed engine and to be able to put a claim to Citroen the dealer wanted to see the invoice to prove a service which included an oil/filter change had been done since it was not on the Citroen records and it was well past the mileage for a service. However, the vehicle owner said the garage where it was done did not give invoices and as a result a claim could not be made at that time.

Welcome to the forum. It could be a relay or wiring problem at the fan.

You could look up the tyres and see what noise level they give in dbels.

This is a slightly modified procedure for removing the gearbox from the Citroen service box. It is supposed to be about 8 hours to replace the clutch. 2. RemovingN.B. : The transmission is removed from under the vehicle.Use a two column lift.Lift and support the vehicle.Remove :The headlamp cover trimThe battery coverDisconnect the battery.Disconnect the connector of the flowmeter.Remove :The batteryThe battery trayThe upper protector of the engine management ECUThe engine management ECUThe lower protector of the engine management ECUThe air inlet ductThe air filter boxUnplug :The earth cableThe reverse gear switch connectorMove aside the harnesses attached to the gearbox .Remove :The hydraulic clutch control slave cylinder (2 bolts) Uncouple the ball-joints from the gear control cables ; Using the tools [1], [2] (10 and 13 mm forks).Remove :Gear control bracketThe reverse gear deviceRemove :The front wheelsThe protective panel under the engineThe front LH splash-shieldThe air deflectors (covers at the bottom of the front wings)The sub-frame transverse stiffenerThe crankcase protector (frame around the sump)The turbocharger greasing pipeDrain :The gearboxthe cooling systemRemove the drive shaftsRemove and move aside the power steering pipes attached to the sub-frame front frame . Remove :The front frame of the front subframeThe reaction linkThe impactersThe pre-catalyst supportRemove the securing bolts from the starter .Move aside the starter .Remove : The lower fixing screws coupling the gearbox on the engine.Make contact under the crankcase : Place a wooden block between the sump and the jack .Hook the crane onto the gearbox. Release : The dynamic stability control (ESP) block.Remove : The gearbox mountingThe upper screws fixing the gearbox on the engineThe gearbox3. RefittingCAUTION : Use the drifts [3], [4] to fit new final drive oil seals, having greased the space between the seal lips.N.B. : Ensure that the gearbox centring pins are present.Check :There are no oil leaks at the stop guide sealThat there is no leak at the crankshaft sealThe state of wear of the clutchThe state of wear of the declutch bearingRectify (If necessary).CAUTION : Clean the input shaft completely along its entire length, over its entire periphery and in the grooves.Protect the interior of the clutch housing from splashes of grease.Apply the recommended grease uniformly on the stop guide and the input shaft.Grease the fingers of the clutch fork.N.B. : For these operations, use MOLYCOTE G-RAPID PLUS grease.Remove the surplus grease on the top of the grooves and the end of the input shaft using a cloth.N.B. : An excess of grease will contaminate the clutch friction plate and cause noise in neutral, slipping or juddering of the clutch.CAUTION : If the clutch disc is reused, the disc hub must be free of traces of oxidation.Clean the bolt threads.When refitting, the stop must be on its guide and positioned by the throw-out fork.Set the gearbox in neutral.Attach the gearbox to the engine.Position : The dynamic stability control (ESP) block.Refit :The bolts securing the gearbox to the engine ; Tighten to 55 NmThe gearbox mounting (60 Nm)The pre-catalyst supportGear control bracketThe reverse gear deviceThe starter motorThe fixing screws of the starter ; Tighten to 20 NmThe impactersThe reaction link ; Tightening to 65 NmThe turbocharger greasing pipeThe crankcase protectorThe front frame of the front subframe ; Tightening to 55 NmThe sub-frame transverse stiffener ; Tightening to 125 NmThe power steering pipesThe hydraulic clutch control slave cylinder. Tighten to 18 NmThe drive shaftsRefill :The gearbox via the breather opening ; 1,9 ± 0,15 litresThe cooling systemRefit :The front LH splash-shieldThe air deflectorsThe protective panel under the engineThe front wheels 100 NmCouple the gear control cable ball joints .Fix the harnesses attached to the gearbox .Connect :The reverse gear switch connectorThe earth cableRefit :The air filter boxThe air inlet ductThe lower protector of the engine management ECUThe engine management ECUThe upper protector of the engine management ECU (3)The battery trayThe batteryConnect the flow meter connector.Reconnect the battery.CAUTION : Perform the operations to be carried out following reconnection of the battery.Refit :The battery coverThe headlamp cover trim