paul.h

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. I do not know how far you need to move the car but if only a bit so it is out of the way you could consider wheel dolleys under each wheel such as these from Machine Mart https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/awd1-automotive-wheel-dolly-pair How long is it since the car last ran and then were there any problems ? As for starting if you have fuel, the right air/fuel mixture, no blockage in the exhaust or air inlet, sparks and correct plug gaps, compression, sufficient revs on the starter, then that only leaves the timing to be correct and you would think it should start. If it has a distributor you could check the cap is ok, it is not damp, the rotor arm is in good condition and the points (if it has them) are in good condition, the gap is right and they are starting to open at the correct timing.

Another thought, how did the person get in to the car, does the previous owner still have a key but not one with an immobiliser chip ?

Possibly the glove box was opened to access the OBD 16 pin socket so diagnostic equipment could be used to get round the immobilser. A possible way to overcome the steering lock may be to use force to turn the steering wheel so that the lock is broken - we had this on an Astra. If you remove the ignition key can the steering wheel be turned or does the steering lock still prevent this ? So if the lock is broken and then the immobilser is overcome then the car could be driven away but also the starter switch on the back of the key barrel would need to be turned - on the Astra the column covers were prised off and a screwdriver used to turn the switch. It makes you wonder why somebody would want to take the car, possibly for spares but then scrap yards are available for this. As for the remote not working, you may be best trying a dealer using their diagnostic equipment to see if everything is communicating and this would include the comms 2000 unit (possibly it has been corrupted by the use of the theft diagnostic equipment).

Welcome to the forum. If cleaners are not working then maybe it has a laquer paint layer that could be resprayed or maybe something like T-Cut or a polish could help.

I suspect not, it has not happened on any car I have owned. When shutting the door are you holding the key or is it near the car - just in case it is sending a lock signal.

You will probably need to use a Citroen dealer but you could also try GSF and eurocarparts.

Off hand I am not sure on the C5 but on our C3 the engine fan starts at 96°C and stops once down to 94°C. So the normal running temperature could be up to 96°C before the fan starts. Recently this car and our C4 in the warmer weather have continued to run the engine fan for a few minutes after stopping the engine - I have checked live data on both and neither were overheating but it may have been related to using the air con.

The relay carrier in the back could be something to do with the towbar electrics.

Sounds as if the car needs a good service. The wheel squeak is most likely the rears brakes - see the relevant pinned post on removing/cleaning the caliper to suspension arm joint, the rear window not working is common and a fix is on here, it may need a new diesel fuel filter to improve performance, there is a fix on here for the indicator stalk button, traffic master needs a subscription if you want it to work, could be a faulty/dirty earth point at the back left corner of the boot giving the dim lights or maybe a poor electrical connector on the light, top stop light could be a wiring fault between the rear door and the body, at the left end (gearbox) there is a plastic socket and ball joint on the swirl flap actuator that breaks and could be the poor performance/esp cause. If you look at the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic you will see links to fixes and on the other C5 sections pinned topics to the fixes.

If you try lowering the car on to the axle stands, let us know how you get on but it could cause some confusion to the car since the sensors will not go to the expected height.

Maybe it is possible to activate/deactivate the directional headlights through the radio menu.

If you are going to spend that much you may as well get the Citroen service box from such as ebay.

On one of the screen shots the air temperature is showing -50°C so possibly the air flow meter is at fault. It should always be about the outside temperature or a bit higher once the engine has warmed up.

The code reader in the link above is only £39 and Gendan are a good supplier, I have bought 2 code readers from them. Were the experts a Citroen dealer ? You can use a reader to read and clear the fault code and limp mode will go but if the fault is still there it will come back again. However, if you have your own reader you will have a better idea if the experts are correct but also you can fix the problem yourself. If you do need a throttle body you could get a used one and the ecu if it does have a fault could be repaired by such as bba reman.

It is behind a small panel at the left side of the glove compartment. I would plug it in and see what temperatures the engine sensor is giving.

If the slave cylinder is the same stupid design as on our latest C3, the fluid supply pipe has 2 positions and 2 retaining clips. The pipe fully in one is normal (clip 3 nearest bleed screw fully in, clip 2 furthest from the screw in the out position) and the pipe out a bit is for bleeding (to bleed, push clip 2 in, pull clip 3 out, pull pipe out a bit then reverse to fit the pipe back).

You could check the tyres for uneven wear of the tread to indicate if the tracking is out - if out and the tyres pressures are always correct, then the inside or outside edges would be more worn than the rest of the tread. What make/model of tyres are they and are they winter or summer ones and what speed are you going on the roundabouts ? You could also try swapping the front and back tyres to see if this makes a difference if they are different makes. I can not imagine why a steering rack fault would cause the problem so depending on your tyre checks, you should go somewhere else.

It will have been the on/off switch. Here is a link to the topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20949-radio-issues-switches-on-by-itself/

We had a 2005 2.0 hdi Picasso and it was reliable, gave about 45 mpg but was not too good at towing a caravan (you need a C5 for that). Check for water ingress into the rear footwell under floor cupboards and also under the driver's seat. You may also need to look for corrosion since the other day I saw one with a big welded patch on the passenger side sill. Check the underneath spare wheel has not disappeared since they can be stolen if the locking bolt is not fitted. Check all the electrics work and the dash display works. From memory, since we changed the car in 2008, I found the driver's seat base knee roll was a bit big and after an hour could suffer from pins and needles in the legs, plus the central console was a bit wide so you could not sit with your left leg straight forward and possibly the steering wheel may have been off centre compared to the seat. I also vaguely remember problems of dash reflections. Being a tall car it could roll on bends. Also have a look on the Picasso forum, there is a link to it on the home page.

Never used them but your dealer may offer a discount on parts if you use them regularly and for special order parts, if you do not need them the next day they can possibly get them at a lower price and give a discount. citroencarparts.net also seem to offer Citroen parts at a discount but there might be delivery costs - they are a Peugeot deale in Barrow.

Welcome to th eforum. We once had a radio that did something similar on a different car and I think it turned out there was a bit of dirt holding the switch in place so you could see if yours is clean. However, it could be something to do with the box. Does it also happen if the radio is switched off before the engine is stopped ? The radio should also be turned off by the eco mode which after up to about 30 minutes after the engine is switched off, turns off things like the radio and internal lights to prevent the battery going flat if they are left on or a door is left open.

I think it will mean the driver's side rear suspension strut rubber gaitor is leaking a bit of suspension fluid out. In practice this means the strut needs replacing since this will be leaking oil into the gaiter. If you bend down and look under the car you should be able to see it quite easily. If you are going to go under the car support it on axle stands. A dealer will charge about 1 hour plus the parts (strut, R clip and some LDS fluid)since it does not take long to replace, so the total will be around £200. The lds level should be checked with the car at the low height setting, then switch off the engine and remove the key. There will be some pressure in the lds tank so open the cap slowly. The fluid level should be just above the bottom of the filler neck strainer.

It will be the ignition barrel and all the keys - make sure you get at least 2 since they will have the imobiliser chip in them that is needed to be recognised by the ecu. You should also get any door locks to match the key. Before you go down the route of changing your ecu, see what happens after the repairs. You could also post the fault codes on here.

In your other topic you had a 2002 Picasso so I was not sure if it was the same car. If it is, did you fix the starting problem ?