paul.h

The obvious place to get the part is from a Citroen dealer. The grill may be part no. 7422R5 without parking sensors or 7422R6 with parking sensors and chrome trim but you should check this against your VIN. From citroencarparts.net the first is £56.49 and the second £83.69. From your local dealer they could be a bit dearer.

Welcome to the forum. The list of fault codes on here gives: P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction When you replaced the temp sensors did you get the new ones from a Citroen dealer ? On a recent topic a member replaced a temp sensor with a low cost one from ebay and the fault did not clear - it turned out the ebay sensor was not right and another new one from a Citroen dealer cured the fault. The wiring should also be checked for any damage and the connector pins should be checked to make sure they are clean. At the ecu end make sure the connectors are clean and dry. I have deleted your other similar posts so any replies are in one place but I am not sure if this from one of them refers to your car: iannez, on 29 Nov 2006 - 7:16 PM, said:

Welcome to the forum. The fuses will be listed in the handbook and probably in the Haynes manual but an internet search on Xantia fuse list gave these pictures from a handbook which may help https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=xantia+fuse+list&hl=en-GB&rlz=1T4DKUK_enGB242GB242&tbm=isch&imgil=Ncwp9P5c-OEbhM%253A%253B1WzIq_skQUempM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fforums.overclockers.co.uk%25252Fshowthread.php%25253Fp%2525253D7193460&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Ncwp9P5c-OEbhM%253A%252C1WzIq_skQUempM%252C_&biw=1181&bih=827&usg=__w_Q3TmLppLKa0mxNQpvLVHg2PvA%3D&ved=0CC0QyjdqFQoTCKaDiKeL6sYCFYQ6FAodAEgF8Q&ei=SRytVea6JIT1UICQlYgP#imgrc=Ncwp9P5c-OEbhM%3A&usg=__w_Q3TmLppLKa0mxNQpvLVHg2PvA%3D

Welcome to the forum. I get parts from my local Citroen dealer, they are usually not too expensive, will be correct and will fit. You could try ebay or eurocarparts or GSF but often the prices are not much different or they are copy parts or from a scrap car. citroencarparts.net sell Citroen parts at a discount but you need the Citroen part no. which can be obtained from the parts diagrams if you register on the service.citroen site as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres http://www.citroencarparts.net/

If it is the anti roll bar drop links these tend to knock as you go over bumps or kerbs. To check them properly they need to be disconnected at one end to see if the joints have worn out and are loose. The exhaust heat shields can corrode at the mounting bolts and become loose and give an annoying rattle (happened to our C3). A large washer over the bolt will fix them back. You could also try with the rear seat backs in the down position in case they are rattling, also the rear seat belt buckles could be clipped to their stalks so they can not knock against the car sides. You could look at the exhaust mountings in case they are worn/perished and the exhaust back boxes have a metal band around them which can rust through so the back box is not supported - if the band needs replacing Citroen do not sell it but they can be obtained from sellers on ebay as a universal exhaust bracket.

If the paint has a laquer top layer then T cut is no use on it since it will just remove the laquer. If the scratch has gone through the colour layer to the primer then it will need repainting or you could use a touch up pen along the scratch but you are unlikely to get a good result although it will help to hide the scratch. You may be best to visit a body shop and see what is recommended.

You will need to use a code reader to see why it is in limp mode. Since your car is a 2002 diesel, low cost code readers are unlikely to work on it since EOBD was not required on diesels until 2004. So that leaves you probably needing to use a dealer for a diagnostic check at about the cost of 1 hours labour.

If it sounded as though you were going over a drain, then was the noise actually a problem with the car or was it the road surface and tyre noise ?

Our 2003 1.4 petrol did not start as well in winter (slower turnover on the starter motor) when compared to summer. In the end I replaced the battery with a higher capacity one and problem solved although just replacing it may have been enough.

Maybe you could remove the fuse and refit it in case the heating controller has become confused. Sometimes a battery disconnection/reconnection can clear odd electrical faults. In the C3 Technical section is a pinned topic of Common Problems with a battery disconnection/reconnection procedure that I use and has not caused any problems.

A dealer would do this for you at a cost of around 1 hours labour for a diagnostic check. The check could also look at the engine temperature sensors to see if these are giving normal values.

Welcome to the forum.

The front struts are expensive at over £300 new so since it was an advisory I would do as mentioned and wipe them clean and monitor them. Rear back plates being damp is an odd one since the car has disc brakes at the back so you need to investigate and find out what they are damp with. On drum brakes a leaking cylinder can leak brake fluid down the back plate but on disc brakes a leaking caliper is likely to just drip off on to the wheel - and apparently you have both rear ones leaking. If brake fluid clean the inside of the wheels since the fluid will remove the laquer.

I have read before that sometimes copy sensors not from main dealers may not work correctly with air flow sensors being an example. I have edited the topic title a bit to help when searching.

If it is a loose cover then looking under the car at them and pulling at them should find it. If one of these then most likely a fixing clip/nut/plastic rivet is missing or rusted off. You could also check any heat shields above the exhaust since these can corrode and need a large washer under the nut to fasten them back.

I would check the slave cylinder for a leak, try bleeding it to see if that helps but if leaking or if an assistant notices the arm moving back in whilst the clutch pedal is held down, I would then replace it myself. A new one does not cost much and does not take long to fit but this may depend on which engine you have.

Welcome to the forum. I have never bought from an auction but I think you only have a few hours (if any) to find a fault and reject a vehicle or try to get a reduced price. After that any repairs and costs are the responsibility of the new owner. Before going to the expense of a new pump you could get it confirmed at a Citroen dealer that it needs a new pump. If it runs in limp mode then possibly the pump is not at fault and the vehicle really needs a diagnostic check to find out what is wrong - without this you can change lots of parts hoping to find the fault before wasting too much money.

One thought on tensioning the belt. It looks as if moving the tensioner pulley acts on 2 lengths of the belt but in your revised layout it may not be adjustable enough to be able to provide enough tension but only by trying it will you know if it works. It could end up a bit of a gamble if it fails and the possible engine damage and costs compared to fixing the original damage.

I have only used code readers and I plug these in with the key out of the ignition and let it start up. After a while it realises the car is switched off so then I put the key in and turn it so the dash lights up. It will then communicate with the car, codes can be checked and deleted and live data checked before the engine is running to see if the sensors are showing normal values. Then I start the engine and again check for any codes and the live data. Fault codes should only be deleted with the engine off but the dash lit up. I normally remove the ignition key before unplugging the reader.

Let us know how the new car performs, although most people would avoid the same car after a bad experience.

Welcome to the forum.

What is a smart phone ? I have found the BBC has changed their news website to be phone friendly and now the site is poor compared to what it used to be, hardly any news, lots of white space around everything and it takes ages to load when your broadband speed is low.

Carburettor cleaner spray is good for cleaning the carbon/oil that can build up around the throttle plate. Spray a bit in and wipe it with a cloth. White spirit/turps on a cloth also works. Is the car servicing up to date, air filter, spark plugs ? You could also check the MAP sensor on the end of the air inlet manifold is not blocked with oil/carbon. There is also a knock sensor to avoid pinking. You have not mentioned the engine management light coming on so it will not be in limp mode. However, if you have a code reader that gives live data you could check the temperature sensor to see if it is correct and hence not giving the worng air/fuel ratio.

The labour time to remove the right drive shaft and replace the intermediate bearing is supposed to be 1.5 hours and the bearing if part no. 324703 is £22 from citroencarparts.net. There would also be some fresh gearbox oil needed. So if you have to pay 1 hours labour to be told the bearing needs replacing and then pay again for it to be replaced, the £66 is wasted (I am surprised you are even being asked to pay since if your car had been booked in saying it is making a noise I would have expected the garage to have a look and give a price to fix it). You may be better just having it replaced if you think this is the fault and you could ask for a cost to do this. When looking at the future costs for your car a new timing belt and water pump is about 3 hours labour so with parts could be around £300 to £400. Then ATS have said it may need 2 tyres at the rear and rear brake discs/pads - say around £400 for all these. Then add possibly £150 for this bearing, giving about £900 ish. Alternative options can include to do the minimum and accept if the car breaks in the future it is scrapped and then replaced, do nothing and look for a replacement car that does not need any work, find a friend who would do the work with you without labour costs since the labour costs are a major part of the repairs.

Welcome to the forum. If you are not going to keep to the normal colour for your car then just choose a black colour that the body shop has. If you want to see the recent colours used by Citroen you could look at a car brochure on the Citroen site, for black these include perla nera black metallic (code may be KTVD), obsidian black pearlescent (code EXLD). If not done already, you will need to inform your insurance company the car is not standard otherwise they may not pay out in a claim.