paul.h

For the light to come on there must be a fault code stored which they then reset. Ask for the code and post it here.

Condensation in the headlamp could be the rear bulb cover not being put back properly. If so, you will need to remove the cover for some time for the unit to dry out before refitting.

'Fronting' - This is not in our case, in the last 3 years I have done about 15k miles in the car and the learner only about 200. It was a case of us having a car that a learner could also use since our other cars could not be insured for a learner as a named or even main driver. If the time comes when the learner passes the test and becomes the main driver then the car/insurance would then be changed over. However, John is correct to point this out - the learner should not be the main driver if they are only a named driver on the car's insurance.

We have a 2008 1.6 hdi VTS+ hatchback (not coupe) as well as a C5. The C4 is a good drivers car, sticks to the road, accelerates quickly, handles well, bends nice and fast, firm suspension ok on smooth roads but a pain on a long journey when compared to the C5, returns 60 mpg at motorway speeds when C5 (2.2 hdi) gives 50 on same journey, brakes better than on C5 requiring very little effort. Downside - not as big as C5 when there is a lot to carry, tyres are low profile so expensive (Mich £160 each), fancy steering wheel but if you are getting on a bit the controls on it are a bit close for seeing clearly, windows are small in the back, black interior a bit gloomy, easy to bump your head when getting out against front door pillar. I think Jeremy Clarkeson gave it a good write up. I am not sure but I think we paid about £8k when it was 10 months old 16k miles, from our local Citroen dealer which was just as the credit crunch started and prices were low. Similarly the part ex on our Picasso was low but acceptable. Look on Citroens own dealer sites to get an idea of current prices. The car is now 36k miles and no problems. There is another C4 specific forum which is worth a look and has many postings.

Forgot to mention, our C5 2.2 hdi VTR is brilliant pulling our caravan (probably about 1100 kg loaded, max 1300), always runs level due to suspension, plenty of power, returns about 30 mpg towing depending on weather conditions/no of hills, stable combination (Bulldog stabiliser fitted), sometimes use the suspension on the sport setting on uneven/bumpy roads to smooth the ride with the caravan. When you come to hook on/unhook the caravan it helps if the car doors are shut and keep a foot on the back bumper when winding down the jockey wheel or the car will rise with the caravan. I use the strap on door mirrors with the straps crossed over so they do not come off.

Have you tried Direct Line over the internet ? You can also try lots of options to see the effect on the cost. If you have other insurance with them they give extra discounts. We now have the C3, C5 and house insured with them plus a named driver on your policy builds up their own no claims discount which they can use if they later insure a car with Direct Line. Your best cost option may be you buy a small car as your run around and he is a named driver so you can take him out for practise (white knuckle ride for you). Then in a year or so when he passes his test, transfer the car and insurance to him as the new main driver. This is what we have done/planned and just as well, after 3 years, lots of lessons and 4 tests our daughter has still not passed, is not really interested in driving and has only done a few hundred miles in the car. I would imagine though a boy will be different.

Unless the gearbox oil level is low, 104k miles may not be enough for a gearbox bearing to have worn. A worn wheel bearing is also a possibility, does the noise change when going round a left or right bend ? On a bend more weight is put on the outside of the car relative to the bend and a worn bearing on that side of the car would usually be a bit louder. Have you had a good listen under the bonnet with the engine running, pulley bearings on the auxiliary and timing belts and water pump may whine when worn but the noise level should be related to engine speed and not road speed.

Someone using a mobile phone at the time, phone mast near you, wireless internet, handheld card reader in a shop nearby (this was on the news not too long ago where the frequency was similar to cars) ? Does the spare key work ? I have a few times had the key button not work on our C3 outside our house and in a car park and had to use the key in the door but our car does not have an alarm so once in the ignition no further problems. We had a Picasso with an alarm which also has done similar outside our house but not had to do anything other than put the key in the ignition to stop the alarm. Using the spare keys made no difference. I have not done anything about this.

I think your warranty should cover the problems. The wiper fuse I have blown a few times when the washer jets have been frozen - the secret is to use additive so the water does not freeze but if not, try a short pull on the wiper stalk and if the water does not spray out then wait until the water has melted before using again.

The C5 is supposed to be one of the more reliable cars but I would have a look under each C5 subforum at the headings to get an idea of possible problems but these include rear brake squealing, pollution messages, rear subframe bearings on higher mileages, some have had front seat frames break, the climate control not giving the correct temperature at each side of the car (hot when should be cold), suspension not working properly - should always be level (parallel to the ground) and central switch should raise and lower the car (always put to the max height before jacking up - its in the handbook), suspension pump will run for a short time when the doors are closed after you get in but not continually, wet driver's footwell - check the carpet is dry after rain, tyres can be expensive.

I think you realise you are in a bit of a minefield here and I am presuming your mechanic did the work as a "foreigner". If the mechanic is going to stamp your book with his company stamp but did not do the work through his company, then maybe stamping the book could be considered as fraud on both your parts since you are both knowingly involved in a deception with presumably the aim of letting a subsequent buyer of the car think it had been serviced by the company (with all the protection, etc that this provides). What if there is a problem which involves insurance companies and they want to persue the company who did the work. Does your mechanic have liability insurance if not working for his company ? Are there tax implications for the mechanic ? When I do work on our cars I do not fill in the service book but keep a separate record and keep the receipts for the parts. In your case, you should still have a detailed receipt for the work whether or not the service book is filled in and this is probably more important since anyone could stamp a book without doing the work. Also if you are keeping the car for a few years (and it is already 9 years old), a stamped service book I would not think is important especially since most jobs on older cars are outside the normal service list and somebody is more likely to later buy your car on its condition.

I think we need a bit more info - engine, mileage, does this only occur at low revs and is then car ok, is it the same with hot or cold engine, service history and any recent work on the car, can revs be increased steadily with car in neutral, have you done any checks yet e.g. looked under bonnet for air leaks/loose hoses ?

Replacing the clutch release bearing is usually done at the same time as a new clutch since the gearbox has to be removed so you could ring round for a quote for clutch replacement but is likely to be a few hundred with the parts. However, I would have thought this bearing would still be noisy with the car not moving and the engine running/being revved but if it was an internal gearbox bearing then that would be different. I have replaced gearbox bearings on Saabs at high mileage (150k) and they whine and the volume increases as the speed is increased - the bearing shells have been pitted and the case hardening worn away. In this case, disengaging the clutch releases the load on the gearbox and the noise reduces. If you have had to replace a washing machine drum bearing then the noise on a high spin speed is similar. How many miles has the car done ?

When we were in a similar position we found the Fiat Punto 1.2 8 valve and a Citroen C3 1.4 petrol were affordable for insurance. So we have the C3.

I do not know about the Saxo but I have had other cars where the seals around the rear lights to the body have let rain through. Solution was to remove them, clean up the seals and refit with some silicon sealant smeared over the seal. Also worth a check the lights are fitting correctly and no bits broken off/cracked.

Is the noise there when the car is not moving but the engine is being revved - just to help eliminate things like wheel and gearbox bearings ? Have you looked under the bonnet for air leaks on all the hoses ?

"Xsaraiihdi - I also checked the water pump and found all the vains missing." The lack of vanes on the water pump would seriously reduce the circulation of the coolant and lead to overheating. Maybe this should be one of the first checks although it needs the timing belt removing.

The service book gives the cam belt and servicing details. I think the time limit is 10 years for the cam belt, or 40k miles for severe service which ever is first. Normal servicing is every 2 years or 20k miles whichever is first so if it has not been serviced recently then it should have the normal 2 year one which includes things like brake/clutch fluid change. If it has not been serviced in the last 5 years then it could be in a bit of a state wrt engine oil/filter/brake fluid/brake corrosion. An idea of its value can be found on-line from Parkers and autotrader and Citroen's own website for dealers.

Is it easy to check if the timing belt is still set up correctly and not jumped ?

Many of us will have used Haynes to learn our way round our cars and servicing is not too difficult, just takes time and confidence to do it the first time. If unsure on safety items then if possible get some help/have the work checked or even pay to have it done. The work is likely to take longer than a garage and it is useful to have a second car to get unexpected parts whilst one is in bits. Machine Mart (amongst others) sells decent tools at reasonable prices. Haynes often notes the tools needed but ones additional for a service to those listed by Harry include an oil filter wrench (there are various types, if you can get over the end of the filter I prefer the 3 legged claw type but also have a chain one and a strap one for more awkward filters - punching a screwdriver through to use as a lever does not always work), an old bowl to collect the draining oil which can be poured in to an empty oil container to take to the council recycling tip (a funnel minimises spillage), a torque wrench (possibly a low and a high range one), a 1½ lb ball pein hammer, extension bars for extra leverage on the socket ratchet, 6 point sockets are less likely to round off nuts, a ½ inch drive socket set is probably better than smaller ones for a first set but you may find some socket sizes are not in a standard set such as 16 and 18 mm, torx bits are needed for many jobs, hex bits (like allen keys) for some jobs, flat files for cleaning up things, emery paper for cleaning the brake discs (about 150 grit size), various size screwdrivers for use as levers/chisels/scrapers, axle stands are a must plus a bit of wood sometimes to use on top, a trolley jack is not needed or car ramps - especially on the C5 which must be raised to full height before jacking up, gloves to stop cuts when undoing tight bolts, a spray brake cleaner helps when doing brakes, copper grease for the metal contact areas of the brake pads, if fitting new front pads to the C5 you need to wind in the caliper pistons - special tools are available, a Mityvac hand pump is useful to change the brake/clutch fluid, a micrometer or vernier caliper is needed if you want to check the thickness of brake discs, spark plug socket if a petrol engine (I think the C5 may need a special one), feeler gauge for spark plug gap checking, a decent torch/inspection lamp in case it is getting dark. Wheel chocks are useful on the C5 if jacking up the front since the handbrake and gears are both disengaged when doing the front brakes. Some small ring spanners are needed, I think the pollen filter cover needs a 6 mm ring spanner and the brake bleed nipples 8 mm.

If there are no obvious external leaks (radiator, all hoses, air bleed cap on rear hose, water pump seal, filling cap poor seal, cabin heater matrix) then this leaves the engine cylinder head gasket may have failed - you may see steam coming out of the exhaust if it is really bad and water in the engine oil. A garage can check for exhaust gases in the header tank which will help confirm gasket failure. If it is the head gasket then you would be better not using the car until fixed in case the head becomes warped which will increase repair costs - this could happen anyway if the water level is too low and allows overheating. You have not mentioned it going to high temperature so I have assumed the cooling fan is working and the water is not simply being boiled off like a kettle out of the filler cap. A web site like eurocarparts will give you some idea of the parts cost if doing your own repairs. If you provide your engine model somebody here may give you an idea of a dealer repair cost.

If the bad egg smell (hydrogen sulphide gas from burning fuel with a highish sulphur content) is not from the exhaust, I have also had similar smells from a windscreen washer bottle when it had gone mouldy needing cleaning out and also from a car battery when in need of replacement. I can not remember all the things done to this car and its mileage but presume it has had a good service - new spark plugs, air filter, cleaned out the throttle body but also has a check been done on the engine compressions and timing (in case the timing belt has slipped or is installed a tooth out) ?

May be low battery voltage, measure it before and after starting the engine, should be about 12.5 and 14 volts.

If you look at www.onlineautomotive.co.uk there are diagrams of the exhaust and prices.

Sounds as if there may not be enough gas in there. There should be a label under the bonnet telling you the gas (refrigerant) type (R134a usually) and the amount. The RTA manual for the petrol cars quotes 600+/-25 grammes and 135 cm3 of oil. If you went to an air con specialist they would remove all the existing gas, do a vacuum pressure test and then refill with the correct amount of gas. A common leak point (note from Iannez) is corrosion of the lower pipe connection to the condenser matrix behind the front bumper which can be seen/reached looking through the slots - prevention is to put on some grease.