paul.h

all i get is bubbles from the front ones... A few things to consider: Are the front washer jets blocked ? - use a pin in the jets. Is the washer motor working ? Is the washer motor inlet blocked ? Has the washer pipe to the jets split ?

I know this adds to the cost, but if you decide to change the timing belt and its tensioner, it is worth also changing the water pump since this is driven by the timing belt and probably will not last forever. I would also consider replacing the thermostat, another item that will not last forever and requires draining of the anti freeze. This then helps the case for replacing the anti freeze. If this helps, our C3 1.4 sx, 03 reg is now on 35k miles. It has had the dealer 2 year services and timing belt has not been mentioned. However, last year I removed the top cover over the belt (only 2 bolts ?) and the belt looked in good condition and also no signs of any oil contamination. iannez - do your costs include the parts (belt, tensioner, anti freeze) - they seem reasonable and you will be giving a warranty of your work on the belt change which a DIY change will not provide.

If you look in the car handbook/maintenance record book it gives the items for each service. The coolant is a type that does not need regular replacement and the brake fluid is to be changed every 2 years since it gradually absorbs moisture and the boiling point lowers - this interval is normal for most cars. You will find the actual service does not cover much - oil and filter and pollen filter change with a few checks. Things like brake servicing/spark plug replacement/air filter replacementy are extra or at a high mileage. One reason to keep the dealer servicing though is for when the front suspension coil springs break - Citroen will then replace them free of charge, even though it will be out of warranty. The car will also be prone to fuel injector failure - to prevent this you need to seal around the windscreen washer jets and bonnet to stop rain dripping onto the injectors and also check the washer hoses connections under the bonnet do not drip - I replaced the hard plastic hose with a rubber type which seals better.

gaztank, have you got the xenon headlights fitted ? If not then as far as I can tell (from my car 2004 2.2 hdi VTR hatchback and the Haynes manual) the headlight height is only adjustable manually at the light itself, there is no auto adjustment or dash mounted switch as with other cars. This makes sense since the car should always be level (parallel to the ground) due to the suspension, no matter what load is put in the car. This is one of the things I like about the car when towing, it stays level. Both cases could be a suspension problem/height sensor problem as techbod/coastline have suggested. Worth taking the car up and down on the suspension whilst stationary to see if this has an effect on the lights. I would not go under the car though unless on a ramp to save getting squashed. There are known problems with the sensors sticking reported on this forum.

No matter how long it takes, it is always good when a note is posted so we have the complete story and are not left in suspense.

I am sure this small radiator is the turbo intercooler which cools the air between the turbo and inlet manifold. At the engine end of this top hose should be diverter valves which either lets the air through the cooler or by-passes it through a water heated jacketted pipe. If you squeeze these air hoses you will not get any water noises. I think the part with the rod is the 'capsule de commande de volet d'air' which probably translates as controlling air volume. I just put this into google and it came back with a French auto forum which google translated with posts about this air system and photos - worth a try.

Without seeing it, could this box be an oil cooler for the auto transmission ?

Had a look in the French RTA manual which covers the 2.2 hdi engine. At the left hand end of the cylinder head is a large box unit and on the top of this at the front is the thermostat cover (held by 3 ? bolts) and fastened to the radiator top hose. Under this cover is the thermostat (and seal) which should start to open at 83°C (2.0 hdi is 89°C). The temperature sensor is on the left side of this box. It has 2 wires - may be worth removing the wire connector and checking if the contacts are clean and the wires are in one piece. With the connector removed the gauge should show cold (effectively very high resistance in the sensor) and with its contacts bridged (no resistance) it should show max, give a high temperature alarm and probably start the fan. 3 air bleed screws are shown - on the cabin heater return hose, on top of the thermostat cover, on top of the radiator.

Another possibility is a faulty thermostat. I had a Saab where the gauge would go to normal then fall and then rise again and repeat. In the end replacement of the thermostat fixed it. Other cases where the thermostat was faulty and opened too soon, the temperature has been slow to rise unless in slow traffic but once moving again would quickly fall. The thermostat is usually in a housing at the cylinder head end of the radiator top hose - until it opens, the hose should stay cold. I do not have a manual (such as Haynes) or the car nearby at the moment to check exactly what it looks like.

Check the front footwell carpets are dry - if not it could be the air con drain could be blocked or it could be raining in through the cabin air intake below the driver's wiper grommit. The rear brake calipers need removing every couple of years and corrosion removing/greasing where they contact the rear suspension arms. If needed, the signs are brake squealing and later knocking if they catch the inner wheel rims as the corrosion pushes the calipers out. When driving it should feel as though it glides smoothly compared to other cars with normal types of suspension. If it has sport mode this will stop it rolling on bends. They are an excellent tow car remaining level with a caravan on the back.

Is the engine running ok ? If so then it is more likely a gauge problem than the sensor. I seem to remember something about a gauge fix that Coastline posted some time ago but can not recall what it was.

The glove box lamp may have failed. From the French RTA manual, if I have read the wiring diagram right, the mirror lights take a feed via the front interior light and share the same earth. The rear interior lights are separate. All take supplies from the fusebox or something that resembles one. Thoughts are a fusebox problem or economy mode - does the radio work ? You could remove a lamp to check for a good earth.

We have a 2 year old C4 1.6 110 hdi manual VTR+ without the exhaust particulate filter, 5 door. I rarely get to drive it but it is quick, economical on fuel, handles well. Being the sportier model, the suspension is firm, the low profile tyres are expensive - the 2 fronts need replacing at 28k miles, the windows are small but you get used to it. On the outlet of the turbo there is a plastic section before the intercooler which started to leak oil out of the joints and the dealer sealed this up. No other problems. Rear brake discs could do with replacing since they are not wearing flat. If you look on the C5 forum the exhaust particulate filters (FAP) are expensive to replace and need doing 70 to 100k miles depending on the C5 model.

No idea of the cost but does anyone know if this car has a dual mass flywheel - if so this probably also needs replacing at this mileage which could add a few hundred to the cost for the parts.

The clutch is hydraulically operated (like the brakes) and not a cable so there will not be any adjustment possible. Sounds as if the clutch needs replacing. It will get worse until it slips all the time so it is best to replace it asap.

If you follow the radiator top hose back to the cylinder head, the thermostat is the black plastic housing at the end of the hose. It is not a separate thermostat inside the housing but is built into the housing itself. The temperature sensor (2 wire connector) is on top of the cylinder head next to the housing. There is also a separate high temperature switch (single wire connector) which is on the side of the cylinder head below the thermostat housing.

What year, model is your car ? This has happened twice now to our car 2003 1.4sx petrol. Both on the same journey and same day of the year on 25/12/2007 and 2009 on the way from Warrington to Leeds with temperatures about freezing. First time at the very end of the journey the temp went to max and the fan came on. I did lots of checks but found nothing but bought a new thermostat and temperature sensor but did not fit them since the fault did not recur. Second time I was still on the M62 motorway on the hilly bits but rather than stop (after the previous experience) I put the cabin heater and fan on full and opened the driver's window and slowed to between 50 to 60 mph for the last 20 miles. This managed to control the temperature and reduce the number of orange bars - this also indicated the high temperature switch (which is additional to the temperature sensor) had not caused the gauge to go to max. Using a code reader with live data, 2 bars starts about 70°C, 3 bars covers from about 78 to at least 96°C, it did not go higher in the test so I need to do more tests. I suspect either the sensor or the thermostat may need replacing - most likely the thermostat is not opening fully although with other cars faulty thermostats have always opened too soon so the engine has been cold. Following may be of use from the RTA French manual and Haynes manual - thermostat starts to open at 89°C and full open at 101°C. - high temperature switch set at 118°C. Single wire sensor, putting the connector to earth may start the fan and give full scale on the bars. - radiator fan has 2 speeds depending on engine temperature and air con. - the expansion tank cap pressure is 1.4 barg equivalent to 126°C steam if the coolant is boiling. - the temperature sensor resistance varies with temperature. 2 wire sensor, bridging the connector wires may start the fan and give full scale on the bars. 3800 ohms = 10°C 2500 = 20 800 = 50 230 = 90 Things that I still want to check include - sensor fault - thermostat not opening fully - radiator blocked internally or externally - water pump fault - anti freeze needs replacing - fan not running - although I would think it is not needed at 70 mph on the motorway - poor air flow through the radiator - coolant level although it is always ok in the tank - air in the cylinder head but by now I think it would have been ok or the head may have damaged - temperatures when everything happens - bars/fan starts/thermostat opens

The steering on our C3 has been as light as normal through the cold weather, lowest about -3°C. It has electric power steering so I would check if a fuse has blown (not sure what fluid level you checked).

I do not have these problems with our C3 (2003 1.4 petrol SX). A dip beam lamp did go last week just as it was switched on but only the filament had burnt through so nothing unusual. I found you have to be careful to make sure the lamp is fully seated and clipped in so it is not loose. Also do not touch the lamp glass since this can cause failure - usually mentioned on the packet. If the alternator is giving out more than its 14 volts (due to regulator problem) then this can cause failure. If the belt is being charged, have a look under the bonnet in the dark and you may see sparks coming from it. When opening a door, if a metal bit on the door is held as a foot is placed on the ground you should not get the static shock since you will earth yourself through the car and its tyres as you get out. Has this static problem with the doors just started and if so are there any changes - tyres, seats cleaned, different material clothes worn, dry atmospheric conditions ? Static electricty is created when dissimilar materials are separated and if not earthed will build up and is more likely in dry conditions. Here your clothes and the car seat material are likely to be causing you to become charged as you get out and then once out you touch a metal part of the car which then earths you - to check get somebody who is outside the car to close the door and they should be ok but not if they hold the door and you touch them.

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open or opening too soon. See if the radiator top hose warms up with the engine if it is opening too soon or waits until the engine is hot.

Was the fix a new blower ?

You can remove the mirror glass without having to remove the housing and this may give access to the temperature probe. The French manual I have shows using a screwdriver in the bottom corner away from the car door to access a clip on the back of the glass. The French is 'degrafer l'epingle, a l'aide d'un tournevis fin'. This translates as something like unhook the clip with the end of a screwdriver. The picture shows a round clip on the back of the glass with 2 ends at the corner. I do not have the Haynes book with me to see what it says.

Wet air filter restricting air flow ? Wet electrical components/connections ? A hair dryer may come in useful. Did the engine cut out in the puddle ?

I have had the service light on when the battery voltage was low and also from the front brakes which went when I moved the brake pad wear wire on one side (the pads were not worn).

If the airbags do not work would this affect an insurance claim, maybe by a passenger against the driver ?