paul.h

all i get is bubbles from the front ones... A few things to consider: Are the front washer jets blocked ? - use a pin in the jets. Is the washer motor working ? Is the washer motor inlet blocked ? Has the washer pipe to the jets split ?

I know this adds to the cost, but if you decide to change the timing belt and its tensioner, it is worth also changing the water pump since this is driven by the timing belt and probably will not last forever. I would also consider replacing the thermostat, another item that will not last forever and requires draining of the anti freeze. This then helps the case for replacing the anti freeze. If this helps, our C3 1.4 sx, 03 reg is now on 35k miles. It has had the dealer 2 year services and timing belt has not been mentioned. However, last year I removed the top cover over the belt (only 2 bolts ?) and the belt looked in good condition and also no signs of any oil contamination. iannez - do your costs include the parts (belt, tensioner, anti freeze) - they seem reasonable and you will be giving a warranty of your work on the belt change which a DIY change will not provide.

If you look in the car handbook/maintenance record book it gives the items for each service. The coolant is a type that does not need regular replacement and the brake fluid is to be changed every 2 years since it gradually absorbs moisture and the boiling point lowers - this interval is normal for most cars. You will find the actual service does not cover much - oil and filter and pollen filter change with a few checks. Things like brake servicing/spark plug replacement/air filter replacementy are extra or at a high mileage. One reason to keep the dealer servicing though is for when the front suspension coil springs break - Citroen will then replace them free of charge, even though it will be out of warranty. The car will also be prone to fuel injector failure - to prevent this you need to seal around the windscreen washer jets and bonnet to stop rain dripping onto the injectors and also check the washer hoses connections under the bonnet do not drip - I replaced the hard plastic hose with a rubber type which seals better.

gaztank, have you got the xenon headlights fitted ? If not then as far as I can tell (from my car 2004 2.2 hdi VTR hatchback and the Haynes manual) the headlight height is only adjustable manually at the light itself, there is no auto adjustment or dash mounted switch as with other cars. This makes sense since the car should always be level (parallel to the ground) due to the suspension, no matter what load is put in the car. This is one of the things I like about the car when towing, it stays level. Both cases could be a suspension problem/height sensor problem as techbod/coastline have suggested. Worth taking the car up and down on the suspension whilst stationary to see if this has an effect on the lights. I would not go under the car though unless on a ramp to save getting squashed. There are known problems with the sensors sticking reported on this forum.

No matter how long it takes, it is always good when a note is posted so we have the complete story and are not left in suspense.

I am sure this small radiator is the turbo intercooler which cools the air between the turbo and inlet manifold. At the engine end of this top hose should be diverter valves which either lets the air through the cooler or by-passes it through a water heated jacketted pipe. If you squeeze these air hoses you will not get any water noises. I think the part with the rod is the 'capsule de commande de volet d'air' which probably translates as controlling air volume. I just put this into google and it came back with a French auto forum which google translated with posts about this air system and photos - worth a try.

Without seeing it, could this box be an oil cooler for the auto transmission ?

Had a look in the French RTA manual which covers the 2.2 hdi engine. At the left hand end of the cylinder head is a large box unit and on the top of this at the front is the thermostat cover (held by 3 ? bolts) and fastened to the radiator top hose. Under this cover is the thermostat (and seal) which should start to open at 83°C (2.0 hdi is 89°C). The temperature sensor is on the left side of this box. It has 2 wires - may be worth removing the wire connector and checking if the contacts are clean and the wires are in one piece. With the connector removed the gauge should show cold (effectively very high resistance in the sensor) and with its contacts bridged (no resistance) it should show max, give a high temperature alarm and probably start the fan. 3 air bleed screws are shown - on the cabin heater return hose, on top of the thermostat cover, on top of the radiator.

Another possibility is a faulty thermostat. I had a Saab where the gauge would go to normal then fall and then rise again and repeat. In the end replacement of the thermostat fixed it. Other cases where the thermostat was faulty and opened too soon, the temperature has been slow to rise unless in slow traffic but once moving again would quickly fall. The thermostat is usually in a housing at the cylinder head end of the radiator top hose - until it opens, the hose should stay cold. I do not have a manual (such as Haynes) or the car nearby at the moment to check exactly what it looks like.

Check the front footwell carpets are dry - if not it could be the air con drain could be blocked or it could be raining in through the cabin air intake below the driver's wiper grommit. The rear brake calipers need removing every couple of years and corrosion removing/greasing where they contact the rear suspension arms. If needed, the signs are brake squealing and later knocking if they catch the inner wheel rims as the corrosion pushes the calipers out. When driving it should feel as though it glides smoothly compared to other cars with normal types of suspension. If it has sport mode this will stop it rolling on bends. They are an excellent tow car remaining level with a caravan on the back.

Is the engine running ok ? If so then it is more likely a gauge problem than the sensor. I seem to remember something about a gauge fix that Coastline posted some time ago but can not recall what it was.

The glove box lamp may have failed. From the French RTA manual, if I have read the wiring diagram right, the mirror lights take a feed via the front interior light and share the same earth. The rear interior lights are separate. All take supplies from the fusebox or something that resembles one. Thoughts are a fusebox problem or economy mode - does the radio work ? You could remove a lamp to check for a good earth.

We have a 2 year old C4 1.6 110 hdi manual VTR+ without the exhaust particulate filter, 5 door. I rarely get to drive it but it is quick, economical on fuel, handles well. Being the sportier model, the suspension is firm, the low profile tyres are expensive - the 2 fronts need replacing at 28k miles, the windows are small but you get used to it. On the outlet of the turbo there is a plastic section before the intercooler which started to leak oil out of the joints and the dealer sealed this up. No other problems. Rear brake discs could do with replacing since they are not wearing flat. If you look on the C5 forum the exhaust particulate filters (FAP) are expensive to replace and need doing 70 to 100k miles depending on the C5 model.