paul.h

Welcome to the forum. You have to get at least the SX model to have the rear head rests as standard. I would imagine your dealer could order you some new ones or try scrap yards for used ones.

I would check in the car handbook, it may be it is designed to automatically go onto recirculation when on full to cool the car quickly and is therefore working normally.

Thanks Iannez. I fit the new front discs and pads today, straight forward enough and no problems. Old discs were down to 11.2mm from 13 and pads were down to 6mm so they were due for doing, better now than in winter. Car on 36k miles, 7 years old but mostly short trips. When pushing in the piston I opened the bleed nipple on each caliper to let out the excess brake fluid, rather than pushing it back into the hydraulics, since jojo42 has reported an abs problem possibly through not doing this. I did notice the rubber bushes on the lower suspension arms are starting to perish so this may account for a clonking noise and could be my next job. Eurocarparts do a complete arm with bushes and ball joint for about £40 so I will have to check Citroens price. I usually prefer the dealer parts since they fit better and last longer.

I can not help but can you give more info on your car - year, model, engine, mileage, any recent servicing.

Welcome to the forum. There is a recent identical posting on the technical page by SteveOMG. Possible solutions posted are new suspension spheres (£75) or a strut leaking and needing replacement.

I would save the jelly in a sealed glass jar for your customer to claim against the petrol station (or is it some of the home made stuff ?). You may have to give them a bit of a report on what you found. It sounds as though it must have come in with the fuel so part of a contaminated batch (low storage tank level, delivery tanker previous load not cleaned out ?) and there are likely to be more people with the same problem.

I had forgotten about the membership, they are 2 separate sites each requiring registration but you should still be able to do a search. I have just had a quick look and there are all sorts of possibilities listed such as wheel out of balance/damaged - if they are alloys they may not have a normal size hole in the middle so need a special adaptor to be balanced, loose undertray, loose engine cover (the rubber fixings break - they did when we had a Picasso), loose exhaust heat shield, crankshaft pulley, engine mount, suspension problem. You may be better going to a Citroen dealer or specialist to have it looked at.

If not already done, I would also post this/search on the separate Picasso forum. You can get to it via the home page link on the tool bar - Citroen owners club.

I think I have read something like this before, possibly on the C5 pages. It sounds as if fuel may be draining out of the fuel filter when the engine is stopped. It could be the fuel filter needs re-doing and its seals checking for correct fitting/damage - there may be a small gap/hole that seals under pressure but not vacuum - try and find where you can hear air being sucked in when using the pump that you have mentioned. A search on all the forums might also help.

It is about 3 years since I did a similar mod and it has not rained in since so you should be ok. I would still like to find a way of stopping the sides of the rear hatch pouring water in as I open it and then our car will be water tight.

Thanks Iannez. I have cleaned the paint off just on the pad contact areas (although it was not all the way across, just at the edges as overspray) and the hub contact area. Did I not need to do this and could I have just installed the discs straight from the box without any degreasing ? I will still put a bit of copper grease on the back of the alloys, they were difficult to remove when I first got the car.

Thanks John, maybe you are right and the paint should be left on. It is a pity there were no instructions with the discs. Hopefully Iannez may add a comment later. I never got to Halfords and saved £3, a nearer accessory shop WMP had Carplan cellulose thinners (xylene) for £3.49 for 500 ml (Halfords is expensive for most things these days). It has not helped much but a wire brush is removing the paint off the pad area followed by wiping with white spirit. The paint on the hub contact area comes off with emery paper and since the max runout is 0.05mm leaving the paint on could have caused problems. An internet search shows that Brembo also do some painted premium brake discs that do not need cleaning before fitting but their general instructions say to thoroughly clean the discs.

If only it was a plastic film, no it is silver paint. Using emery paper will remove it but then the surface is left scratched. Our local Halfords has cellulose thinners in stock at £6.49 for 500 ml so I will give this a try.

I am replacing the front brake discs on our 2003 C3 1.4sx petrol, and the new ones from Citroen have been painted rather than using a grease for corrosion protection. To remove it from the braking area I have tried white spirit/turps substitute, brake cleaner and carburettor cleaner but none of these solvents work. Anyone come across this problem before, what do dealers use or is it left in place but that would contaminate the pads ? I am going to try and get some cellulose paint thinners to see if this will work.

The recommendation to open the bleed nipple before pushing the piston back is also in the Haynes manual for the C3. Also to prevent problems with the master cylinder seals as well as possibly pushing dirty fluid into the ABS pump/valves. If it does not rain tomorrow I will be replacing the front pads and discs on our C3 (MOT advisory) so I intend to learn from your unfortunate experience, thankyou for posting it.

Just been looking on the Citroen Service website (www.service.citroen.com where you can register and view the same parts drawings as your dealer. You can also pay for additional information.) and the part is available from Citroen.

Do not know about the display but has your fuel tank moved sideways - I would look underneath to see if its fastenings are ok.

Welcome to the forum. 1. The coolant level in the expansion tank should not go down so I suspect you may have a leak somewhere which needs to be checked. Leak possibilities can include the expansion tank cap not fastened, the bleed screws not sealing (located at the right side of the engine cylinder head and also on a heater hose at the bulkhead), water pump seal leaking, radiator leaking, hose leak, cylinder head gasket failure, overheating and the water boiling out of the expansion tank cap. Following is based on the Haynes manual for the petrol engines. To drain the coolant, you need to remove the bottom hose from the radiator. Also opening the 2 bleed screws will help. Refill the system through the expansion tank, open the 2 bleed screws to let out air and close them when coolant starts to run out. When filling, to get all the air out, the coolant level in the expansion tank needs to be the system highest point - Haynes allows a higher level by inserting the top half of a 1 litre bottle in to the expansion tank with a seal whereas Citroen use a header tank. 2. The fuse for the 12 volt socket should be in the fuse box below the steering wheel (LHD car). Check in the car handbook but it may be fuse 22 and of 30 amp rating. The fuse box may need to be pulled down to access but I have never done this before.

Sorry, it is not the right wiper but the left with the grommet on that is over the air intake so no need to bother with the right one. The water that gets in does not seem to make it to the pollen filter and normal air con drain but escapes through the foam padding where the air intake is fastened to the bulkhead and runs down the inside of the bulkhead.

Another common problem. Citroen have designed the cabin air intake under the scuttle so that rain goes through the right wiper grommet or even down the windscreen and drips into the air intake. It then runs back and out of a joint so it runs down the inside of the bulkhead and around your feet. Sealants do not help so I cured this by putting a cover over the air intake, there is a post on this plus I can e-mail you some pictures if required. Try searching on wet footwell. From memory, to remove the ears - the coloured plastic parts at the bottom of the windscreen pillars, remove the bolt at the bottom which is hidden by a bit that pulls/levers up/off, then gently pull the part sideways to the middle of the windscreen so a locating peg comes out of a sleeved hole in the windscreen pillar. I broke these pegs off and ended up buying new parts. In the Haynes manual there are pictures of this under wiper motor removal page 12.15. Once the scuttle bolts are removed, slide it down off the windscreen to avoid breaking off locating lugs on the back (from memory).

If you look at the Problems and Fixes subforum there is a pinned post with the info you need on the rear brakes. They will probably need the caliper/subframe joint cleaning and greasing every couple of years or when the squealing noise comes back.

google search on P0480 code appears to be something with cooling fan not working. So is the engine fan working when the car warms up ?

I have just seen an article on the C2 in the March 2010 Car Mechanics. It lists other C2 forums which may explain the lack of postings on this site. Namely C2club.co.uk and C2sportsclub.com - both with www first. If you have a look on these 2 sites there are thousands of posts.

I had to replace this diaphragm (Citroens name for the complete part) last week since the plastic cup had broken, not sure when since there were no warning messages or poor running except recently I had been getting good fuel economy. It was a pig to replace and £30 at a dealer noted above is a bargain if they have replaced the complete part and not just the cup. I did try just replacing the cup but the rod was starting to bend as I tried to remove it. Edited 26/7/2010 after fitting new screws - 1 was lost and the torx part of 1 was damaged whilst tightening - I would suggest getting a set of new screws before starting, they are only 6p each from Citroen: You need a long T20 torx screwdriver, at least 40 cm to reach the screws. I ended up making one by welding a T20 bit onto a long 10mm rod since using the bit in a socket set all the fittings were too wide so the bit could not reach sideways on to the screw heads. I removed the air filter box cover including the flowmeter leaving them on the fuse box (to avoid undoing the electrical connector), the bellows section, the air filter, the bolt holding the air pipe behind the filter and disconnected (unbolted) the breather pipe at the end of the cam cover and unclipping it from the front support clip - all to give room for access. Stuff a tissue in the gap at the lower edge of the diaphragm fastening plate so loose screws are not lost. With the diaphragm 3 screws removed (and not lost down the back of the engine on to the suspension system) you can reach down the back of the engine with your left hand to pull off the flex pipe whilst holding the part body with your right hand. Fit the flex pipe first to the new diaphragm to help hold it in place. Refitting the left hand screw nearest the engine is not easy - a magnetised torx bit was not much help but holding the screw in a strand of house wire (2.5mm) to position it and then start tightening with the driver, then pull off the wire, worked although still awkward and you still have to locate the driver into the screw head with a finger on the screw. Machine Mart have an extending screwdriver in their latest catalogue which it says goes to 44 cm for about £7 so this may do if anyone fancies this job plus it has a built in LED to light up the area. The diaphragm was about £19 from Citroen.

I do not wish to high jack the original posting subject but there are some good ideas being raised. We are being blessed by a lot of welcome new members recently who maybe do not think about searching, a pinned note on each page on how to search (if it is not obvious) or one that goes to new members may help. Maybe we could consider a pinned post on common problems.