paul.h

The ETAI manuals are just in French, but not really a problem as the pictures are good, and things like torque values are the same but in dNm so x10 = Nm. A small French dictionary does help though for a few of the common words to start with. They can be obtained from the ETAI web site amongst others.

Welcome to the forum. Should be easy enough. The pistons need to be wound back (opposite directions each side) to fit the thicker pads. Some copper grease where they contact the calipers will stop them seizing.

Welcome to the forum. How many miles has the car done ? I guess you have read many posts here, a common one seems to be replacement of the exhaust particle filter and filling up the eolys fluid.

The problem with the wet footwell is the cabin air intake is below the driver's wiper spindle grommet so any rain that gets through drops into the intake box underneath the scuttle and runs down into the cabin. Applies also if any gets under the plastic scuttle at the bottom of the windscreen. I sorted it by removing the intake box, putting a wall of sealant inside at the lower back edge, put a lot of drain holes in the bottom of the intake in front of the wall of sealant, put sealant on the foam in the bulkhead where the box attaches so the foam is not porous and sealed the box where it attaches to the bulkhead. Then I fastened a metal plate over the intake box front mesh fastened to the wiper left bolt so any rain that got passed the grommet or scuttle is deflected away. I also sealed the scuttle against the glass and sealed the grommet in its hole and packed it with grease against the spindle. This was at the end of last year and it has lasted, unlike just sealing the scuttle and grommet which was first tried.

Welcome to the forum. I have not noticed our C5 is any different to other cars (maybe there is a problem with the pedal). How have you managed previously ? If not already fitted, the rubber mats are quite thick and would lift your foot without getting in the way of the pedals.

Pleased you got it sorted and was only £13.99 in the end. I think we all learned alot as well.

We had a dry day on Saturday so I used the washers and checked the washer pipe joints and they were damp, it appears the plastic pipe joints could be prone to leaking and dripping onto the injectors. The pipes also had water stains on them. I had some rubber pipe so I replaced the plastic sections to the washer jets with longer lengths of rubber and cut back the common supply so the T-piece was at the side of the bonnet. Hence the only remaining plastic joint should not drip on the injectors. I also put a bit of silicon sealant on the 2 small holes at the top of the injectors in case of any other water source. So to prevent the problem recurring I have - sealed the washer jet to bonnet joint with black sealant (saves 2 new jets to get the rubber seal at £2.98 each). - replaced the plastic washer piping with rubber to give leak free connections and also moved the T-piece away from the injectors. - sealed the small holes in the top of the injectors. If Citroen had positioned the washer jets 1 inch forward or backward of the existing location this problem is unlikely to have happened.

To convert bar to psi multiply bar by 14.5 e.g. 2.1 bar = 30.5 psi 2.3 bar = 33.5 psi 2.5 bar = 36 psi 2.7 bar = 39 psi.

On our last Saab the radio stalk went through a main control unit before it went to the radio. It had a wiring connector at the steering column so if the C5 is the same you could try unplugging it.

If you have a twin electric towbar fitted i.e. the grey one for a caravan, then you will have a reversing light connection to that. Should be the yellow wire to terminal 1 (the top one) on the 12S socket. You could wait until the towbar is fitted and then connect to that. It may not be a good idea to wire direct from the car rear lights (but would be ok from the towbar wiring), for the towbar I had to use relays. Might be worth doing a posting on fitting reversing sensors for some advice on this. I have the C5 ETAI French manual and it tells you how to remove the rear bumper (probably too late for you now). For the hatchback: 1. Remove the rear lights. 2. Remove the 2 screws at the front bumper edges in the rear wheel arches. 3. Under the bumper at the 2 ends remove the 2 screws and slacken the one in the middle. 4. Inside the car in the rear light openings there are 2 screws (bolts) to remove just below the hole. 5. Use a second person to help remove the bumper. The estate is similar except the rear light removal is not needed since the bumper bolts are on the outside. The ETAI manuals are worth getting. They can be ordered direct from ETAI in France via their website. They are like a Haynes but with good photos and drawings. You need a French dictionary but it is possible to follow the instructions near enough without.

Last year I fit a towbar to my mark 1 C5 and this involved removing the lower black skirt. The 2 end fasteners I remember as being very awkward being inside the bumper, probably about 10mm nuts. I had to get into the back from underneath and sort of up and back down whilst bending the end of the plastic out of the way - confused ? - I can not remember much more. Using a torch feel up inside the bumper following the black plastic to find the fasteners. If you do a post on removal of lower bumper panel to fit a towbar you may get some more replies.

We have had 2 injectors replaced this week on our 2003 1.4SX petrol. Covered under the breakdown warranty which came with the car. One morning last week, when I started the car the engine management light came on and the car had a misfire. Heavy rain the day before but this may be a coincidence. The washer jet with the part no. above is a normal one with a thin rubber disc under it which seals the hole in the bonnet. I bought one but then decided to use silicon sealant instead under the existing washer jets since I think this will give a better result - simply pushed the jet up out of the bonnet (need to squeeze together the front thin tabs whilst pushing) with the pipe connected, gave the jet and bonnet a clean, bit of black sealant and pushed it back in place. I will also check the pipe joints are not leaking since the pipe is hard plastic. I read in a note from Iannez on these injectors that the new ones have white sealant in the 2 little holes at the top to keep out water and that he seals the existing ones also. The new ones on our car do not have this but I may do this anyway to prevent a future problem.

Welcome to the forum. Eco mode is on all our Citroens, it is designed to prevent the battery going flat. After the engine is off, if something electrical is in use such as radio or interior light, then these are switched off after 15 to 30 minutes and the car is then in eco mode. They will not come on again until the engine has been started. There is nothing wrong unless the interior light does not go out after closing the doors (or boot light or radio not turned off, etc). The car handbook should have some info.

Flatiron, So this does not happen again, it is worth checking for water ingress. Are the carpets getting wet at the drivers side ? If the lower windscreen scuttle and drivers wiper spindle are not sealed then rain goes in to the cabin air intake which sits just below the grommet. The scuttle being plastic expands/contracts a lot with the sun so the sealant needs to be flexible. I sorted my car by putting a plate under the grommet to direct water away, put drain holes in the air intake and put lots of sealant on the intake where it connects to the bulkhead and sealed the scuttle against the glass.

To remove the speedo/rev counter panel, use similar to 2 plastic credit cards (so no damage) and push under the lower trim at the point where there are 2 tiny holes, to release the clips, then try and pull the lower edge forward.

Copy of a note I posted last year after wiring up our hatchback (estate may be a bit different) - found by doing a search on towbar. ---------------------------------------------- I wired up a towbar on 04, 2.2 VTR this year. The wiring kits will explain which wires go where, as KFK notes, use a 7-way bypass relay for the 12N socket and 12S socket reversing lights. Life will be easier if you use a Citroen kit. At the back of the boot, under the plastic trim and carpet there is a trailer socket for the 12N lighting - I did not use this due to cost of Citroen parts and also the voltages were odd and not 12V. Instead I used the blue connectors to tie in to the lights to each car rear light and took these to the bypass relay and then the 12N and 12S sockets. I will add the lighting wire colours later. I could not find any 12V supply in the boot with a high amp rating so the 12V positive supplies to the bypass and charging relays I took direct from the car battery clamp bolt, through a large wiring grommet into the car at the left passenger footwell (this was the difficult bit - first part pushed a welding rod through and fastened the cable to this and pulled it through with lots of WD40, removed windscreen plastic scuttle to improve access) and along the left side of the car into the boot - each wire needs to be at least 21 amp with 15 amp fuses at the battery end. An earth point in the boot was used for the earth wires - again use 21 amp for the 12S socket. Once wired up and checked, I stuck the relays to the back and side of the boot using sealant. Rear light wiring colours: left hand - orange - left indicator * - white/grey - fog - white thick - stop - yellow - left tail * - white thin - reverse right hand - end grey - fog * - blue - right indicator * - white (next to grey) - right tail * - white (next to blue) - stop * - grey - reverse * The ones with a * are the ones I connected to the 7 way relay with blue snap connectors.

With climate control you can set the temperature and this is achieved automatically. With air conditioning you adjust the warm air yourself.

Do the doors lock with the dash button or with the second key fob ?

On a Saab 9-5 (our previous car) the steering wheel air bag and radio controls have a rotating wiring connector on the steering column in the back of the steering wheel. It has a coil of wire in a case and allows the wheel to turn. These do not last forever and I had to replace it since the radio controls wire had snapped but it is also common for the air bag wire to break. There will be something like this on the C5 and that may be your air bag problem.

Welcome to the forum. If your car is a mark 1 (not sure about mark 2): - the right hand stalk (wipers) end button scrolls through the computer mpg etc. - the front brake pistons need winding in if new pads are fitted - the 2 sides turn in opposite directions. Not done this so do not know how easy it is without the special 2 pronged tool. I was thinking of making one with a bar and 2 small bolts fastened to it to go in the slots in the piston. - particle filter on exhaust only fitted to 2.2 hdi.

every time a door is operated the rear screen wiper activates!!!! This probably means the locking system is either providing an earth or a supply to the wiper motor. Either way, if the locking wiring is not the same amp rating it may burn out. Something to sort out.

This sounds about right. On our Picasso 2.0 hdi I have never noticed the glow plug light and on our C5 2.2 hdi this time of year if you blink you miss it.

You could try to move the claw across with a screwdriver in to the open position, then if this works shut the screen.

On mine (2004 mark 1 VTR) the automatic is the first position on the wiper stalk, other positions are off, slow and fast speeds.

Does the auto locking work on all C3s ? We have a 2003 1.4SX and I can not get it to work. Holding the dash lock button down just does one lock or unlock. Have tried with/without the engine running and the ignition key in the different positions.