paul.h

How much was the eolys fluid ?

2 things also to consider, the pads will need about 200 miles to bed in and (not sure about this) after winding in the piston to give room for the new pads, either using the foot brake or the handbrake may take time/a number of applications to wind the pistons back out.

Welcome. Only 2 things I have sorted are a wet drivers footwell (rain going through the middle wiper grommet or behind the windscreen lower plastic scuttle drips into the air intake and gets in the car) and rear brake squeal (caused by corrosion between the caliper and suspension arm). Both are not major problems. The French ETAI workshop manuals are worth getting (plus a dictionary) since Haynes do not do one. The pictures are good, give all torque settings, worth getting the mark 2 C5 one also since a lot is common to both models and the pictures are better. Amongst other places, www.culture-factory.fr sell them.

Welcome to the forum. Questions for both of you, what year car and engine type - petrol/diesel and size. should help us give some replies.

Does anyone know if the economy mode interval can be adjusted by the dealer ? On our previous Saab this was possible. My C5 goes into econ mode after about 15 minutes, some here have mentioned one hour, on our Picasso it does this after about 30 minutes. Econ mode also turns off the internal lights so when the doors are opened the light does not come on - something else to check. If it can be adjusted then maybe in this case it has been set at 0 minutes.

Had a slight twist to this rear brake squealing problem, one of the caliper retaining bolts snapped on refitting. All the warnings from kfk about this being a problem job due to the loctite are fully justified. Here is the saga. (2004, 2.2 hdi, hatchback mark 1, 23k miles). Rear drivers side squealing on gentle brake application which just applying copper grease to the pads did not cure. On close inspection the disc was not central in the caliper. 18 inch breaker bar was enough to undo the caliper bolts against the locktite in the caliper. After pad removal refit the pad retaining bolt tightish. Undid the caliper bolts with the breaker bar just enough to clear the suspension arm and was able to move the caliper enough without disconnecting the brake pipe (to save bleeding). Lots of corrosion between the arm and caliper, removed with a file and applied copper grease. Refit caliper without much bother although the bolts were tight due to the locktite and required effort to turn. For completeness then started the other side, found no corrosion but still applied grease. On this side the bolts were even tighter to turn and on doing up one snapped. Appeared the threads had cross threaded but I did not notice due to the loctite. Anyway, fully removed the caliper - had to saw off the broken bolt between the caliper and suspension arm. Loss of brake fluid stopped by a bleed nipple cover over the end of the brake pipe. Then drilled out the bit left in the suspension arm but threads were not recoverable. Hammered out the bolts from the caliper and drilled out the locktite. Applied copper grease in the caliper bolt holes and to the bolts so they do not corrode - I suspect this was the reason for the loctite. The caliper bolts are grade 10.9, M10 diameter, 150mm long with metric fine threads, usual high tensile bolts are grade 8.8 which are not as strong. So far I have been unable to get a hex head bolt long enough (160mm) to fit through the suspension arm with a nut on the back that is grade 10.9 so I have used a cap head bolt (allen key type) that is grade 12.9 with a nut on the back. Grade 12.9 is stronger than 10.9 so is ok but looks different. I bled the brakes using a Gunsons easibleed with pressure on the reservoir - worked well and also did the clutch (awkward from under the car). At 3 years it should have been due a change of brake fluid so time not wasted. However, without the code reader/scan tool it is not possible to operate the abs system to change the fluid fully so I will get that done at the next dealer service. The rear brake pads took a couple of weeks to bed back in again since they had slightly worn at an angle but with 7mm minimum left they will be ok for a year or 2. After several weeks the squealing has not returned.

In the end I overcame this problem by putting a strap vertically round the middle of the headrest to squash it by about 1 inch. It seems to be filled with a spongy material.

If it is a mark 2 then you should still be under the 3 year warranty, if so a trip to the dealer will save you some money and maybe time.

There have been notes on this before, seem to remember there is a pin that breaks or moves in the lock that causes the lock to not work. Worth trying a search for the exact details.

Welcome to the forum. I suspect you have not had any replies since an auto 3 litre petrol C5 is probably quite rare. I may be wrong, but most of the posts appear to be for diesel models. We have a 2004 2.2 hdi hatchback and I am pleased with the car, owned for nearly a year, 6300 miles and now on 23 kmiles. So far no problems. Any specific questions on the C5 (other than the 3 l auto) will, I am sure, generate some comments from members of the forum.

You may find it is covered as part of the 3 year warranty so no need to pay for repairs.

Thinking a bit more about this, the pump is more likely to make the lights less bright as it takes power from the battery and drops the voltage. Something that makes the lights brighter must mean a higher voltage (or main beam bulbs lighting ?), possibly a poor connection improving over a bump, or an alternator voltage regulator problem. Try measuring the battery voltage with and without the engine running. Without should be about 12½ volts and with about 14 volts - much more than 14 indicates an alternator problem.

Does it do it if you get in and out of the car with the lights on and close the door ? Then you will hear the pump as the car levels itself and see the lights.

Same engine but 6 speed (able to use 6th above 45ish mph). On 21k miles. To work and back with quite a bit of queuing, 7½ miles in 20 to 30 mins, gives about 42 mpg. On motorways in summer about 50 to 53 mpg but with queues can drop to about 48 mpg this time of year. Towing the caravan gives about 30 to 32 mpg keeping to about 55 mph on motorways. Last week did Warrington to Hull on M62, gave 50 mpg going and 46 return so average 48 mpg. Going about 30 mins and return 45 mins of queues at Manchester and Leeds. Stuck to speed limits where possible but averaged 38 mph over the 230 miles from the car computer. These figures have been constant over last 6k miles and confirmed near enough when filling up. The computer is reset every few weeks. Do not have an agressive driving style which can waste fuel. Do not bother with the cruise control. So if it is the particle filter that is causing your poor fuel economy then it has a pay back in sorting it. Also worthwhile looking in your handbook for the expected fuel consumption figures.

Behind the battery is a fuse box, could be in there. There is also a fusebox at the left in the glove box.

Finally sorted this with a few mods. It appears the car has been designed so that if water gets under the windscreen plastic scuttle or through the wiper grommet, it goes straight into the car air intake which lets it run into the car. Bit hard to describe but the air intake is a plastic box clipped to the opening in the bulkhead. The front of the box has a mesh which slopes forwards towards the bottom. The bottom of the box is level/slightly sloping down to the bulkhead. The grommet is above the mesh. Hence any water which falls above the box goes inside and runs to the back and then through the bulkhead. The airconditioning unit is held to the other side of the bulkhead with a foam seal - the water runs to the foam seal which is not watertight and then down into the car and your feet. Few things here which could have designed out the problem - the box could have sloped down to the front so water drained out, the box could have had some drain holes, mesh front could have sloped backwards towards the bottom so water could not have got in the box, better seal of the scuttle, wiper grommet not positioned over the box (as left hand drive). Problem sorted by: - lower edge of foam seal covered in silicon sealant so any water getting this far goes into the air conditioning system and leaves by the proper drain. - drain holes put in the bottom of the box and a wall of sealant put at the rear to stop any water going straight passed. - lot of sealant put on the box to bulkhead seal in case any water runs down from above. - a metal plate put under the wiper spindle/grommet. Fastened to the wiper left hand bolt and bent under the spindle and going over the top of the box so any water going through the grommet goes on the plate and runs off further forward and not in the box. - sealant covering the large joint along the bottom of the space below the wiper unit just in case any water was getting in here. - sealant put in the ends of the plastic channel that clips to the bottom of the windscreen in case water gets in and runs out over the box, - scuttle refitted with sealant the full width of its front edge against the windscreen and then pushed back into the plastic channel. - wiper grommet sealed to the scuttle and internally filled with grease. The wiper unit itself needs some adjustment so the spindle is in the middle of the grommet but this will have to wait since it needs removal of the scuttle again. It may need the cross bar bending slightly since there is no adjustment in the fixings. I took some pictures and if I can find out how to attach these will do so later. Of these the important ones were sealing the scuttle and the plate below the wiper grommet although a modified box could have prevented the problem if Citroen would make one.

The C5 is the best car we have had for towing (2.2 hdi manual). Our caravan is about 1100 kg as towed. Previous cars have been Saab 900 / 9000 / 9-5 and Picasso. Nice and stable (always used a blade type stabiliser), about 30 mpg towing, car a lot heavier than caravan which helps stability, always level, loads of room in car for luggage, tows well in 6th gear on motorways. The towing mirrors I use are the strap on type (convex mirror) and they fit better with the straps crossed. One negative is the seat could do with a lumbar support.

For the hatchback I fed the towbar socket wiring through existing grommets in to the spare wheel well so no need to remove the bumper. After fastening the wiring to the relays I stuck these to the wheel well wall with sealant - I have done this on other cars in the past and it makes for a neater installation. Access to the lighting wiring was by removing the rear plastic cover at the bottom of the hatch opening, removing the rear light back cover/bulb holders and pulling back the side carpets. There is a trailer socket under the rear plastic but it gave odd voltages - maybe a Citroen kit fits to this without problems. For the 12v+ battery supply I ran 2 21amp wires from the battery clamp bolt, through a large wiring grommet at the left end of the bulkhead that can be seen through the plastic scuttle drain slots (this was a pain, in the end I removed the plastic scuttle below the windscreen to help access, pushed a welding rod through the grommet and fastened the wires to it to pull the wire through being carefull not to damage existing wires. WD40 spray helped the wires go through, also towbar socket wires through boot grommets.), down the side of the car under the top sill plastic covers in the wiring channel and into the boot. The fuses need to be at the battery end in case the wiring becomes damaged. The length of wiring needs to be about 6m each run. I used an existing earth point in the corner below the left rear light. A lot of effort and time, I would be interested to know how a towbar fitter would do this, maybe run wires under the car ?

Same for the hatchback - I fit a Towtrust towbar and only had to remove the bumper lower black panel which then needed some cut outs so it could be refit. The 12v+ supply for the 12S smart relay and 12N lighting 7-way relays I took direct from the battery (fastened at the clamp bolt) with 21amp cables and fitted 15amp fuses at the battery end. The earth cables connected back to the car also need to be 21amp for the fridge and battery charging.

You may be able to get the trim off with the door shut (not done this myself). From the French ETAI C5 book looks as if following applies: Pull off top rear black plastic triangle, remove plastic cover behind door handle, remove pull handle - cover then screws holding to door, remove speaker grill and speaker to get at screw behind, now should be able to pull off trim which is held on by clips at the outer edges - would normally use a lever between the trim and door.

Have a look on this forum on particulate filter or anti pollution fault, there are a few notes. Costs seem to vary, looks as if the eolys oil is filled up, particulate filter in the exhaust is replaced by a regenerated one and then the car computer needs a reset. Values around £700 are quoted. It is a dealer only job as well. Sorting this may solve the other problems.

My 2004 C5 (old model) when stationary will adjust the height after something has been done to alter it such as getting in /out, putting something in/out of the boot, hitching the caravan on the back. The adjustment happens once the door is shut and only takes a few seconds. It also adjusts when the doors are unlocked with the remote. If you had to set the height at the lowest setting when leaving it for some time I am sure it would say this in the car handbook and if it was meant to continually adjust when not in use the battery would go flat.

Welcome to the forum. Originally fitted to just the 2.2 diesel. On new model is fitted to the 2.0 diesel, not sure about the 1.6.

I can not remember exactly how I switched the automatic lights option off but it involved the light switch and holding it in a position for a while, probably with the engine running. Lights only now come on when the switch is turned. Repeat to re-activate the automatic lighting. The sensor is somewhere around the outside of the windscreen, I think at the bottom, so the windscreen needs to be clean to let daylight through to the sensor. The sensor at the top middle I think is just for the automatic wipers. Have you had a replacement windscreen at some time ?