Randombloke

The damping as far as I understand it is done by the LDS, which is constantly being refreshed. If it's overly soft then it may be that bushes, drop links or other suspension mounts are worn. With H3 it should limit roll on corners too. Again, that might be problem with the anti roll bar. Never know the spheres be too soft.... Check the tyre pressures and if need be go up by 10% on the normal (not heavy load) ones. This should make a big different as Mk I/II C5 has the tyre pressures as part of the overall suspension compliance.

I tried an EOBD standard reader with my 2002 C5 2.2HDi after being told by the vendor on eBay it would work with my car, it didn't, and further investigation confirmed that the Engine Management System that far back was not EOBD compliant.

Time for a leak off test on the injectors?

Worth checking also that a back up battery in the alarm has not come to the end of its life and is draining the main battery...

Any lights on the dash? Error messages? Usually with Bosch fuel injection there is a low pressure code which will trigger the MIL on the dash. Cutting out and dying are often caused by the crank position sensor. You will usually get a code for this too. I'd check the cables to the crank position sensor and and the camshaft position sensor are in place first and not loose. Could also be a loose fuse in any of the fuse boxes, or an intermittent cable connection.

The older C5 has a much bigger boot, and from memory had a reversible cover on the base of the boot. If you mean the top cover, securing methods are very different and the newer C5 is much smaller. Up to 2007 it was much better load carrier, the 2008 -> is just a crap Audi copy.

Biggest problem I had with my 2.2 HDi was brake drag, removing front pads, cleaning out and copper slip could push mpg from 39-41 up to nearly 50 on long runs. Never had it de-FAPed or chipped, and that fuel figure was with the earlier 5 speed box.

Which engine?

A number of things, could be a dodgy connector as there are so many things faulty. Could be worth a BSI reset (look on the site, it's a pinned topic in one of the forums) Could be a duff battery.... I'd start with the MAF sensor (in the feed from/to the air cleaner) chase that back and see what it went through on its may to the engine management. That would show a diff connector if there was one. Alternatively, you could clear all the codes and see which ones come back.... What year is your C5? If it it's the latest shape it could be the fuse box inside the engine bay, had this on mine.... shed loads of codes... fuse box replaced at large cost, but sorted. This would have been best in the C5 forum....

Buy one of these and run with it in the cigarette lighter as a first option. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ZnPwzT-DL.jpg As second option look at the earth lead from the battery to the car body and gearbox, just had to replace mine as it was corroded with copper sulphate residue in some areas.

The software is written for Europe where all post codes are five digits. Maps on the Navidrive leave a lot to be desired. Worth checking the madness against a smartphone with something like Google Maps.

I have just had a judder fixed, worn drive shaft UJ, please see this thread: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/14240-c5-22-hdi-slight-shudder-on-medium-acceleration/

Report back: The o/s drive shaft UJs were badly worn, the drive shaft has been replaced and the problem is fixed.

Pull off the top plastic cover for the engine and look for leaks from the pump or low pressure returns on the injectors.

I've got this problem on C5 tourer and there are no codes, looks like the drive shaft UJs are worn. It's being done now will report back.

Plan B if the EGR valve fails is to blank it off whilst you decide how to fic it. Plates from £3 on eBay.

Anti roll bar links?

Could be the DMF. Do you get the engine oil level correct advice on switch on?

Got Dunlop Blue Response on my other car (Accord). Real result!

Most EGRs have to be coded into the vehicle when replaced. This is a main dealer or clever person with Lexia type job. Someone who knows will be along to correct me, but last time I had a duff EGR replaced it gave me intermittent fault codes until it was coded into the vehicle.

Had a problem with this earlier this year, partially solved, the negative battery cable somewhat corroded and showing signs of Copper Sulphate, replaced cable and Eco mode is now occasional. May replace positive cable too, but beware cable is massive expensive for what it is...

The C5 will be the last. Over the last ten years their (PSA in general) reputation for unreliable and expensive electrics has done them no favours, the ever so costly and main dealer reset only Eolys, and loads of other stuff. Unfortunately the fairly expensive DS versions against Dacias isn't a good sale, and in the long run they'll probably slide down the popularity ladder. Without a big Citroen estate, that market slowly goes to other manufacturers. Somewhat ironic just as active suspension and ESP/ASR and the whole shebang are now mainstream.

First world problem. Load Chrome, Firefox, Safari or Opera in the most recent version to view the necessary. Internet Explorer is not the only browser, and has not existed for Macs for close on ten years. Alternatively, you could replace Windows with a non Microsoft OS, and save a fortune in software purchases.

Bad idea, it will soak into the belt eventually then into your clothes. Suggestive you look at something Silicon based instead, even the ironing aids might work better than WD40. Coastline posted something about this a fair while ago, please search the forum.

The fact it doesn't happen when the cruise control is on says to me that there is a worn spot on the accelerator potentiometer (throttle position sensor) where it gives intermittent changes in the resistance reading, or a loose wire. You've replaced the pot so maybe a loose wire or dirty contacts. Might be worth putting a resistance meter across the old throttle pot and measuring, and seeing if there is a point where the resistance reading jumps about. Worth finding out if the new throttle pot needs to be coded into the vehicle, I know with things like EGR valves a new one requires coding into the vehicle, until that's been done, diagnostic messages aplenty. Worth also checking the battery voltage....