Randombloke

What do you mean by "directional" Xenons? The directional, light shining round corners bit on the new C5 has nothing to do with them being Xenons. I have a new shape C5 Exclusive, it is hard to get them with all the Exclusive bits. However, on mine, without Xenons, the directional bit is done by the driving lamps and is set on/off in the car set up menus. The Xenons are complicated as they have to have their own levelling by law AIUI, and even with my previous Mk1 C5 with Xenons the headlights still levelled themselves despite the suspension, its all extra cost and complexity, ballasts and bulbs cost a fortune and can't easily be changed, the lights take a while to strike and get to full strength, I don't miss them. The new C5 in the Exclusive should have the directional lights bit a la DS. Real DS, not the PSA use of the name to attempt to sell lots of cars unlike the DS, with no hydraulic suspension or innovation.

You could look at the cost of buying the diagnostic kit to plug in, then you see the investment the dealers are trying to recoup. If you post a rough location, then forum members may suggest reliable independents who can help you. Worth checking that all the wires/connectors around the ABS sensors are tight and undamaged.

It's time for a complaint to Trading Standards.....

Plug it back in. Then either adjust the volume down to nothing or select manual mode.

I have had the Mk 1, driven the Mk 2 and now have a Mk 3 with H3+. The Mk 3 is so much better a drive, but is really only a BX sized car. For lugging stuff about, the Mk 2 is the best. It is much bigger inside than the Mk 3, but I find the performance even of the lowest power 2.0 136 HDi amazing, and with 50+ MPG on long runs without have to drive slowly. The Mk 1 simply isn't as well built or sorted as the Mk 2 but is much, much cheaper.

I did the update a long time ago on a Mk1 2.2HDi. The display said there was newer software on the CD, and asked if I wanted to update. Whilst the update was in progress there was a progress bar like the one you get with a software install, I watched it go to the end and then it said the job was done, and told me to press the "Eject" and the system would reboot. Progress bar like this: http://kb.epson-europe.com/pf/12/webfiles/Article%20Images/All-In-One%20Inkjet/SX405%20Wi-Fi/Edimax%20Mac%2016.jpg However, unless you have newer software than came with your vehicle, or you opt to change language or something like that, how do expect to see a difference? You are just installing the same thing over what you already have?

You need to check under the bonnet,it sounds as if they have disconnected the MAP or MAF sensors to do the service and have not connected them back up again. Had this on a 406 and it made the car quite sluggish. The MAF is on the air intake, I don't know where the MAP is. MAF=Mass Air Flow MAP=Manifold absolute pressure. MAF tells the ECU how much air is going into the engine, and MAP tells the ECU how much turbo boost there is. Coastline will be along soon with the correct answer.

Hi all, I'm looking for a C5 Estate in Exclusive or Exclusive SE. It's to replace my 2002 2.2 Exclusive SE so I'm prepared to wait for the right car. I'm after a Mk 2 in either 2.0 or 2.2. I will accept a VTX+ with the right bits, what I'm not prepared to do is to spend money and end with something no better than what I have now, having just had the rear swing arm bearings done. Mine is a 138hp 5 speed 2.2. It has 142k on the clock. The ideal car would be an 07 2.2 173 Exclusive SE Estate with low mileage. When I find a replacement the car mentioned above will be for sale. Any leads or anyone know of one for sale? I'm getting notifications from eBay and Autotrader. Any other suggestions? A lot of the 2.0l Exclusives are bit fake/low spec, no H3+, cloth seats, two line display, etc..... I'm not interested in one of these. There is quite a bit of tat about. I started a new topic so as not to take Coastline's request off at a tangent.

Good and bad news. On the older 2.2 where the EGR valve may be tired or badly designed or not working properly or worst, stuck open, the simple blanking plate you get on eBay takes 5 minutes to fit if you are an average car twiddler and seconds if you are a real mechanic. It improves response at light throttle openings, and fuel economy across the rev range and driving conditions. Fitting involves slackening off the two bolts that hold the end of the EGR pipe into the intake manifold, slipping the plate in and retightening. On a newer 2.0 with the 20k service intervals it seems to reduce the economy slightly, even though throttle response seems slightly better. If you have an older 2.2 with motorway economy below 43 mpg then try it, if it's better than that don't fit what isn't broken. My improvement was from about 42mpg on French motorways at 120kph to 46/47mpg at 125kph. For £3 roughly it's a simple and inexpensive thing if you end up having to throw it away. If it works it will be the cheapest fix you have ever done, as one of the previous posters has said. Just make sure you do the bolts up sensibly tight.

The 2.2 is 16v and DOHC. One cam is driven by a belt that comes up from the crank pulley. The second cam is driven by the first one via a short chain in the head. Older ones tend to break belts at about 90k. Going to the full 100k might be a mistake.

You can't do it officially, AFAIK. Someone may have a hack for it, but the earlier model C5s with sensors are stuck with them or the nagging message. Get used to it or get the sensors on eBay for £25 a piece. That was why I bought the sensors from an eBay trader who said with confidence they would fit and program up OK, and they did.

Reply in other thread you posted in

In the glove box there is a connector.

Early 2.2s are not good for fuel economy. The auto is worse. I have a friend with a well maintained 2.2 auto, same age as yours. On long runs with no town driving he gets 40-41 mpg. Biggest problem IME with the early C5s is binding brakes. Clean, and carefully copper ease the front pads + their carriers, and make sure anti rattle springs are not too strong. I got sick of doing this every 6 months on mine, and have replaced the front callipers to find I now get the best fuel economy I ever have. Long runs at 70 can get up to 46 mpg, at French motorway speeds (80) still 43.5. Mine is a 5 speed, not 6 speed manual. Also, make 100% sure that the tyres are correctly inflated.

The early 2.2 is not good on fuel, and the auto box simply heats up the transmission fluid rather than transmitting energy to the road wheels. My first port of call, and the thing that has always made most difference to my 2.2 manual is to free off the front brakes, and to reduce the amount of spring loading in the anti rattle springs to the point where they are just stopping the rattle rather than requiring that the pads be forced into the channels and are then jammed sideways by the overly keen springs. Doing this alone has seen me jump from 38/39 on long runs to 45mpg. My mate with the auto 2.2 never sees more than 40mpg. It should take you about 25 minutes per side. Unless the callipers are binding badly, you should not need the piston winding back tool, but I would have one standing by just in case, and if you every need to change the pads you will need to have one anyway. Don't forget to unplug the pads from the wear sensing cables, and have a couple of small cable ties standing by to secure the longer wear sensing wire when you put it all back. Tell us how you get on.

If you don't like Trafficmaster then turn the volume down to minimum - you won't be able to hear it. Set it to manual mode so it won't bleat except to ask for money. If you remove it be careful as it drives relays that flip the car speakers over from radio to TM. HTH.

Get it to a Citroen indy and get a diagnostic done. This is not an indirect injection engine, and glow plugs do not get activated above 0/-5 Degrees C (look for posts by iannez or kfk for correct temp) so starting except in the depths of Winter is nothing to do with glow plugs. Tired injectors, low fuel pressure would be my first ports of call. Second port of call would be to look for an air leak in the low pressure side of the fuel system. What does the battery measure?

I'm fussy about suspension especially on bikes. There is a very noticeable difference to me, especially with body roll on roundabouts or windy narrow lanes. 125,000 miles. no real issues except the rear glass opening (67,000 when I got it), swirl control valve at 80,000 and passenger side air con at 120,000. I cleaned mine with antiseptic cleaning wipes and it fixed the problem, it threatens to return every summer so I do the same. Trim is easy to fix, I always maintain mine in a good state so problems do not have a chance to worsen. Replace the switches or take them apart and fix them. The lights probably have the retaining clips broken off, again breaker or cheaply from an indy. On early C5s the antenna rusts solid, replace this and the base on the top of the car for a fix. If the hydraulics fail, then the handbrake is far more effective as an emergency on the front brakes. Had this happen on my mates GS and the handbrake was very effective. Buy the Passat, you know it makes sense. Six speed, 130 bhp, better than the C5 for fuel economy, and the family will love it. @DaveHerns - 110bhp 1.6 C5 painfully slow, and as Coastline says, they eat turbos. Probably easily fixed with 6,000 mile oil changes with fully or semi synthetic.

Check MAF sensor is not dirty and that there are no air leaks in the inlet to lose turbo pressure.

The wiper needs to be removed and the part underneath it replaced - it looks like the switch that opens the rear glass is missing. After this you will need a cover - that is also missing. Details of first part here: Fixing the rear glass release button Picture of complete part underneath wiper here: The top bush in this picture is from a broken wiper and needs to be removed by a diagonal cut then a screwdriver twist to remove. The brown and blue wires if shorted together allow the rear glass to open separately from the boot. If you need a picture of the cover ask on this thread. This has been covered before if you search.

Mine doesn't squat a lot. It sometimes alters height slightly at traffic lights though, has yours got a sticky height sensor? They are still made in Rennes. Look at the thread on the latest C5 and see how it's different. Smaller for a start. Do the wife and kids a favour and buy the best VW Passat you can afford. The C5 in Sport Mode (mine's a mark 1) is much harder and there is no body roll when you corner very hard, feels like it's on rails until the tyres squeal and it slides sideways. However, the rest of the family don't like Citroen, and in a Pavlov fashion then would be sea sick even if it had the nastiest rock hard suspension you can imagine. Sport mode drops out on mine when you turn the engine off and has to be set again on engine on.

There is a thread here with a lot of posts and also problems/good results with FAP removal: Ecu Dpf Removal (Remapping remove anti pollution system off ECU)

Have you checked the front brakes for binding? Have you measured the run out on the front discs? (This would affect your economy and shudder) Are there any fault codes for the injectors? (shudder) Have you completely checked the inlet side for air leaks (this would affect your performance). Checked out the EGR and the swirl control valve? Could it be a problem with the dual mass flywheel? Coastline, what's your take on this? Does it shudder when revved up whilst stationary with the gearbox in neutral? If so, it's engine balance. Have you asked then to run up the engine with the auxiliary belts disconnected? If you drop the car off at my house I'll put 2,000 miles on it for you. The shudder will surely get worse.... then they can fix it. Time to find a good indy and pay them for an opinion. You in South Shields? - pm Coastline.

Checked the height sensors/correctors aren't sticking?

Power steering or LDS reservoir full? Pulleys for auxiliary belts loose and touching something? Alternator bearings gone and belts slipping?