Randombloke

Be worth checking it's the right hand book, I have a Mk1 C5 and it was sold to me with a Mk2 hand book.

You could try cleaning the MAF sensor by squirting it with carburettor cleaner spray then compressed air, but don't touch it or you will probably damage it. Other issues with fuel consumption - check brake drag - older PSA cars are notorious for this. It's usually the front calipers. Double check for leaks in the inlet side of the system - any leak will reduce performance and increase fuel economy.

I would sort out the resistor pack first. Mine has just died, so it gets replaced tomorrow.

No. You're in a similar area, maybe it's time to meet Coastline Taxis. He can fix it for you or tell you who can, the radio has to be coded into the car. Be prepared to approach with John Smith's. Details here: coastline taxis

Have you considered a BSI reset?

Glove box or Near Side under bonnet near battery and BSI.

Why did you post this three times? It simply dilutes the forum and reduces its value.

Thanks for this, Brian!! The display was examined by my local indy and confirmed to be at fault. They simply put it back as no one has ever bought the display or ECU at the quoted prices. Since this happened (over 10 hours now with the engine running) the fault has not yet re-occurred. However, they also told me that a customer had the display refurbished as he would not buy a new one, and the refurbished one is much brighter than before the fix. I'm desperately trying to find the firm who did the refurb. If I do I will post here. I have been given this company ACtronics - Automotive Electronic Components as a possible but they only deal with trade. Any chance a trade indy could check them them out, please Coastline?

Unfortunately your car predates the universal £30 diagnostic boxes if it is diesel. If it's petrol, then it should work with the standard EOBD II boxes you can get on eBay, but check carefully first. You'll need to take it to a good Citroen independent garage, and get the fault codes read on the diagnostic, if it's diesel. Which "usual garage" was it taken to? Then you'll need to sort out the problems. Driver air bag faults can be the COM 2000 unit. This needs to be coded into the car, so isn't, AUIU, a DIY. It's about £400. I would advice you to simply get rid of the car if you are not going to get the problems sorted, especially if it's a 2.2, as the engine will eventually go into limp mode. You'll need to post more info for sensible advice. What engine type, and gearbox fitted. Measure the battery and make sure it is not low, as this can lead to spurious warnings. Also post a rough location of you want some advice for sensible places to get it fixed.

Make sure you check on eBay, that was where I got mine, I also have the manual mentioned above, recommended. This feature does not work on a lot of C5 estates because there is a common fault with the rear window glass. The official fix is about £400 but it can also be safely and very tidily fixed with black tape, 1.5 m of bell wire, and crimps or a soldering iron, total time 20-30 minutes. Ask or search for the PDF, or it can be mailed to you.

You are missing the permanent live that allows the radio to keep its memory. Really you need to find wiring diagrams for both old and new radio and your current car or you risk blowing something up. You are looking for a connector that remains alive after the ignition key is turned off. This wire is not connected/connecting to the right place on the radio you are installing. Worth seeing if the new cheap one you do not like remembers presets, then look to see if you have any paperwork for that. This might help you find the permanent live. Let us know how you get on.

Hi everyone, Have some problems with the display going dark, would like to eliminate a faulty bulb shorting the supply voltage to ground, has anyone ever changed the back light bulb(s) on the colour display on a Mk 1 C5 and where did you get the bulbs? Are they easy to change, or soldered into the unit itself? Any info gratefully received.

The Mk III estate is a poor copy of the Audi A4/6 estate with a smaller luggage area (AFAICT) than the Mk I and Mk II. Witness the pathetic "so very German" ad campaign. I'll be looking for an end of line Mk II Exclusive with either 2.0 or 2.2 HDi soon. Unfortunately, PSA are acquiring a reputation for very unreliable (and expensive to replace) ECUs. This is made worse by the need to configure them when they are replaced, and the fact that once VIN tied they may not be re-configured, so the breaker route is becoming limited.

You need to tell us which model as they have 3 or 4 different models of Sat Nav. Be worth checking that all cables are connected to the aerial - I have an estate so know how to so that, no idea about the saloon.

Sounds like the spheres are sh*gged. Put the suspension down to the lowest setting, take them off and either replace them or get them recharged. An indy Citroen place should be able to test them for you. If they really are sh*gged then they can't be recharged and will have to be replaced. Do you mean regulator or accumulator sphere? IF that's tired then the pump tends to have to work more often.

Post here: C5 Taxi Woes 2.2 d VTR, esp/asr antipolution etc You need to buy a Haynes manual. You need to remove the fuel level sensor in the tank, and check if it works properly. You could also connect an ohm meter across it and see if it's gone open/short circuit. Haynes manual says that the fuel sender/level sensor is integral with the fuel lift pump. When the tank is empty the sender should measure 360 ohms and full it should measure about 51 ohms. you will need to replace the fuel seal if you remove the pump. It needs either the Citroen tool or a home made special tool. If it is not working, then it is not telling the Eolys pump to inject, if you have a DPF equipped car. The door is probably a broken micro switch or a loose wire. The magnet might have fallen out of the door flap. Save yourself a lot of hassle. Find a decent Citroen indy repairer. Give a rough location on this forum and get some recommendations.

This has already been covered on this forum somewhere, I can't remember where and can't be arsed to search. Try the search function.....

Get a sniffer test done to see if there are any exhaust fumes in the coolant. Have a look and see if there is any visible leak from the water pump.

I have a suggestion for you. I had a similar problem with an old Corsa. Take a piece of very thick electrical cable from the battery direct to the +ve side of the starter motor solenoid. See if the cranking speed of your starter improves. I found I had a high resistance joint in the thick cable from the battery via alternator to starter motor, and on replacing it with a new cable in parallel my problems ended.

Remove fuses and buzz out with a multimeter. Sometimes they blow and you can't see it. Also buzz from non battery side of fuse holder with fuse removed to the power side of the switch. Check power on battery side of fuse with ignition turned on. See if there is a bigger fuse in the engine bay. HTH.

The brakes on Xantias, BXes and previous hydraulic Citroens have different feel to the normal servo, spongy brakes on other cars. If the car slows down as expected and the brakes work smoothly, don't worry about the pedal feel. Try and see if you can drive or feel the brakes on another Xantia or BX, they are very different from the C5, and also different from the GS/CX/XM generation cars. It won't feel like most cars. That's normal.

All four windows? Electric front only? Is there power on the window switches in the doors?

AFAIK the radio is coded into the car BSI. I would try a BSI reset (look for procedure on the forum) then reset the pinch settings on the windows if they still play up. Check that the battery is not low voltage. All sorts of random faults occur with C5s if it is.

The rear glass not opening is a very common problem. Search the forum for the answer. The main tailgate not opening is not so common, but seeing as both the main and glass tailgates are electrical in their opening modes, you have either got a blown fuse or a broken wire. You will need to buzz the fault out with a multimeter. My guess (if no fuses are blown) is that the power wire where it emerges from the roof lining and goes into the tailgate has fractured. It could also be the earth return for the same. I'd suggest you ask around for the electrical diagrams, and go from there.

Check that functioning DPF checks will not be part of the MOT from 2012 onwards. I heard a rumour, but that's all it is.