Randombloke

Worth doing what's already been suggested, but if the price is too high, send a PM to Coastline Taxis.

Can I assume it's an estate? Looks to me like there is damage to the wiring in the rear. Disconnecting the power to the rear was not the answer, there are threads on here explaining how to solve the rear button problem, complete with pictures, 20 minutes and minimal tools. Replace the rear glass release button. Fixing the rear glass release button Clear the rear wiring faults. If it's an estate, the trailer unit is probably underneath the trim to the left or right side of the boot. Next, before changing anything the integrity of all connectors and earths needs to be done. Also, after fitting the replacement part were all the fault codes cleared? It's also important if you want DIY to get the actual fault code number. For speedo problems, search the forum. The instructions for this fix have been typed many times.

Hi there. Is it an estate or a saloon/hatchback? In reverse order, Mid Kent Vehicles 01622 794499 or 0800 8409555. On the estate, this is usually the small button that does the tailgate glass. Lift the glass by itself, remove the plastic cover that covers the switch mechanism inside, and disconnect the two wires. Job done. The glass will no longer open by itself and you will need to replace the switch, but the car will now lock. If it's the main tailgate, then the switch/latch that fires off the courtesy light is damaged or stuck. Find it and lubricate/replace. HTH. If your car is an Exclusive Estate with a 2.0/2.2/6 speed HDi with under 100,000 miles on the clock pop round to my place and you can have £1,200 for it. :)

Hi Baz, Sometimes this happens because the intake manifold between the turbo and the engine inlet is not air tight. The air compressed by the turbo leaks away and the engine does not benefit. Look for an air hose with a jubilee clip off or not connected properly. Check all the hoses. Then maybe have a look to see if the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor is clear. It's easy to check it takes 10 minutes to get it off. Do NOT touch the components in the MAF sensor or you risk breaking them!

My first guess would be a blown back light as it's an LCD. Look very closely at it to see if there is the tiniest hint of any display. If there is but incredibly dim, it's a back light issue. The display shows general radio info, Sat nav and trip computer. You will need to get the diagnostics read and this is more expensive with the older cars (<2004) as they do not support EOBD. Newer cards can be read by a £30 pod IIRC. It could be the DPF, or maybe the swirl control valve, these tend to break on early 2.2 and are no too hard to fix with a replacement part. Yes, you can access last diagnostic message via the trip computer screen, but that is no good to you. Normally when the DPF is replaced the Eolys needs to be topped up and the ECU reset. If the DPF is blocked it's likely that Eolys is low or run out. However, seeing as you are not getting the warning all the time I will suggest you either get the codes read or check the swirl control valve. Also, you could read some of the posts here about regenerating the DPF by driving.

Looks to me like the 08/09 C5 is very much an Audi copy, it does not seem to have the rear load carrying space of the previous C5s. Floor pan seems to be similar to the 407, with the very long rear suspension arms from the same. Friends with the 407 bemoan the softer ride/poorer handling and admit to preferring 406 handling. Consensus of opinion seems to be that the conventionally suspended C5s are slightly softer round town, but that the H3+ ones are much better out on the open road. AFAICT there is no self levelling on the lower spec models with the coil springs. The one piece of advice that I would give you is to find a good dealer, or even better a good indy. Without these, I would not touch any PSA car. Again, I would suggest that Coastline's remarks about maintenance be taken to heart.

Crankshaft position sensor not working properly?

This would lead to the pedal being very stiff, not offering no resistance. No resistance is either fade with boiled brake fluid or air trapped in the system which needs to be bled. Seeing as your problem happened first thing I would suggest bleeding is needed.

Seen 3 2.2HDi engines with belts give up between 90k and 100k.

Get the battery tested. Make sure that if you disconnect the battery that the disconnection procedure is followed. Don't use a C5 with a dodgy battery, too much grief....

No. Details for the fix are here: Estate Rear Screen Non Opening The reason that glass does not open is that the two conductors that carry the short that occurs when you press the button are damaged. They are inside the window itself, but not part of the heater. You need to run a discrete cable to connect the button to the right wires at the top of the tailgate. It costs almost nothing and takes 20 minutes. If you are stuck send a mail to c5 at steveu dot org and I'll forward the PDF file to you.

Please can a mod move this post to the right area, thanks!

Only if your car has H3+, so mostly Exclusive models. At 110 km/h or over, the car lowers the front end 16mm and the rear 11mm IIRC, if the surface is smooth enough. This improves stability, and I assume it does this by creating more down-force. This is why I find that just below 110 km/h is a sweet spot for good fuel economy, as the extra down-force will also create more drag.

Scrap yards, eBay, ask Coastline.

Are the headlights set to come on automatically? If so I would start by turning this off. This may solve the problem. If it does it could be a problem with the light sensor.

Have a look on Black Cirles web site. You can opt for a fitted locally or delivered price.

Two easy things to check first: Throttle position pot - it might have an area that is worn. If you accelerate on the throttle and it happens but doesn't on cruise control, this is fairly surely the problem. Air mass flow sensor - could be dirty or need replacement. Do not touch the element - squirt with carb cleaner and blow dry with compressed air. Feedback please.....

He needs to search the forum and look at some of the other 8 threads where we have been through this before. IMV the answer is simple. Read this thread: C5 suspension problem Locate both height sensors and see if there is the opportunity for MECHANICAL adjustment. If not, then it can only be done via the diagnostic plug in tool. If there is a chance to mechanically adjust, then mark up existing setting, tweak, then see what happens. Before doing that, lubricate sensors to make sure it is not a simple problem that can be easily solved. Then report back to enhance the knowledge on the forum. People only ever ask but don't often feed back. Feedback gives good indication of which solutions are good and which are not so good. Then we need to moderate the threads in question so that all the different threads discussing the same faults are merged so that searching and using the forum becomes easier with no need to start new threads on old problems where the answers have already been given.

Might be worth checking that the height sensors are not sticky. A squirt with some WD40 followed by an excursion through the various ride heights might help, but it could make it worse. Otherwise, from memory the height adjustment is via diagnostic tool.

It has been mentioned, there are several threads but you will need to use the Search Function.

My C5 suffers the worst fuel consumption when it's got a bit of brake drag. Check the front callipers do not have any or very little drag. If there is any drag then clean the areas where the brake pads make contact with the calliper and use a small amount of copper grease to prevent it re-occurring. Make sure the tyres are properly inflated, This is another area where I've suffered poor fuel consumption. Even 0.1 to 0.2 bar makes a difference. Use your own digital guage, as some garages are miles out.

All hydraulic Citroens prior to the C5 have one pump which does the suspension, power steering and brakes, including ABS. The C5 has them all separate. If it's driven by the auxiliary belt off the engine, it's the power steering. I think the C5 uses conventional power steering fluid, but I have not checked this. The hydraulic pump is driven by the battery.

This might be the manifold (absolute) pressure sensor sometimes referred to as MAP. Turbo overpressure used to be connected to the diesel pump by a thin hose but is now measured by a sensor. I'd treat this sensor as suspect if I could find it. It might be over reading. That or there is a real problem cause by a jamming wastegate or similar. 2.2s have variable vanes turbos IIRC.

Depends on which model. On the Mk1 C5 the mirrors can be told to fold on locking and unfold on ignition on by pressing and holding the fold control on the driver's door for more than 5 seconds. Can't remember if you do it with the ignition off or on. I changed mine to fold after I got it, and turned on the "auto lights". Warning - if you set the mirrors to fold and your battery is tired, you must wait until the mirrors have folded all the way out before you start the engine. If you don't, the spike from the starting up will confuse the mirror and it will fold forward 90 degrees past the right position. DAMHIKIJD, ok?

That's pretty close to full. Some times you will find that as well as turning the fan up or down the climate control also changes where the air is directed as part of its control mechanism. The flaps aren't easy to reach IMV but there is a full guide posted somewhere on this forum about how to access them. It was posted with regard to a problem with excessive heat on the passenger side when the air con was at minimum temperature.