techbod

in most cases the sensor has to be broken to get it out due to corrosion, Is a sensor with a resistance of 2000 ohms likely to be working? no.

the fuel filter is in the center of the engine in front of glow plugs 2&3,

unfortunately no unless you go for a specific diagnostic tool like airbag/ABS breaks/emissions, memoscan do them but the price has to taken into account and not cheap. most handheld diagnostic tools only do the engine and tranny and the emissions system has its own ECM but if the fault puts the engine warning light on memoscan will turn it off ( 2001- and 2004- for diesel.

has it got the factory radio? if not it could be the CAN wire off so no way to connect to the port.

that link isn't anything to do with that I checked it out ( you checked it out when you were logged out ) or your computer is infested :unsure: .

all the answers have been given and best yet is coastlines iodea. "dont fix what aint broken" test the old one first!.

nice picture there mate and shows lack of interest what goes on under the bonnet ( you look after it and it will pay dividends and longevity ) you can eat your dinner of my engine lol.

many moons ago I made my own and used the old one as a template and use whatever colour that took my taste.

answered on you last post.

check the vacuum pipe is connected, places to buy are ebay dealer breakers eurocarparts.

Wheel speed sensors Preparatory conditions Check wheel bearings for excessive play. Adjust or replace as necessary. Check wheel speed sensors for mechanical security. Inspect wheel speed sensor rings visually for damage and cleanliness. Checking air gap Technical Data Air gap Not specified No adjustment of wheel speed sensor air gaps is possible. Checking resistance - front - Technical Data Terminals Wheel speed sensor Resistance 1 & 2 Left hand 1000 W approx. 19 & 20 Right hand 1000 W approx. Ensure ignition switched OFF. Disconnect ECU multi-plug. Check resistance between harness multi-plug terminals If resistance not as specified: Disconnect relevant wheel speed sensor multi-plug. Check resistance between wheel speed sensor terminals . If resistance as specified: Check wiring. If resistance not as specified: Suspect faulty wheel speed sensor. Repeat test for other wheel speed sensor. Checking resistance - rear - Technical Data Terminals Wheel speed sensor Resistance 5 & 6 Left hand 1000 W approx. 22 & 23 Right hand 1000 W approx. 21 & 23, some models Right hand 1000 W approx. Manufacturer: Citroen Model: Xantia 1,8 16V Ensure ignition switched OFF. Disconnect ECU multi-plug. Check resistance between harness multi-plug terminals . If resistance not as specified: Disconnect relevant wheel speed sensor multi-plug. Check resistance between wheel speed sensor terminals . If resistance as specified: Check wiring. If resistance not as specified: Suspect faulty wheel speed sensor. Repeat test for other wheel speed sensor. Checking voltage - front - Technical Data Terminals Wheel speed sensor Voltage 1 & 2 Left hand 0,1 V ac min. 19 & 20 Right hand 0,1 V ac min. Ensure ignition switched OFF. Raise vehicle. Disconnect ECU multi-plug. Adjust voltmeter to measure alternating current. Turn road wheel. Check voltage between harness multi-plug terminals . If voltage not as specified: Disconnect relevant wheel speed sensor multi-plug. Turn road wheel. Check voltage between wheel speed sensor terminals . If voltage as specified: Check wiring. If voltage not as specified: Suspect faulty wheel speed sensor. Repeat test for other wheel speed sensor. Checking voltage - rear - Technical Data Terminals Wheel speed sensor Voltage 5 & 6 Left hand 0,1 V ac min. 22 & 23 Right hand 0,1 V ac min. 21 & 23, some models Right hand 0,1 V ac min. Ensure ignition switched OFF. Raise vehicle. Disconnect ECU multi-plug. Adjust voltmeter to measure alternating current. Turn road wheel. Check voltage between harness multi-plug terminals . If voltage not as specified: Disconnect relevant wheel speed sensor multi-plug. Turn road wheel. Check voltage between wheel speed sensor terminals . If voltage as specified: Check wiring. If voltage not as specified: Suspect faulty wheel speed sensor. Repeat test for other wheel speed sensor. Checking wave form - front - Technical Data Terminals Wheel speed sensor 1 & 2 Left hand 19 & 20 Right hand Ensure ignition switched OFF. Raise vehicle. Disconnect ECU multi-plug. Connect oscilloscope between harness multi-plug terminals. Turn road wheel. Check wave form of wheel speed sensor. If wave form not as specified: Disconnect relevant wheel speed sensor multi-plug. Turn road wheel. Check wave form between wheel speed sensor terminals. If wave form as specified: Check wiring. If wave form not as specified: Suspect faulty wheel speed sensor. Repeat test for other wheel speed sensor. Checking wave form - rear - Technical Data Terminals Wheel speed sensor 5 & 6 Left hand 22 & 23 Right hand 21 & 23, some models Right hand Ensure ignition switched OFF. Raise vehicle. Disconnect ECU multi-plug. Connect oscilloscope between harness multi-plug terminals. Turn road wheel. Check wave form of wheel speed sensor. If wave form not as specified: Disconnect relevant wheel speed sensor multi-plug. Turn road wheel. Check wave form between wheel speed sensor terminals. If wave form as specified: Check wiring. If wave form not as specified: Suspect faulty wheel speed sensor. Repeat test for other wheel speed sensor. Manufacturer: Citroen Model: Xantia 1,8 16V Engine code: LFY (XU7JP4) Output: 81 (112) 5500 Tuned for: R-Cat Year: 1995-01

ok so you need to check at the connector from the ABS ECU for the resistance of each sensor back and front, the plug to the ECU is 25 pin front driver side ( UK ) you give no info on what/where/engine side/age of car so ill go for UK spec on a 1.6 1999 front driver side is pins 19 and 20 and resistance for all sensors are 1000 ohms passenger front = pins 2 and 2 rear passenger side = pins 5 and 6 rear driver side = pins 22 and 23

the connectors are either in the wheel arch or just inside the bonnet near the suspension struts, when rotating the wheel and a multi meter back probing the leads they should give aprox 0.1 volts fluctuating.

my pug uses the same tranny and not a single problem in 84k " touch wood " lol.

I would agree with randombloke here it does sound like the slave cylinder leaking because you lost the gearing in such a short time ( I doubt its a clutch fail because of that ) but as its inside the gearbox you might as well fit a new clutch because the tranny has to come off. a couple of pictures of the slave cylinder here. http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...%26tbs%3Disch:1 http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...%26tbs%3Disch:1 if im wrong though and its an external slave cylinder then the tranny doesn't need to come off

it cant be adjusted like the old ones as its hydraulic ( have you checked the level of the filler container) its like a break tank/header top up and many with these cars tend to bypass it when checking things out because they think the hydraulics work it all when it don't :( .

i know this might sound silly but i would leave the timing belt/water pump and tensioners till the time it says it should be done if my memory serves well its another 3 years down the line, its always the hard decisions that are the most difficult but in this case its financially better to follow the manufacturers regs and allow you to save mega money till when it has to be done ( it doesn't need doing at this time ) personal choice of course and lets not forget " the dealers always want your cash NOW " so just do the service and leave the rest, another thing to consider is the fact the car has done nothing near the mileage to give reason to change the timing belt so my suggestion is to have it checked and personally I would change it only when its closer to the required mileage personal choice of course

a good full synthetic oil should be good enough but if you push the car hard consider changing the oil every 6k and oil filter.

ebay mate this site is for fixing cars :(

look else where for the job to be done you can get a full service cheaper, as for the timing belt you either listen or don't ( 75k or 10 years ) cough your car is 4 yrs old lol..

well ive checked my data and its 75k or ten years, not a hard job either if your technically auto minded. perhaps the got the 2 mixed up and thought it was a 7 hence 75k and not 25k showing on the dash?.

break fluid should be checked as does the coolant but a timing belt at 26k " absolutely not " ask them to read their own info on this because its to be changes at 100k or 10 years but since my laptop went down ill have to load autodata on my computer to confirm this as I might be a few k miles out but it wont be that much.

simple word here ( defeated before you even started ) whats so difficult in changing/repairing a wiring loom?

remember the cats are covered by a warranty and its mileage and not by a 12 month joby so if they were bad when one year they have a duty to replace them, if it were found the cats were ok in the beginning and it was an o2 sensor you might have a claim against kwik fit for false diagnostics.

im guessing its petrol? the fault could also be wiring and o2 sensor on bank 1, also check all the vacuum lines for cracks or if one has come off as this would give the same result ( lean/rich air-fuel mix ).