techbod

im going for new glow plugs £40 but check if there is an air leak as this will require pressurising and that the problem, when you crank the engine and no fuel pressure it has to pump it up then it starts that means an air leak

excessive computer problems :o yet another new one but have a few problems with the bloody thing ( im thinking packing in computers and going back to cars ) blasted things

a chap from another site "pug" removed his FAP by drilling it out and filled the eloys tank with diesel and hasn't had a problem since I seem to have lost his email he sent me but it mentioned something off an old turbo which he fitted on the exhaust for pressure reasons

people don't listen to me ( did you know they came without the FAP ) cut/burn it out fill the eloys with diesel preventing that bloody light coming on in the first place

a more in depth with images http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...%3D200%26um%3D1

sounds like a throttle body clean out and accelerator cable could be loose or sticking. this link is a good place to find pictures as they concentrate on keeping classics on the road :ph34r: http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/index.php

roll of thumb here is observation and the tech drawings show where all the bolts are and show the fog light and where the locking/adjusting locations are but to simply do the job you have to raise the car to full height remove any plastic cover blocking the view of the fog light and see where the bulb goes in, the newer cars have to remove the bumper but this one is not that advanced so bulb replacement should be able to be done with bumper in situ and from under the car

01 7401 L7 01 FRONT BUMPER - W/O HEADLAMP WIPER TO BE PAINTED 7401 L8 01 - HEADLAMP WASHWIPE TO BE PAINTED 02 7452 E7 01 BMPR RUBBR BOOT CENT FZL - HURRICANE GREY - TWO-TONE BUMPER 7452 E8 01 CENT - BUMPER BODY COLOR TO BE PAINTED 03 7452 E9 01 BMPR RUBBR BOOT LEFT FZL - HURRICANE GREY - TWO-TONE BUMPER 7452 F0 01 LEFT - BUMPER BODY COLOR TO BE PAINTED 04 7452 F1 01 BMPR RUBBR BOOT RIGHT FZL - HURRICANE GREY - TWO-TONE BUMPER 7452 F2 01 RIGHT - BUMPER BODY COLOR TO BE PAINTED 05 7414 N2 01 RECESS DOOR TO BE PAINTED 06 7414 N3 01 PLUGS SET - NO FRONT FOG LIGHTS TO BE PAINTED 07 7429 73 01 BUMPER PLUG - CLOSED GRILLE + LOWER STRIP + SIDE BLANKS 08 7452 F3 01 BUMPER MOULDING - W/O HEADLAMP WIPER 7452 F4 01 - HEADLAMP WASHWIPE 09 96 137 482 02 FIXING SPACER 10 7908 89 02 BONNET BUFFER 11 7429 79 01 BUMPER PLUG - (S) 70 6922 76 02 SELF-TAP SCREWS DIAM 8X125-30 71 6924 C7 RP 6924 K1 02 01 SCREW RLX DIAM 4,2 - 16 72 6922 C7 05 SELF-TAP SCREWS DIAM 6X100-30 73 6992 G2 02 RETAINING CLIP DIAM 4,2 http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/techbod/v617501a.jpg http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/techbod/v5410500.jpg

plus VAT at 17.5% :ph34r:

its simple to DIY mate oil/oil filter/plugs/air filter and a link for those who want to know how http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible.html

its sorted nevertheless :ph34r: problem with Haynes and supplied hand books is they don't tell you about all the other fuses and realays :)

the ZX is a very fine car to known moders and the limit is the size of the wallet ( older classics stand out in the crowd ) new ones are nice but expensive :ph34r: first thing you want to do is service the check everything out like breaks/discs/tyres/exhaust then the fun starts and your hooked, there are plenty of helpers/enthusiasts on many sites for that car so there will be much assistance given if requested and good luck on your first venture you will always remember it :)

it is better to change the lot to save cash/time in the long run because every time you have to go into that area its COST £££££ of course you could check if the bearings on the pump are worn by waggling it from side to side but the main thing is ( has it ever been changed ) and only service history will tell you that, wouldn't it be an absolute pig if you replaced the belt and a tensioner/water pump went then you have to do it all over again :ph34r:

very similar issues like VVT engines as in anything that alters the timing will alter fuel/air mix and send bogus codes when its down to something silly like a loose crank/cam sensor due to vibration the coolant temp sensor had me gob smacked because normally there are definate results like the cooling fans staying on or poor starting and I had none of that :) , I would have saved lots if I checked the resistance on that first time bloody technology :ph34r:

I went over to cape town S/A its summer over there :) and got some cheap fags/baky/booze :ph34r: I have a few friends over there :)

I think they are the same as your is a pug engine in disguise pug/cit same engines :ph34r:

sounds like a bad earth from the head lights all the earths go to one clamp near the headlight unit both sides

I used this one not difficult and cheap http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Cv-Boot-Tool-...bNmQaheLe3aMb40 this is the proper thing but expensive http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Bootslider-CV...bNmQaheLe3aMb40

been on a little holiday :ph34r: but back now :)

very strange set of codes there mate im thinking coolant temp sensor as that causes all sorts of air/fueling issues and gives bogus codes which is what your getting, they replace anything to cure the fault when they should have tested the temp sensor first. to test it you need a multimeter and set it to ohms and to check it the reading when its cold should be 3500 ohms and the hotter it get it should drop to 250 ohms, I once had this issue and the code reader didn't find it :ph34r: but I got lots of bogus codes like engine misfire/multiple misfire,cam sensor out of range/P1300 which is the same as P0300 multiple misfire so I checked it out on a Bosch diagnostics and the sensor was reading -40 degrees when the engine was hot so I changed it and all the problems suddenly disappeared

if the coolant is topped up and you don't need to top it up each day then its ok and possibly down to the system check system which is normal, if the light stays on you have a problem or a sticking sender unit but as it goes off I don't think its a problem. newer cars have a built in self test which does what it says and any faults are displayed on the digital panel if you have one like the radio stations show on this panel

one thing to check is the o2 sensor as this could effect the IAT sensor, many things could cause that code and remember the code is only a guide to the problem and in most cases its something else

once I find the software ill post the resolve im only up to 04 autodata and have 08 but the code is wrong

well you just hit the nail on there head random and I have to say ive been there and MAF sensor was the issue, a bloke came to me to check his car out and I checked everything with the diagnostics and especially the MAF as the car was idling right ( the problem was actually the cat ) but he didn't believe me and took it to the dealer and they told him the MAF was bad and changed it only to have to get the cat replaced in the end, now I personally know the lad that did the checks and he told me the management said he had to replace the MAF even though he knew it was ok so it went into his toolbox for his own profit. the biggest problem here is the punter didn't know how to test the MAF and because he didn't believe me I think it serves him right, of course I'm not taring all dealerships with the same brush as some might think as most are genuine but there is always that part where they don't give the faulty part back or test it in front of the punter because they don't have to and yes I do believe the old part should be given back to the customer because it belongs to him ;) no flaming please I say it as it is :rolleyes: for obvious reasons I wont disclose any personal details

try another lighter in the socket and check the wires to it they do sometimes burn out