techbod

its an Allan key but doubt you will be able to use it due to rusting and much easier to grind the thing off after all your fitting a new one so your not going to do and damage, I cut the bolt off and it just pops out, the new one has the same Allen key hole so ensure you have one at hand because you will need it to tighten the bolt up

at least something is the same as the xantia :D I always keep those things well greased and keep the underside of the car in good condition as part of my six monthly servicing

strange cars those C5s ill have to make a point of viewing data on them to keep up to date and they look interesting

I think this should help number 3 is what your referring to by the sound of it http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h...l%3Den%26sa%3DX

this is the sort of thing that give Citroen garages a bad name, since they fitted it you would think it was a warranty issue because it might be the radio is faulty so ask them to replace it if they want to play hard ball your in a better position than them and it wont go down well if you go to trading standards

nothing to do with the tyres its more down to the center of gravity because its a small car like the mini the tyres wear more quick than a bigger car because of its manouveritbly

what sort of garage doesn't have the right diagnostic tools this is unbelivable the code reader would have sniffed it out in no time and identify the offending item because everything has a fault code even the SRS computer/ECU

ok this is only a guide, did you hover the interior out prior to the fault - did you remove a seat without removing the SRS connection/ did you do any work on the engine with the battery disconnected

your Citroen dealer is taking the P what was the fault code? flashing SRS (air bags ) means passenger air bag turned off and a common fault with the xantia because of the key in the center console gives false data because of dirty contacts in the switch due to coffee/sex/booze or lending it out to a fiend lol

anti sink valve/sphere is on the rear in the center of the car if you don't know what your doing it could be fateful due to the pressure held in there

show me a field full of bulls and you can guess the answer. It's basically the same as ours apart from they told us that this one is only 1 of 4 C3s in the country that has these options...

or remove the earth lead form the battery and switch every auxiliary thing on which will drain the memory of the ECU and reset it to factory settings, this is a gray area in diagnostics and I cant say too much but at least thats a start and more will follow in bits due to the big C :rolleyes:

so it cranks? meaning the battery is ok or not if it doesn't the reason im asking that is the windows don't work and that cant be associated with a crank sensor and could be the battery earth to the engine and chassis might be loose, crank sensor is linked to the no spark issue and fuel pump then there is the inertia fuel shut off switch which is designed to cut fuel and spark to prevent explosion in an accident or a power over load :rolleyes: if its the inertia switch you just have to press it back in

under the bonnet driver side there are 4 relays the one you want to check is relay 2 that's the cruise control relay

could be the heat shield on the exhaust the one on the catalyst did it on mine till I hit it with a rubber hammer :rolleyes:

if you have a warranty it should be covered because its a bearing but check if the tranny fluid is ok it might need topping up also read the small print on the warranty before letting them do any repairs because there might be an opt out clause in it and you will foot the bill

common problem due to air leak places to check are the pipes between each injector and the last one which is a rubber plug and they break down because they are the crap piping cotton coated you can buy the kit to replace them, next is the fuel filter seal I did my brothers and had to use the old seal and the new one to stop it leaking the new seal wasn't thick enough to make a good seal, next is the fuel line and the ball you use to prime the system and the piping because they rot over time

ahhh so that's where the difference is I wondered how the suspension on that car works when I saw that blokes car doing press ups when he wasn't in the car :D for parts try eurocarparts and compare prices or put a wanted advert on the site because someone might be breaking a car up for spares

drain plug is below the drive shaft passenger side on the tranny lowest point fill plug is on the end of the tranny facing the passenger wheel, car fully jacked up should give you enough space to get in to undo the bolt inner wheel plastic cover doesn't need to be fully removed because the place where the bolt is located is at the bottom of the plastic inner cover so only needs pulling back ( that should save you some time ) I have the pug Citroen tool for that and just enough room to slot it in to remove the plug, the C5 is the same for draining the tranny up to 2004 so not a xantia thing regardless of its age :D

ABS sensor wont effect it and the hydraulic pump is the place to start, start the engine and see if the power steering is working ( that tells you the pump is working ) if not then that's the problem

sound better than the sensors going down :D but a pain nevertheless

if you have ever done a vauxhall vectra its a similar job and not that bad to do ( much better than the diesel engine because its cheaper ) best thing to do first is to fit a new belt and tensioner ( the cams come out without removing the rocker cover ) sounds like either the cams have snapped or the bearings holding them down came loose and that's good news because chances are the valves will be ok so a good investigation is worth while

a software issue? sounds more like the idle control ( IAC ) valve or a vacuum pipe has come off, ask them for the fault code when it goes in don't just let them repair it and say it was this or that they have to put it on the diagnostic machine to check for faults and they get a print out and you want a copy :D

personal choice really, if it were me and the tyres were ok then It wouldn't bother me just annoying mine doesnt have that gizmo and im glad of that, I give the tyre a viewing every time I take it out of the garage and check the pressures every week and woudnt rely on a gizmo to tell me I would still check them my self if it had that thing :D

I would say its a resistor overload/over heat issue because it comes back on or simply needs the connectors on the back of the dash cleaning with electrical spray and see how that goes