techbod

not a 100% sure because I do little with diesels but it looks like the oil return from the turbo easily notice if you look under the car it will be wet with oil and it looks like the pipe is rubbing on the 3rd picture which is probably where its leaking from

having been on an American site for several years this was a common fault and was down to EVAP system as any escaping fumes from the fuel say through the fuel cap seal system pressure lose would set the EVAP system in a shutdown mode and only repeated cranking to build the pressure back up would get it going but without a fault code to assist diagnosing the problem I can only give you things to check out, this link should guide you through what the EVAP system does http://images.google.co.uk/images?hl=en&am...mages&gbv=2

connecting to a switched live is easy enough and you would still need a permanent live to the radio memory ( the wiring on the aftermarket unit has 2 wires that are live red and yellow ) you need to connect the yellow to the red and red to yellow but you already knew that didn't you cough, if it doesn't come on with the ignition then you need to probe for a switched live and a permanent live and a multi meter is required for that but for it to work with the steering wheel controls a special adaptor is needed not sure if you can get one through halfords?

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=eobd+p+co...nGB286&aq=t ;)

there is an earth point in the roof/map lighting check to see if its connected you might have knocked it off when replacing the unit and good luck as this can be frustrating

the 16 pin connector came out with the 2000 xantia before that it was the 30 pin connector so all the cars that I have seen newer than 2000 have the EOBD ( European on board diagnostics ) 16 pin connector as it was the law but only came into force in 2004 but used long before that date to tweak the system for the dealer only that's when it was hard to get diagnostic stuff the punter could use, from 2008 it will be compulsory to only have CAN ( control area network ) and much simpler to integrate as its fly by wire tech and very interesting though not new by any means

you can jump start it and it goes? is this a battery/alternator issue if the engine wont crank when hot it could be the battery is on its way out or the alternator isn't charging, the reason it starts on a cold morning is the battery has time to recover some power because its cooled down so giving you just enough power to crank

intermittent wipe has a relay behind the main fuses, red button? no idea, back doors check they are wired up if someone went in there they might not have reconnected them or the motors are bad but best way to check this is to listen if the plungers are trying to work then they just need a spray with wd40, 60 mpg not bad ;)

I have the face-lift 2000 II and the handbook and fuses for storage box/reading lamps are F22 5 amp/ F28 15 amp but personally don't think that's your problem and it could be a bad earth on the doors or the contacts on the boot/hatch have burned out or failed to make a good contact so worth a look

do the dealers back anything up? facts are free to view if you know where to look ( recall ) is a good place to start failing that I have lots of resources ill give you a starter :D http://www.google.com/search?q=citroen+rec...1B2GGFB_enGB278

due to less weight with the newer cars they reduced the wire thickness and this is the sort of problem you get ( I wont go into too much detail because it takes too long ) basically the connectors on the rear of the dash are subject to excess power and lose a connection here and there due to heat build up and if cleaned with an electrical cleaner used on computer boards it tends to restore them

^^ very true I had a Lexus ls 400 top of the range £56k new I got it for 1k although it was ten years old with 50k miles on the clock and full Lexus service history ( company exec cars ) same as the C6 no doubt so will be a second hand bargain in the future

if your doing just engine management most hand held on ebay will work so you don't need a laptop, elm 327 hmmm im having problems with that as its designed for multi protocol but mainly aimed at the newer cars with CAN bus ( this area is a mine field ) watch the pennies Citroen use multiplex diagnostics so many systems can be probed ABS/SRS/auto tranny,AC/TCS/ESP so just the basic wont do that

Mintex £22 as good if not better than the ones made by Citroen £56 + vat from the dealers ps: Citroen don't make break pads lol :D

HDi ill bet and it seems to be common and down to relays/resistors in the fuel system wiring, for what ever reason they seem to trip out and loose fuel pressure as these cars depend on high pressure fuel delivery any deviation causes your problem and im surprised its not a recall and they know all about it ( probably making buckets of money out of the warranty ) :D

cheaper to fit a performance back box also look at what other cars like the XM 3.0 if would fit, cheapest has to be eBay http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__citroen-exh..._pgnZ2QQ_ssovZ1

bouncy suspension means the shock absorbers are shot on the back, power steering could be it needs new fluid or the pump is on its way out

definitely not advisable to mess with this system due to extreme high pressures and it effects everything steering/breaks

the price of tech mate :lol: anti sink valve is a pressure holder so not like the BX " I love them all "

exelant that's admitting there is a problem and could be a recall

some think the diesels are good ( would I buy one ) nope

enjoy the problems later :lol:

depending on the fault code? the o2 sensors are doing their job so its down to airflow/fuel feed/split pipes in the vacuum pipes or even a vacuum pipe has come off which would effect the idle? split vacuum pipe or air leak ( too much air getting sucked in )

oh yes even the Audi do that and a problem with EOBD systems because the emissions shut down when in reserve only for the UK though so next time keep an eye on the fuel level :lol: im not even going to try to explain that because its a trade thing

^^very true and the other problem is the electronics on the new cars for-whatever reason seems to get confused ( the price of technology and system chatter as its called switches things off so unpredictable ) things like the doors are rarely checked to see if they works and most rely on the plip/remote too much, most common fault I've found is the locks need resetting due to the plip being used out of range and the code is lost then it has to be reset by the dealers unless you know how to get round it and should be in the book but what I do now and then is to check all is working correctly and in the C3 case lock and press the button within 5 seconds to disable the dead locks to see if they work because in lots of cases it resets the system all by its self