myglaren

There is a way to disable the trafficmaster box - find the +ve supply and disconnect. If you remove it altogether it will disrupt the stereo as the feed is through the trafficmaster box so trafficmaster can mute the audio while it nags you. A three-second push of the button will shut it up more-or-less permanently. Mine never troubles me except for on one occasion when I managed to stall the engine and when I have restarted the engine a few seconds after turning it off. As trafficmaster is now defunct there is no reason to have it running.

Although the suspension/steering fluid is green it may still be LDS. Comma make LDS and it is green! It is however said to be less viscous than the recommended Total LDS. I do know someone who definitely had LHM in his LDS tank and although it didn't result in any damage it did foam and leak. He drained and flushed with LDS then drained and refilled with LDS and had no furthere problems with it. I actually think someone has topped mine up with Dexron II. It is a rather uniusual colour compared with my previous C5 but works OK. One day I might fix it, not any day soon though, been like it for over a year (I've had the car over a year and it was like that when I bought it) Have you excersised the car with "Citroebics"? While not as effective as with previous hydraulic Citroens it can be benificial*. The trick is to raise the car fully, wait half a minute then lower to the lowest position. Repeat five or more times. This helps to keep the height correctors free and lubricates the rams in places that would normally dry out and become subject to corrosion in adverse conditions. *amusing to do while waiting at traffic signals - the look of shock on the faces of adjacent cars is almost woth money :)

How did this turn out? Did you have to prime the pump or was there sufficient LDS in it?

You need Esso LT71141 Lifetime Gearbox Oil, now rebranded Mobil LT71141 Lifetime Gearbox Oil.

My estate got badly damaged and I bought a hatch to replace it. The estate was generally rather sluggish but the hatch was seriously limp. I gave the estate to a mechanic mate in exchange for work to be done on the hatch. Last week he replaced the rear discs, callipers, pads etc and fixed the loose driver's seat on the hatch and MOTd it. He had it back the day before yesterday and I used the estate. He'd cleaned the MAF and turbo pipes and it went better than ever before. Like a different car. He has given it a service, new oil and all filters, fresh gearbox oil, cleaned out the boost pipes,engine temperature sensor and tightened up the throttle cable which has made an incredible difference, accelerates really well and top speed is way up (struggled to get to 90 previously). Still needs injector 2 refurbishing which will be done next week along with a couple of other minor jobs and a timing belt/water pump change as I have no idea of when that was last done - car has 182,000 miles on it. A lot of contributory factors crippling performance. Perhaps there is no single thing affecting yours. As the MAF has been replaced it may pay you to check the throttle cable adjustment which in my case was severely limiting performance. The throttle pot and stepper motor can also give similar problems.

Have you checked the fuel lines for air leaks? Take a look at the leakoff pipes first of all as they can become brittle and crack or lose the end cap.

It is a Rheostat Darin but depending on which C5 you have it isn't likely to be that. If you have the full digital climate control it will be the climate control module, located behind the trim above and to the left of the clutch pedal. Two crosspoint screws/6mm hex screws secure it and they can be a but awkward to reach. Remove it and open it, check for burned/melted connections and solder joints, particularly on the legs of the power transistors. If the transistors themselves are burned out they can often be replaced for a few pounds - 'specially if you can do it yourself. RS will have them if there is a trade counter near you but you can buy them off the net. Wish I had thought of it before I chucked mine and bought a new one - it was £45+the inevitable from the dealer. If you don't have the digital climate control it will be the transistor pack which will likely be integral with the fan, again, they can often be replaced for only a few pounds, otherwise it will almost certainly need a replacement fan. If you're not happy doing it yourself an auto electrician should be able to fix you up reasonably quickly and cheaply (relatively)

'White smoke' is generally steam, could be down to environmental conditions (cold & damp, car not used for a while/used for short trips). It never warms up properly and a lot of condensate (water and unburned hydrocarbons, SOx & NOx)collects in the exhaust. Bad egg smell is usually indicative of a cheap cat but in this case could be contamination of the cat, a decent brisk run (100 miles or so) could sort a lot of the problems out if it is only used in town and for short journeys.

How many times are you going to post this Steve? :)

Have yo attempted to use it inside the car? I was put off buying a stand alone satnav for the reason you cite but then borrowed my daughter's TomTom and discovered that it works perfectly well attached anywhere on the screen. The only place it won't attach is of course the supposedly clear area for RFIDs adjacent to the mirror.

I would second your guess but it could be a dodgy connection in the light stalk, which is in no way better for you :(

As long as they work when required to I don't think the MOT cares if they are on all the time.

Have you checked the lift pump in the tank? Strainer could be clogged or the pump failed. When you turn the ignition on it should run for a few seconds then stop. If you can disconnect the fuel line from the filter and get someone to hold a container under the detached fuel line while you turn the key there should be a spurt of fuel, only for a few seconds as it cuts out if the engine isn't running. Check for power to the in-tank pump, if none then it is likely a fuse gone or a stuck relay, or possibly the safety trip that isolates the fuel supply in the event of a crash. Don't know where it is located in the Xantia but it is a box about the size of two ten-packs of fags stuck together, either metal or plastic with a rubber domed button on the top, push the button to reset it.

Most likely severed wires between the tailgate and body.

I had a ride out in one last September at a Citroen rally. Five of us went down some very narrow twisty country lanes in the dark. Lights were terrific, just as well as the driver (not the owner of the car) was pushing it and the owner telling him to give it it's head. Ended up doing 95 and it just floated along in a very surefooted but relaxed manner. The kick from the 2.7 V6 was pretty astounding for a car that is really just a 'wafter' not a rocket. Would certainly give Jaguars and big BMWs a run for their money. The new 3.0 promises to raise the game quite a bit too. Very tempted, let one go last year as I couldn't be bothered to go and see it as I was told it was blue and presumed the horrible powder blue. Wasn't. it was the very regal dark blue, almost black and suits the C6 impeccably, still kicking myself as it was very attractively priced, garage closed a few days later. Still have hankerings for a CX though.

Not really an answer as I have a Mk1 but my radio will work with no key in for 45 minutes, after which it goes into economy mode and everything electrical is turned off bar the central locking. I imagine your problem is that economy mode is cutting in too soon. It may be possible to reprogram this with a Lexia.

Upload it to a photo hosting site like Photobucket, ImageShack, Flickr etc. Copy the code for forums and paste it here. Set your image size on upload to no wider than 760 pixels or it will force everyone to scroll horizontally to read the text in other posts and to view the whole image. The alternative if you want a large image to view is to post a thumbnail image that can be clicked on to access larger ones. i.e. http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/8149/imgp0516.th.jpg ETA: damnit, pipped at the post :(

Pumps are far too expensive to replace if you are not absolutely certain that it is defective. A Lexia should be able to show if the electrovalves are operating correctly. Don't know where they are located physically though, sorry. I'd try and find an alternative Citroen specialist that has a Lexia. It won't be cheap* to get the codes read but a damned sight cheaper than replacing a pump that doesn't need it. *diagnostic sessions generally run at around £60 with an approximate variation of ± 30%

Hang on! There is only one pump. If the front suspension is working, it can't be the pump, has to be something else. There are a set of electrovalves that open and close according to input from the height corrector potentiometer. I would check these first to see if one or more are sticking or not responding to signals.

No, the trick is to have the battery charged, left overnight, put the lights on for a minute to dissipate the surface charge then turn them off again, then measure the voltage. <12.3V would be undesirable. Charge it again and get a load test done on it, could be ready to collapse and this isn't the time of year you would want that to happen. If a load test is satisfactory give it a full charge before refitting it to the car.

Do the battery check again after an overnight stand but first turn on the headlights for a minute to clear the surface charge, that will give a clearer indication of the actual battery state.

It isn't exactly normal but not that unusual to have oil on or around the intercooler, it could be a pinhole in the air pipes to and from it or may be a slight leak on the intercooler itself. Only way to find out is to pressure test it if you can't see any actual oil have from anywhere. Clean it up as best you can and keep checking for the source of the leak.

Can't answer the wheels question but ATS have done a competent job on mine twice, couldn't say what the price per wheel was as I had also tracking done and new tyres fitted. Certainly wasn't anywhere near £15 though.

Can anyone recommend a Citroen specialist in Aberdeen or in the Arbroath/Dundee/Forfar area. Please :D

Tensioners too - the bearings go and rip the belt to shreds or skew and let it ride off the pulleys.