Johndouglas

Can you leave your battery on a trickle charge overnight so that you try a start with a full battery. When you unlock in the morning, the first thing that happens is the suspension pump brings the car up to correct level so that hits the battery Maybe your battery is a bit weak.

I haven't needed to do the job yet but I saw this last year and decided to file it for future use:- I knew it was in the area near the rear offside wheel. I took the wheel off and spotted it straight away, a plastic tank strapped on the under side of the main diesel tank. It had a plastic tube, about 10mm, coming from it going under the plastic wheel liner. I also spotted a "knob" on the side, facing the wheel. It had two white "squeezy" tabs. I squeezed the tabs and pulled. The knob then came off leaving a "stub" with a hole in the middle. I put a wire in side to check it went inside the tank and sure enough it did. I took the wheel arch liner off to check out the smaller tube. It had a one way valve on the end and I was sure it was a breather. I then thought how to get the gallon container of liquid in thru the hole. I had a 1 liter empty gearbox oil container, the one with a tube on the end for squeezing oil in. I cleaned this out with petrol and dried it. I decanted the jollop, a liter at a time, with the gear oil container, in to the plastic tank. It took all the fluid. I then replaced everything and fired the engine up. The messages still came up so I took it to the local mechanic who had a machine for checking the codes and he reset the counter on the tank. A result!

You'll find the eolys tank situated at the end of the fuel tank and slightly in front of the n/s rear wheel. There's a shield to be removed first. You probably know that the computer needs resetting after refilling.

This topic has appeared on the forum several times. Mainly with guys wanting to take brit C5 with xenons back to France. If you use the search option you'll probably find them. I spend three months of the year in Spain and always drive down through France. When I first got the car I was concerned that the gendarmes might pull me because I didn't have 'beam benders' on the lights. I wrote to Citroen UK Technical dept and they gave me a letter in French saying that xenon headlights didn't require any adjustment. But at the same time they won't satisfy the Controle Technique, nor I suppose the ITV. I guess your cheapest solution would be to get some Continental halogens. Try ebay.fr - like this:- http://global.ebay.com/Phare-Citroen-C5-01-a-804-en-H7H4-Gauche/320746305532/item

Yes! Mine has been non-functioning since the car was 2 years old. But as I never used the opening window, I haven't bothered with repairing it.

I think you may be right. I've been waiting expectantly for mine to show signs of making the pads wedge-shaped, but at 6 years - not a sign.

My guess is that you have a buildup of corrosion between the caliper and rear arm. It's a common problem and has been around since the first BX came on to the roads in 1989. The corrosion pushes the caliper out of position until it starts catching on the wheel. You need to remove the caliper and scrape off the buildup. Some owners make up a shim out of plastic sheet to place between the two surfaces.

Mine has only ever done it once. I went through the battery disconnection drill and thereafter it's been OK.

Google "Fap removal in Shropshire"

I'd lost one of mine within 9 months of getting the car. Citroen warranty didn't want to know. Thereafter I've always had them tied with small zip-ties. Easily snipped off when doing bumber removal.

They come out under water pressure - so presumably they go back helped by a spring. And a strong spring it is because my method of replacing the covers is to press the operating lever (through the window) and while it's still spraying, grab hold of it and hang on while the cover is replaced. It takes a firm grip to hold it.

I haven't a clue. Send Coastline a PM. He may be able to help.

That's right! Citroen have issued a detailed information sheet to dealers about changing the oil on 1.6 motors. For instance - No suction method to be used. Oil must drain completely before replacing sump plug.

Yes - but how does that help in finding old topics with the SEARCH facility?

It's mainly pictures I need to safeguard - having lost a batch shortly after getting into computing. A daughter bought me an external hard drive which I copy onto from time to time.

There was one porno post about a week ago but compared with how it was a few months ago, it's great now. Wondered where you were - thought you were maybe sunning yourself on some sunny Costa.

Congratulations on the MOT. It's always a relief to get it behind you. I know since I have four cars to get done. Fading yellow on indicator bulbs is a popular advisory and now that they come up on the computer the following year, will be a fail if they are not done in time for next year. If you do a search on the site there's plenty of advice on changing brake discs and pads. Your anti-roll bar problem is likely to be the drop links. Not too difficult to do and not at all expensive - around £25. Citroen C5 seat belts always seem to be sluggish to retract. I've heard that a spray with silicone spray can help.

Neither have I. Probably understandable when the pressure within the LDS reservoir is 0.5bar. Compare that with the other plastic reservoir in the cooling system. There the pressure can be 1.5bar.

OK I've just checked mine. RP No is 10+ and on a dipstick to the bottom of the basket, the level is 10mm above.

On the subject of over-filling, all I've ever seen is that if over full, can squirt out through the cap when it's put on low setting.

No you haven't and both methods are correct. It all depends on the RP number of your vehicle. 09064/09065 is the change number. Prior to 09064 is your first method - later than 09065 is the second.

The Eolys tank is at the end of the fuel tank, above the exhaust side of the vehicle. But when I think more about it, when the tank is getting empty, it shows as "Additive System Low". You really need to get the fault codes read on a diagnostic machine. Esp/Asr faults show for all sorts of reasons. I've had them - but after switching off, it doesn't reappear.

I suspect it happens to us all. It certainly happens here.

How many miles/kms has it done? The thing that springs to mind is that the Eolys fluid is depleted and the particle filter is blocked.

All my experience is on 2 ltr C5's, so yours might be different. My oil filter has a hexagon head on it. From memory it's a 27mm socket. Just spin it off anti-clockwise. Renew the large '0' ring before replacing. My fuel filter also has a hexagon head on it so it needs a socket. Inlet and outlet pipes need to be detached first. Press down the green tab and pull off the connector. Electrical connector also removes. The filter on our other HDI has a 'lid that is held by a screwed ring - rather like a Kilner jar. After removing the ring, the lid lifts off. It should be possible to drain oil through the dipstick hole because others do it. Personally I prefer to do it the hard way and remove the plug.