Johndouglas

I haven't heard anything about that - but I do know from another website frequented by prof. mechanics and mot testers that there is a lot of opposition to going bi-annually. They bleat about loosing income and even going out of business. The easy way for the Government is to do nothing.

Have you tried taking it from normal height up to high, then down to low. When its settled, take it back to high. Do the routine a few times. It may help. Also have you checked the LDS level?

You need a deep socket to remove glow plugs. There's a small nut to remove first which will be holding the wiring loom to each plug. Any difficuly you will have will be with the plug at the cambelt end because it has the pump in front of it.

tow bar sockets tow board conected and all lights must work I believe this only applies to 13pin sockets. Older 7S & 7N are still only looked at. I also heard that seats have got to move and lock in positions.

Is your battery in good condition? I lost my power steering on start up a couple of times when I had my old battery. Disconnecting the battery and charging it for a couple of hours reset the power steering

What speed have you got set on your cruise? Mine is a 2ltr engine but my long-drive fuel consumption varies according to my average speed. If I'm set at 70, I'll get 46 or so. Set it at 65 and it'll be nearer 49. Be boring and set it at 55mph and it'll be doing 55mpg. And yes - I've always thought it daft that a spare set of bulbs have to carried in the car when it's sutch a pain to change them.

I find some of this conflicting. Is it possible for a driver's seat to become 'shot' in 61K miles? Mine is over 80K and it's fine - and I'm no light-weight. Have you checked the MOT history/Recorded mileages? See this:- http://motinfo.direct.gov.uk/internet/jsp/ECHID-Internet-History-Request.jsp

You'll need the D1S previously mentioned. Yours must be the same model as mine. What weight are you going to tow? I pull 1200Kgs behind mine and it copes extreamely well. Around 30 to the gallon and most level road is done in 6th gear.

Thanks - I hope so. Can't help but have mixed feelings about going. My wife died there last year.

I have one in the car which I carry as a spare although I haven't used it. It's labelled Osram and cost around 40 quid. Thought I'd better have one to conform with requirements in some EU countries which demand that a set of spare bulbs be carried. A laugh really when you see the difficulty in replacing some of them.

My C5 is a 2005 - so likely to be different. There's a switch to turn off the parking sensors. On mine it's third from the left and is marked with a P

Are you having to put any additional water in the tank?

Are you sure there are no air locks in the system.

No - not yet. Earlier in the year I did the Saxo and 306 and have got all the kit for the C5 but haven't got around to doing the job. Guess it'll have to wait until the spring because I'm off to Spain in 10 days for the winter.

You must do the same thing when you bleed the rear brakes. If you don't, fluid won't be pushed out.

Have the engine ticking over. Move the suspension lever from low to high a couple of times, leaving it at high. Then try the brake pedal.

Yes! Rear spheres shouldn't have needed changing before 77K. C5 spheres have a much longer life that those fitted to Xantia and BX.

The wearing out of rear arm bearings has been around since the days of the first BX in 1989 and the setup hasn't changed all that much. It's a job that many DIY mechanics do for themselves with the replacement parts costing around 50 quid per side. I think time wise, the book time is about four hours for the job. Last time I saw a price being quoted for the job was around £350 - but that was a couple of years ago.

My C5 estate went through a period of dropping overnight when it was around four years old. I got quite worried about it. I went through the high/low routine with the suspension at least once every day for a week or so, and suddenly it started to keep it's level. It's been fine ever since.

When you say the spheres were changed, did that include the anti-sink ones? How does the car perform when it's taken from low to high on the suspension lever? Usually the seat beat sign is controlled by a sensor in the seat. You didn't give the year of the car but it can't be more than year 2000. 2000 Euros seems expensive. In the UK, a Xantia more than £1000 would have to be very good. Have you thought about exporting a UK model?

You certainly want the battery disconnected before removing the ECU. The detailed proceedure for battery removing is to allow the ECU "to go to sleep". I don't know - but all sorts of things might go wrong or fail to function properly if it was removed in a 'live' state.

Yes - it's behind the battery. Turn the four plastic screws a half turn and the cover will lift off. The ECU is held by a couple of torx screws. There are three connectors which swivel to disconnect from the back of the ECU

If you jack up without raising the suspension, you may find that when you remove the jack the suspension is left in the low position and it's reluctant to go back to normal. But it doesn't always happen. For the first few months of C5 ownership I didn't raise before jacking but I got away with it.

No - the outside temperature sender is a stand alone. When you get the replacement it has two short wires attached. It's a soldering job in the back of the mirror Your fuel leak could be from the seal where the fuel gauge sender and pump goes into the tank. Access is under the back seat. Through a large grommet.

For the battery to be in a good state for starting, the voltage reading should be 12.6 or above. When the engine is running, reading should be around 14+ volts. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery is not as straightforward as what it would seem. To disconnect, switch off and remove the key. Wait 5 minutes to allow the ECU to power down. During the 5 minutes don't open or close any doors, otherwise it re-awakes the system. When you reconnect the leads, wait at least 2 minutes before doing anything. Then turn on the ignition and wait a short while before starting. Window anti-pinch facility may be wrong and the clock will need resetting.