Johndouglas

I wouldn't rule out having two blown bulbs. My 2005 model has got through three changes in its lifetime and is now running on LEDs.

Including the new filter, it will take 3.5 ltrs of 5/30 semi-synth.

Timing belt and cambelt are the same thing. Once you take off that belt you mustn't turn the engine. Most likely what you took off was the auxilliary belt. They do sometimes make noises. Sometimes because they are too tight; too loose or even have noisy pulley bearings. The cambelt is behind the three part plastic cover on the end of the engine. It should be replaced every 75000 miles or 10 years and in a garage it's a two & a half hour job - or all day in my case.

So if it's out of gear, but rolling forward at tickover, then there's no whine? If so, you can rule out the water pump because that's turning all the time the engine is running. Also water pumps give their trouble by loosing water rather than bearing noise. Try some more experiments. For instance does it whine more when turning or straight ahead? How about when the clutch is depressed?

The question is - could you tackle a timing belt change, because the water pump is driven by the timing belt and the pump is usually changed at the same time as the belt and tensioners. The alternator is driven off the visible belt whereas the timing belt is internal.

Depends entirely on your DIY skills. Don't know what's included in your ebay 45 quid service kit, but ECS would do you an oil, air, fuel and pollen filter for around 35 quid.

If the timing is correct a pin will pass through the hole in the camshaft sprocket and go into the head when the hole is at about 8 o'clock. At the same time a 6mm rod should go through the flywheel housing (down the front of the engine) and into a hole in the flywheel. The injection pump doesn't need timing on the HDIs.

If it happened so soon after a belt change, I would check the timing first. It may have slipped a couple of teeth.

Have a look at this old topic:- http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?showtopic=8241&st=0&p=40409&fromsearch=1entry40409

I find that it's just about possible to change headlight bulbs on a Xsara, but sidelight - No! I've always got to take the bumper off first. When that's off there's a cross member bolted on with four bolts. That needs to come off as well because one of the bottom headlight bolts is hiding behind it. Change both bulbs while it's off since the other one will go next week :lol:

Did you put the suspension on high before jacking it up? I've heard that a similar problem appears if you jack up without raising it first. I can't help you but try your question on http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk Someone there will probably help you.

Welcome to the forum. Wow that's some mileage - but not unusual it seems on C5s.

It's quite a lot of years ago that I had a Xantia but I think it's just about possible to reach in by removing the front of the wheel arch liner.

Mine has the drawer under the passenger seat but the driver's seat has the CD player.

Before you worry to much about the anti-sink valve, I would check the accumulator sphere at the front of the car. With the engine running listen for the clicking from the regulator. Ideally it should click about twice in a minute. If it's much more, then the sphere isn't holding pressure. One purpose of the rear anti-sink valve is to close when it detects a loss of pressure from the system when the engine is turned off, ensuring that some pressure is maintained for the braking system.

Pollen filter

I've no idea of their quality, but these may be worth comparing: http://www.tailgatestruts.com/citroen-tailgate-struts/citroen-c5-gas-struts

That's true. You'll find most of them hang out on http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum

The radiator isn't held at the bottom with bolts. It just sits in rubber grommets. No need to remove the bumper.

How about the handbrake? Maybe it gets onto the first notch.

If yours is an early diesel engine, it may have an inertia switch which if you have an accident the switch acts on the injection solenoid to turn off the fuel supply. If you have one, look at the back of the engine compartment on the right. Maybe a rubber button pushed down will reset it.

It's a common problem on C5 estates. If you do a search there's lots of posts on DIY cures. Here you are - I'll make it easy for you http://users.skynet.be/sky83161/sven/openingc5.pdf

Autodata quote every 80000 miles or after 10 years.

The tensioner (as far as I remember) is a bearing with an off-centre pivot. The tightest point is held with an 8mm square angled wrench while the pivot bolt is tightened.

Yes - I used to have a 2.1 - great motors. Not much room between the end of the engine and the inner wing. You'll need bonnet open, wheel off and wing liner removed. Also a wire coat hanger opened out with a squared hook on the end is helpful. Start fitting at the crank shaft. Left side of belt goes under the idler pulley from left to right; then up and over PAS pulley from left to right; then down and under the tensioner (which needs to be loosened); up and over the alternator - this is where you'll need the wire hook: down and round the aircon and back to the crank. The belt may be tight even with the tensioner pinched up in the loose position. I find it helpful to turn the engine will the belt goes on the last pulley. Make sure the ridges get into the correct spot.