Johndouglas

For anyone carrying out servicing, the undertray is a nuisance. It needs to come off each time the oil is drained. But it also helps to hold together all the other plasticy bits under the car, which all tend to vibrate and break with road speed. Use the search button and you'll find topics about replacing broken wheel arch liners etc. To buy new plastic from Citroen is very expensive. Try some of the breakers advertising C5 pieces on ebay.

Definately get a second opinion. A 'prop shaft' is usually associated with rear wheel drive cars. Yours is a front wheel drive and each wheel has its own drive shaft. You need to know from which side the whine is coming. Both sides don't normally go at the same time.

Might help if you give the area.

FCF = http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk

There are lots of guys on FCF with them and they all give good reports. On that forum there's a map showing where members with them live so that others can contact them.

Dave is right. Mk 2 C5's have bayonet bulbs with offset pins. The number is 433C. Since getting my C5 I've had to change sidelight bulbs three times, the first one blowing after only nine months. I know some owners have fingers sufficiently agile to replace bulbs under the bonnet, but I find it necessary to remove the bumper each time. At the last change I fitted LED replacements. Maybe not quite as bright as halogen but they are rarely on without the headlights. Here they are - on their own/with headlights:- http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/P1000045.jpg http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/P1000046.jpg

Before you do that, check the switch. Also look at the wiring in the rubber cover below the door hinge. With the constant opening and closing, they're prone to damage.

I fitted a Witter bar to my C5 estate with a fixed towball. It does interfere with the sensors but there's a switch on the dashboard which switches them off.

I've just driven my C5 from Calais to Malaga - 1250 miles. I kept the speed below 70mpg and at journey's end the display panel showed 49.5mpg. In fact I filled the tank three times and working out consumption fom brim to brim, actual consumption was 48.3mpg.

One reason for the engine running away is when it's consuming its own lubrication oil by having the sump over full. It might be overful because too much oil has been put in, but also excess diesel fuel can be finding its way into the sump and raising the level. Not good because it's also diluting the lubricating oil.

Is the wire broken or maybe it's already open and being held by the second catch. Can you raise the bonnet by an inch. If so, use a finger to move the second catch across.

So the engine code is DHY which makes it an XUD engine. To check that the timing hasn't slipped, you'll have to take the front cover off the engine so that you can see the pulleys and timing belt. Turn the engine by hand until you can insert two 8mm bolts through two holes on the fuel pump so that they screw into the cyl head. One hole will be at 6 o'clock and the other at 1 o'clock. When those two are in, you should also be able to put one through the cam pulley at about 5 o'clock. Also a 6mm rod should be able to go into a hole in the back of the flywheel. The hole is behind the starter motor. If the four holes don't line up, then the timing has slipped. Will need a new timing belt.

Any decent quality synthetic of 10w/40 or 5w/30 grade. 1.6HDI's are well known for goosing their turbos. Ignore the 20000 mile recommendation and change the oil and filter much earlier.

I would say i's fine - especially in the winter months. Should help cold starting and probably give you a bit better consumption.

The engine code would tell you. Usually the 6th,7th & 8th letter of the VIN number.

I would start by checking the engine timing because it sounds as though the belt has jumped a tooth - or two. You'll need to remove the top front cover off the engine then check the timing pin holes. But we need to know which engine is in the car. Could be HDI or DW8 or even XUD. "About 10 years old" is the time they changed. Tell us the VIN number of the car. The engine code is in there.

Would that be an XUD or DW8 engine? Thing is, you may be able to find the same fuel pump on other Citroen or Peugeot cars.

Look on ebay. There's usually several C5's being broken - or your local scrap yard.

They usually come with fitting instructions. They usually increase torque output and your DMF may not handle it for too long. On another forum I read that pending new MOT regs will probably include aftermarket engine modifications. A ecu rewrite might not be so obvious.

I wouldn't do that as a permanent measure. If 40 is what's recommended, you should use that then trace the reason. Otherwise you may incinerate :)

Press the 'menu' button on the dash board. In the centre display you'll be given four choices. One of them is for personal settings. Press the OK button and you'll be able to toggle through different choices - one of them is 'language'. The button on the end of the wiper stalk changes the miles travelled/mpg/average speed. The top line will give an instant readout of mpg.

Is that with or without the engine running? It should rise when it's first unlocked. With the engine running, try turning the steering wheel from lock to lock.

Yes it's happened on mine. I was driving from Malaga to home a couple of years ago and the fault appeared on the screen. Very worrying for a time. It stayed until the next service area stop. After the break the fault disappeared, never to return.

Local branches of GSF have the same brand. They also have the filling kits.

Driver's.