Johndouglas

Is it that 1. Everybody's gone on holiday. 2. Everybody's car is behaving itself with no problems. 3. Computer down. Personally, I'm on a high. I got the C5 through its MOT this morning. That's two of them done. Pug 306 next week and the Xsara in four weeks. Incidentally, if anybody's worried about their towbar being part of the MOT - came in on 26th April - don't worry, they hardly gave it a glance. I asked the guy about it. His reply, "It's OK as long as it isn't falling off"

Maybe you should prepare for a long wait. It's taken years for them to produce one for the C5.

It seems, reading the previous three pages that the early C5 are easier to bulb change than the Mk2 models. I've been checking my C5 over prior to MOT and I found the driver's side sidelight bulb blown. I removed the cover over the hydraulic bloc/Coolant reservoir and tried to reach the back of the lamp. There's just now way it can be done. I did manage to remove the sidelight cover but it's impossible to reach the back of the bulb holder. Halfords didn't want to know. Once I'd told them the model and year, they weren't interested. Next, I tried the local Cit dealer. They wanted the car booked in and a possible charge of £95. I did learn that it's a special 6watt bulb that's wanted. They sold me one for £6.85. I've since found them here at half the price: http://www.consumabulbs.com/files/bdet.php?id=170 Notice the position of the pins. Why couldn't Citroen use a normal 12v 5watt bayonet bulb at 85p? As Haynes advise, I had no alternative than to take off the front bumper. Two hours work to change a light bulb! http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/P1020353.jpg

Is that on them all or just the steel suspension models?.

I always give them a liberal dose of Millers during the week before taking them for test. Last year I didn't get around to doing the Xsara before testing and it failed on smoke. I brought it away and dosed it well with Millers. Early the following morning I took it for a thrashing down the A3 and then straight back for a retest as they opened at 8am. It got a 'fast pass' with 1.24. The Saxo went in last Thursday for test and it passed with 1.12. Give it a try - it works wonders.

Put Millers Diiesel Power Sport 4 or Diesel Redex in the fuel tank then take the car for a fast drive using plenty of revs. All four of our cars need MOTs and they all get the treatment before going for the test.

The length of time that this problem has been around, wouldn't you have thought that Citroen would have got a fix. It was just as big a problem on Xantias. When I did those I used copper grease, but I have heard of guys inserting a piece of plastic sheet.

Does the rear go up and down in reply to moving the selector?

Have a look at fuse number 7 in the box in front of the driver's seat. Think it's 20amps.

The horn is behind the front bumper on the left-hand side. You'll need to get in behind the wheelarch liner although on some Xantias it's easier to remove the foglight. Check the fuse first.

Smart 7 relays. See them here:- http://www.towsure.com/product/13145-Smart...y_Can-Bus_Relay It ensures that the onboard computer doesn't know you've interfered with the car's electricals.

Yes you can - but use a Smart 7 relay. I did my 2005 C5 in this way and it works fine. Also you'll need an audible warning for the trafficators.

You were lucky. Sometimes the window closing plays up. Mine did.

It's all in the engine code - and can be found in the VIN. RHZ is 110BHP and RHY is the 90BHP. Lets hope you haven't been 'done' ;)

Maybe rear arm bearings?

Put the driver's window down, lift the bonnet and ensure all equipment is switched off. Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition. Wait for 3 minutes, disconnect the vehicle battery and wait 15 seconds. Reconnect the vehicle battery, wait a further 10 seconds (do not open doors.). Switch on the side lights through the driver's window. Switch on the ignition and check system's functionality. Hold lock button on key down for 10 seconds. Remove key open & close door test central locking system. Start the engine and correct your clock and radio settings. Failure to follow this procedure could result in incorrect operation of many BSI related items.

Copied from my original post, "I've used my code reader on it and it came up with P0113 and P0102."

The good news is that my C5 is back on the top line. The bad news is that it's taken so long to track down the trouble. I eventually booked the car into a Bosch service depot. They kept it overnight but after the second day although their computer showed three codes, they couldn't tell me what was wrong with it. I took it away and booked it in with the local Cit. dealer. At first they wanted to charge me £120 for a new battery. They said mine was the wrong size. What I have fitted is a Bosch 096/100 70Ah 420/720 - and only six months old. Fortunately I was able to take them the original Fulman fairly fully charged. After swopping them over and trying again, they decided the starter was turning over too slowly. A change of starter motor and this morning's cold start shows the car's back to normal. So first prize to iannez for his correct diagnosis. If you're wondering why I changed a perfectly good battery six months ago, it was because the cranking speed seemed to be so slow that I thought the battery was on it's last legs. In fact, ever since I got the car I've always thought the starter wasn't as energetic as our other three. With the benefit of hindsight, I should have got it looked at when it was still under warranty.

Mine is a 2005 facelift estate. Once I reach 5mph all the doors lock. Auto-locking can be cancelled on the central display

It's a long bolt that goes through the shims and the pads and it's held with a nut on the rear. The bolt also holds the cover plate. Hold the nut and turn the bolt, when the cover plate will just pull away.

The pulley on your car is made from two rings of steel bonded together with rubber. Over time the rubber begins to deteriorate and eventually the pulley will collapse with dire results. It shows itself with a tinkling/rattle noise.

You can say that again! Our Xsara's VIN is VF7N1RHYB7******* and the engine is a RHY. The C5's VIN is VF7RERHRH7******* so does that make the engine a RHR

Engine code is RERHRH. Gradually starts after a long crank. Haven't really noticed any smoke. Warm/hot start is almost normal. Also there's no fast idle tick-over when it's cold. Still puzzled by the other sensor in my picture. My French manual describes it as "an air pressure sensor", although the MAF is in the pipe in front of the air filter. It has three pins. It doesn't show as a fault on the reader. Is it possible to test it?

First a thank you to Coastline for his 'messages' help. My C5 HDI has become difficult to start from cold. I've used my code reader on it and it came up with P0113 and P0102. The 113 code is the air intake sensor and the 102, the MAF. The MAF was cleared because it wasn't plugged in properly and the local dealer has supplied me with a new AIT sensor. That's the rear one in my picture. Anybody tell me what the front one is? Having now cleared the codes and the reader telling me that it has no codes, cold starting isn't any better. Any suggestions. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Sensors-1.jpg

Check that the thermostat is working correctly. It may not be opening fully. Flush your radiator. It might be blocked with sludge. Try a new rad cap.