Johndouglas

I don't think you need worry. The oil pump pickup has a strainer around it so the debris can't get into the pump. I would also have thought it doubful that it will flush out through the sump plug.

Agreed! they are flat beam and don't need beam benders for continental motoring but - the light pattern does have a kickup to the left hand side. So maybe that would stop them being acceptable in France.

You may find that reprogramming has to be done by a dealer.

The clutch isn't fully releasing.

Depends what you want it for. If it's for a towbar and you're wanting to run a fridge or charging an onboard battery, then nothing less than 2.5mm square cable will give satisfactory working. Best to use a smartcom relay, taking the supply direct from the battery.

Have a look here:- http://www.carparts-direct.co.uk/drive_shafts_detail.cfm

Should be in the box with the new one.

Front left Front right Rear left Rear right.

You'll certainly need the undertray off to reach the drain plug on the sump. For the oil filter, open the bonnet and look to the right handside of the engine. You should see a black dome with a 32mm hex (I think) to take a socket and wrench. The top screws off and the filter lifts out. Use a new ring on replacement.

I have often heard this said. I have caravanned for many years and have always used as the on-board caravan battery, the same type as is fitted to my Xantia or C5. The van also has a remote mover fitted and the battery is capable of moving the van quite a long way without showing any signs of distress. I keep the van parked alongside the house with the mains permanently connected. I switch on the onboard charger for a few hours every two to three weeks. Unlike a mains battery charger, a caravan onboard charger won't charge to more than 13.8.

Normal exhaust gas temperature is around 150C. Periodically, when the soot particles are trapped in the particle filter they need a temperature of 550C to burn them off. The eolys fluid which is a cerine-based substance has the ability to lower the burning temperature of the particles to 450C. The regeneration occurs every 300 miles or so. It’s the ash from the burning of the cerine which eventually blocks the filter and needs to be cleaned with high pressure jets. Now how can an extra squirt of diesel or redex put into 60 litres of diesel – or horse urine or pig’s pi$$ (as has been mentioned on other forums) achieve the required result.

Couldn't possibly work - and wouldn't save you any cash.

How about the flywheel? Does that line up correctly?

Is that petrol or diesel?

14th December is the latest publishing date.

Pull the pump from the reservoir and check that it's working. If not replace it.

14th December is the (present) publishing date.

Rotors in USA - brake discs in UK. It's expected to have very slight circular grooving on discs but not deep grooves. If soft pads are fitted they wear comparatively quickly leaving the disc relatively unworn. If harder pads are used, the pads last well and instead wear down the discs. If the thickness of the discs is less than 24mm, they should be replaced. When pads are down to 2mm, it's time to replace those.

Depending on the year of your C5 you may find a large ring to remove as Naylor said. On a later model the top of the filter has a large (32mm from memory) plastic bolt head. Use a close fitting socket on it.

And also on the MOT certificate in the box marked VIN.

The plugin is at the back of the glove box, behind a pull-out cover.

Go for a drive and try not to use the brakes. After a couple of miles feel the wheel centres. They should be comparatively cool. If they are warm/hot then it sounds as though the pads are binding. The mechanic suggested that if the car had sat in the open for any length of time the pads could have warped can this be true? Highly unlikely, I would have thought. My C5 has sat outside for 4 years and as it only does long runs, it isn't used very often. Whilst the discs can sometimes get some slight rusting after a few damp days, the pads themselves don't suffer.

I don't know if the switch-on/off level can be altered but my C5 is slow to switch on as the light diminishes and slow to switch off as light level rises. I just live with it.

Have a look at the water level in the coolant reservoir. If it needs to be topped up, then my guess is that the heater matrix has sprung a leak. Does the car have a sunroof?

Might be the outer joint on the drive shaft.