Johndouglas

It's probably the same size as the 206 and 306 Pugs. In which case you need a 32mm socket and a very long lever to undo it. It's torqued to 148lbs/ft.

European measurement of torque is the Newton metre (Nm), the UK method of measurement is pounds/feet. As usual in Britain we have confusion between metric and Imperial measurements, so both are in use. Maybe what you use gives a hint to your age! ;) However, to convert one to the other 1 lb/ft = 1.356Nm. So: 236lbs/ft = 320Nm 273lbs/ft = 370Nm 255Nm = 188lbs/ft 317Nm = 233lbs/ft

The 2litre HDI is fitted into several vehicles. C8; Synergie; C5; C4; Dispatch; 307; 406; 407; 806. It's important to match the engine code.

In the lists of Citroen recalls I can find no mention of a recall for the replacement of the belt tensioner. With two HDI's in the household, both bought from new, it isn't likely that both registrations would have slipped through the net.

PamC8 bought this 3 year old car with 57K on the clock. Who is to say that before it was purchased it didn't have 'mileage correction'. Unless a VMC certificate was given verifying the mileage, in my opinion seeking recompense for the damage will get nowhere. Sorry to be a wet blanket.

Current model: 2 ltr 236/2000 2.2 ltr 273/1750

That serrated end is just to stop the hose turning. It fits into a steel holder and has a pipe union going into it. If you haven't already started get yourself a 10/11mm pipe union spanner. An open ended spanner will just round off the flats. If the union gets rounded off and can't be undone, there's not much option other than to cut off the pipe and make a new one.

You need to know why the gasket has gone. If it's run short of water and it's overheated, it's likely that the head will be warped, and just to put a new gasket on with a warped head will be a waste of time. The new gasket will quickly leak. If the engine has overheated, it's worth having the head checked and maybe skimmed. Also if you are going to do any valve work whilst the head is off, some specialist tools are required. If your engine is diesel, depending upon the protrusion of the pistons above the block, it gives you a choice of 5 different gasket thicknesses. Also the cylinder head bolts should be measures and if they are over a specified length, should be renewed.

Yes, clean up the threads and apply a bit of high melting point grease before assembly.

What a sad story! There have been several posts on this and other forums where cambelts have snapped, sometimes long before they've reached the recommended figure. Unfortunately, if the car is out of warranty, the seller won't want to know. It isn't always possible to say exactly why the belt snapped. Could be a faulty tensioner pulley, a worn water pump, a shredded auxiliary belt, an oil leak or even a faulty clutch. In view of the huge expense of repairing your engine, have you explored the possibility of finding a replacement from a breaker? There must be many sound engines in accident damaged vehicles.

Hello and welcome :)

This is a better idea than drilling holes in the bulkhead. When I fitted my towing electrics I ran the cables from the battery, down the back of the engine, through the fuel pipe conduit, over the fuel tank and through the inspection disc and into the load area.

First answer is No - second answer - Could be. I have changed driveshafts in the past. Sometimes because the rubber gaiter has got damaged and allowed dirt to get in. On all of our present cars none have needed new driveshafts - and they've all just had MOT's. A knocking noise could indicate a worn CV joint, but not twice in two years - unless they used a 2nd hand shaft.

I don't think so. I think 16" wheels on Mk2's is all part of modern design which calls for larger and larger diameter wheels. The corrosion problem between the trailing arm and caliper has been around since the BX came off the drawing-board. One would have expected Citroen to have overcome the trouble by now. A waxed paper gasket would have done the trick.

Haven't had a ZX but a Pug 306 is usually fairly similar. You need the rear of the car supported on axle stands. The centre console has to be removed and all the adjustment taken out of the cables at the rear of the handbrake. Disconnect the inner cable from the handbrake. Underneath - on the 306 the exhaust has heat shields that have to be removed. Free the outer cable fom the body clips and the trailing arm. Remove the brake shoes and tap the cable from the back plate. You could try working some WD40 into the outer cable.

Acording to Autodata you need 5W/30 Semi Syn. or in a hot climate 15W/50. Look for on the can CF/B1-98/B3-98. Including the filter you need 3.8ltrs.

AI have it and excellent it is too. If Haynes can make their manual as good, it will be worth the wait.

With the drums on, press the footbrake several times to get the shoe to drum distance correct. Use the handbrake several times to make sure the self adjusters are correct. When you pull on the handbrake how many clicks have you? There should be between four and six. If the nearside cable isn't moving, it's either seized or broken. Try pulling from the drum end. As a last resort, fit a new cable. It'll be less than a tenner.

If you've got the union screwed out of the sphere, the pipe should pull out, but it may be held in by the rubber seal. It's that seal that you need to replace when you put it back together. The old one may be left behind.

If you had used the search facility on this site you would have found the instructions for removing the antisink sphere. Those are that before undoing the sphere, the 9mm pipe union at the back of the sphere must be loosened first, otherwise - well, you know what happens now. You'll have to loosen off the other end of that broken pipe and get a replacement. Don't know whether you have enough length just to cut the damaged part and reflange. Also get two new seals. The height corrector may be rusty but does it work. If I were you I would do one job at a time. Get the antisink put back together then see if the car raises and lowers. Watch yourself underneath if it isn't supported.

How long is a piece of string? A hightop has the aerodynamics of your average building block. I know that if I drive my C5 at a reasonable speed, I get 50ish to the gallon. Put the roofbox on which changes the car's shape and consumption falls to 40ish. Add the caravan as well and I'm looking at 30mpg. If you see Citroen's website, they quote average fuel consumption for cars. Go to the van section and fuel consumptions are not quoted. There are too many variables effecting consumption.

Maybe the cause of the delay is that they've just discovered that "Refitting is not a reverse of the removal proceedure". ;)

See my reply on your other post.

If your flasher unit has 5 wires coming from it, White goes to an earth, Green/white goes to the RH flasher unit, Yellow/white goes to LH flasher unit, Green goes to the 7core green, and yellow to 7 core yellow.

Make sure you can SEE both sides of the firewall. It would be a disaster to drill into something behind the dash.