qman3428

You need a new radio, it was an optional extra on the car hence the button on the steering wheel.

Ok had it checked out, the fan motor has gone, new one ordered and booked in for fitting

Hi, I used the heaters to cool the engine this Monday, 30 degrees outside and the heaters on, not nice. I have booked the car for a diagnostic with the main dealer so I will let you know the outcome. It is a typical modern car, I can see the fan but cant get to it without major stripdown. I will look for the sensor tonight. Thanks

As a guide I had the full belt kit including pulleys and water pump changed by my local main dealer for a 2009 2.0 hdi the bill was £474 including replacing the anitfreeze

My 2009 C5 2.0 HDi has over heated in traffic twice in the last week ( weather must have got better) Each time there was no activity from the fan. I am told the sensor is on the thermostat but I cant see it. I was also told that if I disconnect it the fan should come on which would discount it as the fault Any one got any ideas

Peugeot 407 p1597 cooling circuit bypass solenoid open circuit

My bad, wrong one, but I can only find ECU safe as a paid for download (over 500$) or as a pirate (full of virus infections) so if anyone else can find it I would like it as well.

ECUSAFE is here http://www.tactrix.c...id=36&Itemid=58

I found it here, no warnings on download or install http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=36&Itemid=58 Some sites are trying to charge for it.

That is the head unit I have in my car, the main dealer assures me I need a replacement head unit to connect to bluetooth.

Thanks Coastline, I thought there would be a release valve or something, nice to know it is so simple.

Yes I am aware of the risks of oil under pressure, hence why I asked the question in the first place but thanks for the heads up. The air filter is a K&N panel filter and was cleaned and re-oiled two weeks ago, I checked it last weekend to see if it was over oiled and it is fine. The air intake is lined with a black gunge but I wiped a lot of it out and short of it going through the valves in dollops I dont see that being the issue and I have been experiencing this fault for a few months. The EGR valve is new and I do 550 motorway miles every week and yes I do knock hell out of it (regular over 3000 rpm). It went through the MOT a month ago with no faults or advisories but if I set off at speed I do leave a black cloud behind me (great for those cyclists who cut me up in London). There is a knock (like a tappet) at tick over and the idle is a litle rough. My thought is that an injector is supplying a jet instead of a spray, hence the above faults. I wanted to take them out and see if there was obvious crud on the injectors. It is in the main dealers next week for a cam belt replacement (100,000 miles) and I will ask them to diagnose the noise. I will report back then. It would be nice to know how to depresurise the system, just in case I do need a new injector. Though I have been told they get stuck in the head. Thanks for the replies.

I have tried the search function but it is not returning any results no matter what I put in! If I accelerate hard I leave a cloud of black smoke behind me and believe it may be a faulty injector, my question is, because it is a common rail system, how do I vent the pressure before removing the injectors for inspection. the car is a 2.0 hdi C5 exclusive on 2009 plate

I have a 2009 C5 exclusive which has just done 100,000 miles. Booked in for a cam belt change with new tensioners and while they are there a new water pump. I had a new fuse box and windscreen trim under warranty and am on my third set of tyres and second set of brake pads. Fuel filters need changing regularly and I have also replaced the EGR as it reported a fault, the new one reports the same fault but has no effect on the car. I have found the car to be comfortable (3+ suspension) reasonably economic at 40mpg with the auto box, quiet, smooth and reliable. I bought it 12 months old at half the list price and consider that to be the most economic way of buying a fairly new car (most depriciation on the first day). My car has had the DPF removed and software upgraded, I have it chipped to 170bhp (from 136) and it is fitted with a K&N panel air filter. I am looking forwards to it doing 200,000 miles before I replace it. Would I buy another one, you bet!

If you want a quick bodge use araldite, used in the aircraft industry for years and heat and oil resistant (you will need to get it clean enough for it to stick.)

Not really enough information but if the oil level on the dip stick is right then its not that. The DPF would show warning lights so I dont think it is that either. If you changed the fuel filter have you made sure the hand pump is hard and enough fuel is being delivered. An air lock would cause the symptoms you have. Failing that look around the engine bay, have they disturbed anything?

Had a similar problem on a C5, I ignored it and eventually the gearbox would only select 3rd. It was a faulty fuse box in the engine bay. Citroen are aware of this issue and changed it under warranty.

Favourite for the headlight alignment is that the bulbs are not seating, I recently went a week dazzling everyone on dip, turned out the bulbs were not seated, check it first, might be a quick fix.

I replaced mine with a set from a well known auction site, they have slots instead of holes and are much better than the OEM type.

A lexia check on my 2009 C5 2.0 hdi shows the EGR has an open circuit, however , no warning light and no running issues. all the fuses are good and I had the EGR replaced. The main dealer has checked the programming and is unable to find a fault. His advice is to live with it and I am happy to take that advice. Just goes to show not all faults are faults and not all codes need investigating. I would stick with checking the solenoid as a first port of call then as advised check for split hoses. If you do go down the route of cleaning the EGR take it off the car to do it, the spray cleaners can cause more issues than they fix.

No its not necessary its just sensible, you risk blowing fuses or even starting a fire under the dash. For the small amount of effort required why would you risk it?

As the report is recommending bio diesel be added to improve lubrication, perhaps a drop of crisp and dry might be the answer!

Hope you get to this through the spam. Try this, costs nothing and is worth a go. Open the drivers window and the bonnet, close the doors have all accessories off Disconnect the battery for three minutes, reconnect the battery and turn on the side lights through the window (dont open the door) wait for 15 seconds then put the key in the lock and turn to the on position, dont start the car. Press and hold the lock button on the key for 10 seconds. Remove the key and try all the doors for locking/ unlocking. start the car. If all works the problem is cured, if new problems occur repeat the process (This reboots the ECU and sincronises the keys to the locks) I think the sidelight may be a bulb!

Your front spheres have gone, I would only replace them as they fail so I would leave the others

Just a thought but the fuel filter needs to be replaced every 40000 miles, if you havent done it it could be fuel starvation