MikeLane

"I would go and get and old beetle (ok probably more than £4k) and do it up :)" http://www.volksworld.com/classifieds/beetle-for-sale/1973-beautiful-turquoise-1303-beetle-needs-a-new-loving-home-advert

Re: letting engine idle after a run.... It's a good idea to let the engine idle for a short while after starting so the oil has a chance to lubricate the turbo.

"go with the 2.0 hdi c5. These run forever and will do mileage into the hundreds of thousands" 2004 - 2008 (Seem to be a lot of problems with the X7) ??

Sometimes on a hot day or after a "hard" run, the fan will stay on after the ignition is turned off and the car locked.

One could buy acetone in bottles in French supermarkets a few years ago - not sure if it's possible now. I used to thin the decanted cellulose paint (after shaking the tube hard for a couple of minutes) with a drop or two of acetone, just enough to make it "runny" and not dry almost immediately. As you say, using the brush in the tube makes the repair proud and often overlap the scratch or chip.

One used to buy small bottles of paint which exactly matched your car's colour from Citroen Garages. Don't know whether they are still available but I found that the brush in the bottle is rather large. I used to pour a little paint into a shallow "dish" (like a jam pot lid) and thin it with cellulose thinner (or nail varnish remover) and carefully fill the scratch with several layers using a fine artists paint brush and allowing the paint to dry between layers. It's a bit fiddly but.....

Just watched a couple of videos about Colour Magic and the upshot is, don't expect too much!

" For the 2008 on C5 (X7) model in Citroen's service box procedures, the lds tank can split if it is jacked up and the wheels left hanging if the tank cap is not slackened before jacking up" This is crazy! Does it mention it in the owner's handbook? Makes changing a wheel after a puncture a potential nightmare.

just had a look here and it says that Citroen C3s have had a Thatcham alarm as standard since 2002 http://thatchamfitters.co.uk/car/cars-with-factory-fitted-thatcham-security/citroen.htm

Possibly the DMF. Mine made a lot of noise, particularly when the engine was pulling hard (e,g, going up a steep hill) and it finally broke about 500 miles after the noise started.

A Bit late I know but I found this on the web in a Daily Telegraph dated Sept 10th 2014 after a chap at the chip shop in a DX3 Cabriolet told me that his model is the last that will carry the Citroen chevron: " Citroën has confirmed that its DS brand is to be separated from its parent for good, which means future European-market DS models won't feature any Citroën badging. According to the company, Citroëns will be defined by affordability and practicality, while DS-badged cars will major on distinctive styling, sophisticated equipment, and luxuriously-appointed interiors."

A bit late but I found this article in the Telegraph dated 10th Sept 2014: "Citroën has confirmed that its DS brand is to be separated from its parent for good, which means future European-market DS models won't feature any Citroën badging. According to the company, Citroëns will be defined by affordability and practicality, while DS-badged cars will major on distinctive styling, sophisticated equipment, and luxuriously-appointed interiors." (I looked it up on the net after a bloke at the chip shop in a DS3 Cabriolet told me that his model would be the last to carry the Citroen chevron!)

Is it only one CD/DVD that it can't read ? If so, wash the CD with washing up liquid, dry it with a cotton cloth and try again. If it can't read any then try a "Laser Lens Cleaner" - a disk with a couple of small brushes.This will brush clean the laser in the DVD/CD player and 90% of the time fix the problem.

Have you seen this? Not sure which model you have but Hydractive 3+ was fitted to Exclusives and these had "Stiffness Acumulators" front and rear.

Just found my receipt for plastic nuts and clips for the wheel arch liner. The parts are: 8211WV Hog Ring (30p each) 712731 Plastic Nut (92p each) 6991X7 Blind Rivet (32p each) all prices exclude VAT I bought 5 off each for £9.24 (just in case as one or two were broken when I removed the liner looking for a water leak)

From the Haynes manual it looks as though you have to remove the hub from the driveshaft before you can withdraw the driveshaft. Make sure the hub doesn't rotate before slackening the nut. (Get someone to press the brake pedal hard!) Then drain the transmission, Slacken and remove the lower balljoint nut and free the balljoint from the lower suspension arm. Remove the protector plate if it's loose. (Note: always use a new balljoint nut on re-assembly.) Release the wiring harness from the retaining bracket on the inner wing. Carefully pull the hub carrier assembly outwards and withdraw the outer CV joint form the hub assembly. Support the driveshaft and carefully withdraw the inner CV joint from the transmission. Be careful not to damage the driveshaft oil seal. Then remove the driveshaft. As I said, this is from the Haynes manual but I've not done it myself! Hope it helps.

Great news!

Sounds like a short circuit to me - maybe in the fusebox, as if the immobilser circuit is being mis-routed through this lamp (or through the cabling/fuse where the circuitry originates.) Might show up on a Lexia? Have you checked for voltage in the lampholder when ignition is off and bulb removed?

My Mk2 C5 uses three different plastic fixings to hold the wheel arch liner in place! One is Rivet 6991 X7 but I can't find the part numbers of the other two. They are 1. a different type of rivet with a squarish headed pin (which almost disappears inside the body) and 2. A flanged (about 12mm dia.) plastic nut. I went to the local Citroen dealer and he was able to find them on his on-line maintenance manual and order them. 5 off each cost about £10 (I think!). I was surprised that he didn;t have them in stock but he said there are so many different types of plastic fixings that he orders them for each job!

Sounds like the DMF to me. Mine did this for a couple of hundred miles before failing (on a double yellow line!).

" When my previous C5 was 4 years old" (and out of warranty!) But check the battery first. You may have a dud or high resistance cell. Test the voltage whilst operating the starter. A good battery should keep above 12 volts.

Probably not worth the extra cost. All petrol cars have been designed to run on 95 for many years now. 99 octane might be better for old sports cars though (BP Super, Esso Extra etc.... plenty of lead in those fuels!)

The government may re-introduce the scrappage scheme to increase new car sales as Paul says. It's probably a ruse to get around EU rules!

But Citroen replaced it with the DS! (Talk about innovation!)

Dutch registered? I think there are more 2CVs in Holland (when they're not holidaying in France) than owned by the French!