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Ussually you will find the head gasket is leaking at the corner just above the alternator......its a main oil gallery

The central hub nut Torque setting is 185NM or 136 pound foot......either way its "F.T."

Its funny, 1st time i drove one when they were released i heard the noise and spoke to the other senior tech.......he'd heard it too........we both said we were suprised and that it was going to cause us problems (customers dont like noises). Weve probably had half a dozen comments on it, replaced it with no effect, wrapped one foamjust made a different noise :D . Doesnt cause a problem, isnt a fault TADT

In my experience the build quality of the C4 isnt that bad, very few come in with bits fallen off and most owners are very satisfied with the vehicle. We have several C4's out there with high mileage...... Brake noises and suspension units squeaking are a source of iritation. I'm glad to say that fixes are available and we can at least contact the owners to resolve these issues. Unfortunately, when you have cars of such mileage they are subjected to a pretty hard life.....the UK roads arn't very forgiving. For a vehicle that hasnt been around too long its proving to be reliable, we dont have rows of them parked outside waiting for spares, we dont dread the owners coming in, and the technicians are happy working on them.....thats always a good sign! Theres always someone out there thats going to be disatisfied and will have had more faults than considered acceptable.......and thats with any manufacturer.

basically.....as simple as possible....... fuel tanks nowadays are sealed and not allowed to vent to atmosphere.....hydrocarbons being bad for the atmosphere etc..........so how do they allow the tank to vent and get rid of the hydrocarbons (vapour)? They fit a charcoal canister under the wing and a pipe runs from the fuel tank to the canister......the canister then has a pipe that connects to the inlet manifold. At a predetermined time the canister valve will open and close....the speed of its opening and closing is determined by many factors. when it opens it vents the hydrocarbons into the inlet manifold where they can be burnt.....the clickng noise you here is the valve opening and closing, it sounds like a single tappet loose.

presume the ticking noise you can hear at idle sounds like it might be coming from somewhere near the drivers door hinge pillar area......particularly annoying when sitting at traffic lights without the radio on.......if its a petrol model then its likely to be the cannister valve doing its stuff. As for a cure.......well they all do it, so its a pretty standard characteristic. Get your dealer to have a listen, see if they agree that thats the noise

The thing to be remembered about window tinting is whilst the car may look good, it wont do anything to your street cred if you pull out in front of a motorbike because you couldnt see it coming. The regulations are there not so much because people cant see you but because it affects what you can see.

You shouldnt fill the tank to the brim apart from the problem you are getting it can also have an affect on the pressure build up inside the tank. Current regulations state that the fuel system does not vent to the atmosphere. this means that when you leave your car in the sun and the fuel warms up it has to have somewhere to expand to. Similarly when the vehicle is returning its hot unwanted fuel back to the tank it also needs an air gap in the top of the tank to avoid it building up excessive pressure. With regards to why your now dumping fuel.......maybe the excess pressure has caused one of the return pipes on top of the tank to split or become detached.

Go have a look at the tyre valves fitted to the wheels. If it has the correct ones fitted all the tyre valves will have rigid metal stems - ussually silver in colour, if it has an incorrect valve fitted it will have a flexible rubber stem, black in colour. If it has a black rubber tyre valve fitted to one or more of the wheels this will be the cause of your problem - maybe the tyre fitter damaged the original when he ripped it out? Alternatively, if you find one has a rubber valve take a look at your spare and see if it has a solid one fitted. If this is the case fit the spare to the car in place of the wheel with the rubber valve......hopefully this is the answer cos its cheapest. The vehicle only comes with 4 sensors the spare wheel always has a normal valve and when fitted to the vehicle will come up with this fault message. Hope this helps you.

Life would be boring if you couldnt write about it :D

Yes it will run on it........citroen dont recomend it .........and it rots the rubber pipes

in the glovebox with the fuse box

Its connected to the diagnostic equipment and then the internet to a remote server. Sometimes we have the software on a CD. The information from the vehicle computer is extracted by the diagnostic machine, sent to the server and compared for later information that maybe available. A bit like how windows does its updates. As far as corruption is concerned. Various things can cause it, poor battery health being one of them. A bit extreme.....but think about your windows operated computor......if you unplug it to turn it off it doesnt like it and will take an age to restart. It sounds as if your gear selection or clutch actuator had forgotton what they were doing and consequently became confused (the * flashing). If the battery voltage is low on starting this can occur....does the radio loose its memory settings or the clock need resetting? As far as corrupt software......i would tend to say that its probably a wrong description.......that tends to be said when no one has a definite answer. In my experience battery voltage is the biggest problem. If you get a problem wont engage gear: foot on brake.......keep it there......turn on ignition......wait patiently with foot on brake.......watch the display and listen......with foot on brake. If your lucky you will hear the gearbox clank about as it tries to find its settings......after about 2 minutes you should see an'N' on your display....when you do try to start the car. obviously the above wont work if you have a flat battery or the clutch/gear actuators have failed........if you have another car with jumpleads it helps the gearselection process due to the high current drain.

What i would say to you and others in this situation, if you are making a complaint thread, about a dealer, that they should be treated with an element of constructiveness.

Dont know of one specifically, but the Citroen UK dealer list is Here

Just a thought....to diagnose which door motor is faulty. Try the passenger one first, no reason other than it sounds to be that one. Remove the interior door trim and gain acces to the two connectors, i believe if you unplug one of the connectors it will allow the motor to workbut stops it sending a signal to the other door.....its this signal thats causin the motors to 'bounce'. If removing it cures the problem you need a neew door lock motor that side. If you order a motor you'll be glad to here it fits both doors, so if you guess wrong you can whip it out and fit it in the other door. :D

Sounds like it could be an actuator, might be worth checking for broken wires in the gaitors bt the front door hinges though

To reset the window anti pinch you will have to disconnect the battery for a few seconds then reconnect. Once the window is wound all the way down you wind it up (suprise suprise), it will go up in stages so you have to keep pressing the button every time it stops. When it gets to the top of its travel, providing there isnt anything else wrong with it you should be able to hold the up button for about 5 seconds....this will reset the anti pinch position and should operate normally from then on. If there is a problem with the window regulator it may stop you doing that and you will still have the problem......you will need to do it with all your windows and then reset your clock. Now for the warning: I did one of these once, set everything up and then found the car wouldnt start. If that happens close the doors (key in hand), wander round to the front passenger door and operate the locks using the key blade. Then back round to the drivers side and open door using blade. The car should start. If the remote control looses its memory, put key in ignition, turn it to the position before cranking and press the locking button on the remote for 10 seconds. Remove the key and...................... ....................wait 2 minutes................. try to resist the urge to press it and see if it works because the car is trying to save the programed key in that 2 minutes, you'll just make it take longer.

C8's dont suffer with problems of this kind, so obviously unles the fault occurs whilst the garrage is driving it its unlikely they will come up with an answer. when you say it makes a grinding noise, does this apear to be from inside or outside the car, left or right hand side? For the brake pedal to go all the way to the floor you would expect to find the mastercylinder had failed......but that wouldnt make a grinding noise. However,.......and this may be worth considering.... if you applied the brake pedal normally and then panicked because of the travel......i wonder if its kicking the abs into use because it suddenly stops abruptly......is that the grinding noise....and the pedal pulses (stutters)? You say you have had other problems with the car, without going into detail and confusing this post, did the fault occur after any repairs had be carried out.......driveshaft replacement, wheel bearing, abs fault maybe? do you feel in general that the brake pedal drops over time even though the 'full fault' isnt present? Sorry there are lots of questions, you've probably answered them over and over again..........but the only thing i would suggest at the moment would be a leaking master cylinder loosing pressure......do you have to top up your brake fluid? And one last question, any idea when the brakes were last bled, have they got air in the abs block through not being bled properly?

My personal view on this is that whilst the owner reports that 'they clearly had never been changed' it should also be considered that with regard to pollen filters and air filters they are replaced annually or every 12,500 miles on this model. At a year old they do look dirty, they are blocked.........thats why they're replaced......I think it would be unwise to mention names on the basis that nothing is proven. If the owner does have something to say about it they would do better to present the dealership concerned with the facts and ask them to respond. As i see it the dealership has done nothing wrong. The owner on the other hand was obviously wary of the cost and decided to shop around for alternatives. After all its 3 years old, the warranties expired and who wouldnt? Maybe because of the difference in price of service you feel dissatisfied with your dealer.......i can assure you that it isnt just diagnostic computers that are the difference. The independent chosen has obviously instilled a degree of confidence and you have seen that your filters have been replaced. I wonder if this time next year you might have a different opinion when there repaced again and you realise the're dirty!!

At what stage does it become acceptable to start having problems?

Usual problems with alarms are either bonnet swiches, located on the bonnet catch or the interior ultrasonic sensers. To isolate the ultrasonic sensors and see if there at fault you could try the following: on the dash there will be a switch with a picture of a siren with a big cross on it. With the ignition off and before you get out of the car, depress the button for about 5 seconds. Pressing the button tells the alarm computer you want to arm the alarm but not have the ultrasonic sensors working (allows you to leave an animal in the vehicle for instance). Having depressed the button for the required time you willfind that the alarm LED will come on and stay on. Exit the vehicle and lock the car with the remote control. If the alarm still has the same fault it isnt the ultrasonics causing the problem......if the problem is cured by doing this you need a new pair of sensors (or you might want to try disconnecting them). To isolate the bonnet switch catch from the problem disconnect it.....the connector is somewhere under the front grill bt the headlamp.....cant remember what side but its the only electrical onnection to the bonnet catch. You might find that upon disconnecting the bonnet switch or ultrasonic sensors that the alarm gives a 'chirp' when you arm it......this is normal , its telling you somethings disconnected. Obviously the above assumes its a citroen alarm

Wont be long before you pass sensors in the road that can slow your car down for you and stop you exceeding speed limits, so i doubt the other ideas are far away either. Problem is if you have 'hands free driving' and the steering detects a fault will it go into limphome mode ? and if it fails totally how quick will the car come to a hallt?.

at this stage in the game its probably a bit late to put in any additives. I'd wory more that the gearbox hasnt failed internally. Gear Oil: Total Transmission BV SAE 75W - 80

Seems a bit young to have suspension problems., but it could be one or both of the rear suspension bearings.....assuming of course the it isnt a heatshield arround the exhaust resting on the subframe