kfk

or post them here http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citro...?showtopic=7172

Have you carried out checks and physically confirmed the alternator is charging and that the belt hasnt come off?.....have you stuck your head under the dashboard on the drivers side and checked to see if it has a power supply on the pins as described? My personal view is that either the switch has failed or more likely the blower motor......but unless you check for voltages at the conector you will be guessing.....as i am at the moment. As for the relay theory......yes there is a relay.....but its likely it will either work or not work.....and to make it work it requires the alternator to be charging.........so..........if you check for a power feed at the blower motor you will find either it has power....and the fault will require the blower motor to be replaced. Or it has no power feed and you will have to go back down the circuit to see where it has been lost. Let me know if you have no power supply at the motor.

as you say if the pas is working its unlikely to be the ignition switch at fault.........i would be inclined to remove the connector from the blower motor and check for voltages on the pins the wires come from the switch and if you have a multimeter you should get diferent voltages on each wire as the blower switch is operated pin 1 = 1st speed 2 = 2nd speed & 3 = 3rd speed...the 4th pin should go to earth. Some thing to consider.....if the alternator isnt charging the blower motor wont work....check the fan belt etc.

If your talking about Diesel have you checked the fuel pump in the tank....is it noisy....could it be failing....do you have one you could try in the car your breaking? A Pcode is logged when the computer notices a measurement/parameter that is out of tolerance.....it doesnt mean the component is faulty, it merely points you in the area you need to start checking. Checking consists of ensuring conections are good, shortcircuits dont exist, voltage and earths exist where required and that whatever component on the end of the wire is serviceable. After this you have the other issues to consider that arnt electrical......for instance.....if you are lacking fuel at the injectors is it becuase you lack fuel in the tank.....and just because theres fuel in the tank is it able to get out and up to the engine?.....the fuel regulator will produce faults where insuffient fuel is present....if the scavenge pump is lacking supply pressure the computer will controll the regulator to give maximum fuel, if it still cant get enough fuel the car will look at the fuel pressure sensor, see lack of pressure and log this as a fault..........so back to the question......is the pump in the tank able to supply sufficient fuel (filter on pump not blocked) and does it fail when it gets hot due to overheating?

Casting my eyes over this posting.......clarification over the title please........an RLZ engine is fitted to the petrol HPI......are you talking about the RHZ engine as fitted to the Diesel HDI ?

i wouldnt squirt wd40 into it......the stalk your talking about just pulls out of the main switch assy.....seem to remember its about £30.

If your going to check for fuel economy under motorway conditions i would try doing it at 60 - 70 mph....90mph may feel comfortable but i would guess the vehicle is starting to run out of steam and thus requiring a heavier foot to maintain the speed. 40mpg at 90mph sounds pretty good though.....if you want to use less fuel slow down a bit.

.......and i was begining to think you lived here :lol:

yes normal.....assuming it says something ,like 12000 miles after it

An ecu of of another vehicle, for example purchsed from a breakers yard, wont fit on your vehicle without replacing the vehicle main computer and also the ignition switch assembly.......the key is coded to the BSI, the BSI is matched to the injection ecu. If your handy with a soldering iron or know someone who is: Remove the ECU remove cover from ecu, trace the pin that is broken and find where it appears inside the ecu......solder a wire to it...drill a small hole in ecu case, poke wire through....seal around hole and wire. Find wire in plug connector that matches with corroded pin and join the wire to it.....hey presto you have bypassed the faulty connector and its cost you a bit of time.....a bit of wire......in my opinion its worth a go.....and i know it works.

press the button on the bottom left ...the one with the 000 on.

Along the bottom of the instrument panel clear glass you will see two moulding marks in the plastic....slide something thin and flat (credit card) between the instrument panel and the dashboard. gently pull on the trip control knob and the instrument panel will pull forward.....unclip the electrical connector and slide the instrument panel out from behind the steering wheel........if it takes you longer than ten minutes your doing something wrong.

http://www.lockwoodinternational.co.uk/dia...hicles-c53.html http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Speedometer-Conversi...1027117001r9405

http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citro...1&hl=NEEDLE Give them a read

considering you are trying to repair a fault, and are possibly unsure as to whether the part you are about to replace is the culprit.....i would use a genuine part. Why?......because when it hasnt cured the fault you wont be wondering if the 'pattern part' is correct for the vehicle.

try checking fuse 1 in the under bonnet fuse box

I would recommend that to obtain the correct part number of the part you require you take your chassis number to your local dealer and they will provide the correct number. Alternatively: register here: http://service.citroen.com you can put your own chassis number in and confirm the part you require is the bit you are looking at!

2 suggestions: 1st, the wiper arms need to be removed completely, turn on ignition, operate wipers and turn wipers off, wait for wipers to park, turn off ignition, refit wiper blades in correct positions and test. other option remove wiper arms completely, remove trim panel above wiper motor and gain access to wiper motor linkage. Check linkages and make sure not bent.....this is a common occurance when wipers operated and blades frozen with ice to screen. If linkage is bent you will probably be able to straigten it to improve the situation.

Without knowing the original code overiding the imobilizer isnt something you can do (it wouldnt be an imobilizer if you could). Having said that.......maybe if you explain the problem your having someone here might be able to offer some suggestions.

So what is the average miles per hour according to the computer that you have travelled at to achieve you fuel economy?

http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citro...p?showforum=178 Images can be posted there and subject to moderation will appear on the site......you will find reason for this on the link......i might add that we went through a spate of unwanted images being posted on the forum, together with a lot of unwanted threads....over the last week a good few hours have been spent identifying and removing 'new members' before they start spamming. KFK

If it was the switch contacts melted, yes it could work after the event......it happens on picassos.

Rather than sticking your head in the sand and thinking you have fixed it, now is the time to consider finding out what went wrong. To my mind there is one of 3 options: 1, the steering lock mechanism became jammed. 2, the lock wards/key are worn and wouldnt allow the key to turn in the lock. 3, the electrical contacts on the bottom of the ignition switch overheated & melted, when cooled down it fused together and stopped the key turning in the barrel. Whichever fault caused it a new lock barrel is required to ensure it doesnt leave you stranded or be the cause of an accident. Whilst the ignition lock is now rotating it will allow the lock barel to be removed fairly easily......if it doesnt rotate the method for removal is far more agressive and time consuming. No one likes spending money on there vehicles......and i for one dont like trying to extract hard earned cash from customers.....but there comes a point where you have to consider it wont get better and that you have just experienced the first signs of failure.

Not up north, but you might want to give these a call, have found them reliable in the past: http://www.sspengineering.co.uk/

and before we go anywhere on this one, dont go putting reddex or similar additives into the eolys tank, i'm not sure what the point is that Techbod is making here........maybe you would like to expand a bit?