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How about tking the Vin number to your local Citroen dealer and ask them if they can help.....i know they can, its just a case of how much they will charge.

It must be convenient to have someone like this to 'come to you', but at £60 +vat for a diagnostic check it doesnt sound particularly cheap for a 'man in a van'. I currently quote £69 +vat at a main dealer for the same thing, and have the facility to loan a vehicle if the need arises. As far as doing 'Stuff', (thats a technical word), that the dealer cant do, i dont see anything on the list that is unnusual for a main dealer......but they may draw the line at working by the side of the road......why would we when we have a nice cosy workshop to keep us warm?

thread merged.....hope its the right one

Dim display......remove it and replace the defective bulbs No power at the Horn?......so is there power at the fuse?

.....maybe its not a frequently asked question......someone has to be first! As for the oil cap coming off.......could it bee that the large black plastic engine cover is insecure and knocks it off due to vibration?.......temporary cure......remove engine cover whilst you obtain new rubber mountings for it......cost.....about £15 for 4

Sounds cheaper than the UK to me.....Parts are probably about the same price but i think you will find their labour rate is cheaper. Had an invoice shown to me from france recently and it worked out there labour rate was about £56 per hour before tax........uk rates average around £75 per hour +vat

Vehicles sold from 1st September no longer have a 1st service at 1000 miles.......i havent had chance to look at the new sevice books but i seem to remember that maintenance schedules are now annually.......seems a good time to read the service book.

Must admit i hadnt noticed your comment about 5bar pressure.

Fuel pressure regulator (low pressure fuel circuit) The low pressure regulator controls the pressure of the fuel in the low pressure circuit . Circuit pressure : + 5 bar . The low pressure regulator is fixed on the tank unit/fuel pump module . High pressure fuel pump An internal valve limits the pressure on the high pressure piping (specific rating = 130 bars) Fuel high pressure regulator The high pressure fuel varies between 30 and 100 bar . I dont know of it being any different between models......after all 5 bar isnt really high pressure

might be worth checking the brake fluid level is correct.......f noise persists try disconnecting the switch from the top of the mastercylinder reservoir....but only if your sure it has brake fluid in it! low brrake fluid/faulty level switch tends to occur when braking while going down hill or cornering.

My reason for contributing to this is not to 'Knock' your quick fix, but to put forward suggestions as to what you have have done (disconnected) and what the by product might be of the quick fix. It is important that people reading the thread are clear what vehicle it relates to and what the effect of carrying out the mod could be in the longterm. Hopefully the post wil generate some comments from the others that are here.

The thing that concerns me here is that disconnecting the wire hasnt resolved the problem to a state that you can say you have 'repaired the vehicle'. Having checked out a wiring diagram i'm guessing you have disconnected the downstream exhaust gas high temperature sensor (black 10 way connector pin no 6) .....why this is causing the vehicle to come out of limp home mode i couldnt say. With regard to the blocked particle filter and additive require replenishing. the long term effect of not replacing the particle filter is it will block further and without additive will be unable to carry out a regeneration of the system......the end product will be lack of power and high fuel consumption. Just as a thought ....what do we think the purpose of the high temperature sensor in the exhaust is for? ......maybe to ensure the temperature doesnt become too great and thus inform the injection ecu to stop regeneration functions when exhaust gasses become too high.....under normal conditions exhaust gasses will reach around 450c during regeneration....you wouldnt a want to stand behind it.

Maybe i should have asked how long the wire is so i know where half is.......i wouldnt want to cut it in the wrong place! Seriously though.......it would be interesting to have a bit more information about this work around to a problem........like what vehicle it relates too

what does the yellow wire do?

just bouncing an idea around here......up to you if you think its worth progressing: The original pump provides pressure all the while the engine is running.....so its only means of shutting fuel of is if the engine stalls........so with the electric pump......how about using a split charging relay type setup so it takes a feed when the pump in tank is energised? The low pressure pump recieves a supply for a few seconds on ignition on, and then again once the engine is started.....you could use this supply as a trigger for a suitable relay....fused close to the connection......using a rlay in this manner wouldnt pose a problem for the circuit as it is very low current draw. A suitable power supply could be sourced from the 'bolt on' connector in the underbonnet fusebox.....again fused close to the connection. In the event the engine cuts out (stalls) the power to the low pressure pump would cease, and so would the trigger for the high pressure pump....thus shutting it off. What do you think?

The fault doesnt have to be electrical.....the code refers to fuel pressure.....the question is.....does the low pressure pump work?.....is it working when you press the throttle pedal?......if its working is it supplying enough pressure?......if it hasnt enough pressure where is it loosing it?.....has the fuel filter been replaced recently?.........was it just the element or the complete housing?......is there fuel in the tank?........and then we get to electrical....... has it a good power supply and earth at the pump?.....if it says 12v on a multimeter try connecting a 21w bulb across it and see if it illuminates.......if there is no power at the pump check to see if there is power going in and out of the injection pump relay when running.......maybe supply a permenant supply to the pump and see if the cutting out is overcome....... There are lots of things to be checked.....unfortunately, a code reader will only get you to the first stage of the diagnosis and a knowledge of electrical/injection systems is required to progress further.

well there are some wierd people out there.

Does it sound like someone tapping a ringed finger against the windscreen......and does it happen when you start it up? If so i would think its one of the heater box control flap motors.....time to get your head up under the dash board i think!........the good thing is being left hand drive you wont have the pedals getting in your way like we do in the UK.

A little more information.....like petrol, diesel...manual auto, engine size and the mount you are taking about as there are 3 that hold them in

Jack the front of the vehicle and spin the wheels to see if there are any distorted tyres/wheels

Intake Air Temperature Sensor Open/Short To Positive. P1161

No the original radio wont need a code, but if you fitted a new radio to the car that would need to be coded.

in the days when vehicles were fitted with manual belt tensioners....bx, zx etc....at 72,000 miles you could slidethe old belt off without slackening the tensioners......you would find it nigh on impossible to get he new one on using the same method though. Thing is.....if you took it to the local citroen dealer you would expect the job done properly.....correct?....so where is the benefit in doing it yourself without the correct tension and wondering if it will be ok or for how long it will be ok? A replacement belt should last the same duration as one fitted at the factory.....if it isnt tensioned correctly it wont last the duration and there is no knowing when it will need changing next....not to mention overtightning the belt will cause premature failure of tensioners and water pump.

The problem with using the old belt tension as a guide is that it has potentially done 100,000 miles and become slack due to age. If you fit a belt under the method you describe how slack will your new belt be in 100,000 miles.....in fact will it get that far before it causes you problems? Ultimately its a job you dont want to be worrying if you have done it right.....and you definately dont want it failing on you 18 months after you have fitted it because you took a short cut.

I often wonder at questions that ask where they can get something for their pride and joy :( ........so i have to ask.....have you tried your Citroen dealer? :o The Citroen Main dealer price is £7.17 inc vat.......to me that sounds a good deal.....am i missing something in this post? :angry: