
kfk
Admin-
Posts
1,156 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Downloads
Gallery
Everything posted by kfk
-
Might be a stupid question......but i'll ask anyway.........have you got air conditioning, if you have does it do this with the air con on or with it off as well?
-
Independent C5 Specialist Faversham/sittingborne Area
kfk replied to a topic in Questions about the Citroen C5
All i know is they are a Citroen approved workshop -
Independent C5 Specialist Faversham/sittingborne Area
kfk replied to a topic in Questions about the Citroen C5
I dont know of any independents out that way specialising in Citroen a couple in the Medway Towns...why not try Hidsons @ Rainham. -
Independent C5 Specialist Faversham/sittingborne Area
kfk replied to a topic in Questions about the Citroen C5
is this for replacing front brake pads or something more citroen specific? -
Think simple...its ussually cheaper
-
anyone can do any job given the required tools, time & knowledge. The system needs to be depressurised first, to do this the engine must be off, suspension in lowest setting & slacken 12mm bolt on regulator body by one full turn......if you dont do this you and anyone near you will get very wet with LHM. Remove the brake dozeur....it unbolts....i wont explain how to do that as it will be self explanitory. replace the brake dozeur, use new rubber seals on the pipes......put the rubber seal on pipe and insert into hole......dont put seal into hole and push pipe in as it will cut the inside of the seal and leak. When tightening the pipes they only need to be nipped up....dont over tighten them as you will damage the pipe end.... the rubber seal works! Having refitted the dozeur and pipes you need to bleed the brakes.....at this stage you have no pressure in the brake circuit....so pumping the brake pedal isnt going to do anything. with 2 people ....one person apply brake pedal.....just press and hold down....no need to pump! open the brake bleed valve on first front brake caliper and connect bleed pipe tighten 12 mm bolt on accumulator start car........at this point you should see fluid flow from the brake caliper tighten bleed nipple when air bubbles dissappear. turn off engine and undo 12mm bolt on accumulator to release any pressure in the system Repeat the above for the other front wheel. When bleeding the rear brakes the suspension will need to be in high and you may need to apply pressure with the use of a jack to the underside of the hub assy......rear brake pressure comes from the rear suspension spheres!......obviously if you jack up the arm with the suspension in high, apply the brake pedal and release the bleed nipple you will get fluid out......so get ready to catch it. Have fun
-
presumably you decided to take the vehicle from the main dealer after the diagnosis and have a cheaper alternative fitted. It maybe the the light will go out in the next 48 hours.....if not you need to return to the dealer and get it rechecked in case the computer requires resetting......you dont want to drive it too much with the light on as it could damage your new catalytic convertor.
-
A main dealer will normally be more expensive than an independent, however if your walking in there asking them how much to replace belt, tensioners, water pump, replace antifreeze.....then you are giving them a shopping list to work with and the opportunity to sort out some discount. Its possible your main dealer parts department would be keen to make a sale and offer you discount that the service department wont! Its also possible you can get hold of quality parts that are considerably cheaper then citroen boxed items.....in which case you could get someone to agree a price to fit them. The important thing to remember is the replacement is being carried out to save you the expense of major engine damage......so you need to trust that whoever is going to fit the parts and the quality of the parts are going to achieve that......saving £100 sounds great, providing its not at the expense of the guarantee.
-
The brakes on the Xantia dont use a conventional master cylinder, but instead use a component called a brake dozeur. The Dozeur is effectively a valve that allows passage of fluid under high pressure to reach the brakes, and when released allows the pressure you have sent to the brakes to be released and thus allow the vehicle to roll. So to stop the car you press the pedal.....the valve is moved inside its housing untill the oil ways line up....all the while the pedal is pressed the oil ways will remain aligned. When releasing the brakes a large spring inside the dozeur pushes the valve back towards the pedal......this aligns a different set of oil ways and allows the pressure to be released within the brake circuit......if the valve is siezed or the spring is weak it will cause a delay in the return of the valve assy. this document has some nice pictures on page 46 and will help explain the operation. I dont think you will have air in the circuit: If the brakes had air in the system the usual description of the fault on a xantia would be 'I apply the brakes and they respond a second or so after.....or if braking gently the brakes seem to grip - release - grip - release.
-
the red buton is probably the led for the alarm.....does it illuminate when you lock the car using the remote control?
-
The mileage & time limit are there to give you an indication of the latest you should consider getting the belt replaced......now obviously you can leave it till the last minute if you wish.....but it isnt advisable. When replacing the belt its adviseable to replace the roller tensioners and water pump.....after all when the new belt is fitted it will be tighter than the old and likely to cause failure of the bearings. I would consider replacing the belt when you can afford it, or around 80k, especially if you havent owned the vehicle from new.....time to start saving.
-
If memory serves me correctly the remote keys have a number inside them.....and the receiver in the car also has a number on it......to work the numbers need to be the same......as i said.....if memory serves me correctly........you could open the remote fob and have a look see if it has a number.....and check the fob you have and the sensor in the roof up by the interior light.
-
Take a look HERE
-
So are you getting any voltage at all to the oxygen sensors?
-
what pcode are you getting?
-
I might add that the HPi isnt always that easy to get codes from using aftermarket scanners......if you unplug anything do you get a fault code?.....the following are codes that can be generated by the HPi injection ECU. Signal - Inlet manifold pressure sensor P0106 - P0107 - P0108 - P0105 Signal - Air temperature sensor P0112 - P0113 - P0110 Signal - Engine coolant temperature sensor P0116 - P0117 - P0118 - P0115 Butterfly position sensor - 1 signal P0122 - P0123 - P0120 Richness adjustment P0130 - P0133 Signal - Upstream oxygen sensor P0131 - P0132 Oxygen sensor heating control (upstream of the catalytic converter) P0135 Signal - Downstream oxygen sensor P0137 - P0138 - P0139 - P0136 Oxygen sensor heating control (downstream of the catalytic converter) P0141 Fuel injection P0170 Petrol injector N° 1 control P0201 - P0262 - P0261 Petrol injector N° 2 control P0203-P0268 - P0267 Petrol injector N° 3 control P0204 - P0271 - P0270 Petrol injector N° 4 control P0202 - P0265 - P0264 Accelerator pedal sensor ; Incoherence of signals 1 and 2 P0221 Accelerator pedal sensor ; 1 signal P0222 - P0223 - P0220 Accelerator pedal sensor ; 2 signal P0227 - P0228 - P0225 Ignition misfiring on more than one cylinder or cylinder unknown P0300 Ignition misfiring (cylinder n° 1) P0301 Ignition misfiring (cylinder n° 2) P0302 Ignition misfiring (cylinder n° 3) P0303 Ignition misfiring (cylinder n° 4) P0304 Signal - Knock sensor P0326 - P0327 - P0329 - P0325 Signal - Engine speed sensor P0336 - P0338 - P0335 - P0339 Cylinder reference sensor 1 P0341 Ignition coil 1 control P0351 Ignition coil 2 control P0352 Ignition coil 3 control P0353 Ignition coil 4 control P0354 Air pump relay control P0413 - P0414 - P0412 Catalytic converter ageing P0420 Fuel vapour recycling P0440 Canister purging electrovalve control P0444 - P0445 - P0443 GMV operated at fast speed : 1 electric cooling fan unit (relay) P0480 GMV operated at fast speed : 2 electric cooling fan unit (relay) P0481 Signal - Vehicle speed sensor P0502 - P0503 - P0500 Air conditioning pressure P0532 - P0533 Power steering stop information P0551 - P0553 Battery voltage P0562 - P0563 - P0560 Cruise control switch information P0568 Petrol injection ECU P0606 - P1152 - P0601 Butterfly position check P1161 Butterfly position incoherence ; Track N° 1 / pressure P1133 (*) Butterfly position incoherence ; Track N° 2 / pressure P1134 (*) Inlet manifold P1160 (*) Control - Motorised butterfly housing P1150 (*) - P1151 (*) - P1154 (*) - P1155 (*) Motorised throttle ; Incoherence of signals 1 and 2 P0121 Initialisation of the butterfly stops P1153 (*) Butterfly position sensor ; 2 signal P1157 (*) - P1158 (*) - P1156 (*) Cooling fan status P1507 (*) - P1519 (*) - P0483 - P0485 Coded engine immobiliser generation 2 P1612 (*) Fault internal to the engine management ECU P1617 (*) - P1631 (*) System fault P1621 (*) Sensor supply P0608 - P0609 GMV operated at fast speed : 1 electric cooling fan unit (relay) P0480 GMV operated at low speed : 2 electric cooling fan unit (relay) P0481 The engine ECU no longer communicates on the network U1000 Engine ECU supply P1601 - P0215 Remote Controlled Wake-Up (RCD) : Main wake-up fault U2000 Remote Controlled Wake-Up (RCD) : Partial wake-up fault U2118 Remote Controlled Wake-Up (RCD) : Incoherence between main wake-up and electrical signal U2003 Pressure / butterfly position not coherent P0105 Piloted Alternator mechanics P1674 Piloted Alternator electrics P1675 Communication with the piloted alternator P1676 Piloted thermostat control P0597 - P0598 - P0599 Accelerator pedal point of resistance information (Speed Limiter) P1614 - P1645 - P1643 - P1644 ECU not downloaded P0602 Engine running information P1657 - P1656 - P1655 Electric fuel gauge P250C - P250D - P250B Configuration P1613 Cruise control P1671 Speed limiter P1607 Dialogue with the Stop and Start ECU U1103 - U1203 Fuel gauge P0461 - P0463 - P0462 Non coherence between the 2 stop switches P0571 Variable timing electrovalve P1148 - P0075 - P1149 - P0076 -P0077 - P0012 - P0011 - P0010* Incoherence between inlet pressure and butterfly angle information P1622 (*) Engine torque delivered P1623 (*) Incorrect ESP demand P1624 (*) - P1625 (*) Incoherent information relating to the automatic gearbox P1626 (*) Non respect of the torque demanded by the driver P1627 (*) Incoherent information from the brake switch or accelerator pedal sensor P1628 (*) Incoherence between calculated mechanical friction and actual friction P1629 (*) Incoherent cruise control demand P1630 (*) No communication on the network U1003 (*) Dialogue with ABS or ESP U1113 (*) - U1213 (*) Dialogue with the BSI U1118 (*) - U1218 (*) Dialogue with the automatic gearbox U1209 (*) - U1109 (*) (*) "constructor" faults
-
Upstream oxygen sensor voltage: - In open loop : The voltage supplied by the upstream sensor should be fixed and between 0,1 and 1 volt - In closed loop : The voltage supplied by the upstream sensor should fluctuate between 0,1 and 1 volt Downstream oxygen sensor voltage: - In open loop : The voltage supplied by the downstream sensor should be fixed and between 0,1 and 1 volt - In closed loop : The voltage supplied by the downstream sensor should fluctuate very slightly and be between 0,1 and 1 volt In open loop : The ECU does not regulate the richness In closed loop : The ECU regulates the richness
-
how heavy is heavy?....have you compared with another vehicle of the same type or have you had it long enough to see a change in how it operates? Have you checked the tyre pressures?
-
nothing to mod without members...so keep it coming :D
-
As a previous post has reported the mileage for the vehicle is contained within two components....the speedometer display and the BSI, which is the vehicles main computer. Using diagnostic equipment i'm certain the recorded mileage can be viewed within the BSI, unfortunately this cannot be viewed using the same equipment in the speedometer. So......to decide whats needed the mileage within the BSI needs to be known.....worst case scenario it needs both components.......However i cant see why they have quoted this amount though....of the top of my head i totalled £1000........looking it up i came up with between £990 and £1500 dependent of the spec of the vehicle.....and that includes parts labour and vat.
-
Can you back any of this up with facts?
-
£38.55 from you local dealer
-
how about remove the instrument panel and replace the bulb behind the display that illuminates it?
-
It is normal for the fan to come on with a cold engine if the airconditioning is also on.....if you turn the air con off the fan should also stop unless required due to excess engine temperature. With regard to poor restarting when warm......its possible that one ore more of the injectors have failed internally and are causing excessive leak off on there return pipes and are unable to allow sufficient pressure to build up for correct fuel quantity to be injected. To check for fuel leak off you need to remove the rubber return pipes from the injectors and check the quantity of fuel returned down them over a period of about 5 minutes with the engine idling......you will need 4 containers to do this as you will be comparing them against eache other to see which has returned most as this will be the culprit.