Rookie2

If you have a local Motor parts direct or in fact any of the motor factors will supply a suitable thermostat, no need for genuine as I think the genuine ones are probably made by the same people who supply the motor factors.

I can tell you that a friend of mine who runs an MOT centre recommends that Cat failures during MOT put a bottle of "Forte" into the fuel tank and go fo a high rev ride for about 20 miles. He has never had a car fail on emissions after having used "Forte". It's available at spares shops for about 14.00 and on ebay for abot 9.00.

Not a problem buddy, just hope it helps

Hi Nick try this... http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/14915-stiff-gearchange/ http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/17489-problem-disengaging-fifth-gear/

Hi If it is only one of the sensors going off then it is likely that the stalk will need replacing. It could be that the previous owner drove the car with the rear seat belts continuously plugged into their respective stalks and the switch inside the nearside on is now seized or stuck. If all three were indicating a problem then I would suspect a wiring fault, as it is only one of them then the stalk is the obvious culprit. cheers

Hi I dont believe your vehicle has self levelling suspension, though it is possible. It could however have Halogen headlights and possible the ballast resistor for the headlight is faulty. In the eent that you do have self levelling suspension then look for the levelling switch located on the chassis at the front of vehicle below where the drivers feet would be.

Welcome to the forum spacepods

Arak Your first post on this subject...................... " In the morning when I start the car steering wheel vibrates like I am holding an electric saw. In fact its not only steering wheel, whole cockpit vibrates. this vibration goes off when i press on gas and engine becomes warm. when the car is on run, no vibration at all. so in a word car only vibrates from morning cold start which it even didn't do last week. It can not be the engine mounts as the vibration occurs only morning cold start. is there any idea? " I honestly believe you need to recheck the engine mounts on the car. I would guess that at least one of them has a perished rubber or split rubber or even a bolt missing. The engine when warming up is going through a fuelling stage which promotes the rapid warm up of the engine, extra fuel/air and engine advancement. This will cause extra vibration of the engine which, if it happens when an engine mount is not functioning correctly will cause severe vibrations, as would a perished rubber on a Crank Shaft Pulley. The cold rubber insert of the crankshaft pulley will, when the engine is stopped, deform into whatever position the belts pull it. So when you start the car, the pulley is not running true until the rubber insert has warmed up and become pliable allowing the pulley to run true. Which is probably why the vibrations dissappear when the engine is warm.

Cornwall, St Austell I have diagbox/pp200/lexia Also have Vag.com for VW/seat etc- registered and updated Also have an Autel Maxi DS708 which covers just about everything else including a few USA models

When the thermostat is open, if you squeeze the top hose and rev the engine you should feel the hose pulsing. If when the engine is cold you can feel the top hose pulsing, then it is likely, as Paul stated above, that the thermostat is stuck open. The thermostat not only opens when the engine is warm, it is also constantly opening and closing slightly during operation to maintain a constant system temperature. That constant sytem temperature maintains the perfect combustion conditions, if the thermostat is stuck open then combustion is not optimal and you will be using more fuel. cheers

I cannot remember where I read it, but it was a discussion between a couple of the major motor manufacturers and a motoring organisation (I will keep looking for it). The discussion was regarding 3 cylinder diesel engines and it was stated that by april 2018 there will be no more 3 cylinder diesel engines manufactured and VW will have a smallest engine size of 1600cc. That being the case, a wise man would, in 12 months time, by as many of the 3 cylinder models as possible, hold onto them for a short while and then sell them at a premium. Assuming that road tax rates do not increase for the 3 cylinder diesels in the meantime. I recently did a job on a 2012 Seat Ibiza 1.4 PDi. I have to say it is one of the fastest cars I have ever driven in my life (and believe me I have driven a few), god knows what the true emissions figures are for those VW engines but they must be astronomical.

Just a quick word of warning which you are propbably already aware of - Can Bus systems do not like to have a 12 volt probe shoved into them.

Hello Adam Welcome to the forum Re: your fog lights, I dont mean to sound rude, but have you switched them on correctly ? http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/7130-rear-fog-lights/ Its an easy mistake top make if they have never been use before

Steering wheel shake at ANY speed is not normal.

The reason Comma site is a better choice for your grade of motor oil than say, a user manual or owners handbook etc, is that Comma have regular updates by all manufacturers on the latest grades of oil recommended for any given vehicle. It is amazing how oil grades change over the years, even some times on the same car with the same engine which you have probably replenished the oil many times before. 9 times out of 10, your intuition of which oil to use will stand you in good stead, but manufacturers can change the spec of recommended oils at short notice. I know from my own experience that many times I have assumed that the oil was the same on similar models with slightly different engines, only to find that I was completely wrong. A good example is the VW range where the oil for the PD engines is totally different to the TD engines (and considerably more expensive). I just think it's best to be sure.

Hi Valleys If you follow this link to Coma oils, they list the latest manufacturers recommended specs for oil. simply put in your registration http://www.commaoil.com/products cheers

Hi Andyman Just a little confused about your problem and wondered if youi could clarify please. What is this "Bag" that you mention ? Can you list, one after the other, the exact faults the car is presenting to you. cheers

Ok Paul, sounds good. I still think Arak should be looking at his crank pulley. The problem they have, as you probably know, is the rubber insert, when cold, allows little or no movement of the pulley. When the rubber insert warms up then it starts to flex and allows itself to compensate for the "run out" of the pulley. I'm thinking the DMF failure and the crank pulley could be related to each other. It would probably be worth him videoing the crank pulley when it starts up and then again after it has warmed up to see the difference The only other thing I could think of would be an engine mounting, but then you would assume temperature would make little difference to a worn engine mounting, but it could I suppose.

Off subject a little bit Paul, just wondered if you had seen this quick animation. It may be worth posting somewhere as a sticky for those interesting in the construction and makeup of a DMF https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video;_ylt=A9mSs3CW4p1YUUEA3CVLBQx.;_ylu=X3oDMTEyZzNxZmFwBGNvbG8DaXIyBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjMzMDNfMQRzZWMDc2M-?p=Video+of+a+Citroen+Vibrating+Crankshaft+Pulley&fr=yfp-t-UK037#id=57&vid=db7a47440d227f842264ef79f9ee5099&action=view

The MOT laws are a strange beast, I do about 4 MOT's a month, well not me, my friend who has his own testing station. He tells me that sometimes he could scream when doing MOT's. They are not allowed to strip or take anuthing off the car, even, grease which has been larruped all over rusty brake pipes. He states that wheel trims are not to be removed, he may suspect that a wheel bolt is not fitted but, if he cannot see it then he cannot fail it. He also states that when you see these MOT testers banging away at the chassis with a hammer, they are in fact braking the law. The only tapping and poking which they are allowed to do is with the official MOT tester hammer which is very similar to a toffee hammer with a pointed handle for poking into rust.

My apologies, it looks like if you can hide the power supply cables to a non operational high level brake light, then it would pass the MOT. Pass and advise.

Welcome Michael

Unfortunately, the high level brake light is now an MOT failure if it is not working. It is also a failure to completely remove it and present it for MOT if original equipment included the High Level Brake light. Another one which catches people out is the rubber seal around the fuel filler cap which is also an mot failure if not present, as is the battery clamp.

The general concensus is that a dual mass flywheel could/should give a very very slight increase in acceleration but probably hardly discernable to the average person such as you or I. Right at this moment, your vehicle should feel no different to how it was before in relation to noticeable performance. If you are saying you can certainly tell the difference in performance then you should go back to the people who did the work and point that out to them.

copied... When you're engine is running, it isn't a smooth motion, especially a 4 cylinder diesel. This can be easily seen through the scope pattern of a crank sensor. As a cylinder fires, the waves will get closer together as the crank spins that bit faster and spread out again as it loses it's inertia. Coincedently, this is how an EMS spots a misfire, because the waves stay constant rather than contract and expand. So we can translate this to the crank pulley and flywheel. These objects speed up and slow down along with the crank, as they're bolted to it. Early diesels used rubber mounted crank pulleys. This stopped excessive belt oscilation (watch an auxilary belt tensioner in slow motion) and acted a bit on the crank. A crank pulley isn't very big or heavy though, so it's force doesn't have much impact on the engine. A flywheel however, is very heavy. It's also very wide, meaning it carrys and lot of rotation mass and torque. So when this starts oscilating with the crank, it creates a much larger resonation. Of course, you're thinking that flywheels are there to help an engine keep it's rotation and smoothness. In a nice smooth petrol engine, yes, but they don't have to deal with these massive oscilations. So a dual mass flywheel, which is basically 2 flywheels which are attached by springs, helps by using the spring travel to damped those oscilations to the drivetrain. As the engine side spins, that quick accerlation of the pistion is taken up by the springs, and transfered to the gearbox side. This means the gearbox side spins a lot more smoothly, helping to keep the drivetrain intact and stop unwanted vibrations and resonations.