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A Few Technical Issues - Cam Belt Snapped


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OK, so I got the cam belt covers off but I am now bewildered, I don't have the pistons at tdc because I wanted to fest something first, if I turn the can pulley and it feels pretty must b free, would that ad use that the valves are in tact?

 

The issue I have is that I have turned many bike engines by hand and when it feels like the valves pop and slot back into position with a quick rotary bounce on the pulley, this would indicate functional valves, correct?

 

Hope someone can help as my mechanic is hell bent on swapping engines!!

 

Thanks again!!

OK, I wrote that from my mobile so autocorrect kicked in and made me look ....

 

I wanted to "feel", not "fest".

"cam pulley" not "can pulley"

 

sorry for that!

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Hi with reference to the drip tray the part number is 824871 & is only available from Peugeot main dealers by special order I recently fitted one to my c8 after the cam belt was changed as the old belt had begun to fray,it took me about an hour to fit once i had worked out how to do it, £19.99 including vat so well worth the money.

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Thanks mate, much appreciated, well worth every penny I'd say as it would save on future cam belt bills!

To give you all an update, I have tried getting the car to start with a new cam belt in and it just juddered all the time, no spark!

I now have the engine out and decided to see if the head was OK but, yes, you guessed it, the injectors will not come out! they have even started threading my mechanics tool!!

I am in Swansea in South Wales if there is anyone that can help me I would really appreciate it as I am now completely stuck!

I would have bought new injectors but I can't get the head off, any suggestions? please? my mechanic has the engine sitting on a block, the car on the ramp and now is "buggered" if he takes on any work as he can't take the car down.

Again, many thanks to you all for the help so far, very much appreciated indeed!

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Hi John,

 

The cam shafts seem fine, it's the rocker arms that are really wobbly (read somewhere that it is normal for them to be somewhat loose but there are a few that are a lot tighter than others), in my opinion I think that it is what has broken, from what I can see with the engine out anyway.

 

IF I can get the injectors out, I will update!

Thanks again

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Have you considered getting one of the mobile companies that remove injectors with hydraulic pullers. Google "Injector removal" for your area. You might find some one locally.

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Hi John,

Thanks mate, I have found someone to do it but I have to take the whole engine to them, it's not an issue as I have a dolly and a van so ...

I do however have a query, after extensive pulling, surely the injectors would be useless?

I have read that they are deemed unusable due t o being stretched in the process, how do I know if a second hand injector has been stretched then? what should I be looking out for? apart from dimensions!

 

Thanks again for your help!

 

Edited by ZXCharlieR
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I have read that they are deemed unusable due t o being stretched in the process, how do I know if a second hand injector has been stretched then? what should I be looking out for? apart from dimensions!

Can't help you with that one. Probably Steve (Coastline) will know. He may be a long later. I'm fairly sure that any new injectors need to be coded to the ECU.

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Hi John,

The coding is not the problem, I have been reading up and because they are so hard to remove from the car they have a tendency to stretch, hence why second-hand injectors are useless if they have been removed by hydraulic method.

Hopefully Steve can shed some light on it for me later.

Thanks again!

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OK, this is what I have found:

The engine is an absolute B#@*$ to work on, the injectors are almost impossible to get out (this is still pending after days of trying) and the design is the biggest muck up I have ever seen! 

OK, rant over, I have seen that the valves are vertical and that the outlet valves seem to be fine so I now have to get the injectors out yes or yes to have a look at the inlet valves and see where the damage is if it IS in the head, if not, I will cry.

I have picked up the drip tray/rain water diversion thingy that clips onto the water reservoir and will be installed along with everything else when we put the engine back in.

 

My new (my god does it look like it's done 200k miles and not 70k as advertised) engine arrived today and all I could say was "Well, we have a head to go on my engine", I bought it from a company that call themselves "coventry_parts" on ebay, PM Car Parts Ltd of Coventry, CV6 4BT, just to advise anyone thinking of buying anything from them, I wouldn't, ever again, I mean, not a wiper blade.

I can assure yu that this engine has done a LOT more mileage than that of the advertisement on ebay (silly me buying a scrap engine off of ebay, I know, but I would not rely on that thing in my car!) so I decided that the head, in good condition, is the one we shall use for the transplant.

So, the plan as it stands:

Strip the head from the new engine

Strip the head from the old engine

Transplant Cams, Springs and rockers to the old engine, put it all back together, put the new drip tray rain water thingy on and hopefully we shall have a car up and running by the weekend!

 

Will keep you posted!

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There was an article in Car Mechanics on injector removal and apparently some soak them in Cillit Bang first before trying. Other than that it was all about getting an expert company in to do it and could cost hundreds for all the injectors to be removed.

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The whole idea was to keep the original engine in it, that way it stays authentic, and I know for sure how many miles the car (engine) has done!

I bought this second hand engine from a scrap yard in Birmingham and now regret it but it's going in whether I like it or not!

Injector removal is expensive but I am going to slowly rebuild the spare engine and sell it on to recoup some of my loses, I have had a quote of £150 via hydraulic method so.... that's the way I am going to go!

Thanks for the help again!

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