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  1. Sometime back I posted the way to prepare an update (v7.77), unfortunately no one posted their attempt at preparing any update, they relied on Scarymistake and Maitresox. I could have packaged the software such that the user clicks on the package and it installs itself (like the updates attached), but I wanted users to know how it is done so that those who are in the know may contribute.. I am well versed in hardware and software, but it took me a long time to decipher this (without manuals) and I don't expect that Joe Public would command it, but I am sure that many IT specialists can, and
    2 points
  2. I have recompiled V8.xx updates from 8.02 to 8.17 (see attached file DBox_8xx_updates.txt) with all original files included and only the 4 files that make it work with version 7 changed. They will report V8.xx NOT V7.xx, you can try them. The version.ini file has: [APPLICATION] Version=08.17 Version=07.81 However, after starting DiagBox and before starting Lexia, "Version=08.xx" needs to be commented, otherwise Lexia will deactivate DiagBox, in which case you need to restore APPDIAG.SYS to be working again, like this: [APPLICATION] ;Version=08.17 Version=07.81 Else, keep "Version=08.xx" com
    2 points
  3. Finally did this slightly arkward job myself recently after 3 years of putting up with a sagging tailgate. (Finally got to point where it would only stay half open even in hot weather!) Had no luck in end with getting a company to re-gas the struts as they said they would not fit their jig, so had to buy 2 new ones from Citroen dealer who sold them at a 'cheaper' price than the German manufacturer's UK agent. The job entails getting the plastic trim off the tailgate glass hinges first, so doing the rear window 'fix' was the first step, or just get to the solenoid to manually pop the glass open
    2 points
  4. Welcome to the forum. On the C5 Technical section there is a pinned Common Problems topic worth having a look at.
    1 point
  5. paul h. good luck with your MOT tomorrow , I took the car for a long run on the motorway & heated the engine just before the 2nd emissions test today but it failed again , to get it to pass the mechanic took the exhaust off to reseal it, he also cleaned the bottom oxygen sensor ,that did the trick , that's me for another year ,
    1 point
  6. You seem to have changed the obvious culprits. On our 2015 C4 we had a knocking which turned out to be a common fault with a batch of shock absorbers. The chrome shaft gained some play in it and knocked as it went over bumps. It had only done 25k miles but was out of warranty so I replaced both sides myself. To test for the play in situ I was told was not easy but involved trying to move the shaft. Once off the car the play was obvious. On a 2003 C3 I had knocking due to wear in a drop link. Later after a front coil spring had been replaced knocking started and it turned out the bear
    1 point
  7. If going under the C5 the body should be supported on axle stands since if a height sensor is caught the suspension can quickly drop to a very low level, faster than you can get out of the way. If the car is to be jacked up, the suspension should first be raised to maximum height to avoid possible suspension problems. Also on the C5 (X7) the suspension fluid LDS tank cap should be slackened first before jacking up to prevent the tank possibly splitting and then the cap tightened once the car has been lowered back on to the ground. Note that tyre fitters may not be aware of these re
    1 point
  8. Afternoon All! I'm away from home with no access to my software. Can anyone please tell me how I go about removing the cigarette lighter / centre console to get to a switched power source for a new radio. The Citroen Loom that my adapter goes into only has a permanent live. Many Thanks Jon
    1 point
  9. If you have the Maintenance and Guarantee Guide with the service stamps for the car it gives the maintenance needed. In the one for our C5 it gives the Berlingo petrol engines timing belt as 100k miles or 10 years if sooner.
    1 point
  10. On the C3 96°C was the start at low speed and high speed would start above this but it never got that high. The temperature was read using a code reader with live data. The thermostat extra sensor is probably another temperature sensor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-Genuine-Thermostat-and-Housing-with-Sensor-and-1336Z2-C1-C2-C3-/282308298972?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 Our 2003 C3 1.4 petrol had 2 temperature sensors - one was for the temperature gauge and the other (one wire) gave the high temperature warning at 118°C and put on the engine fan if it was not already on from the gauge s
    1 point
  11. Haynes do a workshop manual for the C2, as an example on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5635-Haynes-Citroen-C2-2003-2010-53-to-60-Service-Manual-/122270478392?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 There is also the Citroen service box which can be obtained through ebay. Does the radiator fan run when the air con is switched on - if not the air con will not work ? From the service box procedures, there should be a high temperature warning at 118°C, the thermostat should start to open at 89°C and be full open by 101°C. I could not find the fan settings but on our C3 it would start at 96°C and cut
    1 point
  12. Hi guys. Have purchased full chip Lexia kit, it has Lexia345 and Lexia348 as well as PP2000 and Diagbox. Is there a guide to what does what. Obviously PP2000 is for Peugeot but what is the difference between Lexia and Diagbox? Any help would be great. Regards Alan
    1 point
  13. Simple really, it is easy to get money out of the average man/woman in the street since you have no choice.
    1 point
  14. Add to this to check or replace the dpf pressure sensor since these can fail and only cost about £30. It may be wrongly trying to regen the dpf. You should find it if you follow the pipes from the dpf to the sensor.
    1 point
  15. If your car is working well but not under load, you may have the wrong instructions going to the ECU due to a sensor not giving appropriate readings or due to a valve not acting upon instructions. Check the plastic fixture of the three hoses on top of the Diesel filter for cracks and leakage and check the accelerator sensor and the two valves next to it. Also, if you have access to another MAF, try it, yours may be bad.
    1 point
  16. This is from the service box under Gearbox / Repair Procedures / General Specifications: ML6C reinforced manual gearbox and the pictures there show the cooling fins as in your photo - 2.1. DataThe ML6C Reinforced gearbox is a development of the ML6C gearbox :New clutch housingGearbox casing with fins for improved coolingNew reinforced 5-6 hubNew hydraulic concentric clutch stop which directly activates the clutch mechanism by action on the pedal without passing via a forkTransmission torque : 370 Nm (limit 350 N.m in 1st, 2nd and reverse gear) 8. LubricationCAUTION : The ML6C type Reinforce
    1 point
  17. 'If you need a top-up just pop in, sit down with some refreshments and relax - we’ll take care of it while you wait for just £9.99. We’ll even wash your car for free during your visit.' You will go when the low level message comes up so possibly needing about 15 litres having done about 10k miles and your car may be coming up to a year old or more. If this does include the adblue then it does not seem too bad unless they only do a top up and not a full refill. But then whilst having the relaxation, refreshments and waiting for the car wash, you are bound to look at the new cars and it c
    1 point
  18. Looking in the Haynes manual it gives the minimum oil pressure for oil at 80°C (110°C in the Citroen service box procedure after checking the oil level) as 1.3 bar at 1000 rpm and 3.5 bar at 4000 rpm. This would also depend on the oil being used. If you are measuring the flow with cold oil it will likely change as the oil heats up and becomes less viscous. Citroen's procedures show an oil filter cover being used with a pressure gauge tapping on it, so pressures measured here may be a bit different to ones at the pressure switch.
    1 point
  19. I seem to remember that one shouldn't touch Halogen lamps with bare fingers as the crystal (glass) deteriorates very quickly if contaminated.
    1 point
  20. From a search: P1162 may relate to the egr valve not working so it may need cleaning or replacing but first check any actuator hoses to it in case there is a split or damage or if electrically operated check the connector and wiring. This is likely to be the fault that brought up the anti pollution message (which just means there is a fault that could affect the exhaust emissions and does not necessarily refer to a dpf unless there was a fault with it) and the engine management light. P1351 may relate to the glow plugs but if your car is starting ok you can probably leave this for now. W
    1 point
  21. If you get a long handled screw driver and CAREFULLY put it on the injector and put your ear to it, it will act like a stethoscope and you'll hear them "ticking". Should be able to hear if one is making a different noise. Griff
    1 point
  22. you can hear it pulsing so it does point towards the injectors. Washing up liquid and water and squirt it round the bottom of the injectors and the common rail where the feed pipes attach and see if you get any bubble. If nothing then you could be looking at a faulty injector
    1 point
  23. I am not sure how much of the console you need to remove but the gear lever gaiter is supposed to unclip at its base and the surround it goes in should also unclip around its edges. You might also need to unclip/remove the glovebox in front of the gear lever. The handbrake gaiter can be unclipped/removed at its base. If all the centre console needs removing then the radio and air con controls need removing, remove 4 bolts at the front inside of the console (seen when the other parts have gone) and 2 bolts at the rear sides after removing blanking covers, unclip a stiffener behind the gear leve
    1 point
  24. problem resolved put lexia on my car downloaded the new software on the ecu and it fired up straight away happy days :-)
    1 point
  25. Hello & welcome to the forum. You are correct in assuming that you have a Mark 1 C5, however there is confusion over Mk1s; Mk2s and Mk3s. In 2004 Citroen never called the newer vehicle a Mark 2. Only the "facelift model". So it's better to refer to the car by its build date. Only on the 2.2 engines was the particle filter fitted from 2001. The 2ltr engines didn't get them until mid-2004. Engines with particle filters benefit from using a low ash oil.
    1 point
  26. Thankyou for all your posts, you are adding a lot to the knowledge on the forum. It is refreshing to have an experienced technician on the site since most of us are amateurs doing our best with our limited experience gained through diy servicing/repairs. I wish you a speedy recovery but then expect you will not have as much time for the forum.
    1 point
  27. Look at the VIN. If it contains the sequence RHY, it's a 90BHP. If the sequence is RHX, then it's a 110HP. The 110 engine is fitted with an intercooler, the 90 isn't. The power difference between the two is very noticeable. FSH is most important (IMHO) but not necessarily from a main dealer. I've recently sold a 2002 Xsara and a 2005 C5 both with a full service history, and yet they have rarely been near a garage since they were new.
    1 point
  28. I have the electronic hand brake and it will not engage if the car is moving it will just bong and flash up on the dash. I know because i tried it to see if it would do handbrake turns :)
    1 point
  29. Thank you for taking the time to reply, and for the welcome. Firstly, since yesterday the problem has not recurred. I've driven to work this morning, and since have driven about 120 motorway miles (6th gear virtually all the way) without issue. I haven't noticed any unusual noises from brakes, engine or gearbox since the problem went away. The car is a 2011 X7 model; I referred to it as a Mk II earlier, but perhaps I should have referred to it as a Mk III? There was no passenger in the car at the time the problem occurred. I can say it was definitely gear related to the extent that it was lim
    1 point
  30. welcome to the forum. If it is just the lock barrels you are replacing then there is nothing needed with the ecu. From the parts diagrams it looks as if the barrels are easy to replace once the door cards are removed. Only a C clip holds the front door ones and 2 bolts hold the boot one. There are 2 different types of lock barrels depending on your car RPO number, the change occuring at RPO 12820. The RPO is on the door pillar sticker which also has the tyre pressures. To get replacement locks you could try a breakers for used ones but they may be worn and you may not get 2 keys, or you co
    1 point
  31. I had the same issue and having replaced the fuses with no joy, here is what I have done: 1- Raised the car, removed the driver side wheel and wheel arch under cover. 2- Unscrewed the water tank (actually I was able to remove one clip, so I left it dangling but I had access to the pumps) point 1 and 2 are not necessary if you know where every thing is. 3- Disconnected the water hoses and tested for operation (you need assistant for this part) 4- Unplugged the faulty water pump 5- Disassembled (click open, no screwing, be careful) 6- Using a bicycle pump, blew the rubber toggle valve out (cou
    1 point
  32. Checks can be done on the dual mass flywheel to see if it needs replacing. So until the gearbox is removed, you will not know if a new one is needed. Bear in mind though, if it is worn and not replaced, the new clutch may not last long - a colleague had this on a VW 1.9 Polo, new clutch lasted for 5000 miles, then it was found the dual mass flywheel needed replacing.
    1 point
  33. Sad to say - it isn't until a model has been superseded and is a few years old that parts begin to be made by other companies. If you don't want to pay the "highwayman", your best bet will be to visit the breakers. Maybe your light fitting will be the same as 2008 onwards vehicles.
    1 point
  34. yes change the stepper motor. theres a link on here showing you how to
    1 point
  35. Welcome to the forum. Sorry I can not help but I have moved your post into a subforum since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and the post then becomes difficult to find.
    1 point
  36. The theory is that it helps during very cold weather because the gearbox oil is thick and cold and by dipping the clutch the shafts in the gearbox are no longer forced to turn.
    1 point
  37. Hi Paul, on reflection I think I may have it repaired myself and try to reclaim the cost from the dealer. I managed to find the source of the leak today and took a picture. It seems to show its coming from the union where the flow and return pipes attach to the rack, next to the steering column. It appears to have a figure 8 shaped bracket that clamps over the pipes to hold them into position. The fluid can be seen running off the pipe in the picture On closer inspection the figure 8 clamp looks and feels like it is broken at the bottom edge underneath the lower pipe I am able to move the
    1 point
  38. Citroen use 3 coloured bands on the springs to help identify them, can be a mix of green, blue, white, yellow, red. So if you clean up the old springs you should be able to use this to ensure you have the right one. Ideally you would use your vin on the Citroen parts site to get the correct part no. When one broke on our 2003 C3 the dealer replaced both so they were matched and just as well since it was not quite as before, seemed a little higher and handled a bit differently to start with. Provided you gave CES your car details they should have supplied the correct part and if not then I wo
    1 point
  39. for non starters the codes arnt much help at all. use your lexia and go to live data and what your looking for when cranking it over is rpm needle should be at 250 ish if not then check battery voltage/supply and starter fuel pressure should be 260ish when cranking. if not then start checling the fuel components cam and crank syncronisation If not then check sensors and wiring/fuses etc etc immobilisor/key/ecu syncronisation. if nor then start checking key fob/fuses/wiring Any of the above will stop the fuel flowing. When your in live data switch to graphs and youl be able to see if the
    1 point
  40. The high engine oil level on the engine dipstick needs to be sorted. A high oil level on a diesel can cause the engine to run away and not stop when switched off since the engine can run on the oil as a fuel. There have been a number of cases reported recently in the Car Mechanics magazine, some of which have resulted in engine damage if not stopped by such as stalling it on the clutch. Maybe if there was some dirt inside the fuel tank and if the additives have dislodged it, then it could have blocked the diesel filter at the engine end but I would expect if this was the case it would take s
    1 point
  41. You need to check under the bonnet,it sounds as if they have disconnected the MAP or MAF sensors to do the service and have not connected them back up again. Had this on a 406 and it made the car quite sluggish. The MAF is on the air intake, I don't know where the MAP is. MAF=Mass Air Flow MAP=Manifold absolute pressure. MAF tells the ECU how much air is going into the engine, and MAP tells the ECU how much turbo boost there is. Coastline will be along soon with the correct answer.
    1 point
  42. Well keep visiting here and let us know how you get on, I am sure one of the others can offer advice but I am generally the guy who makes the site look pretty, well not even that. I have no knowledge of cars but the rest of the team are your font of knowledge
    1 point
  43. A few years ago a similar thing happened with our Xsara. Not very time it was driven - only sometimes but there was no loss of coolant I swopped the sender unit in the end of the cylinder head and all was well there after.
    1 point
  44. Sounds as though internal pressure is forcing the cap off the bleed hole - it's only a weak plastic thread. Simple problems first!! Has the coolant been refilled recently? Has the system been bled properly?
    1 point
  45. Heallo Great Guys (Help from Canada). I am new hew here. And will appreciate if this forum can resolve my problem. A year ago, I bought a 2003 Citroen C5 for my brother in West Africa from Germany. This car has been giving a great problem. One main problem it drives normal for 1 km then the engine goes off. After 20 seconds, when he starts the car and raise it for 5 or 10 seconds, it is OK again. this used to happen 2 or 3 times a day, But the situation has become so worst that it could not even drive up to a Km again. He has done all the service but still the problem continues. Some of the
    1 point
  46. Colvon, welcome to the forum. There is a very popular Picasso forum which may be worth you joining. There is a link to it at the bottom of this forum front page.
    1 point
  47. Dave, when people ask me why I drive a crap french car, I always ask them 3 questions, 1stly which manufacturer won the F1 GP this year oh yes, Renault, 2ndly, who won the Le Mans GP series this year, oh yes it was Peugeot and 3rdly, who won the Rally World series this year again, oh that will be Citroen, no BMW, Audi, Merc, SAAB, Volvo, Ford, then ask them this, where does BMW, Ford, Volvo, Chrysler and about half a dozen other manufacturers get their diesel engines from, oh yes PSA.....usually shuts them up.....
    1 point
  48. cheers mate, most insurance is a rip off. Always said if you have to have insurance by law, then it should be run by the government, like road tax. Would put a stop to legalised scam system in place now :blink:
    1 point
  49. As you have both the ABS and ESP lights on then it must be something common to both systems, 1 of the 4 wheel sensors or just a loose wire or connector to 1 of the sensors maybe. If it only happens after the car has been used for a while that would suggest something that is changing with temperature, again a metal connector that expands and gets loose. If the Citroen garage diagnostic told them which sensor was reporting the fault then I would check all the wires to the sensor and the sensor reporting a problem. Ian Black 55 VTR+
    1 point
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