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Sometime back I posted the way to prepare an update (v7.77), unfortunately no one posted their attempt at preparing any update, they relied on Scarymistake and Maitresox. I could have packaged the software such that the user clicks on the package and it installs itself (like the updates attached), but I wanted users to know how it is done so that those who are in the know may contribute.. I am well versed in hardware and software, but it took me a long time to decipher this (without manuals) and I don't expect that Joe Public would command it, but I am sure that many IT specialists can, and I hope they will have a go at it, once they have the lead.. I do this for love NOT for living and I hope it will bring joy to somebody some where. Simple.

I have recompiled V8.xx updates from 8.02 to 8.17 (see attached file DBox_8xx_updates.txt) with all original files included and only the 4 files that make it work with version 7 changed. They will report V8.xx NOT V7.xx, you can try them. The version.ini file has: [APPLICATION] Version=08.17 Version=07.81 However, after starting DiagBox and before starting Lexia, "Version=08.xx" needs to be commented, otherwise Lexia will deactivate DiagBox, in which case you need to restore APPDIAG.SYS to be working again, like this: [APPLICATION] ;Version=08.17 Version=07.81 Else, keep "Version=08.xx" commented and DiagBox will report V7.xx but everything will be working fine... Please notice that DiagBox will NOT start with "Version=08.xx" only in version.ini (due to V7 profile). Now, how are updates performed.... Updates are downloaded and expanded (by DiaagBox) in "C:\AWRoot\dtwr\updt\Appli\" folder as RAR files, then moved to "C:\AWRoot\dtwr\updt\MAJDIST\". You can manually expand one or more update in the "MAJDIST" folder where it will have the AWRoot, APP and possibly the APPLIC folders. The presence of "majdist.tmp" tells DiagBox that an update is waiting to be installed and on running DiagBox it will start Internet Update. If you remove "majdist.tmp" or rename it, DiagBox will NOT perform the Internet update even if it is downloaded, expanded and ready.. The idea is to navigate through the various folders and edit or remove necessary/unnecessary files so that it works... Run an upgrade file, it will expand in the "C:\AWRoot\dtwr\updt\MAJDIST\" folder, change the name of the "majdist.tmp" file so that you don't do something silly accidentally, or compress the files and move them somewhere else for manipulation, then move them back when done. Compare different files to whats hapenning. The files that you are most likely to work with are in "AWRoot" and the main files that may damage the installation if it fails are APPDIAG.SYS, CFG.BIN in "AWRoot\bin\fi", CONFIG.SYS in "AWRoot\dtwr\cfg" and the 13 files starting with "fr.actia.AWF.xxxxxxxxx.dll" in the cache folder in "AWRoot\bin\fi\cache", every time you make a mistake they disappear.. So make sure you have working backup copies before you start (the configuration files are specific to the installation and the computer, they will NOT work on another installation). The rest are interchangeable.. Notice: This particular upgrade was performed using the DiagBox v8.01 with no files removed, I did my best to follow the same methodology when configuring the updates.. I would (and others as well) appreciate if someone who is having issues with DiagBox 7, could try (V8 + updates) and tell us if it made a difference in his case. Hints: - The easiest way to build your experimentation environment is to use Virtual Machines and take snapshots after every significant achievement, so that if you make a mistake, you start from the last snapshot NOT from the beginning. - To speed up recovery from failure, I have also added a small tool (Cache Contents Restorer in DBox_8xx_updates.txt) that will replenish "fr.actia.AWF.xxxxxxxxx.dll" after getting wiped out. You could create your own that will also restore (your) APPDIAG.SYS as well. My objective is to empower users so that we can have lively contribution based on our collective and varying skills. If you are good with software and have a Peugeot Citroen car that you may have to live with for sometime to come, then have a go at it, it is time you learnt how to do it, and you know the symphony by now "carry out this procedure at your own risk"... I guess we should see more members contributing.... Good luck.. Simple. DBox_8xx_updates.txt

Finally did this slightly arkward job myself recently after 3 years of putting up with a sagging tailgate. (Finally got to point where it would only stay half open even in hot weather!) Had no luck in end with getting a company to re-gas the struts as they said they would not fit their jig, so had to buy 2 new ones from Citroen dealer who sold them at a 'cheaper' price than the German manufacturer's UK agent. The job entails getting the plastic trim off the tailgate glass hinges first, so doing the rear window 'fix' was the first step, or just get to the solenoid to manually pop the glass open if you're not bothered about an opening rear window if yours has stopped working. Then I also got the large black plastic trim off that runs the whole width of the back end of the roof, but I'm not sure that was really necessary now. Easy to unclip with the usual careful force though. Gas struts for tailgate itself (ie not glass) are the outer ones, use small screwdriver to prise under metal clip to pull it fully off as you'll be binning the strut anyway, then use very big flatblade screwdriver to prise end of strut off ball, will pop off easily, and no danger as strut is fully open. Getting to other end means removing the two rear luggage net / dog guard fixings in the roof lining, then pull back the plastic trim at the bottom of the vertical piece of trim in the rear corners so can then pull off those vertical pieces of trim that hold up the roof lining at the rear corners. It all just pulls off with a bit of careful force. Then you can gently pull the roof lining down at the rear corners, as held up with adhesive pads which will can substitute with strong double sided sticky pads when re-assemble. You then can just about get your head in to see the end of the struts. (Reading glasses required for me at this point as its close range, and also mini head torch too as a bit dark.) I had to buy a pair of circlip pliers too here as I could not remove the circlip that secures the end of the struts without the right tool. Once they are off keep hold of them as the new stuts do not come with circlips. The struts are now free. Installation is reverse of removal, except it takes about one tenth of the time because you know what you're doing now. I have posted this because I've never found an account of how to do this job anywhere yet, but seen plenty of posts about sagging C5 tailgates.

hello sifaan. was just thinking about you the other day. You seem to pop up every 6 months or so. hope things are going well for you. anyway down to business its the stalk thats broke. dont try fixing it m8 as its a pain in the arse. just replace the comms unit

im not a big fan of the 1.6 but as rookie says if you look after them they will do the miles. dont go to discount autoparts for the oil as they will give u bog standard 5w30 oil which will kill your turbo. ALWAYS use a low saps oil from the dealers.. Yes u pay £10 a gallon more but its better than £700 for a turbo repair. and NEVER EVER just switch the engine straight of after running. Always wait 10 to 15 seconds for the turbo to spool down a bit before shutting it off

Theres no other way to test it. The garage that told you to use a 2nd hand dmf and not even change the clutch want shooting for it. false economy all the way

Prerequisites: 1- A capable notebook, Windows (32 bit only) XP, 7, 8, 10., DiagBox v7.01/02 ISO and updates 2- Ensure that all files and folders names do NOT include spaces or funny characters, example: “Folder_or_file_5†and not “Folder or file 5â€. 3- If possible, convert all your media to ISO format ensuring the media is laid at the root directory and NOT inside another folder, Example: if you mount the DVD ISO it should be “G:\installation_material.exe†and NOT “G:\ Diagbox\Lexia 3\installation_material.exe†(where G is the arbitrary DVD drive letter). 4- Hard Drive controller MUST be set to Legacy/IDE not AHCI in the BIOS (If installing on the computer). 5- Hard Disk partition type is MBR not GPT (Win 8+) 6- Always run DiagBox as Administrator and/or in Windows XP compatibility mode. Virtual Machine: ^ Install VirtualBox or VMplayer or Hyper-V and the extensions/tools ensuring the following: 1- Ensure that the Hard Disk controller is set to IDE not SCSI. 2- Create a preferably fixed hard drive 20-36GB preferably contiguous, Dynamic also works. (Win XP needs less resources than 10) 3- Connect the Windows ISO through the Settings -> Storage menu. 4- Install VirtualBox Guest Additions or VMWare Tools after installing Windows. Windows Installation: Install a clean (preferably) Windows XP Pro SP3 #, activate it and install the following tools: 1- Install VirtualBox Guest Additions or VMWare Tools after installing Windows if installing on Virtual Machine. 2- Microsoft .NET 3.5 SP1 Framework (needed for DiagBox 7.60+). 3- All necessary drivers (usually covered by the Guest Additions/VMWare Tools) 4- Setup a network adapter 5- Mozilla Firefox 6- Java 6 or 7 (V8.xx uses Java 6-67) 7- 7zip or winrar 8- Virtual Clonedrive (not needed for Virtual Machine) XS Evolution Connection: Connect the Lexia USB interface to the computer so that VirtualBox identifies it: • Click on VirtualBox Settings, USB, add a new USB filter and choose the code representing Lexia interface. VMWare recognises the hardware. • Leave the Lexia interface connected throughout the whole installation process, if Windows asks to look for drivers then just cancel for now. DiagBox Installation: • Disconnect the network cable/connection. • Create a blank file named version.txt and saved to the root directory i.e “C:\version.txt†(This step may not be necessary with newer DiagBox versions). • Mount the DiagBox 7.02 ISO and run the setup, go through the process. At some stage, "new hardware found" message will appear, do not choose to search automatically for drivers, you may cancel it or just manually select the driver that should now be available. • Start DiagBox and when prompted for activation, choose the "manual activation" option, fill-in information as per the provided instructions. DiagBox will start as v7.01. • Reboot the computer and restart DiagBox again, it will run the internet updates (even if not connected to the net) and will open as V7.02. Updates: Install the update package/s as follows: • Please note that after installing each update you will need to reboot the computer then run DiagBox again for the update to be fully installed. At some stage, you may get "New hardware found" wizard again, ignore if already installed. • After DiagnBox v7.02 install v7xx-757 -> 7.57-7.58 -> 7.58-7.62 -> 7.62-7.66 -> (7.66-7.72 if you wish to stay with ISO 639-1) or -> 7.66-7.74 -> 7.74-7.76 -> 7.76-7.82, etc… The latest version of DiagBox is now operational. Connect the XS Evolution interface USB before starting DiagBox *, then the OBDII connector to the OBD-II port on your car, turn the ignition on, and in DiagBox choose your car and work away. Simple. Notes: # Windows should be 32 bit and installed as English US system, languages can be added or changed after installation. - DiagBox v7.01-7.72 uses ISO 639-1 (EN), from V7.74 it uses a combination of 639-1 and 2 Chr$ Locale (en_GB). * DiagBox checks the XS Evolution current Firmware version at start and flashes the APPLI.COM file present in "C:\AWRoot\bin\Launcher" to the device if needed. ^ A Virtual Machine (VM) software is usually used on a computer running Windows 64bit or Linux, with Virtualization capable CPU, 4GB+ RAM and lots of Hard Disk space; the more the merrier. It allows the user to create a virtual computer hardware (choose number of CPUs, amount of RAM and Hard Disk space) in order to install a new operating system and applications on the VM without interfering with system that is running or real computer. (I5 + 4GB RAM + 20GB HD is OK for Win XP 32bit). It can be easily cloned or deleted.

Hi guys. Have purchased full chip Lexia kit, it has Lexia345 and Lexia348 as well as PP2000 and Diagbox. Is there a guide to what does what. Obviously PP2000 is for Peugeot but what is the difference between Lexia and Diagbox? Any help would be great. Regards Alan

Those units can be repaired by filing away the corrosion to flat and then fitting a Dowty washer. It is getting the correct size washer that is difficult.

Just to update as the final solution may be of interest to anybody with this problem and may save them a small fortune. The auto-electrician diagnosed that the pump was taking around 80amps hence why the fuse was blowing. The prospect of removing the pump was quite scary but in reality it wasn't too difficult. Once the pump was removed I took the back plate off the pump motor and I could immediately see the problem, around the electrical brushes and commutator there was a horrible black paste, it looked like a mixture of grease (from the bearing?) and carbon dust produced from the electrical brushes as they wear. I cleaned this up and ensured the commutator and brushes were connecting correctly (the brushes still were more than 50% of their original length at 100k miles) put a small dab of copper grease on the bearing. Reinstalled the pump and it is now working as it should be. The whole job took 3 hours and cost £32 in fluid from ebay (then add £60 to that for the auto-electrician). I would guess that many pump failures will be caused by the same thing, it is well worth taking the pump out and checking insider before going for an expensive new pump replacement.

If your car is working well but not under load, you may have the wrong instructions going to the ECU due to a sensor not giving appropriate readings or due to a valve not acting upon instructions. Check the plastic fixture of the three hoses on top of the Diesel filter for cracks and leakage and check the accelerator sensor and the two valves next to it. Also, if you have access to another MAF, try it, yours may be bad.

This is from the service box under Gearbox / Repair Procedures / General Specifications: ML6C reinforced manual gearbox and the pictures there show the cooling fins as in your photo - 2.1. DataThe ML6C Reinforced gearbox is a development of the ML6C gearbox :New clutch housingGearbox casing with fins for improved coolingNew reinforced 5-6 hubNew hydraulic concentric clutch stop which directly activates the clutch mechanism by action on the pedal without passing via a forkTransmission torque : 370 Nm (limit 350 N.m in 1st, 2nd and reverse gear) 8. LubricationCAUTION : The ML6C type Reinforced gearbox has a different oil capacity to that of the ML6C gearbox.Oil capacity (after draining) : 1,9 litre.Oil capacity (after an operation on the gearbox) : 2,2 litres.Check the oil level : No check of level (*).Lubricated for life.N.B. : (*) Make a visual check of the sealing at each engine draining operation.ESSENTIAL : It is essential to drain the gearbox and refill it with the exact quantity of oil in the event of an external leak and after a repair.

Thanks Paul, Please notice that the correct name of the "Version" file is "C:\AWRoot\bin\fi\version.ini" and NOT "C:\AWRoot\bin\fi\version.txt" as stated previously.

Welcome to the forum.

Maybe the mountings are a poor design or maybe the strut top gaiter is missing. They are about £26 each side if you do a search using part numbers, the left side is Citroen part no. 5038J7 and the right side 5038J8 but you should check this using your VIN. Replacement should not be too difficult but DIY could take some time. The book time to do both is under 3 hours so you should be able to get a lower quote at a different garage and it is not a specialised job that requires a Citroen dealer. The coil springs need to be compressed so you would need a pair of spring compressors but before doing this slacken the shock absorber top nut whilst it is still on the car. To get to the mounting top nuts the windscreen scuttle may need to be removed first.

A few weeks ago I was dismayed to find that someone had raked something alongside my car starting from the headlamp down to the rear light. It was obvious that it was vindictively done rather than accidental since the scratch dropped down to go below the mirrors and door handles. It looked an expensive job to put right, however I used some T-cut (Carplan) on it, then some metallic car polish, and after a lot of work, I was satisfied with the result.

If the paint has a laquer top layer then T cut is no use on it since it will just remove the laquer. If the scratch has gone through the colour layer to the primer then it will need repainting or you could use a touch up pen along the scratch but you are unlikely to get a good result although it will help to hide the scratch. You may be best to visit a body shop and see what is recommended.

According to service.citroen the part number for the turbo fitted to the 90bhp engine is 0375 C8 or the replacement number 0375 E3

From a search: P1162 may relate to the egr valve not working so it may need cleaning or replacing but first check any actuator hoses to it in case there is a split or damage or if electrically operated check the connector and wiring. This is likely to be the fault that brought up the anti pollution message (which just means there is a fault that could affect the exhaust emissions and does not necessarily refer to a dpf unless there was a fault with it) and the engine management light. P1351 may relate to the glow plugs but if your car is starting ok you can probably leave this for now. What makes you think your car does not have a dpf ? According to a sales brochure for 2010 all the C3 diesels have a dpf system.

Welcome to the forum. The only way to find out what is wrong is to use a code reader to read the fault code which will give a good indication of the fault. Any other way apart from an obvious bit not being connected or is damaged (look under the bonnet) is to replace lots of parts in the hope of finding the faulty one before too much money has been spent.

its a common fault on c5,s for the stepper motors that control the heater flaps to break. keep aircon switched off and see if when you turn both temperature controls that the heating goes from hot to cold. if it does then its your aaircon if it dosnt then start checking the heater motors

Somewhere in the handbook it will tell you about eco mode. Generally the time taken for it to come on depends on how well the battery is charged, so if it is only after a few seconds rather than up to about 15 to 30 minutes then I would be checking the battery voltage. At 7 years old if still the original battery, it could be due for replacing. Whilst on the forum, have a look at the C5 Technical section - there is a pinned topic on Common Problems worth looking at and give you a few other things to check.

Welcome to the forum. This is only a guess but possibly the battery is not fully charged. Use a meter to check its voltage, should be about 12.5 volts before the engine is run and about 14.4 volts with the engine running.

I am not sure how much of the console you need to remove but the gear lever gaiter is supposed to unclip at its base and the surround it goes in should also unclip around its edges. You might also need to unclip/remove the glovebox in front of the gear lever. The handbrake gaiter can be unclipped/removed at its base. If all the centre console needs removing then the radio and air con controls need removing, remove 4 bolts at the front inside of the console (seen when the other parts have gone) and 2 bolts at the rear sides after removing blanking covers, unclip a stiffener behind the gear lever, unfasten the diagnostic socket in the arm rest box, lift up the back end of the console and then pull it to the back of the car, disconnect the rear 12v socket connector.

problem resolved put lexia on my car downloaded the new software on the ecu and it fired up straight away happy days :-)

Hello & welcome to the forum. You are correct in assuming that you have a Mark 1 C5, however there is confusion over Mk1s; Mk2s and Mk3s. In 2004 Citroen never called the newer vehicle a Mark 2. Only the "facelift model". So it's better to refer to the car by its build date. Only on the 2.2 engines was the particle filter fitted from 2001. The 2ltr engines didn't get them until mid-2004. Engines with particle filters benefit from using a low ash oil.

Look at the VIN. If it contains the sequence RHY, it's a 90BHP. If the sequence is RHX, then it's a 110HP. The 110 engine is fitted with an intercooler, the 90 isn't. The power difference between the two is very noticeable. FSH is most important (IMHO) but not necessarily from a main dealer. I've recently sold a 2002 Xsara and a 2005 C5 both with a full service history, and yet they have rarely been near a garage since they were new.

Welcome to the forum. I would not worry about the 2 extra spheres underneath. On the 2001 to 2004 model 2.0 hdi there are 2 power options - 90 and 110 bhp but for such a heavy car you would want the 110 bhp. The 110 bhp has the best fuel economy so I do not understand why the 90 bhp was made. Ideally you should look at both cars if you have the choice. If you are going to use the car for towing a caravan the 2.2 hdi is heavier - estate kerb weight not inc 75 kg for driver - 90/110 bhp 2.0 hdi 1423 / 1438 kg - 2.2 hdi 136 bhp 1518 kg. The exclusive will have extra things such as rear parking sensors and esp which may make it a better car but being the 2.2 hdi it will use a bit more fuel 45 vs 50 mpg with higher car tax (CO2 - 90 /110 bhp 155/149 - 2.2 hdi 169 g/km giving £180 / 145 / 205) and it also has an exhaust particulate filter which needs servicing at about 70k miles costing a few £100 (dpf replacement/cleaning and eolys fluid topping up plus ecu reset). It is also possible the sx may not have air con. On the C5 Technical Section there is a pinned post of Common Problems to be aware of but you should ensure everything works and there are no leaks on the suspension.

I have the electronic hand brake and it will not engage if the car is moving it will just bong and flash up on the dash. I know because i tried it to see if it would do handbrake turns :)

Early C3 Petrol's didn't have temperature gauges.

With the vehicle stopped, I put the tube of hand cream between gear stick and electric hand brake lever and pulled back the gear stick; sure enough, the movement of the gearstick forced the end of the tube onto the edge of the hand brake lever and lifted it up (I took a picture but I can seem to upload it). Based on this, I think that this is likely the cause of what occurred. I wish I'd looked down to the gear lever when it happened, but when the car suddenly slowed down on me my first thought was that I'd accidentally selected the wrong gear, and after trying again my thoughts moved on to the engine or clutch being the issue. Thanks to everyone for their replies to my post.

welcome and please stay ur experience can help many people on here

welcome to the forum. If it is just the lock barrels you are replacing then there is nothing needed with the ecu. From the parts diagrams it looks as if the barrels are easy to replace once the door cards are removed. Only a C clip holds the front door ones and 2 bolts hold the boot one. There are 2 different types of lock barrels depending on your car RPO number, the change occuring at RPO 12820. The RPO is on the door pillar sticker which also has the tyre pressures. To get replacement locks you could try a breakers for used ones but they may be worn and you may not get 2 keys, or you could use a Citroen dealer who can also supply a matched set to use the same key as your existing key but this costs more. A boot and the front locks with different keys are about £35 and £50 or to use your existing keys about £45 and £85.

Almost any tyre depot will be able to remove the mangled wheel bolt. But you really need a replacement to put back in. I've recently changed all my locking wheel bolts using instead ordinary bolts. With alloy wheels becoming more common now, I don't think there's a problem with stealing alloy wheels like there once was. It might be one of these that you need. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M12-x-1-50-35mm-OEM-CITROEN-C1-ALUMINIUM-ALLOY-WHEEL-CAR-BOLT-FLAT-SEAT-WASHER-/130826080801?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item1e75d79221

Checks can be done on the dual mass flywheel to see if it needs replacing. So until the gearbox is removed, you will not know if a new one is needed. Bear in mind though, if it is worn and not replaced, the new clutch may not last long - a colleague had this on a VW 1.9 Polo, new clutch lasted for 5000 miles, then it was found the dual mass flywheel needed replacing.

Hi with reference to the drip tray the part number is 824871 & is only available from Peugeot main dealers by special order I recently fitted one to my c8 after the cam belt was changed as the old belt had begun to fray,it took me about an hour to fit once i had worked out how to do it, £19.99 including vat so well worth the money.

Just had a look at the pedals in our 2011 C4 hatchback and the clutch pedal is about 1 inch above the brake one, so I would think your pedal is normal for a Citroen.

Ive been busy got in and had a proper clean up and chucked some orings in still leaking. As id cleaned it all up i could see that appeared to be leaking from the steering input seal. Removed the large rubber cover in the foot well and could clearly see a nice leaky input seal. Boooooo 4 hours of crawling around dropping the subframe out it comes. image by Parkesiemtb, on Flickr A recon rack is on its way tomorrow so should hopefully only take a few hours to get it all back together.

my fix for this was to stop taking the wife out. this imediatley reduced the whining and moaning by about 70 per cent

Hi, I have a late 2008 C5 Exclusive. Recently, I went to turn on the seat massager. It came one for a few seconds but then went off again. Now it does that each time I turn it on. Do you think the switch is just gone or could it be the 'massage innerds'? Has anyone else had a similar problem?

couple of things check the plastic rocker cover where the cap screws in to make sure that its not broke. If thats ok then id be checking for back pressure on the engine

One of my pet hates was that when the site went down there was never a explanation. So here goes there were outages yesterday due to the owner banning countrys that were infesting the site with spam so hopefully its cured now. And always being the first to complain i have to be the first to complement. So well done to gteuk (site owner) for staying up till 3.00 am today to sort it out. Hopefully thats the last of the spam steve

From cars with RPO no. 9492, the control block under the steering wheel with the wiper and indicator stalks (comms 2000 unit) contains the receiver for the key fob remote. Cars before that RPO no. I do not know what is installed. If the key fob is not at fault, then it could be a problem with the comms unit but to check this would need a dealer diagnostic check. A new fob on our Picasso in 2005 was about £60, so 8 years later £100 may be about right and it would need to be initialised to the car using a dealer Lexia. The car RPO no. can be found in the car handbook/service book and on the car tyre pressure sticker on one of the front door pillars. There are 2 key fob synchronisation methods, depending on the car age. 4. Synchronisation of HF PLIP remote controls - early carsPerform the following operations :Put the HF key to be synchronised in position "ignition +"Press on the locking button (big button) on the HF keyWait between 5 and 10 secondsRelease the locking button on the HF keySwitch off the ignition with the HF keyWait 3 secondsThe ignition key HF PLIP is synchronised. 4. Synchronisation of HF PLIP remote controls - later cars (multiplexing assembly CAN VAN).N.B. : When replacing the batteries of an HF PLIP remote control, it is necessary to resynchronise the remote control.Perform the following operations :Put the HF key to be synchronised in position "ignition +"Within the next 10 seconds, press one of the HF key buttonsRelease the HF key buttonThe ignition key HF PLIP is synchronised.

You need to check under the bonnet,it sounds as if they have disconnected the MAP or MAF sensors to do the service and have not connected them back up again. Had this on a 406 and it made the car quite sluggish. The MAF is on the air intake, I don't know where the MAP is. MAF=Mass Air Flow MAP=Manifold absolute pressure. MAF tells the ECU how much air is going into the engine, and MAP tells the ECU how much turbo boost there is. Coastline will be along soon with the correct answer.

Just popped in for a cuppa

I would check the handbook to see which fuse it could be but it may be a problem with the blower speed control resistor module - located front left footwell, behind the right plastic panel, behind the blower to the right of the coolant pipes - from pictures in the French RTA manual for the C4. You may also need to remove the dash panel above the footwell to help access. Says to disconnect the battery, remove the panels, remove the module wiring connector and unbolt the module, rotate anti clockwise and remove the unit. Refitting, an arrow on the module points to the top. Also have a look on the c4owners.org forum.

For now, you still have to assume the temp is right due to possible damage if ignored. I would still check if any more air can be bled out, following Haynes, and that the level in the expansion tank is ok. Our C3 was difficult to get the air out, I did not have a header tank when refilling with anti freeze but jacked up the front right corner of the car so the cylinder head and cabin heater bleed screws were at a high point but lower than the water level in the expansion tank to help get the air out. Next suspect the thermostat, usually only a few £ for a new one and they do not last forever, although ones I have replaced before were opening early so the engine did not warm up. If you have the 90 or 110hp 2.0 hdi, the Citroen parts diagrams show a thermostat without the housing, opening at 83°C. Seems to be the mark 2 C5 that is part of the housing. Then it could be the sensor - it is worth checking the wires to it are ok and the connector is clean anyway. If you had a code reader that showed live data, you could see the indicated temps from the sensor and see if they were as expected. Need to beware though if buying one, on diesels not all readers may work until model year 2004. I would also check the water pump is not leaking - there were also on VW cars I think that had plastic impellers that fail, but I do not know about Citroen ones or whether the impeller can become loose. If the head gasket had failed from the first time, there could be coolant loss seen as steam in the exhaust but then the expansion tank level would fall - had this on a petrol car once. On a similar note, on our C3 on 2 occasions a year apart on the same journey (M62) that suddenly went to max temp, nothing obvious was found and later I replaced the anti freeze, thermostat and water pump as part of a timing belt change and it has not happened since. The old thermostat on testing opened at the right temp so may not have been at fault. When it did happen, first time I stopped, second time slowing down and putting the cabin heater on max brought the temp down on the gauge.

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cheers mate, most insurance is a rip off. Always said if you have to have insurance by law, then it should be run by the government, like road tax. Would put a stop to legalised scam system in place now :blink:

What's the definition of the bravest man in the world?? The man who comes home drunk, covered in lipstick and smelling of perfume, then slaps his wife on the backside and says: "You're next,fatty." --------------------------------------------------------- Man walks into the bedroom with a sheep under his arm while his wife is lying in bed reading. Man says: "This is the pig I have sex with when you've got a headache." Wife replies: "I think you'll find, that is a sheep." Man replies: "I think you'll find I was talking to the sheep." --------------------------------------------------------- A man walks into his bedroom and sees his wife packing a suitcase. He asks, "What are you doing?" She answers, "I'm moving to Sydney. I heard prostitutes there get paid $400 for doing what I do for you for free." Later that night, on her way out, the wife walks into the bedroom and sees her husband packing his suitcase. When she asks him where he's going, he replies, "I'm coming too I want to see how you live on $800 a year". --------------------------------------------------------- A woman was shopping at her local supermarket where she selected: * 2 litres of low fat milk * A carton of eggs * 2 litres of orange juice * A head of lettuce * Half a dozen tomatoes * A 500g jar of coffee * A 250g pack of bacon As she was unloading her items on the conveyor belt to check out, a drunk standing behind her watched as she placed the items in front of the cashier. While the cashier was ringing up her purchases, the drunk calmly stated, "You must be single." The woman was a bit startled by this proclamation, but she was intrigued by the derelict's intuition, since she was indeed single. She looked at her six items on the belt and saw nothing particularly unusual about her selections that could have tipped off the drunk to her marital status. Curiosity getting the better of her, she said, "Well, you know what, you're absolutely correct. But how on earth did you know that?" The drunk replied, "Because you're ugly!" Add some more jokes ya find about just need something to lighten this place up a wee bit i think.