paul.h

The flap between the outside air intake below the windscreen and the blower will be the recirculation flap - so it will either be in the position to let in outside air or the position so inside air is circulated, depending on the setting on the control panel (unless it is faulty). Maybe when you had the scuttle removed it was set to recirculation.

If you use live data on a code reader you could check the temperatures on the car to see if they are realistic - engine coolant and inlet air. If these ar enot right the fuel air mixture may not be right. Also the exhaust lambda sensors can be checked but I think these do not work until warmed up.

easydiagnostics has been mentioned on here as a supplier. They are a bit dearer than from ebay.

Looks as if you also need to swap the radio or get yours coded to the replacement ecu. A Lexia is the dealer diagnostic equipment but low cost Chinese copies are available from ebay that are installed on a lap top.

Your car looks good. Most people would cover the number plate before taking the photo so something to consider if you swap this photo for another.

Looks as if the fault codes will need reading before doing anything else.

"Check, adjust and grease all brakes". I am not sure what this means since to properly check the brakes needs them taking apart and cleaning and you would have a couple of hours or more labour on the invoice for this. Disc brakes are also self adjusting. The electronic handbrake can be calibrated but this needs diagnostic equipment to do this so probably needs a Citroen dealer or somebody with a Lexia. There is some information here on the C5 electric handbrake: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22636-c5-tourer-rear-pad-change-with-electric-handbrake/?hl=handbrake http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22759-c5-woes-brake-pad-warning/?hl=handbrake&do=findComment&comment=84303

Which engine does the car have, petrol/diesel/bhp and is it an auto or manual gearbox ? Why do you need to correct the mileage, has the ecu or speedo been changed for one with a higher mileage ? Are you going to be making changes to the car that require the ecu software to be modified, thinking here of dpf removal/egr blanking and anything else ? When following the battery disconnection/reconnection procedure I would make sure the gear lever is in neutral, just in case the ignition key is turned a bit far when reaching through the window. A few times on this forum people have mentioned using an auto electrician and finding the diagnostic equipment will not communicate and in one case even going to the bother of replacing the ecu/locks/etc with used ones without success. They usually have been recommended to try a Citroen dealer but have been reluctant to do this, probably thinking they can get the work done at lower cost. My first reply about spam posts was because we've had many spammers that start off very similar to your first post and they are just trying to use the site for free advertising and all sorts of other rubbish. Some have been banned straight away but since I was not sure in your case I thought asking about your car would let us know if you are genuine.

Welcome to the forum. Can you introduce yourself and tell us something about your car. Most people would not buy this and instead would get a low cost code reader or a Lexia for less than half this cost. If your post is meant as a spam link then it will be deleted.

Welcome to the forum. If the parking brake is not working adequately then I think it and the rest of the brakes need servicing. When were they last taken apart and cleaned ?

Limp mode is the means of getting home or to a garage where some preset value is used instead of the sensor. If a sensor has failed then without limp mode the car would probably not run. The overall aim of the sensors is to minimise pollution so if one fails the eml comes on and on some cars a warning message of anti pollution fault may come up.

Also what is an ecu kit ?

A bearing kit is likely to just mean the bearing, a circlip and a new hub nut, R pin and possibly the castellated locking nut. It would not include the hub and swivel arm since then the cost would be excessive. The Citroen part no for a bearing is 335016 including the circlip and the part no for a bearing kit is E268403 but these should be checked using your VIN. If you look on the eurocarparts site they show bearing kits which in their picture are a bearing, the circlip, the R pin and the hub nut for about £31. They also separately show the hub but it says this does not include the bearing. I have not included a link since I do not know your engine details and could select the wrong parts.

I suspect the radio is not being recognised by the ecu and you will need it programming in using a Lexia. Is the radio the original one supplied with the car or a replacement ? Have you sorted out the temperature problem on the car ?

Welcome to the forum. The tailgate seems to have the same part number. Register on the service.citroen site as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club and you can see the parts diagrams and see which parts are the same http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Has the insurance company written the car off, if so they will only value it at scrap value unless you have it checked over after it is repaired or is repaired by a bodyshop. As a minimum they will require a MOT test to show it is roadworthy but it would likely still be valued as scrap. Is there more damage than just the bumper and tailgate since I would have thought just these 2 things on their own would not write it off ? You could also consider negotiating with the insurance company to use used parts to get the repair cost down.

I can think of one company you may not be using for tyres and tracking. In the last year we've bought Michelin tyres for a C3 and a C4 and for one Kwik Fit were the lowest price and the other Halfords but we did a bit of searching on the internet to find this. These were a common tyre size which meant the costs were reasonable when compared to the last ones for the C5. It may be possible the front driver's side tyre is worn due to the wheel bearing. When the tracking is out I think both front tyres would be similarly worn on the inside or the outside edges.

Petrol or diesel and what bhp ? Knowing the details of your car helps us if you have any questions since sometimes people ask for info but do not initially provide any details of their cars.

Welcome to the forum. What year and engine is your car ? The C4 is a good car, we are now on our 3rd, all 1.6 hdi and have had no bother with any of them.

Our Citroen dealer charges £40 to change the brake fluid but wherever you go, make sure it is bled through all 4 brake calipers and the clutch slave cylinder and not just by sucking some out of the reservoir and putting fresh in. I would explain the reason for needing to change it and they should make sure it is done properly. If it was only topped up at a service they should at least as a minimum test the fluid in there but the Citroen maintenance and warranty guide states it should be changed every 2 years and this is normal practice. Whilst there, also mention the brakes getting hot/smelly and looking back at your bearing topic, coastline suggested the handbrake cables could be seized or possibly the pistons. So whilst it is on the ramps having the fluid done this could also be looked at and hopefully without charging.

Your brakes will have been well bedded in with your work travelling of maybe 300 miles so that can be forgotten about. For the wheel bearing, the caliper would just have been unbolted from the swivel hub so this should not have resulted in any air getting in. Whether the fitter got any grease on the disc could possibly be checked but it would just be on the one disc so might be indicated by the car pulling to one side when braking. I think the problem of the brakes smelling is not normal and may be due to overheating and likely the caliper pistons are seized or the handbrake not working working properly. Or there could be a problem with a hose having internal damage so the piston is not released when the pedal is lifted. Do you know when the brake fluid was last changed ? A neighbour had an Astra that had a known problem of rain getting in to the brake fluid reservoir and his brakes failed (pedal went to the floor) when trying to stop at a roundabout. As the amount of water increased the fluid boiling point reduced so it could boil.

You need a code reader to find out what is wrong and then fix the problem, this one from Gendan is a good price and includes some live data that will be useful https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html Without reading the code you can try replacing lots of parts before finally finding the fault and waste a lot of money. A temperature related fault can include a cam shaft sensor (not the crank shaft one since that would likely stop the engine), a spark plug fault, an ignition coil fault.

You need to go back to ATS for this looking at, they may have not done the job properly but the following are my thoughts. I would even suggest they pay for a Citroen garage to have a look. You could look on here at the topic on the front brakes to see how the job should be done for your information since the handbrake cable has to be replaced in the correct order http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/7552-replacing-front-brake-pads-c5-to-2008/. New brake pads/discs need bedding in and this can take a few days of normal use before normal braking resumes, possibly 100 miles or so. Up to then they will not be as effective so care has to be taken - ATS should have warned you about this. It appears though as if they have been overheating (possibly seized caliper pistons or handbrake not adjusted correctly) and maybe caused the brake fluid to boil. When was the fluid last changed, it should be every 2 years since it gradually absorbs water and lowers its boiling point ? If it does boil, the brakes will not work as instead of the pedal compressing liquid it has to compress steam which will be as if they are full of air. Other thoughts: - I would also wonder if there is gease on the pads, possibly if the discs were not fully degreased before fitting or by careless fitting since a bit of copper grease is normally applied just to the edge of the pad backing plates where they contact the caliper. - maybe air has got in the calipers when the pads were installed. - the caliper pistons may be a bit seized or the handbrake not correctly adjusted (which I remember was an original problem to be sorted). - if the pads and discs are not original Citroen parts and cheap copy ones have been used they may not work well - but the price you initially quoted was similar to Citroen parts. - brakes do not normally smell but a while ago whilst waiting for a bus at the bottom of the Honister pass (a long very steep hill in the Lake District) I noticed many vehicles had smelly brakes after coming down.

Welcome to the forum. If you are in the RAC/AA/etc they may have a code reader that can be used to delete the fault code and if the fault is no longer present the car may drive normally. If not, then at least in limp mode the car can be driven but not at its usual performance and you will need to allow for this so do not bother trying any overtaking or going in to outside lanes. To find the fault a code reader will be needed.

Welcome to the forum. I suspect you may end up at Citroen unless a copy of the original bsi program was taken before the repairs were started. However, see if there are any more replies.

I am guessing the LPG was an aftermarket conversion and not originally installed, if not some of the following may not be correct. If you have the car handbook it will give the official fuel economy figures for petrol. Our 2003 C3 1.4 petrol 75 bhp gave about 35 to 45 mpg depending on the type of driving. LPG will use a greater volume since it has a lower molecular weight than petrol, so each litre has less energy available. If the van has a trip meter on the dash, the button on the end of the wiper stalk can be pushed to go through the various pages and will tell you the fuel economy being achieved but this is probably only when using petrol. You could also ask the previous owner if you are in touch. This is from an AA topic: LPG costs a little more than half the price of petrol or diesel, but fuel economy will be about 20-25% lower. Overall running an LPG car costs approximately a third less than a petrol only car – but only once you've recovered the cost of the conversion. So this would suggest, whilst using petrol may be about 12 p/mile, using LPG will be about 8 p/mile. As regards the timing belt, on our C3 I used to remove the top cover each year to inspect it since it was only held by 2 bolts. When it is changed though, the tensioner, any pulleys and also the water pump should be replaced since these do not last forever and you should check with the previous owner if these were done - I would ask to see receipts for the parts as evidence. As an absolute minimum for now, I would inspect the belt to see if there is any obvious damage/perishing/teeth missing/ oil contamination to give you a bit of confidence to postpone (or not) replacing the belt for a bit. Haynes do a workshop manual for the Berlingo which will give all the details of replacing the timing belt. Sometimes these are available in libraries if you do not wish to buy a copy. The 1.4 petrol engines can suffer from oil leaks at the timing belt end of the cylinder head gasket as a seal in the oil way can perish, so something to have a look for.