paul.h

Thankyou for getting back to us and I hope the problem has now gone, especially after spending so much money and time. I have included this topic in the C5 Common Problems topic under 27 on flat spots and hesitation. Whilst your car is not common, the problem could apply to other cars and it will help share your experience.

More recent cars are using 5 digits, from 26/3/2004 using the calculator.

Once you have fit your towbar you need to inform the insurance company and they will note it as a modification. There should not be a charge for this but it stops them finding a way out of not paying a claim. This topic will help you with the wiring http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/3693-towbar-electrics/?hl=%2Btowbar+%2Bwiring

Have a look at this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23022-2006-c5-estate-tow-bar-wanted/ The price difference between an old towbar and a new one when you add the likely cost of all new bolts is not enough to make the possible risk of an old one failing worth the bother. Towbar bolts are all high tensile ones so you would need to source the right strength, could be 8.8 or higher.

The OP has not been back on the forum since posting so we do not know the outcome.

Welcome to the forum. Sinking this small amount is probably normal and our C5 and our previous one also did do it but it is/was all the car and not just one end. If left on a morning and it was a hot day, the suspension would be slightly higher later in the day so it could be related to temperature changes. If it was to sink more than this then there could be a leak in a strut. However, you could check the lds fluid level (with the car at the lowest height the lds fluid should just cover the tank strainer bottom) and also take the car up and down a few times using the suspension height button to bleed out any air (and exercise the height sensors) and have a look for any leaks.

Welcome to the forum. Is there something wrong with the car, most cars are started using the key in the ignition switch but if this is not working is the engine turning over on the starter motor ?

Welcome to the forum. Did the key work in the locks before this problem ? If not then possibly you have the wrong key or if the locks are seized, something like wd40 sprayed in the locks and then the key used/turned backwards and forwards in the lock may gradually free it and unlock the doors. Once you have access in the car the remote will need to be initialised due to the new battery and the procedure for this will be in the handbook but will be something like put the key in the ignition and immediately press the lock button. When the mirrors did not fold, if the engine had not been run just before, was the car in eco mode when the doors were locked since this may have stopped them folding ?

On the towbar, have a look in the 12N lighting socket and see if there is a spring loaded pin that would disconnect the foglights since this may be stuck in as if a trailer was connected. Or maybe the wiring connection is corroded. If so a bit of wd40 may free up the pin. This socket on Amazon has the foglight cutoff http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-A0012-Plastic-Including/dp/B003V56YRY Our 2007 C5 estate high level brake light was part full of water when I got it but it worked. I have read it is possible to just remove the red plastic lens and then seal it but when trying this it broke, hence a new one and I applied some black sealant in the gap around the lens and body so it no longer lets water in. They also have a design fault so it will glow faintly until the bsi shuts down. The official fix it to fit a resistor to its +/- connections but I have not bothered. The fault also existed on the new replacement light. I do not think this light is part of the MOT so any faults can be ignored. If the eolys tank is empty the exhaust dpf would block up unless it has been removed/drilled through. If the dpf is in place the exhaust tailpipe will be clean metal internally, if not then the dpf may not be present and there is little point in filling up the eolys tank - except for the MOT test the dpf system should be present and working although the test is only a visual one so a drilled through dpf may not result in a MOT failure.

If you replace the calipers the procedure to follow is important, look at the following: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/6901-c5-bleeding-brakes-and-replacing-front-brake-caliper/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/7552-replacing-front-brake-pads-c5-to-2008/

Welcome to the forum. It is never a good idea to wet an engine and its electrics as you have now found out. Wiping with a cloth/tissue is the best way to clean them. You could try using a hair dryer on all the electrics to help dry them and you may need to unplug all the electrical connectors to dry them, including the ones on the ecu and in the fuse box and to remove the ignition coil and dry the spark plugs but you would think the engine heat would dry these. It may be best to disconnect the battery before doing this. It is also possible you have damaged or disconnected something with the pressure washer. I would also make sure there is no water in the air filter. If you can not find anything then you may need to use a code reader with live data to see what is wrong. This will also allow the lambda sensors to be checked - the inlet one should constantly switch values around 1.0 but the outlet one should be steady unless the catalyst is faulty. The 1.4 petrol C3 is prone to injector failure due to water and this is copied from the C3 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic: 2. Petrol injector failure. Replaced free by our dealer under warranty. The engine had a very bad misfire and the engine management light came on. Caused by water dripping on the injector from the washer pipe connections and through the bonnet washer jet holes. Prevention is to put sealant under the washer jet and to change the plastic washer piping to flexible rubber to seal better and move any joints to the side of the bonnet. If the engine is only a bit juddery without the management light coming on, it may be worth replacing the spark plugs before condemning the injectors. Also from the same topic is a procedure for disconnecting/reconnecting the battery: 20. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Did they say how much water was put in, if only half a cup then possibly there is nothing wrong but I have needed to put a slight amount of water in to the AF tank of cars and it has not diluted the colour. Also for the car you looked at, if the rest of the coolant system had AF in, once the engine had been run it would have mixed in and the colour would still be the pale yellow. If the seller is taking short cuts with the AF, it would make you think that there may be other things that have not been maintained properly. Fortunately, there are many other cars for sale so I would not bother with this car.

Welcome to the forum. The antifreeze used in Citroens is a long life OAT type and when new is a pale yellow colour so unless it was clear without any colour then it is likely it is the original anti freeze. If so it should not need replacing for about 10 years or until any work is done that requires the AF to be drained. We had a 2003 1.4 sx C3 with the 75 bhp engine and the AF stayed the pale colour, also the engine oil did not go black between services. We replaced it with a 2010 1.4 petrol 95 bhp car and it is an improvement on the old model. The extra power of the engine makes it better at motorway speeds so is worth considering if your trips involve motorways/dual carriageways. Unless you need a small car, have a look at the C4 since that is a better car than the C3.

Welcome to the forum. Which engine does your car have ?

'Servicing is up to date.' How many miles ago was this for the oil/filter change and have you checked the level with the dipstcik, just in case the level sensor is faulty ?

If you do not have a handbook for the van you can read/save/print them from the service.citroen site http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ From the handbook for 1/4/2010 to 28/2/2011, on page 121, the front and rear wash pump fuse is listed for the engine fusebox, fuse 3, 10 amp. To access the fuses it gives : FUSES UNDER THE BONNET - After opening the bonnet, slide the screenwash support to make access easier. - Unclip and tilt the box to access the fuses. The rear lights/parking sensors not working are likely due to a problem with the reverse switch, possibly it has worn down. It should be located on top of the gearbox. You could remove it and then push and hold in its plunger to see if the lights/parking sensors then work, or remove the electrical connector and bridge its contacts. The gearbox probably does not have an oil level plug, you should check for any leaks. If you want to check the level, the oil should be drained out and the correct amount put back in through the top vent or the reverse switch opening.

You could try the front passenger air bag on/off switch to see if this does anything and also see if its connector is fastened on - just vaguely remember reading something about this a long time ago.

The tyres are listed the same for the saloon and estate (tourer).

From the parts diagrams under Mechanical, Engine, Emission control, Gas recycling circuit, the solenoid (electro valve) is shown as part 18 with Citroen part no. 1618S4 for cars to RPO 10746 and part no. 1618S5 from RPO 10746 for the 2.0 hdi 138 bhp engine without a DPF. The part no. should be checked using your VIN. There is a picture of one here to give you an idea of what to look for http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-TURBO-PRESSURE-SOLENOID-VALVE-CITROEN-PEUGEOT-2-0-HDI-1618S5-/111641824770 The Haynes manual or Citroen's Service box procedures do not give the location of this part but the parts diagrams suggest it may be on a bracket at the back of the engine or possibly on the bulkhead. There is a note in Citroen's procedures 'CAUTION : Prior to any replacement of a turbocharger wastegate valve, make sure of replacing the control electrovalve and its venting pipe (Refer to the incident (Info-Rapid) concerned).' - so possibly there have been problems with these parts.

Welcome to the forum. When was the engine oil and filter last changed and was the correct oil used, is the oil level correct when checked with the dip stick ? First thoughts are it could be the hydraulic tappets/valve clearances and the oil pressure is slow to build up.

Welcome to the forum. If the van is new I would have thought it would already have daylight running lamps since having them is now are a legal requirement, at least on new cars. If they are not mentioned in the handbook you should ask your Citroen dealer if they are on the van since it is possible it has them but they need activating using diagnostic equipment or possibly through the radio menu button. If you still need to fit aftermarket lights them you could consider running the wires under the van from the battery. On cars the wiring often runs along the sides of the sills and can be accessed by lifting the carpets at the sides.

Welcome to the forum. If the air bag light is on the air bags could be disabled until the problem is fixed or the light reset. This would prevent the air bags going off in a crash and might affect any insurance claims. You can check in the MOT testers manual on a .gov website to see if it would cause a MOT test failure. Possibilities can include a loose connector under one of the seats but if you do try these make sure the key is removed from the ignition switch for at least 10 minutes or so to remove any possibility of setting off an air bag and you may want to disconnect the battery. If the car is jacked up, in the handbook it says somewhere to first raise the suspension to max height. If this is not done there is the possibility of suspension problems so it would be of interest if you did this. If you are going under the car it should be supported on axle stands since catching one of the height sensors can cause the suspension to quickly drop to a low level. On some cars you can change the units °F/°C, mph/kmh, litres/gallons using the radio menu and also change the language.

I can not help with the problem but the car may still be under the 3 year Citroen warranty and if so you should get your Citroen dealer to have a look at the car.

The correct tyres for your car will be on the tyre sticker on one of the door pillars. A C5 sales brochure for 2012 lists the tyres as 215/60 R16 for the VTR on steel wheels, 225/55 R16 or 225/55 R17 for the VTR+ Nav on alloys, 225/55 R17 or 245/45 R18 or 245/40 R19 for the exclusive on alloys. It does not mention the speed or load ratings but these are listed in the parts diagrams as 215/60 R16 95V, 225/55 R17 97W, 245/45 R18 100W, 245/40 R19 98Y and there is also 225/60 R16 98V. Nowhere is the tyre width 255 or load 102 mentioned. If you have 255 tyres on then possibly you do not have the original standard wheels.

Welcome to the forum. Which engine does your car have ?