paul.h

Welcome to the forum. By radiator do you mean the air con condenser matrix at the front of the car ? If so, according to the Haynes C4 manual you first need to drain the anti freeze and remove the radiator. Then disconnect the refrigerant pipes on the condenser, recover the O-rings (need new ones), seal the open ends of the pipes so the air con dryer does not become saturated and need replacing, move the top of the condenser back and lift it out of the car. When refitting ensure its upper and lower mounting rubbers are correctly fitted, lubricate the sealing O-rings with compressor oil and refit the pipes. I would check the pipes are not corroded before you start in case they need replacing. The original anti freeze is a long life type but at possibly 10 years old it should be renewed and the old stuff flushed out. Your Citroen dealer will sell you the correct type of anti freeze but is likely to be an OAT type.

That price for an aftermarket rack is probably a reconditioned one and will likely require your old rack in exchange. Steering rack leaks seem to be an expensive common problem on the 2008 on C5.

At about 60k miles I would think your car has not done enough miles for a gearbox internal bearing to be worn out unless the oil level is low (according to the Haynes manual your gearbox should have a level/filling plug so it can be checked). I've replaced bearings on 2 high mileage Saabs at around 150k miles and the noise from them in top gear was a whine that increased when accelerating but reduced when the accelerator pedal was lifted. If you have a Citroen dealer nearby you may be better getting an opinion from them since they will be familiar with your car and what goes wrong.

When I have needed to replace wheel bearings they have sounded like an aeroplane, getting louder as speed is increased. It could be one of the bearing surfaces is pitted but this is not enough to give any apparent play when rocking the wheel. If the wheel is carefully rotated with the brake pads out some roughness may be detected but on a front wheel drive it is probably not easy to detect. So against the MOT test the bearing may appear to be ok. It would seem the front left bearing may be the one to check but it could also be a rear one (based on the noise going when turning left but this is not a guarantee of picking the correct side). The book time for replacing a front wheel bearing is 2.1 hours including removing/refitting the brake parts but this seems a bit quick but if the brake parts are already removed it is not much more time to do the bearing - just needs the hub and swivel removing and the bearing pushing out and a new one pushing in. I also avoid the fast fit places for anything other than tyres and for things I can not do myself would use my local Citroen dealer or a proper garage. Maybe you have a work colleague or relative with a drive where you could check your car.

I do not think Citroens are really known for their gearboxes and gear changes, for this you may need a Ford if the media/adverts are to be believed.

Here is an example of odd things on a 2008 C5 2.2 hdi being sorted by fitting a new battery http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22535-2008-22-hdi-gremlins/ and at 6 years old your battery will be due for replacement. If not the battery you need to get the fault codes read from when the engine management light and anti pollution message came on.

Welcome to the forum. Possibly you could make a template on paper by holding it against the exhaust joint and rubbing a pencil over it (like a brass rubbing). Then visit a car accessory shop or somewhere like Kwik Fit and get an exhaust gasket that matches. Obviously if the car will be used on public roads it will need the catalyst in place.

I think BP garages sell fuel at highish prices but the fuel level sensor is accessed by lifting the rear seat and the sensor is then accessed through a hole in the floor. The sensor fuel pipes and electrical connector are removed and the position of the sensor in relation to any location markings should be noted. A tool may be needed to undo the large locking ring and then the sensor can be lifted out and any fuel drips caught. Remove the large O ring seal. If it was a petrol car the battery would be disconnected first to avoid any sparks that could ignite the petrol vapours but diesel has a high flash point temperature so will not ignite easily.

If the cam belt has never been done, if easy to do, I would remove the top cover of the belt and see if it looks ok - I used to do this on our C3 until I eventually replaced the belt.

What year is your car ? For the 2002 to 2009 C3, the parts diagrams show one temp sensor on the thermostat housing. Also there is a second connector shown on the end of the cylinder head below the thermostat housing. For the 2009 on C3 which does not have a temp gauge, there is only one sensor shown and this is on the thermostat housing It could be the fan not running is a problem with the relay or controller on the fan itself. It is possibly not the temp sensor since you are getting what appear to be good readings on your code reader. You can see the parts diagrams as a free service on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Then use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. The housing temp sensor can be found under Mechanical, Engine, Cooling System, Outlet tank switch probe and the cylinder head sensor under Mechanical, Engine, Cylinder head, Cylinder head - cover..

Welcome to the forum. At 7 years your car is the same age as our 2004 and 2007 C5s when they needed a regas since the air con was not cooling much. Once refilled they were both ok.

With the suspension at the low setting and the engine off, the lds level should be between the first and second ridges from the bottom of the filler neck strainer. If you find the level is low then look for leaks on the suspension and steering rack (a common problem on the 2008 on C5 - see the C5 Technical section pinned Common Problems topic). The plastic lds tank is also known to split losing lds over the pump under it.

If you can get the scrap car VIN you could look it up on the Citroen car parts to see if it has the same part no. as your car. If not done already, you can register on the service.citroen site as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club to see the parts diagrams as a free service http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres and use the VIN (VIS) top left. The long part no. from the scrap dealer will be the manufacturers part no. and not the one used by Citroen.

Either you have found a cheap source for diesel or more likely the level sensor in the fuel tank needs replacing.

The Haynes manual shows the resistor for a car without air con and your blower photo looks like the one posted by Johndouglas so you must have air con and the resistor is fastened at the side of the blower. To get to it I think you will need to lower the blower since it is fastened at the side of the fan rotor and can be seen in John's photo at the left side of the rotor and looks white. From your other topic: - With air con the resistor pack control module that goes on the blower is Citroen part no. 644178, the blower 6441N4 - these look like the parts in John's photo. A picture of one on ebay but this seller says it is not for the Xsara despite the quoted part no. being the same as Citroen's http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Blower-Resistor-For-Peugeot-Citroen-Saxo-Xantia-644178-L128-/261264367949 You can also see the resistor and its small fixing bolts on this blower on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Citroen-Dispatch-Partner-Berlingo-Heater-Blower-Motor-Fan-6441N4/121676034604?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D32332%26meid%3D3098525140e34582905b3abb4674244c%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D141663292875

I am not sure which 1.4 engine you have to be able to see what parts your car has, but it could be the fan relay has failed or the temperature switch. You can see the parts diagrams as a free service on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car and the cooling system parts can be found under Mechanical, Cooling system and the fan and relays are then under Engine motor driven fan tube http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. Where do you manage to keep all those cars ?

Thanks John. It seems that the SEEM units depends on the tool used although the difference at the values needed for the Xsara are not much at 44 and 29 to 33. The tool mentioned in the Citroen procedure is 4122-T which appears to be the G2 105.5 from searches.

RTA - Review Technique Automobile http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rta-B737-Citro%C3%ABn-Depuis-2008/dp/2726873758/ref=sr_1_12?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1436020238&sr=1-12&keywords=citroen+c5 I would ignore the Amazon customer review, the RTA manuals are similar to Haynes but are in French. If you do a lot of work on your car you could get the Citroen service box dvds from ebay. This is the section on steering rack leaks from the pinned Common Problems topic in the C5 Technical section: 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 5 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/#entry81594

On line searches for seem unit conversions do not find anything and older links on forums to autodata just go to somewhere selling domain names, including one on the Caravan Talk forum. Some suggest though that 45 seem units is 240 Nm but the conversion is not linear.

Have a look here http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22117-c5-2008-power-steering-fluid/ I will pin this topic and edit the title since it has been asked a few times.

Checked Citroen's procedures for the Xsara with the 1.4 TU3JP engine and it does say to use a similar tool (Citroen part no. 4533TZ) for final checking of the belt tension - however, for it to be of any relevance you need a belt tension tool to check the readings which most people do not have. Without a tension indication tool usual recommendations are often for the belt to just be able to turn 90° at the mid point of its longest run between pulleys and to rotate the engine a number of times and check it again. You could also check the tension on the old belt before removing it. If you do not want to replace the tensioner (not really recommended though) you could slide the new belt on with the old in place before cutting it off. I changed the timing belt on our 1.4 C3 with the TU3JP 75 bhp engine and the valves were not touched and that was using the Haynes manual, but the tensioner has a built in indication of the correct tension. Every year I would remove the belt top cover (only 2 bolts) and check the belt for condition so I was happy to leave it another year before I finally replaced it. For timing pins I used a bolt to lock the cam pulley in place and a 6 mm threaded bar bent to avoid a web on the engine block to lock the flywheel in place. On the Xsara belts, the 104 toothed one is for engines since no. 3666766 and the 108 toothed belt is for engines up to no. 3666765. The engine no. will be on the V5C form and possibly in the maintenance and warranty book but if you look on the Citroen parts diagrams at the left side click Characteristics which then lists details of your car when built and may include the engine no. However, if the engine has been replaced this could be wrong.

If you did not get air in the pump it is probably a case of add lds fluid in the tank to the correct level (between the first and second ridges up from the bottom of the filler strainer), fit the tank cap and then take the car up and down on the suspension and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. Then lower the suspension to low and then check the lds level again. If air got in to the pump and the suspension does not rise then a pressure of 0.5 bar is supposed to be applied to the tank after filling it, but sometimes if just left overnight it will work ok the next day. The tank is normally under pressure so if the tank was just repaired it could split again, so you may want to get a new one for future use. A new one is £38 or £53 depending on the car VIN from citroencarparts.net

Which engine does your car have and what bhp ? A Citroen dealer will sell the correct parts for your car against the VIN. You can also see the parts diagrams as a free service if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club on the service.citroen site http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Use your VIN (VIS) top left in the diagrams to get your car and the timing belts is under Mechanical/Timing gear/Camshaft belt. What makes you think you need to compress the valve springs, there is nothing in Citroen's procedures to do this ?